Ok, so long time no post. My buddy's shop has been extremely and that means business is good. That also means my car takes a back seat because they don't accept belly lint for payment. In between that time of inactivity I have been getting additional carbon fiber supplies and building my garage out so that I can do a few projects here or at the shop.

The plan is to convert the Stillen brake coolers over to Carbon Kevlar and expand the inlet size. I suspect I will make a limited run to sell to a few people so that I can get some use out of the mould. After that, I'm going to mould my OEM hood and mould Fly 1's replicate mould of Varis's vents (mould inception). The reason why I'm doing the hood is because the entire bottom side is fiber glass and I can see day light through the vented area. Apparently Fly 1 uses ONE sheet of carbon fiber and reinforces with fiber glass. That's what 1,600 dollars gets you, faux CF looks. OE fenders and Finite Element fender vents are going to be combined into one mould and changed slightly. Personally, I'm not a fan on how they look like an after thought so I'm going to work with materials such as modeling clay to sculpt out a look closer to Porsche GT3 vents. No shortage of work/ideas here.

Lastly, I picked up a couple more items. Motion Raceworks Steam Vent kit and Holley twin throttle cable kit.

Enjoy!
https://zsmm5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zcm0dq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://dhbxoa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://8w9juw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://9q9juw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://9g9juw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://8q9eka.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://8w9eka.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://8g9eka.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://asklcw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://9w8hya.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://9apnmg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://9w9eka.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

You making carbon fiber backing plates. Make them thick. A 3" high heat hose doesn't flex easy. I had to bend my plates out for clearance when the steering wheel is turned all the way.

I believe the kids are now calling things similar to this build "Cray Cray". :)

This thing looks great. Keep up the design work. That stuff is always a fun read.

I'm glad a few people like these updates. If someone can learn from my build, even better!

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Scratch that idea about making carbon fiber backing plates. Bad idea because if you mount them like the oem's. They will fail. Carbon fiber doesn't like to be sandwiched between the bearing and knuckle. There is a lot of stress being sandwiched. You need to came up a different way to mount them.

That's a reason why I went with carbon kevlar.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

To make them thick enough for the stress. You would be spacing the bearings out too far. Then you will end up with alignment problems between the rotor and caliper. Pushing the rotor to the outside. The rotor would no longer be centered in the caliper.

What fenders are those?
They look slick!

I'll be sure to give it a good one over; but, the plate mounts completely flat and shouldn't be zero stress. Again, I'll look it over real good before anything happens. Thanks for the heads up.

I'm assuming you mean the fender vents. Those are Finite element.

Oh wow, with the way they are molded onto that car I assumed they were whole fenders.

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

OHHH, those are Porsche RS vents (green fender in picture). I'm going to try moulding the Finite Element vents into the fenders and attempt to make it closer to that.

Starting welding on your car is completely reasonable right? Looks like I have a little grinding to do. I know what I'm getting for Christmas! :rofl2:

All joking aside. I'm pretty happy with it, being my first time. Everything is going to get cleaned up and leveled out with a grinder by me first. Then seam filler is going back in so it wont look like worms all over the engine bay.

The MIG welder had too much amperage and the feed was too fast. Both were turned down and things went a bit smoother.

All the pictures are of the good and bad, you get to see them all.
https://z7rxxg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://0rrxxg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://0brxxg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://yrqm0w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ybqm0w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zlqm0w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://y7qm0w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zrqm0w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Practice on thinner sheet metal than what you will be welding on first before doing the actual welding to adjust your settings. Depending on your eyes. I found that somethings using a #8~#9 lens instead of a #10 or darker will help you see the seams better, but you may pay the price later with welding flash.

Ground down the wormy MIG welds, tapped off the seams and epoxy filled them smooth. If you're not a welder, better be a good grinder.

The taping shown below was an unbelievable PITA. Who am I kidding? The whole thing took me all day.

I couldn't get any in between shots of the epoxy because that stuff only has an 8min working time and my hands were covered in epoxy boogers.

https://0lrj0a.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://z7rj0a.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://0rrj0a.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://0brj0a.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://yrtpra.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ybtpra.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://yrtdma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ybtdma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zltdma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zbtdma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://0ltdma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://yrr4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ybr4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zlr4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://y7r4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zrr4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://zbr4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://0lr4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://z7r4pq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

If you hate grinding. You will become a good welder. :rofl2:

Did you use a sanding disc to smooth out your weld beads? What's quicker, is using a 4" x 1/8" grinding disc on your die grinder for roughing down. Then use the sanding disc for final.

I used the sanding disc in the picture (50grit). It chewed through the bulbus part of the weld pretty quick. I then changed up to a 36grit and I wish I led off with that! It also took everything down flat. Don't think I'd use a die grinder due to that.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Ahhhhh......you are using an angle head die grinder in the one pic. Die grinders come in a couple of different types. Straight, 45 degree, and 90 degree heads. Short shaft and long shaft. 12,000 rpms all the way to 80,000 rpms. ;)

36 grit is pretty course. 50 grit is finer. I normally start with a 36 grit, and finish with a 80 grit. If I want it really smooth. I then move to a 120 grit.

Rusty, as always, thanks for the input!

I can't imagine stitch welding the ENTIRE car. lol. FWIW, both of my buddies at the shop told me not to do it. But... I was already elbow deep doing the rust repair and removing the false firewall. For someone considering doing some stitch welding, I really hope the stumble onto this thread.

:tiphat:

Stitch welding a whole car. You better have it in a jig that you can turn. It's no fun when you have to twist yourself in knots trying to get into position to weld. :shakes head:

Sealed off a few oops grind through holes and scuffed the bay once again. Cleaned and bagged the car, took a minion selfy primed the car as far as one can would take me.

https://nrjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nhjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nbjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nxjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ohjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://orjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

https://obiduw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://oxiduw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ohiduw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://mxiyxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://mhiyxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nriyxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nhiyxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://obiyxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://oxiyxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nrln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://mhln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nbln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nhln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://orln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://obln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ohln0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://yrrj0a.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ybrj0a.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Your eyes look a bit glassy. You been whiffin' that stuff?

I thought half the can was for personal use?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Needs another coat on the driver's side. Passenger side has two coats, that's done for now. The engine will need to be pulled back out after all the components for the turbos are fabbed for a final scuff and spray. Changes, bumps and scuffs are to be expected in that phase. As it stands, looks like an engine and transmission will be going in soon!

The last picture shown is of the wires and there's a spot that's unpainted. Well, I recently learned that tin foil is my answer. Someone on my Facebook was kind enough to fill me in. Also, for some of the people looking to do this... not all primer is the same. I'm using epoxy based primer here. Food for thought (possible).

Happy New Years (eve)!

https://mhi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nri5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nbi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nxi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nhi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ori5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://obi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://oxi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ohi5pa.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://mxjorg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Very Detailed Work :tiphat:
I know mine is probably gonna take a while too :wtf2:

Thanks man. I really have to take my time doing all this. All this stuff is new to me so I have to research, learn and ask the right questions. There's really no sense to rush the build because I want something to be proud of. The journey doing all these components is just as important as the end result for me. I'm 100% sure there are WAY better ways doing everything, but live and learn right?

:iagree: 100%

I went to PRI (Performance Race Industry) in December and had a conversation with Clear View Filtration. My buddy and I put in an order for a billet anodized remote see-in oil filter. Having the ability to see what's happening with the oil will comfort me a bit after spending so much time and money on my engine. Some of you guys might want to consider this as well:

Now that is pretty slick. :tup:

How many microns is the filter element?

Are they in west michigan?

They have a lot of different options. I went with a 60 micron.

Filters {Nav Page} – Billet Connection dba ClearView Filtration

PRI is in Indianapolis, IN @ the convention center next to Lucas Oil Stadium.

I'm not sure where Clearview Filters is based out of.

Fixing a few rough areas. I simply wasn't happy with a couple things. What can I say, I'm picky 🤷. Should have it all cleaned up in short order.

If you scroll back earlier in the process, you will notice metal tabs that got hammered over. The tabs were welded, seam filled, and filled again with panel bond. It looked okay... but why not get it smoothed out while I'm in there already.

The short strand fiberglass ended up drying hard as a rock. When I started sanding with my 100grit soft block, I was able to knock everything down quickly. A hard sanding block with 36/60/100 is needed to get this done correctly. I'll also need to get some skim coat Bondo to fill in pin holes. Folks at NAPA pretty much know me by name now. Good thing the store is right around the corner from Auto Dynamix (shop where I'm doing the work at).

Lastly... The tags have me :bowrofl:

https://nbjvjq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://orjvjq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://objvjq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://oxjvjq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ohjvjq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://mxkelw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Finally! Ready to drop the engine in tomorrow. Finished off the shock tower corners. Built up and knocked down 5 times and laid a few more coats of primer. I tip my hat to body shop people, this stuff is some work.

Very happy I was able to capture the body lines after I removed false firewall, beat over metal, scab welded, seam filled and filled with Bondo (build and knock down). Not bad for my first go at welding/body work.

https://ap6kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://az6kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bj6kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bp6kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://a56kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://b56kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://cj6kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://q52kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bz6kug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ap4llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://q50llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://az4llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bp4llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bj4llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://a54llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://cj4llw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://nbjaua.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Great job. :tup:

:tup:

That's a lot of work.

Engine is in, not with out additional issues. The pan hit the steering rack, so my Moroso pan is out and a custom baffled pan is in. The mad scientist, @independenteng (IG Account), is going to put that together. So yeah, I'm kinda bummed... But this stuff happens when you're not dealing with the run of the mill Mustang swap.

A lot of you already follow me on IG (@gbrettin - by a lot I mean 2 or 3 people) but I tend to post all the pictures here, better or for worse photos. I think it's just as important to show the fails. The oil pan was specifically hitting the steering rack. In the middle of the rack there is an orifice which specifically caused a hang up. The pan must be extremely narrow to clear that.

After seeing the engine in the bay, I do have a sense of accomplishment and it's nice to have that flag planted. It's a mental check point I needed to have. I've been d1cking with that engine since August 2018.

Next steps in the process is to mate the transmission to the engine and build a transmission brace which is likely going to be all aluminum stock. After that, I *think* twin turbo fab is starting which is were things will get real interesting.

Due to anticipated space constraints from the turbo system the radiator will be re-located to the rear of the car. 417 Motorsports Water Manifold was ordered through LJMS (Lil John Motorsports) as well as a Davies Craig remote water pump. Then I can start thinking accessory drive.

And then... no and then. I'm cut off from thinking and then. :roflpuke2:

- Edit - My wife was unimpressed when I told her I needed to cut my hood. I'm also not sure she understands how violent the car is going to be either... nor do I wish to explain it.


https://b56raq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://aj7aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://az7aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bj7aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://a57aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bp7aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://cj7aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://b57aow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://aj5bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://q51bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://ap5bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bj5bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bp5bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://a55bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://cj5bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://bz5bga.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

:rock: :rock:

:iagree: