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-   -   Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump (http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-gallery/129437-mr-g-brettins-slow-motion-leg-hump.html)

gbrettin 12-08-2020 09:05 AM

IG@gbrettin
Prepped for surgery.

Sanded with 150 and applied 2 coats of epoxy primer.

Sprayed a light coat and then put down a heavy coat. Tossed the fenders in the corner for the night to dry(ish). It's 20 degrees here.

---------------------------------------------------

Panel bond was going to be to secure the vent to the fender. The panel bond would have been permanent (nearly impossible to remove) and would also prevent any rust situation on the chipped paint.

After a chat with the fella that made the Finite Element vents, I found out that the vents will only be made in a large batch. I read into that and figured the likely hood of the vents being reproduced were really low.

That information changed my mind on using panel bond. Instead, 3M tape. I keep flipping back and forth about using drilling the fenders and using button head bolts. I'm just not sure. If I do it, I will get some titanium hardware (eventually).

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gbrettin 12-08-2020 11:18 AM

Took the vents out of the garage and peeled the plastic. I'm going to let them cure the rest of the way inside.

The chips are gone, mission accomplished.

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gbrettin 12-09-2020 10:20 AM

Finally done. I attempted to solely use 3m tape but it would have popped off on a warm day. I was able to get it to lay mostly flat with some clamping force; of which, one clamp was not on the back side of the vent all the way. I now have some impromptu bead rolling in a spot I didn't really want.

With that said, I went out to the hardware store and picked up some button head screws and a new pack of drill bits. Turns out that the Ryobi bits SUCK. Their titanium coated bits dulled really fast and one broke free from the drill bit mount.... specifically the 1/4" bit I needed to finish the job (last three holes). I hogged out the hole with the size smaller to get the job done.

Cutting the holes had me on edge on this task because Finite Element isn't really making these vents anymore. It would have been a double whammy if this got botched. Big holes in fenders, 600 vents toasted and unable to get new ones (not that I would want to pay 600 right now).

I didn't have to do the vents right now.... but... I really wanted a change of pace. Besides, I'm still waiting on a handful of parts right now. specifically a rubber fitting that goes around my SPAL fan so that I can mount it with out the blades hitting the radiator.

Speaking of the radiator... I haven't heard back from CSF on any sort of sponsorship (not free parts, I said I would buy them). I guess that option can fade off into the sunset. They have their authentic time attack car (Evo) for advertising anyway. Like I said... I was apprehensive about it anyway.

Lastly, my pie cutting jig from LPS Fab came in. Now the cold and hot side can be wrapped up. I took a week off of work between Christmas and New Years to specifically knock that out. There all hands on deck at Auto Dynamix working on personal projects too, 3 or 4 other race cars. I'll get some video of that.

https://www.lpsfab.com/product/lps-tube-jaws

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Rusty 12-09-2020 10:54 AM

I had to bolt my vents on too.

Zezus 12-10-2020 08:45 AM

I'm surprised you couldn't get them to hold with the 3m tape. Thats all thats holding my front lip on o.O

gbrettin 12-10-2020 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zezus (Post 3975948)
I'm surprised you couldn't get them to hold with the 3m tape. Thats all thats holding my front lip on o.O

The mould of the vent wasn't exactly perfect. It was enough where it was constantly trying to pull away. I think thicker 3M tape would have been fine but I wanted it flush as possible.

gbrettin 12-10-2020 05:39 PM

My videos are one take (unlike the first videos) and limited editing now. None of this is scripted and I'm often thinking out loud the video is going, which is why I ramble so much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gPlLOD31QqE

gbrettin 12-14-2020 12:52 PM

After a month of waiting, the SPAL 1/2" gasket and swirl pot came in. I started off with the SPAL fan mount because of limited time. It's also nice to heave a simple quick win. I think I did that on Saturday. Kind of simple. the shroud needed to be disassembled to get the back side of the zip ties through. -Edit - You may wonder why I waited for the spacer... With out the rubber spacer the fan would hit the radiator. I also forgot to mention that the fan will blast air over the oil cooler and power steering cooler (of which I don't have... I was waiting to hear back from CSF.)

Yesterday (Sunday) I worked on cutting the swirl pot so that it could be mounted. Doing it a second time was fairly easy because I already know it will mount correctly. My 3" air grinder worked awesome on this piece. Well, it was awesome until a little chunk of disk broke free and hit my knuckle. It hurt... but lucky I've been up on all the safety equipment and wore gloves. Otherwise it would have been a bloody mess. The picture I took where I'm looking at the camera was almost directly after the hit. Note the double eye protection too!

Last on deck was the Accusump mount. Who would have known a mount could be such a time sink. The mount was measured, punched and drilled for mounts/dimple holes. After that, A hydraulic press was used to press the aluminum. Excess aluminum was then removed to allow for better airflow. Airflow will go around the Accusump fairly easy because it is round. If the mount was not cut up, air would hit the square edge. It would actually make downforce... but air evacuation in that area is more important.

Attaching the mount to the shroud was fairly easy using 1/4 rivets 1/2" long. The awesome part about the rivet was that it hooked right into the square stock that is inside of the L shaped aluminum. Remember my first time TIG welding aluminum? Yeah, that square stock. The accusump mount went into those two pieces of aluminum stock and it's attached to the left and right frame rail.

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Rusty 12-14-2020 01:16 PM

:tup:


You got to do something about your alignment. You got too much camber and toe on the left side. :shakes head:

gbrettin 12-14-2020 05:18 PM

It's basically the pictures but with a goofy guy making video.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G82yiGsW5Tw

cv129 12-14-2020 09:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3976685)
:tup:


You got to do something about your alignment. You got too much camber and toe on the left side. :shakes head:

:inoutroflpuke:

gbrettin 12-16-2020 01:48 PM

I went jousting today for lunch... lol

Picked up a 12' .065/16gauge 6061 3" tube. This will be my cold side after I cut a TON of pies.

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gbrettin 12-21-2020 08:37 AM

All the fittings were put into the Accusump, but not with out complication. I lost the schrader valve so I had to order a new one. I originally called Canton Racing to order a "new air pick" because I had lost it. Honest to god I had no idea what the valve was called. He basically told me to order it from Amazon. lol. A replacement shrader valve and a 45deg elbow for the pressure gauge was ordered.

(products arrive)

Saturday I hit the shop to complete final assembly of the Accsump but hit the aforementioned bumps. The 45deg elbow is for 1/2" and I needed 3/8. Easy enough fix, the hardware store is right down the road. Turns out they don't sell 45deg brass elbows so I had to settle on a straight coupler and a 90deg. That turned out to be a great option anyway because it kept it nice and tight.

Working with the T fitting... I really dislike red/blue AN fittings for some reason. Ordering a new T fitting because of the color only wasn't a good enough reason to purchase a new one; not to mention there would be delays getting the plumbing completed. Easiest fix I could think of was spray paint. Auto Dynamix always has a TON of mostly used spray cans in the back storage room. Black caliper paint was rounded up from the sea of cans. I figured if it could work on calipers, it would be fine for the T fitting.

A short -10 line was ran from the oil cooler to the Accusump. At this point, there are only two lines left for the oil run. That will need to be completed after the engine goes back in and I order 3 more fittings. for the return/sending lines.

Due to the location of the Accusump, I needed to have that completed prior to doing the cold side. GREAT SUCCESS. I'm so ready to get rocking on wrapping up the cold and hot side; so ready I picked up a bandsaw to get going on pie cuts because I'm sick of waiting for the gigantic bandsaw to be fixed (that's been a process I'm not going to get into). The old Harbor Freight bandsaw put in a TON of work. I thought that a new one would be a good enough option to get rolling. WRONG. What a piece of sh1t. Brand new and it can't cut a 9deg cut. Even worse, the 9deg jig from lpsfab will not fit. That whole debacle killed my Sunday. What a bummer. I just wanted to get some forward momentum. The shop owner, Dave, said he is going to get the big bandsaw going. There are a few options other than that to get pies done: 1. Have a shop cut the aluminum or 2. order a bunch of pies from Black Sheep Industries. I'd prefer to cut my own at this point.

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Rusty 12-21-2020 08:56 AM

You're a pro at making hoses. :rofl2:

HF strikes again. :shakes head:

gbrettin 12-21-2020 01:58 PM

This video captures the absolute joy of the bandsaw... 8.25 video. Like I said, I'm trying to keep them shorter now.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LcpnIHIWC_I

gbrettin 12-30-2020 06:54 AM

I found a short-term solution for making pies. An engineer buddy of mine said he uses a miter saw that has a carbide wood cutting blade to make pies. Sure enough, the miter box made life easy; however, it can not be used for stainless (I need to wrap up the hot side too).
The 12’ pipe was cut into 4 manageable straights so that I could easily deal with the pipe. I then changed the blade to 9deg, made a few test cuts, marked the size I wanted to cut all the pies and then cut 6’ of pies down.

All the pies needed to be deburred and leveled out after using the miter box. Let me say this… The cuts were pretty dang good so the clean up wasn’t bad. Cleaning up 6’ of pie was mind numbing. I just put my headphones in and listened to music.

Building out the pie path was relatively straight forward after visualizing the path. Making the pies follow that imaginary path is slightly different. Let me rewind a bit. If you notice lines on the tube, I used that to cut the pies. A cut would be made and then the tube would need to be flipped over 180deg. The line going down the pipe would let me know where to flip. Fast forward back to laying out the (imaginary) path. I would use the same lines left on the pies to know how far I was clocking the pies and to line up a smooth radius.

An “X” pipe is needed for my boost setup for one major reason (and I think I’ve said this before, but it will make more sense at this point). The Holley twin intake has no common plenum. Ports 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,5,7 are completely independent of each other which means I need a common point somewhere in the system to balance boost pressure. I cannot have half of my engine receiving extra boost because that makes for some bendy rods. With that said, the driver’s side boost tube was mocked up and then I mocked up the passenger side to mirror. The passenger side was done up 50% until the driver’s side could be tacked up. (This is the end of one night and I went home)

Next day I was at this shop waiting on my buddy to tack the boost tube. During in the wait, I decided to see if I can tack up the new boost tube. The first attempt… I didn’t have the settings correct at all. The TIG was set to DC (WRONG) and the gas was not on (MORE WRONG). Come on man… I was excited and nervous. After remembering my YouTube academics and channeling Rusty’s Zen, I was able to do some tacks on scrap. I called my buddy Dave in (owner of Auto Dynamix) to do the actual tacks. Let’s be honest, I don’t want to re do a section of the pie snake. Best let the pro do it. Dave also required me to hold the pie snake together so it was a 2 person job. Putting heat into the aluminum makes the adhesive on the tape let go.

One last thing.. If you guys actually read this far… The pictures are in order. The last few pictures shows a complete passenger side and then it is tore apart again. That is by design. I took a few pies and then rebuilt the path again. The driver’s side was removed because the boost tubes cross paths so that I can make an “X”. I’m hoping that the passenger side will give the illusion it is independent. I’ve wrote enough for one morning.

If you have any questions let me know. I’d be happy to make up answers and bull$hit on the fly. lol

Edit --

I apologized to Dave in advanced for the time investment to weld my cold side. It's like 34 linear feet of welding. We both agreed it will look amazing when finished though.

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Ghostvette 12-30-2020 08:12 AM

Wow....:bowdown:

gbrettin 01-01-2021 07:33 AM

Happy New Year everyone!

Worked on getting the merge to actually merge. Coping pretty much sucked. I had to take pies on and off 50 times. When it was off I would massage some of the metal out with an aluminum sanding disk. That was the passenger side large section. I coped one pie for 4 hours on New Years Eve. Well, it wasn't one pie. It was like 5. It gave me night terrors.

The first few pictures are of me making a transition between 3" to 2.5" for the turbo. An exhaust flare was used to make an aggressive transition. When I start posting the turbo to intercooler pictures it will make a whole lot more sense why that quick transition is needed.

My vision must be starting to make sense to people. I posted the intake on FB and it was generally well received. The biggest hang up was trying to explain the necessity of balancing out the boost in the X pipe vs running a straight shot from the intercooler. Trust me, I would have loved to do that. WAY less pies and WAY WAY less welding.

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madwi 01-01-2021 07:38 AM

Little baby Jesus in a hand basket floating down a river, you are glutton for punishment. :icon17:

Rusty 01-01-2021 07:51 AM

That's a can of worms. That will give you nightmares. The next question. Once all welded up. Will you be able to install it and remove it without to much hassle?

gbrettin 01-01-2021 08:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3979611)
That's a can of worms. That will give you nightmares. The next question. Once all welded up. Will you be able to install it and remove it without to much hassle?

That's why I have four high quality vbands. I should be able to drop it in.

gbrettin 01-01-2021 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by madwi (Post 3979609)
Little baby Jesus in a hand basket floating down a river, you are glutton for punishment. :icon17:

Guess what.... From the turbo to the IC has to be ALL pies. ERRRRR MAHHHHHH GERD.

I will say this.... After stepping away and then seeing it with a fresh set of eyes the next day. IT LOOKS AMAZING.

madwi 01-01-2021 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin (Post 3979618)
IT LOOKS AMAZING.

There is no question about that!

Hotrodz 01-01-2021 10:26 AM

Haha, talk about death from 10,000 pie cuts!!! :eek::inoutroflpuke:

gbrettin 01-01-2021 06:51 PM

50% of the the turbo to IC completed. 3" boost clamps were going to be used but the down turn and transition would have ran into the headlight. The 3" to 2.5 reducer I made yesterday will be welded directly to the IC. I need to purchase a 2.5" boost clamp for the turbo OR use a coupler.

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jchammond 01-02-2021 04:10 AM

2yrs. into the build today :icon14:
Haven’t started on mine yet & though will be using Nissan Engine/Transmission, I’m realistically gonna be pushing a year on mine :wtf2:
Loads of supporting mods to do & lots of oem parts to replace :eek:
Will be primarily working on weekends when I start, so could easily be 12-15months :ugh2:
Not putting a time limit on it; but I was hoping to have it up & running by my next birthday :rofl2:

gbrettin 01-02-2021 08:56 PM

2 LONG years into the build. lol Apparently engine builds are hard and expensive. Who knew?

But...

Silver lining today. The cold side has been completely mocked up today.

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Rusty 01-02-2021 09:02 PM

Getting closer. :tup:

gbrettin 01-02-2021 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3979690)
2yrs. into the build today :icon14:
Haven’t started on mine yet & though will be using Nissan Engine/Transmission, I’m realistically gonna be pushing a year on mine :wtf2:
Loads of supporting mods to do & lots of oem parts to replace :eek:
Will be primarily working on weekends when I start, so could easily be 12-15months :ugh2:
Not putting a time limit on it; but I was hoping to have it up & running by my next birthday :rofl2:

Actually... Technically I started in in Aug 2018.. :icon14: I didn't start the build thread here until January because I was unsure about sharing a swap/build because I've never done anything like it before. Fortunately, I'm glad I did. I'm certain someone will find it very helpful if they are considering a swap for their 370z.

Being on the downhill slope is such a welcomed feeling right now.

I'll definitely be watching your build. Anything major has its twists and turns.

jchammond 01-03-2021 04:36 AM

Definitely One of a kind :tup:
Looking forward to seeing what kinda power you throw down after breaking in :driving:
With the Bore/Stroke of your LS, should really spin up some R’s :iagree:

I almost went that route, but after seeing Spooler get his last build at an Extremely Reputable Shop & knowing the fitment of Fastintentions Twin Turbo kits ...... I started writing checks :wtf2:
And more checks :eek:
Still a few more chunks to go :icon14: :rolleyes:

gbrettin 01-03-2021 03:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jchammond (Post 3979812)
Definitely One of a kind :tup:
Looking forward to seeing what kinda power you throw down after breaking in :driving:
With the Bore/Stroke of your LS, should really spin up some R’s :iagree:

I almost went that route, but after seeing Spooler get his last build at an Extremely Reputable Shop & knowing the fitment of Fastintentions Twin Turbo kits ...... I started writing checks :wtf2:
And more checks :eek:
Still a few more chunks to go :icon14: :rolleyes:

Man, I REALLY like Spooler's car. Also, some of the availability of parts were not available when I started my build. Personally, I would have loved to run the CJM adapter plate for the BMW ZF transmission and then sleeve the OE block. Then build my own turbo system ... probably the same style setup.

But... I'm where I'm at now and wouldn't change for anything.

Speaking of spinning high R's ... I'm literally waiting on 2 parts from BTR. New rockers that are specifically made for the shaftmount (and probably work with OE just fine) and then push rods. I need to measure After I get the rockers in, because they are custom length.

I also need a billet sprag and converter for my transmission to spin above 7500rpm. I can put that in anytime though. 7500 will be fine for the first year.

I'm just going to concentrate on making this parts bin run. I'm done taking detours.

jchammond 01-04-2021 03:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin (Post 3979856)
Man, I REALLY like Spooler's car. Also, some of the availability of parts were not available when I started my build. Personally, I would have loved to run the CJM adapter plate for the BMW ZF transmission and then sleeve the OE block. Then build my own turbo system ... probably the same style setup.

But... I'm where I'm at now and wouldn't change for anything.

Speaking of spinning high R's ... I'm literally waiting on 2 parts from BTR. New rockers that are specifically made for the shaftmount (and probably work with OE just fine) and then push rods. I need to measure After I get the rockers in, because they are custom length.

I also need a billet sprag and converter for my transmission to spin above 7500rpm. I can put that in anytime though. 7500 will be fine for the first year.

I'm just going to concentrate on making this parts bin run. I'm done taking detours.

You know Jesel can hook you up on an Extremely Stable valvetrain.....just get out the check book :eek:

Yeah, the TH400 & 4L80’s can really spin up & hold some power + installing a transbrake :yum:

gbrettin 01-05-2021 09:39 AM

video of the cold side constructions. 21min long. I try keeping them 10-15min long but I simply couldn't keep this one short. It's a week worth of work but it looks like it's nearly the same day because I wear pretty much the same clothes when I work on my car. LOL

I feel that these videos give a lot of depth specific to the pictures you have been seeing and should be used with the text that I have wrote through out the process. I'm not so sure the videos would be that great on their own. Meaning... if someone were to happen to land on the video through a YT search, they would probably thumbs down it to the ground. Let's be honest. My video presence is pretty bad, but I'm pretty much the same guy in person. What do you guys think?

FYI - I had two copy right issues with music. I wanted to stab someone in the face because it takes 40min to package the video and then about 60min for YT to process the video. I did that three times. :ugh2:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FbclRBQSQM

Rusty 01-05-2021 10:00 AM

I've got nailed a bunch of times for copyright over music in the background that you could hardly hear. :shakes head: I even had one banded in German. :wtf:

gbrettin 01-05-2021 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3980159)
I've got nailed a bunch of times for copyright over music in the background that you could hardly hear. :shakes head: I even had one banded in German. :wtf:

Exactly... I was using remixed songs from sound cloud... I was like "COME ON MAN! SH!T!!!!!!" 6 hours of BS.

madwi 01-05-2021 02:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty (Post 3980159)
I've got nailed a bunch of times for copyright over music in the background that you could hardly hear. :shakes head: I even had one banded in German. :wtf:

I use vimeo now for vids with music playing in the back.

gbrettin 01-11-2021 03:28 PM

I attempted to drill 3" holes in my pipe and learned two things.

1. use a new sharp hole saw.
2. have a lot of weld, if not all welded where the hole will be drilled.

The first hole was semi decent. The second hole.... Well, that grabbed and ripped the pipe in half. Some of the pies got bent (in areas that didn't matter much). I pretty much rage quit when that happened and came back on my Birthday (Sunday) to work on the intake pipe a bit more.

I tried using a new hole saw and then bent the tube a bit more so I ditched that. I then opted for Mr. Death Wheel. Chunks were cut out pretty close to where I needed. An air grinder was used to clean up all the edges.

The intake is ready for final tacks and then full welds. The tube is not perfectly symmetrical but that's something I can live with due to the level of efforts to go back and rework a few spots.

https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none
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gbrettin 01-11-2021 05:47 PM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wuU-dJPZJg

JARblue 01-11-2021 06:14 PM

I think it is pretty fuckin good for building a one-off part learning as you go. I'm with you. Wouldn't bother me at all... at first. Hell of an effort sir! Who knows how you'll feel after some time has passed.

Maybe later on you can scan the finished product into 3D software and fix it to be symmetrical. Then you could 3D print a plastic mold with slightly smaller diameter to account for the thickness of your material to use for accuracy. Cause that would be less work :rolleyes: lol

gbrettin 01-13-2021 10:31 AM

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=He0tSMthgRk


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