Today bought the wrong oil filter and spilled a bunch oil doing a simple oil change. I can make a 30 minute job a two hour **** over with no effort at all!

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

I looked at a job. Figure it should take me about x amount of time, then add xxxx amount of time just because. :icon14:

Put the last valve spring on, torqued the head down, removed the VQ from the car and attempted to put the LS. It didn't drop right in, not shocked by that outcome. We know what the next step is at least.

https://nyflxq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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No project is complete without breaking out the sawzall

Started to pick items off the false firewall for removal. Further inspection revealed that there's a bit of surface rust. I am now committed to cleanup the entire engine bay. Rust... YUCK. Better to take care of it now than later. BTW, this car was driven ONE winter, I wish that I never done that. What ever. it is what it is. I'll clean it all up and respray it.

- Edit -

Looks like it was battery acid that lifted the paint.

https://n4c3ma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
https://oic3ma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

That's nasty. Better to get it now then when it gets too bad.

Make a solution of baking soda and water. Put it on the rust to neutralize the battery acid. Then wire brush and what ever else you want to do to the area.

It's actually surface and not bad it all. BUT it's still rust and it drives me nuts. I've got some paint buddies that can help me out. It will be done up right.

What are you having to hack off with the sawzall?

Notch the sub-frame behind the rack & pinion for oil pan clearance.

Removed most of the false firewall, hacked out the brake lines, coolant and AC lines. I went a little deep on some of the pinch welds because it was my first time grinding a pinch weld. I'll need to go back and fill some of the holes with some welds and grind flat.

The false firewall had to come out because the valve covers were not clearing near the brake and battery compartment. I'm also hoping that there is enough room to reach down the side of the engine to work with spark plugs. I'd prefer not to lift the engine out every time.

On a side note. I'm starting to question my sanity doing all this... I literally took a perfectly working car and made a roller.:icon14: I guess it's a good thing I'm crazy.

https://n4c3ma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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Get that thing up and running before Oct 19th meetup! :tup: :icon17: Keep at it, man. You'll be all smiles when your tearing it up.

You may want to add some reinforcing to the frame after fitting the motor in.

Bryan Settle just messaged me and told me to stitch weld the seams. I'll look into that as an option too.

I'll 100% be there in my Juke. lol :rofl2:

Before welding. You have to remove the sealant between the metal sheets. Otherwise your welds will have holes in the bead.

Not to be a stick in the mud but I've seam welded 2 cars, have my own rotisserie and everything. I'll never do a 3rd and the sum of money that would change my mind no one would be willing to pay.

The wire wheeling (the wires flying off the wheel and sticking in whatever part of the body they hit), the using a carpet knife to get what the wire wheel couldn't, the spot weld drilling.....then there is the welding itself, ospho, etch prime, epoxy prime, re-seal and paint.

Did I mention the wire wheeling? That seam sealant comes off like a hot cobweb :shakes head:

The fire wall seams you have to do aren't too bad though. Just be careful about the fire wall insulation behind them. If the seam is an overlap which most are, welding one side doesn't help much, what I do in those situations when I can't get to the both sides is use a spot weld bit, drill through one panel and fill that with weld. Basically additional spot welds since it's joining the panel in the middle of the over lap and not just on one side

The weld prep is a bitch. I welded part of one car. The only way I would do again is if it's a racecar and gutted. And someone prepped it. In a rotisserie so that you can do all the welding in the flat position.

Perhaps I can weld in bracing else where. Thanks for the info guys! Like I said a few times earlier, I'm learning. That input is very valuable!

Look into the bracing that bolts on under the fenders. I can't think the name of the company right now. Soul something.

Soul Function.


https://conceptzperformance.com/soul-function_m_81.php

Oh, if that's the case... I have a ladder brace that I plan on using. I should be all set.

I also got back out to the shop today. Both fenders were removed and engine bay vacuumed out.

https://coxw5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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Ahh! Found it Rusty and Krylon! 100% going to get this:
https://conceptzperformance.com/soul...1l_p_38315.php

For other that want to see how the fender brace installed:
https://buxw5w.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Cleaned, sanded and sealed the rust caused by a battery. I'll chop off the tabs when I get my hands back on the pinch weld grinder. Looks like I'm going to do some stitch welding on this too (not full hog); of which, I've been going back and forth on.

I actually sanded nearly all the rust out, I just didn't get another picture before I sealed it.

https://cexbrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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You cleaned that up WELL.

Sanded my arm off to knock down some runs in the rust inhibitor. Scuff and initial primed the passenger side.

https://buum0q.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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Well Frank... Your packaging passed cat inspection this time. Oh, we have our eyes on you sir.

https://dovcug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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https://duvcug.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none

Easiest install on my car so far. Took 5 min. Could use longer bolts. No worries, I'm gonna rip some welds on it.

Cleaned up the seams on the passenger side; and I know the time sunk into grinding the seams doesn't jump right out.... but, there were huge amounts of time between some of the photos. The last picture of the seams shows the seams done. Some spots needed to be reworked over and over.

Then I started removing the pinch welds on the driver's side, which fought me the whole time.

https://bpuyqw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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Do they actually work???? I need something for my car. I am twisting it perty good.

I haven't spoke to anyone that has reviewed it. I'm hoping it does.

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Cut the tabs on the shock towers, finished removing pinch welds and ALMOST done grinding out the seam filler. Then I'll be ready for stitch welding, full scuff and epoxy primer.


For the record, I wasn't expecting to do all this extra work. This is a random detour but the end result will be welcomed. And WOW! I've spent hours grinding out the seams. This stuff is no joke.

https://bxbjrq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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We warn you about the seam filler. :rofl2:

After you get the engine in and everything else. I would seriously look at making a stronger cross brace between the shock towers and back to the firewall.

Spoiler alert! I was thinking about making a titanium brace.

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Ti is $$$$ I got $30,000 of it in my azz and foot, not counting the labor to install it. :shakes head:

You and I have that in common. I have about 12 Ti bolts in both legs.

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Ok, FINALLY done grinding out the seams (where I need it) and scuffed. Onward to welding! ... Some other day... If you haven't noticed cleaning the seams has been a royal PITA (As pointed out by all you).

https://cnaaow.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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You going to mig weld the seams? If you do. Use ER70S-6 .025 wire with gas. I like to use Argon gas. It's a bit cleaner then CO2. Have you gas flow between 30 to 50. The .035 wire is a little too thick. It doesn't melt fast enough, and may push through the puddle. Causing a hole. DO NOT USE fluxcore wire. Because you WILL have a lot of work cleaning everything up. The slag can be a bitch to clean up.

I'm pretty sure we are going to TIG but I'm leaving that up to my buddy. I'd like to do some welding but I'm going to learn on something a little less visible.

Tig will take a lot longer. But be a nicer weld. You can still use ER70s-6 wire, .035. .045 wire will give you more filler if you need to fill in some gaps.

Struggled removing the brake booster, my shoulders are tad broad for working under the dash. I was going to paint around it but I couldn't clean up the area well.

Also, added a recreation picture of The Sistine Chapel: The Creation of Gregory. Why? This is my sh1t show, deal with it.
https://c3c1fw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none
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