Any updates, Greg?

Quite honestly, I didn't think many people read my thread which was why I stopped. A LOT of updates/changes happened to the car. I'll get around to making a long post tomorrow or... tomorrow tomorrow.

Now that im back in the loop I seem to have noticed something. Im new to social media because I think it paired with cell phones is the demise of the human race lol. Anyway people seem to have applied the same practices to forums. Scroll and "like" then move on. No actual interaction of any kind. Forums are kinda dead and not cool anymore.

All the crappy kids are on FB.

Definitely still interested in seeing this thing come to full life!

Well, after a bit of debating with my self... I'm going to jump in and post some of my build progress, again... version 2. It's hard for me to relive this mentally and I didn't care to post this initially, I wasn't out thrashing on the road and I had a pending court case (which I won). I had a major set back earlier in May where my OEM VLSD rear diff turned into a peg leg and I went off the road into a swamp... all the way in. (see picture). No one was hurt, and ultimately that is the only thing that matters to me.

Yeah, I'm lame and beat the sh1t out of myself. I took the term break in miles far too literal. If you feel the urge to joke about this to me, I probably wont find it funny. ... well... First thing I said to the cop on scene was "I can't park there, right?". Anyway, I think the context is important as to why I'm going through the build again with pictures, which is why I offered that information up. I'm taking it in stride and want to make my car better than before fixing issues that I didn't like. So much for having a clean titled Z.

Moving forward...

The last couple months has been jack stand life and poking around the car to see what I need to do. Immediate issues were addressed: draining the water from my car, rolling over the engine over with some oil in the cylinders, change the fuel and testing electrical (BCM worked perfectly). During that time insurance was pretty reasonable to deal with and I ended up buying my car back from them because they marked it as a total loss.

Since then I've been getting a list of parts/purchasing parts. The more I dug into the engine the more stuff I saw that I didn't like, mainly swamp water coming in through the valve breathers. I made the decision to pull the engine and transmission to get them fully serviced. The short block was taken to Baker Engineering for main studs, light cylinder hone and an inspection. The 4L80e was taken into Capizzi Automotive to have the clutch packs redone and a billet sprag put in. Heads were taken into Irwin Engines in Kalamazoo to have the valves inspected and loaded with BTR .650 titanium retainers (SK703). Remember when the timing was out 180deg? Well, that bent all my intake valves slightly, not surprised about this.

I'm trying to nail this build down exactly how I want it. Both the transmission and heads will be dialed in to spin 9k RPM. The twin intake was removed and sold to Bryan Settle (way better for his build) in favor of a Shearer Fab ULP air to water which has shorter runners to support higher RPM and to remove a TON of weight off the nose... which also cleans the clutter. A Motion Raceworks Billet merge will for simplified boost tubes to the plenum.

Wheels have been upgraded to Nismo 57cr Clubsport 19's with r888r on the front and the rears are getting the same but in 18's with MAC Fab beadlocks w/ Mickey Thompsons.

So yeah, lots going on. I'm looking to have the car back up and running Dec so that I can get the car to Sick Week 2024. I'm not entirely sure if that is going to happen but I'm certainly attempting to give it a go.

Current progress has me to the point where I need to replace the rear subframe with my new: Sikky Subframe, Winters Quick Change, DSS Axels, SPL components (most of the rear), IDS drag shocks.

The engine and transmission will return in November... I think. Shops around here are backed up.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...8M&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...PhY&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...iKI&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...VSU&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...9JM&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...vwU&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...EQ0&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...V8g&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...uIc&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ot8&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...5k&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...3xE&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Ug0&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...VE&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...BB4&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...VLg&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...gjU&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...QNI&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Oeo&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...8M&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...hW8&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...qTY&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...95M&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...faI&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...V2o&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...gw&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...jaw&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...mM&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...nuY&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...jcM&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ds&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...v0&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...F8&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...5mE&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...JZk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...1LY&width=1024

I forgot to mention I bought a new LOJ front sump oil pan because my custom pan was possible broken. Also, the pan hung up on the kmember when taking the engine out. The new pan doesn't have an oil return so I found an awesome timing cover that matches up the return to the scavenger pump perfect.

https://www.lojkits.com/collections/...x-swap-oil-pan

Daaaaaaaamn! This thing (and you) has no quit in it! Bring it on!

Sorry to hear but good to see you getting back at it.

Wow, that's some bad luck there. Sorry you had to go through that, but good to see you persevering and making some improvements to boot! Hats off to you bud!:tiphat:

That's some bad luck. But very nice to see you've got the will and the means to bring it all back up again, good luck ahead with the build.

If you were down here in Florida I would suggest naming your car “gator bait” based on that first pick in the pond. :happydance:

Or snappy turtle, maybe hungry hippo?

(I only jest bc :superghey: you, you dedicated bastard).

Don’t you know only white lotuses can drive under water.

Hah yeah. The car might have finally earned its nickname, Swamp Juice.

It took me 5-6hrs with the power washer spray out the packed in mud. Inside the car I used the garden hose and dawn dish soap. I've got to say, that swamp muck smell gives me PTSD now. Slightly distracting when working on the car. :icon14:

Thankfully it's coming together! I'm wrapping up a SANS certification but I will get back on the build 10/11. There's going to be a lag on updates for a bit.

Oh. My. Gawd.

I just realized I never mentioned what Sick Week 2024 was. Well, it's a drag and drive event. 5 days of drag racing which requires 100-200mi drives between the track WITH the car you entered in with. I'd really like to have a showing for the 370z crowd and put some numbers on the board. Unfortunately my car doesn't have a cage so I'll be locked in on the 10.0 class until I can get a 8.5 cert cage built.

https://www.sickthemagazine.com/sick-week

Sorry for the troubles. Glad you are willing to get back at it. I'm not sure how but I've never heard of sick week. Sounds like an absolute blast.

Swamp Juice! I love it. Whenever you go hit up a drag or strip event THE JUICE IS LOOSE BABY!

I’ve cleaned our JLUR after muddin down here before. Once, never again (on purpose). Fvck that sh1t. I’d rather take body damage on rocks. :icon17:

And we didn’t even have to clean interior that much since the door seals held. I can’t even imagine the amount of scrubbing etc to get that interior back up to par. :icon14:

I think that a lot of my interior will not go back into the car temporarily. The reason why is for the 8.5 cert cage. I'm likely going to purchase a new dash for my car because the old one was faded and had a small crack. I considered putting door cards in my car, but I keep flip flopping on that idea.

In other news... I have a set of AMS Carbon Fiber Seats pending sale. I've decided to sell my Nismo Juke RS seats due to weight and not having a fixed back (which might present an issue if I want to track). Pretty big bummer about the Nismo Juke RS seats because they are beautiful but they will be replaced with something that has better function.

Buying the seats from an OG here, Mr. Ortiz. Maybe he will view this thread some day.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024

Do the juke seats work as a plug and play to the Z's harness?

Iirc, for the 370z it was basically plug and play. I’m pretty sure a few folks have threads about it on here.

The wiring for the air bags, yes. They require seat rails. I was going to adapt my OEM seat sliders to the Juke base rails to make them work. A less painful option would be to buy the seat rails.

Since when have you ever opted for the less painful option. :icon17: :stirthepot:

Well guys. I've gone and done it now. Signed up for the Sick Week 2024. If I get the engine and transmission back in Nov, I should be in good shape.... We'll see. There' s a live stream during the week of the event if you guys want to see me race. Not many imports enter the event so It will be great representing Z cars.

https://www.sickthemagazine.com/sick-week

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024

You'll probably get featured in a 1320 video. They always record Sick Week.
I could definitely see Kyle wanting to interview you, feature you in a video and learn more about that badass ride.

Good luck man! :tup:

THat would be fun to get an interview, but I get all ADHD on camera. I'd probably have to direct them to this thread so they can completely understand the depth. :rofl2:

"Why do you call it Swamp Juice?"

......" WELL.... funny story... (shed a tear as I say that)"

I'm elated how the rear wheel looks with the tire mounted and the size is slightly larger than the 19 (perfect). I don't think I've seen anyone do this type of configuration on their 370z so it might be a first, specifically bead locking a limited edition wheel.

I'm crazy until I pull it off, but I typically pull it off.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024

Both of my tie rods were bent from damage. I purchased two tie rods but JARBlue happened to have an entire steering rack. Jar sold that off to me (thanks bud). Reason I went this route was because I want complete faith that the steering rack doesn't have internal damage. I'd hate to put the engine in and then pull the engine back out. Despite the rack being new I decided to put Parts Shop Max solid bushings in. I hear they help with steering feel and the steering rack was already out... Why not.

I'm putting together for the solid bushings. It will be short form because there's not a lot to it.

Next up - I needed to change the cv flange for my Winters Quick Change. The previous owner built the diff to the moon and it can handle 2,000+hp in its current form. The cv flange that needs to go in are down grades for the DSS axels. Instead of getting custom DSS axels I decided to go a known path that works. I don't think there's a 370z setup that could break the downgraded setup anyway.

A beefy circlip is holding the cv axel in. I broke my pliers and had to order a beefy set to attempt getting the circlip off. Fun buying tools that I'll use twice.

My heads were completed at the machine shop and the machinest put in some work!. Heads were cleaned, reseated, valves cut, new valve guides, decked, BTR latest high rpm springs for 9k RPM, and titanium retainers. I honestly thought it was going to be 300 worth of work but ended up being nearly double. Not a great deal but it was fair.

Last thought. As I look at the calendar the thought of actually making Sick Week doesn't seem to be realistic. I'll keep plugging away at the build. I've been down this path a few times so my expectations are not high. It is what it is.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ETk&width=1024

I feel your pain on tools for one job. I had to get quite a few things for the current work I am doing as well. Takes away from mod money! Kind of the measure twice cut once process though. Id rather have extra things I may or may not use, than risk down time waiting on the tool to arrive after the work started. Or even worse struggling with something I should not be trying to use do the work in the first place lol

I had a pretty good time making this one. Quality of the over all video came out great. I had a few people give me some positive feedback. Too bad the video is demonetized for the music. Not like I make any money off them anyway. Do me a solid and leave a thumbs up if you actually liked it. I'm going to try making more videos. For some reason my subscriber count doubled while I did no videos. I'm taking that as a sign to keep going.

Video was great! I am doing some this time around as well. You are natural at speaking with the camera. For me it is very awkward I am still not comfortable with it yet.

Well... I didn't know a steering sensor delete was an available option so I picked up one of them.
https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...Z33SSPSDF.html

I've been busy the last couple nights so I haven't completed the rear diff. BUT, the circlip beast pliers work. Even with that massive unit I could feel the resistance.

More to come.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Tk&height=1024

I was able to get the new stub axels in. The stub axels and cover were put into the freezer for 24hrs. Lindsey, my lucky wife, found both items in the freezer and was so happy she took pictures for me. Turns out I didn't need the cover froze, it needed heat. I figured everything would contract but I thought wrong. After that course correction the stub axel went in super easy. What was a pain was that the bearings and shims were falling out when I tried putting the stub axels in the grove. Also, from the factory someone dinged up the grooves so it was harder than necessary. I used a file to clean the grooves up.

The quick change was given 75w-90 AMS Oil "Severe Gear". Gear oil stinks so bad... which is awesome when I overflowed the fill with 3qts and it ran all over the rubber may on my lift cart. I read on the internet it takes 4 and that it takes 15min for the oil to flow into different sections. So... I figured do 3 and let it flow and then take it easy on the 4th. Nope. 3.2 is all it takes.

I think that the diff is going to generate a lot of heat so I'm going to look into a diff cooler. Winters says that excess oil will generate a lot of heat so getting the oil right will be a big deal.

Loading the gears into the back was ridiculously easy. I suppose that's why Quick Changes are so expensive. Take note of the bearings in the rear cover and near the sub axels. Those were upgraded options that allows for the diff to spin easier. The diff spins much easier than OEM due to this.

Lastly, one of my carbon seats came in. They are so much lighter than the Juke seats. I've got to say... the Juke seats are still top notch. Weight and the seats being fixed back are the only reasons I got rid of the Juke seats. I'm super happy that I purchased the carbon seats in the end. It carries my theme useful excess... lol.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...0MY&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...2M&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Do&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...4GA&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...GA&height=1024

I just replaced a bunch of photos due to a snafu... Not going into those specifics. But I had to re-add photos from page 65 on. If you don't see a lot of photos with the associated text, that's why.

These pictures are a depiction of my mental state trying to install the steering sensor plug. Turns out I was turning the sensor the WRONG way. I figured that out after buying a pack of 3mm wrenches (rounded the edge) and then carved out a large area using my Metabo.

I wanted to block off the sensor because my fbody ps pump has a mechanical bypass. Don't need the extra wiring and I want to try keeping everything tidy where I can, if possible. Parts Shop Max sensor plug was used:
https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...Z33SSPSDF.html

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Qo&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...6pA&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...q_Y&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...-Zo&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...dM&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...l9I&width=1024

Where’d you get what is the snap ring tool?

I need one!

SG

Picked up the Sikky rear subframe that has been in storage since early May. I paid for a few extras on the subframe which includes MA Motorsports anti squat brackets, Sikky Rear Subframe Bushings, Skid plate. I purchased DSS axels but I don't know if I went through Sikky for that. The Winters Quick Change is a 8500 series but I think it's listed as "Pro 1500 Spool Diff".

If you went through the options... on Sikky you can see that it gets pricy quick. I clearly didn't get this stuff over night. It was certainly a slow grind. I also have a box of SPL parts and Import Drag Solution rear coil over shocks that all need to get put on the subframe. I'll be quite honest... I'm not sure how all these parts go on exactly. Kind of a common theme with my build. Which is odd when people hit me up on IG or FB asking for build advice... I tend to point people asking to more knowledgeable people.

I had a conversation with Bullseye Turbo about getting different exhaust housings for my car, specifically vbands. WOW, the casts are expensive... like 500 per. Reason why I checked into those is because I'm considering moving my turbos inboard directly infront of the exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking that this move will reduce the exhaust charge tube and clean up the charge pipes. I'd likely want to face the turbo inducers toward the middle of the engine so that I can capture air. What about heat from the radiator? is likely going through your head... or it should be. The large CSF radiator will likely be removed and two small king radiators placed where the turbos were previously. Radiator placement is still up in the air to be honest.

One thing that made me laugh about my build is the realization that my car has more American made parts than a lot of domestic vehicles.

TMI update? I dunno.

On a side note... I'm very much considering buying a scanner and 3D printer to make some smaller bespoke parts for my build. I feel like that's a missing component to making components for my car.


https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Vo&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...tXM&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...6Gg&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...jM4&width=1024

Dug into the Sikky Subframe and Winters. No instructions came with it but it was fairly easy to figure out what was happening. The solid subframe slugs need to be loaded so I need to double check if there's a specific direction they need to face up or down.

Stopped by someone I know that has a 3d scanner and he did a quick scan of my cubby mount. It was pretty awesome. The cubby was dusted with baby powder mixture and then scanned. I also brought my Nismo v1 plastic and that was scanned too. I need a new under plastic and so does he, so it's a win win. We're talking about releasing the .STL file to the wild so people can print their own at some point and have a donation bucket out if people feel like donating.

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...m4I&width=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...xm8&width=1024

https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...rg&height=1024
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...856&height=337
https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...3nE&width=1024

The sub frame bushing go in from the bottom. Here's my thread on the install.

http://www.the370z.com/brakes-suspen...ml#post3825514

Perfect! Thanks man. I appreciate that a lot!