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Had a buddy swing by last night and help pour the mold. Before he got there I was able to get the side wall built out using plastic. I used about 5 sticks of hot glue in the joints and behind the plastic. Filler wax was used to smooth out the transitions between the mold and the plastic. Inspection of the mold was critical to ensure there was no chunks of debris hanging out and no mechanical locks were present. A bit more wax was needed at the top and bottom because we didn't like how the molding material would flow in. I used the air compressor to blow everything off at the end. Lastly, I waxed the mold one last time by hand and sprayed the mold with a heavy duty spray on release wax twice (link below). Just prior to pouring the molding material you could see a thick wax barrier. I suspect the heat of the mold takes it from a solid to more of a grease during the curing process. The spray on wax layed down perfect, it was great!
https://www.easycomposites.co.uk/rw4...-release-agent https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Popped the mold this morning. Doing a double post today.
BOOM The B side pulled fairly easy, due to the fact I built in leverage points on the side. The cubby plug cracked as I pulled the B side but that's alright because that's not the end goal here. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
I've been out of town for work last week but in-between the last post and now I've been removing the cubby from the mold and attempting to get my old pan on.
The pan has been quite the pain in the azz getting completed. I learned that there are three different flare options that GM has for their pick up tubes with three different o-rings. The o-ring I put on was from my Sikky pan because I had dropped the black o-ring. Well, here's where it gets interesting, the o-ring is red which indicates a slightly thicker o-ring and when I attempted to put the o-ring on I crushed/cut it going into the pump. Clearly I didn't notice because I had put the car back together and attempted to roll over the engine to check for oil pressure. Thank god I did that AND had a clearview filter because I was able to visually check for pressure. Of course, there was none so I had to brace the top of the engine again and drop the k-member again. The first time I had dropped the k-member I used a shitty transmission jack that loses pressure and bounces. Yeah, not really fun with 300lbs on it (or what ever it is). The second time I made the attempt was with the forklift. That was slightly easier but still a pain in the d!ck. So that was the fun of doing the k-member twice. I'm ready to focus on something a bit more up lifting... The billet block that adapts to my pan is MINT. The AN fittings are perfect and even better is the fact they can be changed if needed. The AN fittings on the pan previously were out of spec because getting the hose ends onto it was very difficult. In fact, I'm certain that was the root cause of why it was cross threaded. As it stands right now... I have one more nut to put on the pan. I was exhausted after a along day of work so I called it and left it so I need to put on the oil send/return lines and the last nut. If anyone is in the market for a Sikky pan, HMU. I'm selling it for 650 (before shipping) and I paid 830 with shipping. Here's some destruction on a perfectly good custom cubby mount that I paid Jason Gale for: https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none ROUND 2 https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none ONE RING TO RUIN THEM ALL https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Ok so I have one picture to show. Not really impressive until the full context of what happened previous to this post has been read. lol . My engine now has oil pressure! From what I can tell there are no leaks anywhere other than a possible bad ORB fitting on my Clearview Filter. I tightened down the fittings more to see if that worked but I'm also going to but 2 new ORB 12 to -10AN. No leaks on the turbo drains, pan (I dropped the gasket in kitty litter and had to clean it while rushing around the forklift), and most importantly the billet block on the pan! If the only thing I need is the 2 orb fittings on the filter... that's easy at this point.
Ok here's the exciting part.. To get the car oil pressure up I started it. WOW, it sounds like a pro mod! Other cars in the shop do not sound this spicy and they are built similar. I'm excited to get to the dyno now. Inquiring minds about the oil... I used Amsoil 15w-50 for this engine and used Lucas 30w break-in. The break-in oil was cycled for about 30min total in the engine. The 15-50 will go through the dyno session and what ever mileage I can put on it this year before I drain it, I'm guessing 100-200mi. https://www.amsoil.com/p/dominator-1...cing-oil-rd50/ https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
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I took off all the ... ... Well, some of the cables off the positive battery terminal and terminated them to a 600amp (over kill) busbar. Everything is routed through a Quick Car disconnect in case my car turns into the burnanator. It took about 3hrs at the shop total to do all that was shown. I'm slow AF in the garage. Takes a bit of time to find tools, crimp wires, heat the shrink wrap, hog out the terminal leads (a tad) and bolt down the busbar. I stand there and think about possibilities because I'm not trying to drill my car a whole bunch.
I still need to ad some protection to the passthrough hole in the car... Or maybe Ill route them next to the MS3 power and signal bundle (just thought of that). These are the items that really don't make it on to the build list, but take a chunk out of the budget. If there was a budget. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08JG2C2QQ https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Waiting on the shop, Auto Dynamix, to finish up welding my exhaust and wiring. On going waiting game that is getting old.
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I missed some updates, albeit it isn't much.
The car had some oil drain issues with oil dripping around the ORB fitting on the maven mount. Also, the turbo drain line is really difficult to get on and off. After some searching I found that the "Fragola 491930-BL Dart LS Next -10AN Hi-Flow Oil Supply" Fitting. The reason why there was a slight leak was because the drain line wouldn't allow for it to be completely tight, although I thought it was, it was actually hitting the turbo. Additionally, the fittings are not touching the turbo housing which means less heat transfer. Since I was was messing with fittings... I had a small oil seeping issue on the ORB top fitting of the clearview so I went ahead and replaced both of them. NO MORE LEAKS, PLEASE. After that the car was lightly cleaned up and pushed (no tune to drive) to the other side of the shop for wiring (which you know I'm waiting on). While in the pattern of waiting I decided to shift gears and order Varis side skirts. There was an option for carbon fiber side blade attachment but I really didn't see the point, (it's 600 more). I figure I can do a wet layup on the side blade for the look and then color match the turbo/brake with a pin stripe going down the edge. I've been thinking about these side skirts for years, infact... I believe I posted it in this thread way back. Lastly, I've been talking to Betty, Spooler, Rusty, Redondoaveb... and a few others outside of here about options for a rear diff. Looks like over the winter I will put in an OS Gilken. That will be used until I can afford the complete Winters Quick Change components. I'm stepping up the rear diff to the OSG due to safety concerns due to how the VLSD reacts under power.... aka the threat of death. One last note about the Clearview Filter... I was able to hit it with air to push all the oil back into the car. Pretty awesome having the option to see the oil and push the oil back for oil changes. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Sick AF! :rock:
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(Used the same text from FB)
Had a bit of free time today so I worked on my 370z cubby mount. One side of the mold is going to be used for a universal mold for boost gauges, small tablets, or what ever needs to be mounted. The other side is more specific to my car (don't worry about that). Anyway... I had to chip away carefully for a long while to get the plug out of the mold's death grip because I didn't sauce up the release wax good enough. 36 and 80 grit was used to knock down the face. After knocking the mold down there were some uncured mold bits that needed to be dug out and filled with extremely hot fiberglass. ----- Let me say this here: This mold is awesome now! It may look not special but it's a beautiful sight to me. I was able to get the plug out which was a huge concern of mine, specifically gouging the mold. After MANY MANY MANY hours it's getting close. A Discord group I'm part of tipped me off to some polishing wheels for my drill so I will be able to make this mold ultra slippery to release. That will also help the final look too. making a legit mold for CF is much harder than skinning parts. Last thought... that fiberglass was WAY hot. I had all but 3-4min to work with it. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Welding progress, by Dave at the shop, and a bit of sanding on the mold. Passenger side welds look beautiful on the exhaust and waste gate dumps.
The mold is being tricky again. The paint is hanging on for dear life so I had to contact the manufacture of the mold material to see if I could use acetone. Thank god they said yes... But I'd probably need to use it anyway! https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Still waiting on wiring... So I've worked on my mold. I really want it done considering the wiring will be done some year.
Desperation has set in on getting the paint chips out so the mold enjoyed an acetone bath. That cleaned and softened the paint but it wasn't exactly the silver bullet I was looking for so sanding is back on the menu! I'm using 120grit to remove and smooth transitions of paint. The center face of the mold has lots of soft spots for some reason. I used my counter sink drill bit to hit the soft spots, fiber glass fill, and then orbital sand back flat. During that process I've had pin holes, additional soft spots, fixed slight low spots in the corners. To deal with the pin holes I've switched to a lighter bondo. That appears to fill pin holes very well. I'm just going to need to leave a very thin layer of the bondo so that pin holes don't come back. I really need the exposed portions to look flawless...we'll see if that happens. You're going to notice a huge chunk cut from the back of the mold. That was completely necessary so that I could get in and hand sand. That also made life easier with the orbital sander. I think I'm going to cut the back side just the same. Laying in CF will be much easier this way too because I will be able to locate the edge of the face much easier. Lastly I was able to find mechanical lock areas and soften all of that up (by sanding) To be perfectly honest, I'm nervous about the sanding. I can't go too hard because it will take the part out of spec. Last thoughts... My wife is not a fan of me stinking up the garage. It's getting pretty damn cold out there too so I'm hoping I don't need to bondo work too much more. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
The mold really turned a corner for me. The face is clearly visible in the mold. Most everything has been sanded down with 320 grit which seems to be the turning spot to find imperfections.
All the soft spots are gone and pin holes filled. I need to cut the great wall located on the back side of the mold, I'm glad it's snowing now because it needs to be cut outside. On the face there were some low spots on the corners but they have been raised up with a bit of bondo, it wasn't terrible but it stuck out when sanding to a higher grit. My confidence level has gone up with this mold. I still have some left over trauma from attempting the hood mold. *shudders* Black Friday specials hit for Motion Raceworks so I went ahead and ordered the Twin Turbo CO2 kit. This will allow me to put dome pressure on the waste gates to make more boost with out having to change the springs in my waste gates. I already had the MAC valves ready on the car for the purchase so installation should be pretty easy. Shot out to Richard C for getting me a link to a mount that will work for mounting the CO2 (before I put a cage in my car) https://r1industriesoffroad.com/prod...inguiser-mount https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...harged-c02-kit https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
I checked on my car's wiring progress yesterday and it was more of a regression than anything. I let the shop owner of Auto Dynamix use the components of my 370z to diagnose the white 370z at the shop, which had REALLY bad wiring issues. I'm looking at it as paying it forward to the shop for helping me out with shop space; but, It's coming to a head where I need my car buttoned up now. I talked to them, they are on the same page now. I hope.
Now for my mold... I found a tiny soft spot on the face so I went after potential soft spots drilling additional holes and the soft spot. There would have been a spec on the carbon fiber face that would have bothered me. There's no better time than now to get it right. I laid down a real sloppy layer of bondo, it didn't go great because I was pretty salty about having to do it in the first place. Today at lunch... I went for redemption. The bottom side of the mold was also cut down to make life easier laying carbon fiber. knocked down the crap layer of bondo, air sanded the ends somewhat flat and laid another thing of bondo so I can sand some more after work. I am less salty today. :) https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Wrapped the mold up last night. I sanded up to 2000 grit and I could probably have kept polishing. It's good enough to pop a part. The feet look a little rough but I honestly don't care that much about them.
I was going to jump straight to carbon fiber but I honestly don't think that's the move. I have a bunch of chop strand fiber glass left over from my hood that I am going to use to test the mold out. That will show me any problem areas on the mold PRIOR to doing a resin infusion carbon fiber part. SO, here she is. Thoughts? https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
CO2 kit came in... so I did what any rational human would do, put a sticker on it and tossed it in the car. By "tossing it in the car" I mean exactly that. I set it in the trunk.
The exhaust needs O2 bungs, I guess the shop was waiting on me to put the exhaust on the car and mark where. Well, I found out yesterday so I put the exhaust on lol. It's not where the X is on the pipe... I marked it after the pictures were taken. It's more in the middle away from the turbo so wiring doesn't get burnt. I'm also sharing the pictures because I can't believe how awesome the exhaust came out! look at it... I SAID LOOK AT IT! Last picture the pipe slid down a little... I didn't have the vband on tight. Also, there's a trim ring that will go around the exhaust.... So it doesn't look like I used a wild beaver to cut the hole. Edit - There's also some weeping oil from the turbo. I'll probably send the turbos off to get looked at by Turbonetics and also put a new gasket on the Maven mount if it is weeping further. Not sure if there were oil remnants or there's some bullsh1t leaks. One thing is for sure... It's not the crimped lines and new oil extensions. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Auto Dynamix has been extraordinarily busy, so that's a great thing! Down side was that my car was getting put on the back burner. My buddy Dave was trying to keep cost down and working on wiring during slow times or after hours.
With that said, I couldn't keep my booger fingers off of my car. I've decided to push the wiring as far as I possible can go. If I hit a stopping point Dave/Nick (shop owners) said they would point me in the direction for completion. With that said, I jumped into the thick of it all. This weekend I located my wiper assembly... well... most of it ... and hooked it up. I had to do some hardware store runs for some bolts/nuts but that's nothing new. Accusump has been wired up. Power had to go all the way back to the car and get tied into the Leash Relay. A ground was ran to a previous ground spot which I pulled off the BCM wiring ground and put that in a more manageable spot. I added air to the back of the Accusump but I noticed the pressure gauge went down after a while. I'm going to hope that the valve is in an open position and the air went to the crank case. I guess we shall see. All the OE wiring has been taped off so it's manageable. Passenger headlight and side marker have been tucked. Loom will need to be put on down the road. I'm not happy where the brake lines are at right now so I'm going to need to break the lines to run them differently. To be clear, I didn't leave the lines up top. A younger mechanic in the shop bleed my brakes and let it sit up there. Not sure why. What ever. I'm not mad. Mold update... I went hard on an poly resin that has some fiberglass in it. I need to inject some more resin into the feet of the mold and put a few more layers of fiberglass on the back. After that is done I will need to drill the back side of the mold and hit it with air to release. Not terrible excited about that but atleast there will be one part that comes out of the mold (not the last either). New radio came in, but I need to have iDatalink so I can use the steering controls. The car will also have an anti theft device installed somewhere annoying... Not going to post where that install is going. lol - EDIT I'm going to swap the back hauling water lines to nice aluminum tube down the road. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Very small update but I'm posting it because it bugged me to no end. I re-did the ring terminals last night on my Leash Relay Board. The ring terminals were really close to hitting the other terminals and from the looks of it, if they did not go on perfectly they would hit. 5 dollars per box of #10 yellow and #10 blue terminals and I was in business. I removed the plastic off the terminals prior to crimping and then heat shrank the terminals. I tugged on all the terminals to make sure they weren't loose (none were). You may be thinking "why didn't you use the correct ring terminals?" Well, I didn't do the original terminals (neither did the shop owners at Auto Dynamix who normally do everything). SO, I'll leave it at that.
Another point I want to make is that progress can come in different forms on your project. Some days you make huge strides... Other days, you change ring terminals. Point being is that there is something done and that sure beats nothing. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Well, I committed to getting the Winters Quick Change. It has been at the shop for a couple years and I really needed to put up or shut-up. I kept thinking about my diff being welded or changing to a quality OE diff. Neither of those were the right option for my build. Getting the Quick Change is a step in the right direction but I still need a new subframe and axels. I'm not changing anything until my car is up and running with some test miles. This just plots the course for the future when I turn up the power. The quick change has all sorts of upgrades considering it was going to get abused by a sand rail buggy (original intention for it). The ring gear is 10" and there's a list of other items that are shown in the picture of upgrades. The Quick Change doesn't seem to be heavier than the IE either. I guess I can weigh both of them later if anyone is interested.
Wiring progress update: I took a few steps back on the passenger side and re-did some of the work. Electrical tape was wrapped around the wiring for the headlight and turn signal wiring. The electrical lead for the Accusump was routed through a frame hole and that had me freaked out about fire potential so that was wrapped in electrical tape and then put in loom, along with the headlight leads. The ground and power were twisted together which required me to re-do the ends (no biggie). Passenger side was already taped off last time I worked on the car so that only needed to be tucked. The brake lines will need to be cracked open and re routed. During the re-route operation I will tape off the metal portion of the line because that stuff is like a chain saw on the paint. There's a pile of wiring going over the brake booster so I'll try getting that under the booster when the brakes are opened up. I'm going to try getting the O2 wiring pulled tonight. Trying to keep these tasks simple so things actually get done. The last picture here... I really like because I can actually see the engine bay getting cleaner! https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Small updates. Ordered some IDS drag coils that have been valved for 1000+ hp. Should be here in a few months. No rush on those.
Originally I had thought there were wiring issues inside the fuel assembly because the primary pump didn't turn on. I took the fuel hat off and only saw that there were wire detached for the level assembly. Fixed that but it wasn't the main issue... but an issue none the less. Upon further inspection, Someone didn't use a proper crimp tool so Dave fixed what he could and then we couldn't get the last one fixed. Ordered another CJ Motorsports plug because some of the pins were jacked up. Using nice new pins and proper crimps are key for those. Someone folded over the tabs previously, of which I will not call out at the Auto Dynamix shop. It was caught and fixed. This is just inside stuff that can happen anywhere. I'm just showing all the catches where most people/shops don't. Also, take a moment to appreciate how damn big the power and ground wires are for the fuel pumps! With that said, Dave and I back tracked all the wiring that has been done. It all looks good. Although... I have to take the plug apart again because I didn't add in the level sensor signal wires to the clip going into the top hat. oops. Easy fix that doesn't require the fuel hat to come out. Z1 SS brake lines came in. Not sure if I said this or not... but the old brake lines supported the k-member... and engine... This was because the hydraulics on both the forklift and transmission cradle slowly leaked while I was fixing the oil pan. There are visible signs where the line was getting stressed. I don't mess around with brakes, they need to be right. I need to change all the routing on the brake lines anyway. This is a good chance for me to drain the brake fluid and make all the adjustments. Last night I needed to mark where the O2 bungs were going. With the exhaust going back on the car, I took the opportunity to put my trim rings on the car. They look damn good! Very happy with the result. Final thought here.... I figured out a way to clean up the engine bay a bit, but I will do the work down the road, but I want to share because I've been saying I want to clean up the water lines. The front swirl pot will be removed. That space will convert to an expansion tank for the swirl on the cooling system. In the trunk I will add a few gallon water tank placed at a higher level than the pump and radiator (to get air out of the system). There will be a bulk head passthrough so I can detach lines easily. Ideally it will fit in the spare tire well. Then I can hard line the back hauling lines to the front with aluminum tube. That's the idea for the future anyway... later. No more changes are allowed at this time though. serious. I'm not going to put on the drag coils until the car works. With that said, the car is REALLY close to hitting the dyno... for real. Nick and Dave are working on getting their race car done for Sick Week 2023 and are working every night so I'm thinking that the actual dyno runs will happen late to end of February when they get back. That's totally fine too. It's Winter in Michigan so it's not like the car can go on cold salty roads. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
As mentioned before, I needed to get the O2 bungs marked off. That was done and I drilled out the pipe with a hole saw. I cleaned up the bungs and the pipe really well and then Dave tacked both of the bungs but also proceeded to finish welding the driver's side pipe. The finish weld was completed because because he had already welded the exhaust up.
Dave mentioned that he hates the prep work so I leveled out all the MIG tacks, wire brushed all the welding joints, and then degreased the whole pipe. I can see why he was holding off on doing the prep work because I think there was 2hrs in that alone. He mentioned that it would be less than an hour worth of welding now that all that has been done. I suspect he will weld it sometime this week because he has been welding a cage for his "Street Car". Check the cage work out.... They are working on sub 7sec. Also had a custom brake button sent to me by Redondoavab. I love easter eggs on my car like the "SMLH". It's a reference to this build on this site but it's also a hilarious story where it originates from. I think this is MIGHT be the last post or one of the few prior to a dyno run. A battery tender has been until the last bit of wiring is delt with. Inside wiring needs attention from Dave. There are a few grounds and exposed trigger wires that he has set off to the side. I'm not sure what he is doing with those so I have to let them be. Now here's the rub on all this. The "Street Car" is going to Sick Week in Florida in two weeks. They are busting their chops to get that done during the two weeks. The Diehl Brothers (Racing) has completed that promod cage in 3 weeks after hours, certified, built the rear end, mounting tabs, panels and are building three engines. My car is taking a back seat until they wrap up with that event. Sick Week is a drag and drive event. The whole event will be broadcasted live. This is the "Blue Turd" from last year, which is a stock 5.3 LC9 block (CAM and gapped rings). (my engine is WAYYYYYY more built) : https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Please take a moment to appreciate how difficult it is to make the pipes dance around like this. I'm very proud of this accomplishment. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Main take away... We're almost done. What a wild ride guys! Long a$$ time coming and I appreciate all the input over the years. I went from not knowing sh1t to barely knowing sh1t. :)
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I have a plan to pop the mold now. I'll need to make a metal jig and weld in large bolts on the back side of the jig that will allow bolts to enter the back side of the mold. The mold will need to be drilled at the same location of the bolt holes. Then I can use bolts to apply even pressure around the face to release the part. Scott/Madwi gave me this idea in a similar application.
Moving forward in the interim I purchased a cubby from a totaled car. Both bottom legs broke off at some point, one by me and the other in shipping. One leg was epoxied on.... I may have threw the other leg that broke off. ANYWAY, the mount was really easy. I used some scrap carbon fiber at the shop that was cut to the size of the cubby. I used another piece of CF for strength after I cut the holes wrong. The back side of the CF was scuffed and epoxied to the cubby while the front side was silicone sealed. The back side of the cubby was cut open to allow for cabling. If someone wanted a cheap and easy cubby mount, that is the way to go. I have about 3 days into it but most all of that time is waiting for epoxy and sealant to dry. If someone wants a crazy expensive cubby mount in the future... HMU. Patrick/Redondovab is first in line though. Also, I don't really work on timelines so well... wait times may vary. Just look at the history of my build for that confirmation. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://dsm04pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Ok, small updates are better than nothing IMO. The radio, Tinker Electronics and dash (mostly) are back in. The temporary dash looks much better than anticipated. I'm happy with the looks... Now I need to look into reconditioning my dash with some Sonax... She's looking a bit chalky.
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Michigan had some unseasonable warm weather for a few days, so I took advantage. I did a few more layups on the cubby mold. After a complete cure cycle it was time to release the mold. Removal was accomplished by drilling holes into the back of the mold and then hitting 2" bolts with a BFH. To my delight the cubby was released! Upon inspection I noticed that the legs needed some work and a few air pockets needed to be addressed. Marglass was used in the pockets and then sanded. After that, I followed on with light weight Bondo to smooth out the surface.
I recently ordered a center cubby console off of ebay so that I can test the accuracy of the mold. TBH, I think it's dead on but I will give it a test as soon as it comes in this week. Once the weather gets a little warmer I can start in on the B side of the mold. That shouldn't be anything like the first part of the molding process. I already have the mold and all I need to do is get the face and mount points for my Tinker Electronics display. Working a bit more with fiberglass has helped me understand how to lay it and the the timing of the resin. You might be thinking I went hard on the resin for the A side... well, that was intentional. I needed to make sure that the face had an accurate representation and I wasn't comfortable at laying in the fiberglass. A forum member asked for cubby mount for a Motorvate digital display so I think he will get an even better cubby mount than what I have. Next cubby will have less resin and OEM looking feet (I hope). And let's be honest... The feet came out pretty decent on the first one here. I'm just looking for perfection I guess. Perhaps I will do vacuum bagging on the next one? Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm. In other news. Sick week wrapped up and the Diehl Brothers landed top 10 in their class (I think 8th). Check out the video of their last run. During the week they were out my Nismo RS Juke was totaled. A kid pulled out in front of me in a full sized Tacoma. No injuries were reported but I'm sure that kids Dad was mad as hell. Now I'm on the hunt for a nice daily. You ight be curious as to why I'm posting that bit of information... Well... I now have Nismo RS Juke seats for my Z. I'm actually on the fence about putting them in. They look amazing but they are heavy due to air bags. I know this is going to be a shocker, but my Z will not have airbags. Hey, I guess I have options. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Phase 1 of the cubby mount has been completed. I had to massage the bottom of the cubby and ended up taking a tad too much off the bottom, but I still think it looks amazing. Fitment around the sides are completely snug.
Now I need to move on to phase 2 which is making the fiberglass mount for my Tinker Electronics. That's happening today hopefully. Also, the B side of my mount should snug up the bottom middle section of the fiberglass cubby mount. Phase 3 will be purely aesthetics. I'll add carbon fiber to the face, prime the cubby and then paint it. I'll keep you guys looped in. I've had a few people inquire about getting a cubby so I'll just address that below if you're serious. Best place to reach me is on Instagram@gbrettin because that's a public profile. What does it fit in? -- 370z only. What is it used for? -- After market gauges or anything your heart desires. What are the face dimensions? -- 5" x 7". Actually slightly larger but you'll have 3/8" wiggle room. How much? -- $599. Why so much? -- It took forever to make the mold and the materials were not cheap. I will likely make a 3D printed version which will be much cheaper in the future, but that's not where I am at now. There's also no guarantee I will get around to that either, so don't bank on it. What is the lead time? -- 3mo approximately. I do it in my free time and have a day job. How long do you plan on making these? -- Not sure. Might be a one off if no one is interested. If you're still interested then PM me on IG@gbrettin for further discussion. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Moving onto phase 2. I was able to pop a perfect fiberglass mold of the front bezel. NO AIR POCKETS! hah. I think I have the hang of fiberglass now. I'll do vacuum bagged cubby mounts going in the future but I wanted to work on this doing hand layups.
90% of the face was cut out of the original face. I left a corner at the top left and right of the original face and then a small strip at the bottom so I can lay the bezel against that with out it moving around. I used a finger sander to carve out the back side so that I could lay my Tinker Electronics display flush against the bezel and so that side can support the unit. Lightweight bondo was used in the small areas around the border. As mentioned earlier, I wanted to fix the bottom of the mount so that there are very tight gaps between the oem plastic and the cubby. Now here's were it got tricky... My car is 30min from my house. I used marglass to build up the bottom to the gap I marked out on the face, ranging from 1/16 to 1/8. Excess fiberglass was cut from the bottom of the mount with a razorblade while the fiberglass was soft. I'd say about 6-8min after initially mixing it up. Then I used 80grit to lightly shape at the 11 - 12min mark. Then I loaded up the orbital sander, sand paper, and cubby into the car and headed down to the shop to test fit. Now this doesn't happen often, but I applied the correct amount of fiberglass or at least knocked it down to the right spots the first time. For being the first mount that came out of the mold, I'm extremally happy with the cubby mount. It fits exactly the way I want. Originally I was going to toss this one in the garbage because of the original layup wasn't great due to the air pockets and the feet did not form how I wanted. This particular part is imperfectly perfect to me. I'm going to clean up a few areas and bond some mounting brackets, but this thing is nearly ready for primer/paint. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Primed, bondo, sanded, primed, scuffed, and tested.
That pretty summed up what happened in the pictures below. Hard part was doing bondo on the bottom again because I had to do guess work on the sanding because my car was remote. Thankfully I had reference marks and it worked out again. First picture shows the problem areas at the bottom when I primed it. Short story, all the issues came out and said "HI!!!!!!!" after I primed it. I'll need to make one more pass with limited bondo and then prime it at 3rd time. Fun times! The work appears to be paying off. Painting it black is going to be pretty easy after all this. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
OK this might be one of the posts you have been waiting for. The cubby mount is done for my Tinker Electronics. I was going to inlay carbon fiber... but nah. I think it looks really damn good as is. Leading up to the completion I had to figure out how to mount the display to the cubby. I went to Lowes and bought a few different types of L brackets and some Polycarbonate. Turns out the L brackets fit the bill perfectly. All I needed to do was sand out slots on the side of the cubby and then epoxy them down. I used two types of epoxies to do this. The first was a clear gel that I put into the grove and all around the metal. Now, I know this is likely enough but I used a different two part epoxy that built up and over the cubby (it was less runny.). The mount worked perfect!
Now I'm just getting things out of order... Prior to doing the mount, I attempted to paint the cubby with VHT satin paint. It looked amazing! Down side was that the color and look was all wrong for interior. After sanding 95% of the paint off I learned that Spray Max sells a matt black trim paint and satin black trim paint. So... I bought both of them. I started out with the matt black trim, after the the other debacle, and it was exactly what I was going for. I sure hope you guys liked seeing the complete process from A-Z for this. It wasn't a cake walk for me. Now I'm working on getting the mold prepared for Mr. Redondoaveb. He has some awesome plans with the blank cubby mount and Frank Motorvate. I need to lay out clear coat over the face of the cubby. I found out that the cubby will pull the slightest imprint onto the face. I was so happy with my cubby's fitment that I gave it to a buddy that works in fabrication for airplanes (I'm sure there's a fancy name for it) and he said that they have a 100k+ dollar scanner that he can scan the cubby mount. This will be the first step in getting a 3D printed version out to people. Now, I don't know if this will actually materialize getting done, but getting it going to see what can come of it is a big step. I've had 4-5 people ask about getting a cubby and they immediately lost interest when I told them 700. I can't say I blame them, it's expensive. However, I'd gladly pay 700 not to f#uck with buying supplies, sanding, and sinking my time in general if I personally had the option. It was a LOT of work getting to this point. I think people understand that though, or at least hope so, because I've been completely transparent about this process. I'll need to get the cubby back soon though... My Z is scheduled for some dyno time soon! Pictures are in order of process: https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
You might be wondering what all the fuss is around the cubby mount. Check the video out showing what it can provide for read outs. I also wouldn't say it
s the "best" digital display. There are a lot of really good displays out. : |
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Most of my dash is back together. A manual trim ring was modified to work with the Outlaw shifter, material was removed and the leather boot sliced and glued. It's not perfect but looks better than a hole. I'll worry about that detail later. Exhaust pipes came back from getting ceramic titanium.
I now have everything for the Sikky subframe minus custom DSS axels. I have a little bit of wiring needed but that's on deck this Sunday. Pending the wiring.... I should be on the dyno despite not having the Winters Quick Change in. Much Excite! https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
You may notice, we tore apart the dash and assembled again. and again. probably need to do it a few more times. I simply would not have been able to get over the hurdle of car wiring with out Dave's help (owner of Auto Dynamix). Dave re-did the push to start controls and finalized them, terminated the CAN EGT, and a whole bunch of "small" things that needed to be tied down. The car even has a neutral safety switch so it will not send its self through a wall if it happens to start in gear.
Couple notable items during that hectic day. The air to water fill sucks a$$. I'm removing the second swirl pot in favor of an actual 5gal water box that I will locate in the trunk. This will allow easy fill and the opportunity to run ice if I really want to. Fairly easy fix. The turbos were seeping oil and then cleared up. Odd. They cleared up on the dyno, so what ever. The turbos are actually larger than I thought, 72/76. The buggy that it came off of previously produced 1800+hp .... I thought it made 1200. I didn't think the turbos would spool quick. WRONG. they immediately come online. I always hear them whirling. The springs were opening at about 6lbs and I think that this setup will produce about 600whp with out turning anything up. Yes, that's the bottom of the bucket HP for the car and only goes up from there. This week we are planning on doing some power pulls. The car is out of e85 on the dyno so I'm literally going to the local gas station and will pump 20gal of freshness into plastic race cans. Also I need to pull the injectors out off the car because I'd rather not burn a hole in a piston due to some gummy junk at WOT. There's no doubt in my head this will make 1000hp+ (dyno queen sh1t) driving on gate pressure this year will be perfectly fine for me considering where the bar will be set. Keep in mind, this engine can spin about 9k rpm after a bit more break in. OH, I drove the car under its own power on the road yesterday! It was 1/10 of a mile.... but it was a mental hurdle A funny note - a truck passed me on the road and they stabbed the brakes and looked at me like I had three heads. I was doing about 3-5mph down the road. The car sounds like an absolute animal... watch the videos with the sound on. Copied from FB because I don't feel like writing much... Yeah, lazy... I know. I'm really working towards getting to Zdayz this year and I would love to see you guys there at Blowing Rock, NC! I'm going to drive this hazard down. :) ------------- Had a fairly stressful, yet rewarding day, yesterday. I've been pushing to get my car on the dyno and ready for Zdayz this year. My buddy, shop owner of Auto Dynamix, used his Sunday to get the wiring done (I was there assisting). We managed to knock out 99% of the wiring and got the car on the dyno. I pretty much was on pins and needles yesterday because I know the fool that built and fabricated everything (me). There were a few minor issues but that's expected since I didn't use a kit for any of this swap except for the LOJ engine mounts. Hopefully I'll be able to get some power pulls done this week after I put some fresh e85 in and clean the injectors one last time (car sat for a long while with e85 in it). Any questions, let me know; I'm an open book about this build (most people tend not to share specifics). I've posted the entire build process on my IG@gbrettin if you want to see the entirety of it. Also, come out to Zdayz if you want to see it in person and chat me up! https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Been a little bit since I posted an update. The initial dyno tuning session did not go well. The car was not running properly so a series of tests needed to be conducted. Ill try running through the list... We ran the gambit. This is also to show some of the not so glorious things that happen on fresh builds. Mine may be a little worse... well, becase I worked on it.
1. Before we put the car on the dyno the injectors were cleaned because the e85 sat for a while, couldn't run the risk of a lean cyl. One of the injectors got pinched on installation. This required the fuel rail to come back off and a new O ring to be put on. Re-test on dyno. Car still running poor. Symptom. I could stand on the gas pedal for 15sec and no power. 2. Reviewed plug wires and saw that 2 boots were not pressed in all the way. Push them in more. The angle is weird and Firecore plugs clip really hard... fine, easy fix. I will take that. No dice. Car still runs like **** where it should make power. 3. Pull the spark plugs and inspect them. They all look good. 4. Verified Spark from coil packs. Good, they discharged enough electricity to kill someone on death row. 5. Pulled the valve covers and checked lash. I measured but didnt account for the oil pressure on the Johnson Lifters. Ordered new push rods and installed. This was an issue but not the fix. Car still ran like junk. 6. Did a compression test to make sure nothing was hurt. All cylinders came back with 185-190 compression. Dave had a sneaking suspicion that the timing was off. The question was farmed out to a group of local well known drag racers and they all kind of thought the same thing. I went back to my picture archive and looked at the last rebuild 2 years ago. Not sure if any of you remember that, but I pulled the engine apart because there was debris in the engine. I DID HAVE THAT PICTURE! wow! The timing chain had two sets of numbers, one number on the teeth and another near the crank snout. I used the "0" near the crank snout and not the 0 on the tooth. Well.... my car was literally off by 90 degrees! So... This is where the pictures below take us. I had to take apart the front of my car to get to the timing chain. This last weekend I took it apart on Sat and then on Sun it was reassembled. Much to my delight, we resolved the problem. Also, other problem areas were addressed such as a little a leak from my scavenger pump, heat shielding, and zip tied wires. The "small things" had to be addressed before they turned into massive issues. Example - The heat shielding was specifically for the power steering line. There was a small burn mark on it. I'm certain that would burn through and cause a fire if it wasn't addressed. SO, I'm taking all the stuff we did in stride. The suck was embraced for lemonade. The car runs smooth (not so much like a promod now.. and I'm ok with that!). Boost comes in and rips at 3800RPM. The short video at the end is just a quick verification of everything. I permanently removed the swirl pot for the A2W up front... too much of a PITA. I couldn't get it to fill properly. I purchased a Shear Fab 5gal water tank and will have that in the trunk of the car. Ill have the option to run ice I guess. -Edit - I made 20lbs of boost in the video. Bonus points for someone to say why. Hint: evidence is in pictures. For the people that already know the answer through Discord, keep the answer to yourself. lol https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Heatshield. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Top radiator hose is not hooked right. intentionally didn't want it flopping around. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Damn boost junkie. :shakes head:
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And about 1 year later I finally make some power. lol. Project builds.... fun... yes. fun.
Made a little over 600whp on 16lbs of boost and 550tq. BUT, cyl 7 went cold, I ran out of fuel pump and the turbos need a rebuild. The turbos pushed oil and likely put oil on the plug of cyl 7 (I need to pull the plug to verify). The previous run made 12lbs made 540/540, so that's the last decent run for the turbo before it gave out. How do I know cyl 7 went cold? I have EGT sensors hooked up and I saw the moment it went cool in the data log. The fix? I'm getting new Bullseye turbos and will hook up my other Walbro 525 pump. -Edit - The dyno pull was at 7000rpm and the engine should spin up to 9,000. The internal components should be able to take around 40psi. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Keeping this short. Pictures show the story. Ordered new turbos because my old turbos were junk (said in last post). Owner of Bullseye Turbos made me a set of turbos in 2 days! Picked them up and should be all set to install tonight.
Wiring is going to be a constant clean up until it gets to be OEM like. It's getting there with the wiring tuck. Basically have to keep going over it until it's perfect. I had to replace the battery with new one so I went with a Lithium Antigravity. The constant power was also removed from the battery in favor of a signal wire. That allows the car to actually be off completely at the safety switch AND so the 2nd fuel pump can be triggered at high boost. With that said, the second fuel pump is now operational. The waterlines were removed to simplify. I'll post those pictures when I crack into the process. CO2 was hooked up but I didn't really show much about that previously. Lines were fairly simple. That's how I managed to do 16lbs on the dyno with 6lb springs. Cyl7 dropped because I didn't clip the Firecore boot on all the way. I forgot to hit it with my purse. The IGN1A burnt a hole through the silicon boot. The amount of spark they produce is unreal! I found the perfect sticker that represents my build... lol https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Great update. Love the sticker!
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Had to thrash over the last few days to get the new turbos to work. Nothing fit because the Turbonetics frame was different. Turbo mount point was cut and then rewelded. Intercooler had to be cut and welded. Exhaust was a marmon flange on the Bullseye so that was extra tricky, again cut and rewelded. The marmon flange is 3.5" my buddy plasma cut a 3.5" flange with an inside 3" diameter hole the exhaust could be attached to. There's no practical reason to do 3.5" exhaust out the front bumper ... and there's no way in heck i'm fabbing that again.
There were a number of issues found breaking everything down. 6 boost leaks in the A2W, one bolt loose on the up pipe which showed scorching on the gasket, and 4 bad plug wires (3 arced and 1 roasted). Pinched ORB rings on the turbo drains (caused leaks). I put flanged bolts with pipe dope on threads and copper gasket on the head to stop the 6!!!! boost leaks. So stupid it was manufactured that way. Used the same copper gasket on the up pipes and turbo. The plug wire on the inside of the Firecore plugs got mashed back which caused the arc, the other one was on the header. Happy I ordered an extra set, just incase. New ORBs on the turbo drains. Also had to clearance the oil drains so that there was a tiny air gap. After everything was together we did some dyno work and got the engine to produce 850whp. WHY NO 1000 HP GREG?!?!?!?! well, the second fuel pump appears to not pull fuel from the tank correctly. Likely a line came off? Doesn't really matter. I can fix it later. I probably wont even turn the power past 600 this year anyway (which is where the first pump stops). Something I need to change out the twin intake from the car. It stops RPM at 7,000. The twin intake also stops me from easily working on my car... which I apparently need to be able to work on it easily. SO.... I'm going to change the A2W, Plenum and charge tubes to simplify everything. That's not happening for months. I just need to enjoy the car for a little bit. The good news about the changes is that the system fits way better together now and everything aligns on the X pipe, intercooler and turbos. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
I'm currently doing a lot of upgrades and changes on the car; however, I'm not going to be posting the progress of that so much. The car is getting cosmetic changes and some revisions on the cold side. I was committed to showing the entire DIY TT LS swap and have completed that goal. I'll leave you with the final picture, for now.
Thank you to everyone that went through the entire thread and/or have followed this over the years. If there are any questions, feel free to reach out on IG@gbrettin, or gbrettin@gmail.com. I don't really monitor forum messages. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
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