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Ah wiring, the most fun part of any project.
I have these that work awesome with the Z AC lines. My forearm got scratched from me looking at the cut lines :rofl2: https://www.greatnecksaw.com/a-c-spr...oupling-tool-1 At least your bay is jam packed for a reason this time, also you're keeping it OEM since Nissan loves to pack 10lbs of "stuff" in a 5lb sack |
Sirnixalot - I ordered those greatneck tools you pointed out. Thanks. Deep down having those bent lines annoyed me but not enough to take it off previously.
Brake lines are all done with the exception of one line for the driver's side front wheel. The line I originally had was too short by two inches. I ordered another -3 line that was longer, but the ends were -4. Oopps. I have another one ordered so it should be here pretty soon, probably on Tuesday July 5th. I did notice that there are black rubber coated lines AFTER I ordered all my -3 lines.... god that is annoying. The current -3 lines are like little saws that are F'ing up the engine bay paint. I need to tape the lines with felt so it doesn't buzz saw everything. Aside from that, I adapted all the pipe and thread lines to AN on the master cylinder and on the line where the hardline use to be. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Greg, after seeing the car the other day. Great job. :tup: But it's going to take you a month of Sundays to clean it. :rofl2:
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For inquiring minds... There was a Z meetup at Madwi's place in W Michigan. A group of people came out to visit Auto Dynamix, where my Z is, to check the build out. I was legitimately getting pumped up with adrenalin because I was so excited people could see the car 97% together. Yeah, I'm odd... but it made my day! :icon17: |
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Did some brain storming at Madwi's/Scott's place on July 3rd and saw that the manual trim ring was much shorter than the auto ring. Madwi is converting his interior over to black so he was able to spare me his bezel. Thanks dude! After getting very aggressive hacking the plastic out of the underside (probably more than needed). The AT blank needs to be glued into the empty hole... unless I want to add something from billet automotive button in there... hmmm.
https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/ I was able to get the manual shift ring in. WOW! it looks amazing and allows for perfect function! The red lever also sits above the bezel too! Only thing I will need to do is put some leather in.... Later of course (over winter so I can have some leather sewn up. I'll worry about the blank hole later too. XRP drain lines and line for ethanol sensor to filter came in. The Fitting couldnt spin in-between the turbo and up pipe. Nothing that a bench grinder couldn't solve. If you can't grind a 100 line.... you're not ready for the mod game. lol https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
You're consistent as all hell with the tig on those pie cuts, I am jealous.
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I bought four of these: Tigtonic 3" Fully Welded Pie Cuts Lobster Tail 90 Degree Stainless for Turbo Exhaust Intake https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NTHRWQ4 and a few stacks of these: Tigtonic 3" Stainless Pie Cuts Kit 90 Degree Bend for Custom Exhaust 6 Pieces https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Deg.../dp/B07NV1BHNH Just making my life easier at this point. |
When welding stainless tubing or pipe. You have to purge the inside of the tubing or pipe to get a good weld. Otherwise the weld will sugar on the inside.
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Rear brakes were looking wore out and I assumed that the pads were done too. When I took everything apart I was surprised to see as much pad as I did on the EBC yellows because they had MANY Tail of the Dragon runs on them and spirited driving braking.
I thought that the rear spacers had a broken stud, but apparently that was only on the front hub. Rear spacing has increased from 20mm to 25mm. Eh, what ever. not the end of the world getting new spacers on. I did notice that the threads were not great on the H&R spacers so it's not a waste. Rotors are cheap run of the mill which will be mated to Hawk track pads. However, these brakes are not the end game for the car because they will be switched out to TBM ultra light rotors and billet calipers. The TBM rotor will allow for 15" tires for drag racing and be a huge upgrade over the non sport conversion everyone does. I'm not doing that route right now because brackets will need to be made and I'm not doing any more special projects until this thing is done. Where are we at on the "sliding done scale"? 1. Mount the gas pedal. - The pedal was welded up by Dave and is ready to go. Holes have been drilled and just needs to have a pin put through the cable to the pedal. Easier said than done because that's way under the dash. 2. Properly bleed the brakes. - I did a gravity bleed because I was alone. NOT GOOD ENOUGH. 3. Terminate and clean for final wiring. - ... ok "final" is kind of loose here. It's going to be final in the sense of mechanically working, not beautiful. I can tidy everything up at my house on my own time after it is working. 4. Cut bumper for fender exit and align exhaust out. - I have had multiple people tell me that the exhaust will scoop air in its current form. Yes, I know this... It's not done. The alignment part will extend the exhaust out and I will use a pie to direct the exhaust towards the back of the car. 5. TIG weld exhaust w/ bung. - I'm obviously not doing the TIG, Dave can knock that out. 6. Dyno tune car. - There's a dyno at the shop and we have tuning know how. Not a huge hurdle. 7. Melt the rear tires to the cords with burn out and get new tires. - The tires are old at this point. I can't think of a better way to complete the project phase. SO, that's the short list folks. There's always something that pops up but that list is fairly locked in. Also want to say thanks to Leingod for sending me two OEM lugs. I apparently lost a couple somewhere down the line. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
No real updates other than having a few parts come in that I specifically want to show... mainly because I think it's hilarious.... Clearly I don't take the build stuff too seriously.
Exhaust trim ring came in, so now I can get the holes in the bumper and exactly line them out to where they need to go. Paid 50bucks per trim ring due to the engraving. Worth it. DE_50 / Andrew sent me his used SPL FUCA. I've been asking for them about 2 years... Well, not that I was worried about running a while ago. They came in at the right time. Andrew, if you see this, thanks buddy! Lastly... I signed up for LS Fest again. I'll actually make it out there this year. I signed up for true street drag racing, because why not have the option to rip down the track? I believe it also got entered as "under construction". I'm not going to be fully buttoned up with everything, so I figured it to be a safe bet. True street is an index class. See the rules.pdf https://www.lsfest.com/bowling-green...reen/dragrace/ https://www.lsfest.com/wp-content/up...East-Ruels.pdf https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I'm officially drowning in too much stuff with work and homelife, much of it I will not go into on a public forum. I've officially hired Auto Dynamix to work on my wiring of my car so that I can make headway while I deal with work and homelife urgent matters. I'm probably not going to be posting anything until after Aug 15th, same for IG.
Yay.... adulting... |
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I love my occasional visits and awesome people still doing awesome builds. The Z community rules!
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I stopped up to the shop yesterday for a few and the car was off the hoist getting wiring worked out. A couple wires were re routed here and there, connectors added, wires extended, trigger wires going to the ECU, and a few other items that I'm sure I forgot. All the wiring is getting labeled and documented. You know... professional stuff. I think for the most part all the hard cable monkey work was completed by me. All the heavy cable was pulled to the right area, ECU was pulled through and plugged in, a lot of OE wiring was thinned out, and I had a lot of extended connectors.
*edit* - The car has sooooooo much dirt on it, you can not see through the rear window. It's nuts. For the record, I was pretty insane about keeping my car washed and waxed prior. Madwi offered to help me do a quick detail on my car... I will take him up on that offer. lol While I was at the shop, Dave mentioned to me that it would be a good time to get the MAC valves ordered and wired. The MAC valves are used with CO2 to control the waste gates, well... the ECU will tell how much dome pressure to add specifically which is why he wants to wire it. SO, I immediately purchased the Motion Raceworks dual MAC valve setup: https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...20374401843318 If you really want to know what the MAC valve setup is all about then check out this video. I don't really see people using it on the forums or FB. My quick explanation above (adding dome pressure) is basically like using an infinite spring rate inside your waste gates. My springs inside my waste gates are 6lb springs so minimally my car will make 6ish lbs of boost (maybe some boost creep?). THEN if I have CO2 working on my car I can pin it shut and run 35-40lbs (maybe not 40lbs because that would be like 2,000hp for 3-4 seconds until the rods fly to heaven) https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I was given a teaser pic and told that my car is almost done. Teaser pic or not, I know exactly where the ECU and TCM is mounted, it's right under the passenger side dash below the HVAC. The mounting looks super clean and the wires don't appear to be going crazy.
Dave (shop owner) thinks that I will be on the road soon. Overall, not much of an update other than my excitement bleeding through. *edit* I'm on the hunt for a cubby compartment while my other cubby is stuck in a mold. I have feelers out on the Internet and one dude on Reddit said he would send me the cubby for about 50 bucks (pretty much my top dollar). All the other cubby units on ebay have been 80-200 dollars, which I'm sure they are just flying off the shelves because EVERYONE needs them. A little salty about the ebay thing because I offered 55 dollars to them and snubbed me. Might have been a message from me telling them to E.A.D. if they think they are going to get 75 (their counter offer). ohhhh well. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I stopped up to the shop during lunch and broke out my GoPro. There has been some serious improvements. My Rife temp/pressure sensor was removed, apparently the Motion Raceworks flex fuel sensor can do that, and replaced with Low Dollar Motorsports pressure sensor that was wired into my MS3 wiring harness (pretty dang trick). CJM Fuel pumps have been wired and the extra pump will be triggered by the ECU during boost. The wiring for the fuel stuff has been ran back through the OEM cover. Transmission has been wired for trans brake and neutral safety. Lo Jack (a variant) wired into the car... I'm not telling anyone where that is for obvious reasons. There's a ton of stuff that has been routed and cleaned up. Anyway, 1min video of a walk around.
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Methods of mayhem in the world of ADD:
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Video of it running. Plenty to work out still.
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Fuckin thing is a beast!! :drool: :rock:
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:tup:
:happydance: :nutswinger: :leghump: |
Why oh why can’t I see the videos???
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Been a bit since I updated here with pictures. I'm slightly behind. As you saw in the past two videos... or maybe you didn't, because you wanted to save yourself from hearing me (I get it). The FUCA's were replaced with SPL thanks to Andrew / DEpoint50(sp?). I gacked the bolts holding FUCA front arm, I was being lazy trying to do it with a wrench and not the proper socket. Shame on me. I picked up new bolts... two bolts and nuts literally cost 10 bucks from the hardware store.
The other video showed the car running and there were issues after. The coolant system had air, oil leak under the pan returned (AN seat issue), oil drips on the turbo drain orb (loose), scavenger pump oil drip on the lower side where the threaded pipe goes in (needs more teflon tape /tighter), every single line after the ID750 filter leaked (including the crimped line), primary fuel pump hose fell off in tank (secondary pump triggered in video). New build pains... ALL the leaking fuel lines were taken out and will be replaced with XRP crimped lines. I don't like the idea of fuel leaks at all. I had a chat with my buddy Justin Good, owner of Redline Design, about printing the goat logo... Well, he did and they came out amazing! I'm going to put that on my rear quarter. I'll probably tack a small one on my race helmet on the back possible. My other fender is finally on the car! and both fenders are secured with bolts. That was a requirement prior to doing the front dump exhaust. My paint/body buddy, same owner as the white TT G8, cut out 3" holes which were the ID of the trim rings. Well, turns out you don't want the same size inside diameter of the pipe... both are 3". The holes were left on the bumper so that I could guide the pipes out the hole to the exact same location on passenger and driver's side. Lining out the drivers side exhaust was pretty easy (still took time). The piping that I mocked up to go out the bumper happened to be perfect length and almost the exact angle I needed. All I had to do was massage the angle on the long pipe, clock the 90 pie slightly different and cap the out side with a pie. I wish the passenger side was as easy... because that was a dirty hooker. The orientation of the pie was clocked back coming off the turbo to accommodate more air gap (driver side has more now too). The exit angle was way off after clocking (and before clocking). I used what pies I had to change the angle but tried to keep it somewhat limited. Reason I used the pies was because I could change how the pies oriented which changed the pipe angle multiple ways while keeping maximum space away from the tire. The pies also had a perfect flat surface. I only had my Metabo to cut pipe. Using the angle grinder is time consuming, dirty, and it runs a risk of personal injury (I'm not joking. It crosses my mind every time I use it cutting pipe). After 12 HOURS! the passenger side was completed. I was hot, tired, and angry at the end of this one. The v-band was on and off no less than 30 separate times. Every time a section was added it was harder to clamp on. Yeah... long day. Yesterday I worked on making a small bracket for my bumper. It's going to tie into my A2W. The past couple days kicked my butt getting my exhaust ready for TIG and I wasn't able to finish. It sounds simple but there are a few small hurdles. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Jankazz weld jobs (in tags)... eat a d1ck. lol. That weld is beast for that little plate and rod.
With that said, I threw it out. I wasn't happy with it. No reason for plate steal to hold the bumper. I cut up a thin gauge of steal and hit it with a dimple die. Lighter and will get the job done. Replaced the last Fragola with a 45 vibrant. That should do the trick. The fitting was pretty damn easy to put on because of the line was filled with break in oil, all the way to the top of the line. I had to be careful not to spill! lol. I used hose cutters to get the old line off and to make sure that the line was nice and flush. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Wow... the tag cloud is wild... lmao!
These are the 70 most used thread tagsTag Cloud ! a zing ❤️s ew's 4 skin ..betty is a kok licker ..betty licks ew kok ..betty luvs gangbang by elves 370z aam a ew ❤ licking madwi azzrim airbag light all blk kok's matter 2 zing a mads jax ew's piss pump a madwi ❤️ 2 kok dp in azz a madwi: knob/shaft > puzzy a madwi luvz monkeypox kok jam a madwi sux ew kok dry auto a zing ❤️s 2 lick ew's 4 skin a zing ❤️s ew's 4 skin betty ❤️ bottom 4 stud kok betty ❤️licking ew bung hole be wary of jarbo's advice bumper cthru a pissy canuck cuck! cthru gently rubs betty's back electrical exhaust fast intentions gains headers hey kinfolk can i bring bf? high flow hood jar ❤ zing's hog dikk lug mads a simp for ew's microkok madwi ❤️ plowing betty's hole madwi anally welcomes ew madwi jealous of zing's kok manual nismo nismo 370z noise oem parts for sale rays spooler... spooler can check ur oil 4 u springs stillen subwoofer suspension tune wheels zing ❤️s 2 b mounted by bettyz zing ❤️s 2 b mounted by ew zing ❤️s 2 b topped by bettyz zing ❤️s 2 b topped by ew zing ❤️s 2b banged by blk kok zing ❤️s 2b kok topped zing ❤️s 2b topped zing ❤️s eating man hole zing ❤️s ew's 4 skin zing ❤️s luvs all blk koks zing ❤️s man kok & taint zing 4 sure ❤️s ew zing n ❤️ with ew zing nibbles ew's 4 skin zing tongue's ew's bung zing y 4u ew's kok n ur azz zoren kok rams madwi's azz zz betty & jar fight 4 kok |
tags r fun :D
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Put all the fuel lines back in, didn't pressure test yet. Main fuel pump hose fell off in the tank I think so the pump needs to be inspected and then I will pressure test with the main pump. Hose lengths were perfect on everything so I was able to secure my filter to the car properly with screws.
The exhaust was not angled correctly and extended too far out on the driver's side. I spent a lot of time getting the pipe angle symmetrical to the passenger side. Front facia holes were expanded for the new trim piece. You'll notice the holes getting bigger through out the pictures. I didn't get a picture of it finalized... but what ever, it's a hole. Last thing I did was get the waste gate pipe cut and on. both pipes are close to the same length one is a bit longer because one waste gate sits a bit higher due to how the OEM header sits higher. All the exhaust piping is done. It's out the door for TIG welding. First photos shows the angle. Notice how it tips up too much and how far it sticks out. I needed to have most of the pipe close to flush with the bumper and then pie out a few back so that air doesn't get rammed down the exhaust. Getting the pipes to match using metal is extremally difficult, I also tried keeping the piping tight so the welds would be good. Hopefully context will help with the photos as I go. Or else it will look like random exhaust shots. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Compare to the passenger side https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Cut the odd angle with the Metabo... Not really different when I need other cuts though. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Overhead shots to show the tire gap. This is absolute max space given the turbo location. Very happy with the spacing. Wasn't done with the angling but wanted the picture. The passenger side was difficult because the pipe needed to extend down, then come back in next to the up pipe, and then make the correct angle out the bumper while keeping maximum space away from tire. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Driver's side angled to what the passenger side is.... I might have worked it a few more times after this too. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Finished piping. Notice the ends have been angled back. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Bumper on perspective https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Pipe is slightly too big for the Wastegate because it is supposed to fit inside. I don't care, it's what the shop had. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Left hand side you can see the dump pipe. It doesn't need to go down far. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Gates poke past oil plumbing.... Probably needs a heat shield there. Also if you look close you can see oil on the black pipe going into the scavenger pump. I need to take it off and tighten. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
I cant wait to hear this thing.
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Didn't really post much about the drive by cable pedal... but here it is.
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All the leaks have been addressed on the car with the exception of one. ANPlumbing lines proved their worth on everything with the exception of the pan, and that's because the rear fitting has been gacked (see picture). With that said, the pan had to be pulled off no matter if I want to repair or get a new pan. I opted to get a new Sikky rear sump pan that can hold 7.5qts, has traps, and most importantly has ORB bungs that screw into the pan so that AN lines can attach. Here's the pan:
https://www.sikky.com/product/370z-l...-sump-oil-pan/ Getting the old pan off was a challenge. I went to harbor freight and picked up an engine support bar so that the engine could remain in place. The engine is also being supported by the transmission. Prior to finding the engine support bar I was stressed out because I thought that I was going to have to disassemble the front end of the car, disconnect all wiring and take off the transmission. SOOO, happy about not doing that. That's not to say getting the k-member to drop off wasn't a challenge... it's about 1/10th of the challenge that pulling the engine represented. lol. The pan is currently off and I'm now waiting for my other pan to arrive. Prior to pulling the pan I drained the oil (obviously) but also removed the Clearview filter. The screen caught a few larger debris which was cool to see it was working. While inspecting the Clearview I noticed some oil seeping out the side, not a lot, so the whole unit was tightened up (the bolts were loose snug so they were snugged with a 1/4 turn past). New K&N gold has now replaced the STP filter. Engine masters did a oil filter test with the K&N gold filter that's worth checking out. Ok, so back to the pan. I noticed break in of bearing materials at the bottom of the pan with no evidence of the engine eating its self. The engine probably has about 45min of run time total at this point with about 4 heat cycles. I think it's time to pour the 14w - 40 Amsoil engine oil in when the new pan goes on. The engine will get dyno time and about 100mi before the next change. I know there's a lot of ideas about break in theory but this is the path I'm taking. My main goal is to keep contaminants to a minimum. So my off time I really wanted to get the mold going again for my cubby. I have the whole mold roughed out so I can do vacuum bagging. I gave up on the compression mold idea due to the height on the back side. Lots of hand sanding in my near future. Lastly, I needed a simple win... so I installed my parachute handle. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
From IG@gbrettin:
I've got to hand it to @sikkymanufacturing, their pan looks top notch. The pan has a billet block that bolts into the pan that allows for -10 lines. The pan flange looks to be billet. Welds all look great. Sides have a drain for my scavenger pump. The oil reservoir has trap doors to prevent oil starvation. Capacity is 7.5 qts. The pan thickness is beefy. So yeah, great product so far. Now to get it on my car... And hopefully no other modifications are needed. ------- The summation of what I said on IG was pretty on point. One other thing that makes the pan highly desirable is the ORB fittings on the pan... SO if it gets stripped out from some @ssh0l3 then it can easily be changed. A little birdy on the Internet also told me to pour some oil into the pan before putting it on the car to check for leaks. That was some solid advice that I can't pass on. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
The Sikky pan was a flop!
Sikky designed their pan to work exclusively with Sikky mounts. Unfortunately I can not change from my LOJ mounts because the transmission, turbos, up pipes and exhaust can not move back and down roughly 3in that is needed. Some injury to insult... The hydraulic jack used to bring my k-member up and down works with approximations. When letting the jack down it abruptly drops about 1-2 feet and then bounces a bit. Not super scarry at all with a few hundred pounds sitting on it. Don't worry about it dropping too far because my stainless steel brake lines slowed one of the bounces. Sooooo.... looks like I'm in the market to replace my SS brake lines. Not that they leak or anything but they did just have 200lb yank on them. Later that night, when I was really mad, I called my buddy who designed the pan and asked him if we could chop the flange off the Sikky pan and weld it up to the old pan ... Sure can! So I am going to meet yo with him and both of the pans to make some Frankenstein stuff happen. The next day after that call I was a bit more calm and found a remote adapter that might be adapted to the old pan with out hacking the Sikky pan up. That would allow me to sell the Sikky pan at a discount to someone, because it's "used". My Amsoil came in... which was a slap in the face.:icon14: Aggression was taken out on my cubby mold. Right side of the mold is now smoothed out. Left side and top need just a bit more, but the next step is going to be filling some of the low belt sanded spots with a bit of fiberglass. Really, the mold is nearly done! It's shaped out to do vacuum bag molds. The face of the cubby for the mold is pristine still, and as far as I'm concerned the only thing that really needs to look perfect. As you can see the back has been dinged up. I'll hit the bad spots with bondo and sand smooth but like I said... not a big deal. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Shows how far the engine needs to move back compared to the oil pickup... 3in? https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Space on the back of the engine compared to firewall. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Ordered this next day air. Maybe it's a fix? Like I said, I'll chop the $780.00 Sikky pan to get this project done. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none Oil that can't go in my car... https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
I finally wrapped up the mold. There are a few pin holes in the mold but they can all be filled with filleting wax or plasticine clay. Also, the edges will be of the part will be filled with some filleting wax and draft angles created so the B side of the mold will come off.
Tonight I will prep the part for the B side casting by doing what I said above and cleaning up the part a bit more with some light sanding. The inside of the cubby also needs a bead of wax which will prevent the mold material from leaking into the cubby and for another draft angle. If I haven't said this already, the mold will only be used for vacuum bagging and not doing compression molds at this point. https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
Still waiting on the pan. So... more mold work. Cleaned up the garage and prepared the area. Waxed the mold and also filled areas with wax to avoid having the mold lock by having draft angles.
Here's information that I didn't really read: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics...ng/draft-angle https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://sat02pap003files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none |
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