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Rear subframe bushings are not my favorite. I've had a hell of a time getting a single bushing in. I've done: Lube, dry ice, tap w/ hammer, metal plate kits, bolts, nuts, clamps and rods.
sounds like weird porn. What I've found to work best for my situation is dry ice freezing the bushing, Teflon grease, grade 8 bolt/nut, and a harbor freight Front Wheel Drive Bearing Remover/Installer. The bolt is too large so I ordered a grade 8 - 10 bolt 3/4 8" long. I'm still waiting on the bolt but I can show you grade 5 vs a Milwaukee Fuel 18v I didn't read Rusty's entire thread... shame on me. I started to install the bushing with an arbor press upside down. Thank baby jesus that didn't work. Last thing to point out... I'm going to lube all the contact surfaces of the bolt/washers and I'm going to grind out the barrel so that there's no powder coat inside. The tolerances are REALLY tight. On Black Friday I ordered Motion Raceworks Billet valve covers... because the Holley Sniper covers sucked. I had a bit of luck because the car gods decided it was time for a bit of luck for me. I won the Motion Raceworks giveaway! See video and you'll get to hear my goofy *** on the Shake and Bake live podcast. Lyle Barnett sent me a text telling me to get on the show. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...z3w&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...EME&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...cQ&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...M8&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Ek&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...OuM&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...sQ&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...f1I&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...-U8&width=1024 |
Dont tell my work that I spent the past 2 hours following this whole build thread...
Miss the old build thread days. I could stare at those engine bay photos all day long, I love the custom fabrication work. |
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that's awesome. This thread has had some serious ups and downs. I really don't hold back on the fukc-ups....although, I wish I didn't fukc up so much.:wtf2: |
The quick and dirty steps of doing the install. It's actually easy if you do these steps.
1. Sand the barrel out to metal with an 80 grit flapper. 2. Teflon grease the bore. 3. Freeze the bushings with dry ice. 4. Use a 3/4-10 grade 8 bolt 8" (if it has all thread). Or two bolts, 6" and 8", from farm and fleet. 4 washers and two nuts. 5. Maddox Front Wheel drive bearing install/remover from Harbor Freight. This provides the clamping surface. The powder coating was thick. Not surprised why it was so hard previously. The grade 8 bolt, dry ice, grease, metal plates to clamp and sanding was the key. I would have paid Sikky 150 to press it because I spent more than that. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...aA&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...CiE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Lio&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...rRI&width=1024 |
Looks like I'm pumping the brakes on my build for a few months. Don't expect much of anything to get done because I have a college class coming up in a few weeks on 1/15. Which also means I pulled my registration for Sick Week since everything is moving at a snails pace.
The last components to my exterior showed up from NextLevel Performance. The hood looks amazing. The bumper has a lot going on but I think my car could use a little spice back there. I spoke with Baker Engineering and my engine should be completed by mid February. That's fine. Like I said, I'm busy. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...TOE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...SME&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...NaE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...4OY&width=1024 |
Looking good!
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Varis is soooooooo good :bowdown:
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Those are nice parts! Looking forward to seeing it completed!
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love this build. Did you ever get the custom cubby holder scanned for printing? I have a 8in touch screen connected to a Pi but struggling to get it looking neat and tidy
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On a different note. Many updates are coming soon. Short block, transmission, ECU, and TCM have all been fully serviced. Wrapping up a final exam on 3/11 and then I'll make a few more posts. |
I'm always up for a good side adventure. Raymond Barr made a request on FB asking if anyone could skin some v2 inserts. Well, I have a few rolls of carbon and some epoxy so I gave it a shot. End results turned out pretty great. I'm going to make a couple sets and sell them, not many. I did the skinning as a mental break from studying for my previous class.
As mentioned before, I have my engine, transmission, subframe, electronics, injectors, and a pile of parts in my basement. I'm getting rolling with my steering rack. since the engine is out. While I was working on the steering rack I noticed that my engine bay had lots of paint chipped and missing. Probably going to need a re-spray. I'm just going to hit it with steel-it since that stuff is so durable. Taking out the steering rack showed me that there was swamp left. Which is wild... I spent a day power washing the car. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...sfM&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ydA&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...JFU&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...txc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Oc&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...dw&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...0Ww&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...bE&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...YTQ&width=1024 |
Awesome job, they came out great
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Cool video too. Looks good!
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Howdy all. Weather is starting to break way to fair weather in MI so I can actually work on the car. I honestly don't have it in me to work on the car if it is not nice out. Well... it had to be nice for my last task.
I dropped the kmember so that I could scuff and repaint the entire engine bay with steel-it. There were a lot of scuffs that went into the metal of the car from all the work on the car previously, the paint I used last time was too soft. The engine bay was scuffed and wiped down with acetone. It takes 4-6 cans depending on how many coats you want to do on your car. I'm doing 6 because I have a few areas I want to go back over. It's really nice to have a pristine engine bay again. All the swamp bits were cleaned and blown out. It really put some wind back in my sails. While the kmember is out I'm going to put in the steering rack and SPL tie rod ends. If anyone has pointers for the SPL outer tie rods, I'm all ears. I've decided to change my accessory drive to a single mid mount alt and remove my power steering pump out of the equation and switch to an MA motor sports packaged electric pump. I'm not sure where I'm mounting that just yet, but the engine is out and I know where everything fit previously so I'm sure the mounting task will be much easier. A decision was also made to run electric AC at some point. Everything is running off the electrical system so I had to find a billy bad azz alt, which I did. The previous alternator location locked me into a small frame alt which could only produce 150amps. Part of the decision to change the location of the alt was so I could in fact run a large alt. I decided to go with a 400amp Mechman. This should take care of all the demand. A consideration was taken into account for high rpm of the engine so the diameter of the alt wheel was increased to pair with my -10% underdrive balancer. That's a big deal, because I can't have the alt burn out from over spinning. Last reason I wanted the alt moved was to get it away from the turbo up pipes. That's a pretty simple reason. Heat kills everything. Other misc parts news.... hmmm.... I ordered a new W brace from GK Tech because my OE was bent from trying to grind a curb like a skate board. My transmission has been fully serviced and is ready for action. In true F-Up fashion, I attempted to drill the plenum holes on my machined heads from M6 to M8. It went like sh!t. The machined heads were swapped with a non machined set of 243 heads (same casting) and are off to get machined again. You might ask, why didn't you have the machine shop tap for M8? well, I tried but they were drilled previously and didn't want to attempt the correction. They had already started on my heads so I was committed to that job. That being said, I am getting a new set machined, transferred spring components, valves. BUT... BTR is coming out with a thick deck big block like heads (valves canted to a different degree) that are meant for boost and flows a lot. I'm on the call back list when they come out in 4th quarter 2024 or maybe even early 2025. In-between all that, I've still been making a few carbon inserts for the Nismo v2 Front Fascia. I'm about done with the small run. I feel confident in telling you that the inserts were just carbon fiber practice and I am going to make a front end air box for my car and then duct the air out through the center of the Varis Kamikaze.... which means I am going to cut a 3,500 hood. I'll be sure to get that on video. lol Links to all the things I mentioned that I purchased: https://ma-motorsports.com/products/...ering-pump-kit https://us.gktech.com/products/z34x-wbrc-placeholder https://www.mechman.com/alternators/...4-18-gm-truck/ https://mkcustomz.com/ols/products/l...lancer-spacing https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...U7w&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...5Q8&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...TcA&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi..._os&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ke8&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ExY&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Ieg&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...fH8&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...5DU&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...vc&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...G8&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...L5Q&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...mU&height=1024 |
I ended up breaking down the k-member completely and painting it with Steel-it. I was at a cross roads whether or not to install SPL lower control arm bushings so I put a general post out to FB in a few groups. BTW Tuning reached out to me and had new loaded lower control arms with SPL bushings that he wanted to offload. SO... I took him up on that offer. I've got to say, that I didn't want to paint the subframe but it looks damn good now. I painted the pieces that connect the steering rack "gray" but it looks titanium.
During the break down of the subframe I noticed that the Whiteline swaybar was bent on then end. The SPL endlink bolt that I took out of the sway bar also had significant damage, which I had already ordered new Z1 endlinks. SO.... I went ahead and ordered a new Hotchkis sway. Everything else is new... why not. I broke down the calipers so that the rear get completed and that the fronts get re-done. From there, I knocked out all the studs on the wheel hubs and put in ARP extended studs because the OE length didn't have enough thread engagement on the open ended Nismo lugs. I was in the painting mood so I added a dusting on the ends of the ARP to remove the gold color. Powder coater dude said that the calipers would be done next month. That's fine. I can still put the front wheels on with out having calipers to roll the car if needed. I also ordered brake rebuild kits from Rock Auto. It FINALLY feels like things are moving in the right direction. I've been waking up early in the morning before work trying to put in some car work. Both Sat and Sun were dedicated to breaking everything down and painted. Lot's of movement in a few days. That steering rack should make it back in this coming weekend. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ShQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...G0w&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Ls&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...es0&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...9rc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...IsU&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...KPE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...0vA&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...S8&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...QGM&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...8y4&width=1024 |
All the pics on IG of the coated metals is making me want to rip apart the entire underside of the car. The surface rust on alot of the areas has already been bugging the heck out of me.
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I have some pictures to post of the subframe going back together. It REALLY looks great. The best part about it, if you scratch it and it happens to come off... just give it a quick spray. |
Thread is alive! Glad to see you have things going in the right direction. We all look forward to seeing this thing looking good and ripping tread.
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Sunday was a marathon getting the k-member back to the car. All the small hardware bits needed to go back on the knuckle and the brake lines had to be oriented correctly. I have Alldata now for the technical specification, because I've been using it for torque specs, so that was really helpful. That being said, I had to put the shock and FUCA on in a specific order because of interference issues. Pictures make it look like it took 5min, not 6-7hrs I was messing with everything.
That being said, it's looks and feels like I'm assembling a new car (because it is). I didn't have that same feeling last time I was going through everything. The SPL end link bolts were bent pretty bad, and I'm pretty happy about that (seriously). Energy was transferred from the driver's side 2 piece rotor getting sheered off into the hub to end link, and then sway bar. All those items were replaced. I had some light damage on the brake cooler due to the wheel hub or 2 piece rotor. A hammer and vice grips were to get that right. Ghostvette suggested that I chase some of the threads so I sprang for a Chinese thread chase kit. Normally when I decide that I want to chase a thread, I'm missing the kit. It's nice having that option now because I used it a whole bunch already!. The real MVP of this weekend was my lift cart. I first had to remove the 4L80e that was sitting on it myself, SUPER heavy. Then I wheeled right over to the subframe to lift it off to the car. SO EASY. Ya know... maybe I should load the engine, transmission, and k-member outside of the car... That might just happen vs using a picker. Good thing about having the k-member on currently is that I can get the front wheels on. After the rear subframe gets loaded, I can move the car into the garage. I really hate that the car is in my driveway covered. The neighborhood likely hates it worse. End result of all this work is looking REALLY good in person. Not sure if the pictures are doing the justice here. I think that the "gray" (looks titanium) looks really rad on the steering knuckles. I wasn't completely sold when spraying that part. Next up: Bend new hardlines for front and rear brake lines. Rear subframe removal/install. Then we can see what the drag wheels actually look like on. Edit - I push mowed the grass after 6-7hrs of doing the subframe... Slightly sore today. lol https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...vA&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...kYE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...RU&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...l4&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...GZo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...KKg&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...lLc&width=1024 I think I took the brake lines off and adjusted them after this picture. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...iw&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...7nM&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...E8w&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...pc8&width=1024 |
Small update
Removed the back bumper to get dirt, formerly swamp/mud, out of the rear bumper. I think this is the last known spot for debris on the exterior. The Last spot to look will be inside the doors and I think that will be 99% of the car cleaned. I took a moment to inspect the rear because the car went into the swamp rear first. It looks perfect! But, I wasn't really going crazy fast so I didn't expect there to be a smashed rear end. BUT... Nothing really shocks me with this car any more. I'm not use to opening up something and not being a can of worms. Well... I have to repair the trunk latch and trunk lid springs; however, that's fairly common issue. I FINALLY put the rear wheels on the car to see what it looks like. It really feels like my vision is starting to take shape. Removing the rear spacer has always been part of the plan so that's going to bring the wheel in 25mm. The rear was dropped out from under the car. Guess what I found... more swamp. lol. It wasn't bad compared to the other stuff. I need to start getting the arms off and pressing SPL bushings. I think I'm going to put the Sikky Subframe in the car despite not having it fully loaded. Garage space is premium. Having the whole unit loaded up gets pretty darn heavy for driveway work too. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...TdE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...zbs&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...7-Y&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi..._zU&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...JJ8&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ulM&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...0qc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...HY&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...5xc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...umk&width=1024 |
Looking sick!
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Dang! That's some meaty tires! :eek:
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Saturday I was going to bolt the Winters Quick Change, quickly, so I could get some more room in my garage. Wrong. Nothing quick about getting that diff in. The rear mount for the subframe bracing had to be removed because the back of the unit interfered, same for the top of the trunk. I want to say that I slid the diff in and out of the rear no less than 6-7 times. That was A LOT of work rolling under the car holding awkward positions cutting. I have to say that because the pictures show a straight line progression, and that wasn't the case. It was an all day grind that spilled into the next day.
On Sunday I put the skid plate on the car which was much easier... but I was sore from the previous day. Also, I didn't hook up the steering column to the rack so a few back steps were needed. Doing the task alone, I accidently didn't have the center lined up correctly so I had to drop the front k-member twice. The brake booster was going to be installed Sunday but I noticed brake fluid lifted the paint in a few areas. I had some gray Steel-it hanging in my crash cart so I decided to paint the booster gray (looks titanium). A new order was put in for both gray and black steel-it so I can spray it black if it looks like garbage. I'm happy with the progress this weekend... Lot of work... but happy in the end. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...21o&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...iU0&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...NhE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...sLI&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...hY&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...76I&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...a38&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...nsQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi..._-g&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...GMc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...G1w&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...W7s&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...yoc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Gog&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...CJI&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...YJY&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...wEA&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...g8&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...IA4&width=1024 |
Ok guys! I had a cool side quest I wanted to share. Someone contacted me on IG and wanted a carbon fiber emblem for their car. I felt like this was the perfect next step working with carbon fiber specifically for doing vacuum bagging techniques. The molding process was pretty smooth because I had already ran through that for my cubby mount. Less was more for the mold and I made the molds pretty small to make the bagging process better. The mold its self came out really great! I can f' up the carbon process and start over as many times as I want. Of which, I totally messed up my first bagging.
I have really top notch vacuum supplies and a 1,200 vacuum pump... but, I wanted to take a chance doing a cheaper method using a Food Saver. It looked like the vacuum process initially worked well because I had packed in chop strand carbon into the tight areas to prevent bridging. I attempted to do a wet layup combo with vacuum but it failed. The bag lost vacuum twice on the A side of the emblem which I think really did me in. That all being said, I am NOT mad one bit. As stated, the mold is beautiful and I can make more attempts. The weave laid down all whack due to the wet layup. I'll specifically need to do a vacuum infusion on this. Additionally I am going to use PVA (liquid plastic) inside the mold so that it releases a bit easier. FYI, I was working on a lot of this concurrent with other parts of my car. There's a lot of stop and go with-in this process. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...oo&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...EE&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...NU&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...4Pc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...1Y&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi..._k&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...JYo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...SI0&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...BUI&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi..._DU&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...hIY&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ikk&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...t7o&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...wrw&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...9Ks&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...UgE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...eY&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Wgs&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...zg&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...HBo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...QHo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...jns&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...-c&height=1024 |
Very cool
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Z update... kind of. I've been working on home stuff and the carbon stuff.
Breaking down the OE rear subframe so I can get SPL bushings in. I had the rear rotors turned because they were practically new previously. Much cheaper than buying new. I repainted the brake booster black because it looked like garbage gray. I bought a spray gun specifically for PVA (spray on plastic). A compression mold was completed with decent results. I didn't tamp down the material well enough and there was an air pocket in a bad spot, lame. I attempted a vacuum layup and it didn't go well. There's a couple spots that I needed to be done different: 1.) I laid the carbon in dry. I did that so the weave didn't move everywhere. However, the carbon didn't look completely wet. 2.) I was missing the release film. 3.) They had a great technique for laying sticky tape. Ill try that. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Uk&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...hV0&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...uQ&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...WCw&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...UY&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...azc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Yw&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ygo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...XVk&width=1024 |
This past week or so I cleaned up, scuffed, painted, removed old bushings, pressed new bushings, repainted the rear upper control arms and knuckles. Can't say the bushings were my favorite job. Getting the bushings out was REALLY tough until Rusty gave me a tip. Rusty suggested that I hole saw the bushings and slit the sleeve to get them out. After doing that they came out much easier.
Pressing the bushings didn't go great with my goliath clamp but made it work using the Goliath clamp for the upper control arms. I didn't even want to try doing that for the knuckles because that was dinging up the upper control arms. After a quick visit to Amazon, a puller kit was purchased to assist with the knuckles. That made life a lot easier. After all that work... I'm really happy with the results. Worth it. Over the weekend I put the brake booster back in and made a bracket for the line lock. Previously I had the line lock laying around in the car. I made use of the old mounting bracket position for the line lock which was originally for the clear view filter. I even used the access hole to install the bolts in the bottom side for the bracket. Last thought... I really hate rolling around under the dash putting in the brake booster. It was much easier with out the driver's seat. It's finally looking like a car again! Next up: Bend brake lines. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...6aE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...eI&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ZJQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...eMQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...1WE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...dM&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...juQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...m9o&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...dYQ&width=1024 |
The last piece of my exterior came in, Weber Sport front clip with carbon splitter. The front is REALLY open and aggressive. This will be perfectly fine because I plan on using all the bumper venting. The carbon work that you have been seeing me do is all leading towards an idea that has been rolling around in my head. I honestly don't care much about the Nissan emblem or carbon skinned inserts for cars; but, I wanted to work with carbon hands on so that I can create an airbox to the radiator and then vent out the center section of my Varis hood. This will vastly improve cooling and create downforce on the car... so I hope. The turbos will live in the left and right opened that will have a funnel directly to the turbos which will force the air into the turbos creating efficiency. Lastly, the side areas will have my exhaust firing out them. I'm thinking that I'll need to mock up some sort of triangle exhaust tip that will follow the similar lines as the bumper.
I decided to ditch the crash bar I made in favor of a Z1 crash bar that has a tow hook option. The 6 bolts/nuts that you see on the crash bar was 10 dollars. Apparently stainless steel hardware has gone up in price. not a lot to say about the crash bar other than it looks nice. Luckily, a buddy come over and give some perspective while I was going through a few problem areas. Previously I thought I had stripped one bolt out on the subframe bushings. He was able to pry down on the subframe while I zipped the driver's side front subframe nut out. From the SPL directions, I couldn't find Sikky subframe directions, stated that the metal plates are specifically used for spacers. Also, if you're deciding between Sikky and SPL... get SPL. Sikky has an area recessed which is what caused the nut to bottom. Tractor Supply Company has really great pricing for grade 8 hardware so I picked up a few washers to space out the nuts to prevent them bottoming out again. After the subframe was sorted, the knuckle and suspension components were roughed out. They're not completely on but it's certainly close to being fully attached so I can have a roller. The rear was supposed to be completely done this weekend, but it was damn hot out and work was extremely slow. Today I had to swing up to Auto Dynamix to get an understanding on how to assemble my IDS shocks. Someone had mentioned that a spring compressor was needed. Not the case. Dave (Auto Dynamix shop owner) assembled one shock in about 2min and then sent me on my way. Now that I have the shocks and suspension laid out (with hardware which required trips to the store), I'll put the axels in. This build actually feels like it's on the way back to being road worthy. I'm not really disassembling swamp riddled parts anymore. There's a few interior components that needs to be addressed... but not much. Perhaps the car will roll into the garage this weekend. I know my neighborhood will enjoy that. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Cwo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...w3c&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...KFc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...nBs&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...gSk&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...TvQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...70s&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...abA&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...q0A&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...iFw&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...upo&width=1024 |
Decided to knock out my brake lines yesterday. I was going to bend hard line but it to be a head ache to adapt from Japanese to Domestic thread pitches. The lay out I had previously was on the right track, everything was -3an line and I already had all the -3 conversions done. SO, I ran with it.
It doesn't look like much but I'm REALLY happy with the lines because packaging can get unruly. Rare earth magnets were used to keep the lines from flopping around. The -3an lines were changed to black rubber coated braided line so that they don't chew through the paint (like last time). Measuring out the lines was pretty straight forward. Sting was used and then measured so that I would have accurate length. Then after each run and measurement, I looked up to see if Lane Automotive (it's like Summit or Jegs) had the desired length in their pre-made section on their website.... then I made a few trips out to Lane Automotive... because it's plumbing and one trip is never enough. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...toE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...o3Q&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Hyo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Mrw&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...9ik&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...vgA&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...2o&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...c00&width=1024 |
Cut out a few Nissan emblems with a bandsaw and then used a belt sander to remove excess material. One emblem was scuffed up and it's looking pretty dang good. I need to test the emblem on my old bumper to see if it fits good. I may have to 3d scan the bumper later so I can have a small spot to test instead of having a bumper floating around my garage.
An excerpt from IG@gbrettin: Got one DSS axel in, not for a lack of effort. The supplied m10 x 1.5 bolts were too large. So, I grabbed the old axel and brought it to the hardware store to get the correct m10 x 1.25 bolts, they only had 3. Drove to the other hardware store on the other side of town to get the rest. After that, an attempt to thread the new bolts in was made... and they don't fit. Previously I purchased O'Reilly's stub axels that went into the new differential. I found out that the thread pitch was in freedom units instead of metric... Went back to the hardware store near me to get new 3/8-26 bolts and they only had 8, I needed 12. Nope, not running to the other side of town again �� that's a different day problem to get more bolts. ---- After the bolts were situated for the axel, I was able to get the IDS shock assembled and into the rear of the car. The alignment shop is likely going to hate me because I know the alignment is going to be whack. Upside... the bolts should be easy to work with because they're new. To sum it all up for the rear (another clip from IG): IDS drag shock installed that is 1000whp valved with all SPL spherical bushings and suspension components. 1400whp DSS axels paired with a Winters Quick Change that can handle 1500whp+. All the components have been paired to handle high whp in the name of safety. The cherry on top, it looks really bad ***. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...wfo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...2Sc&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...P6Y&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...H-I&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...s-E&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...H8&height=1024 |
Got the rear end together. It certainly needs a really good adjustment now. Happy to close this chapter. Calipers are coming back from powder coat tomorrow so I can immediately start re-building the calipers. After that I should be able to mount the rear wheels and get the car in the garage off jack stands!
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More progress!
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Turbo housings, front, and rear calipers came back from powder coat. I did a fresh rebuild on the calipers and got them mounted. After that I was able to get the wheels on the car so I officially have a roller again! My car is actually looking like a car again AND I can roll it back into the garage.... after I clean the garage a bit more.
It's nice having the puzzle pieces fit back together again. These pictures are over the last week. It certainly didn't happen in one day. This post is a little heavy on the pictures with the wheels on... BUT... It looks bad azz. The car really feels like it is something special again vs being a swamp creature. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ps&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...d7M&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...eSo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...JCg&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...JUE&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...J44&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...J8&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...4mI&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...gds&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...J7M&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...eXo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Pr4&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...wq0&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...6HE&width=1024 |
:tup:
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There was a recent Z meet at Madwai's place. In fact, most of the people that are still active on this form were likely there... lol Anyway... I was able to help my buddy Scott with a cross over pipe for his LS 370z turbo car. He was basically at the spot where he wanted to burn down his car because nothing goes as planned. Brother, I know this more than anyone. With that said, I was VERY happy to help. Although... I wish the AC was on in the garage. It was REALLY humid. Rusty was able to weld up the pipe after the pipe was fitted. There were some gaps, but nothing terrible. I've seen him weld way worse.
Progression is still moving forward on the carbon emblems. I used a file and sand paper to get excess carbon off. Then I was able to test the emblem on the rear bumper and I'm happy to say it fit with the correct curve. I then broke out the foil leaf and tried my hand at getting that laid into the "NISSAN" lettering. I've never worked with foil leaf but I can assure you getting the glue perfect is the key. I messed up one emblem and had to start over. Q-tips were used to put the glue in which made a mess. Incorrectly I assumed I could just rub off the foil/glue in the areas that had excess. Wrong. That just made a mess. I then changed to a tooth pick to dot glue in and that worked (poorly). Last attempt I used a stiff brush to paint the glue in. That worked perfectly, go figure using the correct tool for the job. Last picture shows a skim coat of epoxy over the foil and blemishes. I just need to sand the part so it's leveled out and then use automotive clear. Automotive clear sounds easy right? Well.... I've never mixed up clear to shoot out of a spray gun, so this should be interesting when I get to that this weekend. Update on the car... well.... I'm kind of in a holding pattern. I need the heads from the machine shop. Once I get that, I can assemble the long block and dump the engine/trans into the chassis. I'm not certain I can get that done over the next few months unfortunately. I have my last three classes due for my bachelor's degree and I'm going to focus on that mostly. My car will likely collect some dust with or with out the engine in the chassis until that is done. As much as I want this project done this year... It's not worth sacrificing work, school, family (most important). Updates will be slow. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...qo&height=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...rXo&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...VZ4&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi..._TM&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...41I&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...VqU&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...TSQ&width=1024 https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...Hig&width=1024 |
Trying to get one of the emblems out the door and it looks like it's in good shape now. The emblems were sanded out and then Nason 2 part clear was used with a Harbor Freight spray gun. The clear is close to 200 dollars, but I wasn't really happy with the 2 part spray cans because they were 35 bucks while offering very little UV protection. Using the spray gun is the long term solution because it appears I am going to need to do some parts for my car when the time comes. I'm planning on wrapping up the part today and tomorrow so that I can get the emblem out to the owner. I'm hoping he does a quick video blurb about what he thinks.
At this point, I'm really happy with the results so far. The carbon part is not perfect because it has very minor flaws. I don't necessarily like that... but I will not keep changing the mold to get a perfect replica either. I have technical fixes for most all the problem areas; with many being resolved during implementation. Other fixes would require a new casting of the mold to make things "easier". Seeking perfection is fantastic, and it hurts when it isn't, but that's not my ultimate goal with this project. That being said... I'm also not trying to make something so homegrown that it looks garbage on the car. The goal is to work with carbon to learn techniques while making something useful for someone/something. That's it. I feel like I've accomplished that here. I'm also open airing out my learning and fails here because it's quite valuable to learn from the failures in a productive way. Hopefully I can show the final product in a few days, but this is where I landed. Please feel free to ask any questions. First four pictures are the first coat of clear. Second to the last is an overview of what the prep looked like. Last picture is the second coat of clear. I need to wet sand and test fit the emblem one last time and then cut out some two sided tape for the back side. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...tus&width=1024 Rear Emblem close up, wet clear. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...SUs&width=1024 Front Emblem close up, wet clear. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...ULI&width=1024 First coat dried and shown... in the sun somewhat. Better view would be on my IG reel below. Including the picture if you don't want to go to IG https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...5n8&width=1024 Link to my IG (worth the view IMO): https://www.instagram.com/reel/C9c4t...RlODBiNWFlZA== Wet sanded and preparing for spray. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...YNs&width=1024 2nd coat of clear. I tried to get the glare of the sun on the emblem so you could see the clear on the part. I laid the clear thick, too thick if I were spraying a car panel. I wanted to have material to sand so I didn't sand through to the part. https://onedrive.live.com/embed?resi...2ds&width=1024 |
An add on from the previous post... I bought some Harbor Freight car dollies and stuffed my car in the garage. She's going to live there for a bit, but it will be easy to move when needed. I'll get the long block assembled when ever I get time in-between classes. Cars are fun... but it's more important to not overload with non essential tasks. I'm quite happy with just having a clean roller TBH. I suspect the next stop will be Jay's Wiring in Michigan during the winter months. Jay is a master at professional car wiring. I simply don't feel like mounting that challenge on the build.
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