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Anti starvation in the car.
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The mold has been poured, dried and I've been on the endless journey of sanding. This feels familiar.... Anyway. This mold looks to be really good. I'm getting close to having it done, but I need it to be perfect prior to completing the B side of the pour. Don't let the lack of pictures make you think that sanding this is easy because it's not. There's minimum of 40hrs of sanding shown and I'm using 60grit. The mold material is EXTREMLY dense. Actually, the mold is about 40lbs to give you an idea how dense it is.
Sharing what I have so you don't think I have abandoned the thread. I've been busy with work... and that kinda pays the bills so that takes priority. On a different note... The shop owners are ready to make my car leave. Over the next couple weeks I will be trying to get my car started. First start?!?!?!?! Yeah. Like I said, shop owners want it out, so do I! https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Put the plugs back in the car and put in the EGT sensors. All the plugs were gapped to .20 on the feeler gauge.
Ordered Lucas break-in oil so I can get the engine all primed up, thanks to Amazon Prime it should be here in a few days. The EGT sensors will be used to look for dead cylinders. I set the depth on the sensors to attempt to get similar readings... but the sensors them selves are fickle. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I'm getting the wiring roughed in. Yeah, it looks like a$$ right now but I intend on getting it working and thinning it out after. We were able to get the car to power up but I couldnt get farther than that because I didn't have the key fob or the start button in the car.
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Ran manifold reference lines for the BOV. I ran a direct line to each side of the plenum. I had the option to T the line but it didn't make much sense because it's cleaner the way I did it (I think). I also ran a 1/4 line into the cabin from the manifold to the ECU. Apparently the ECU has a direct port for MAP. I don't know if that's odd or a bonus. Probably a bonus because I don't have a sensor in the engine bay that needs to be wired and it's directly on the ECU (quicker processing on the back plane of the motherboard)
All the unused ports were blanked off on the BOV's and manifold. Actually, I need to pick up a few blanks for the manifold from the hardware store and also hook in the brake booster yet... Like I said, hardware store run. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Hooked the big fat daddy cables up to the battery, shut off and ECU up. I need to add ring terminals on two hot wires for the starter and alt.
Waiting on some Lucas break-in oil. I have 5 qts on hand... waiting for 6 more to show up. No, it will not take that much... but I have a sneaking suspicion I may need it, of which I hope I don't. I'll elaborate on that later if I need to. Ordered pre-made wiring from MS3 for my IGN1-A coil packs that will plug and play with my MS3 wiring harness. I now also have MS3 brackets for the coil packs because my Motion Raceworks brackets will not allow me to plug in wiring to 1 coil pack. The MS3 bracket will shift them down. Yay custom stuff! Glad I got them powder coated too! I found my key fobs which I thought were lost. Infact, I thought they were 100% lost so I got on the phone with Nissan for a quote for new fobs. They want 380 dollars. That dollar amount made me harder... found them. lol Now that my fob was available... I could test the BCM and how it functioned with out the ECU. Everything in the car works (that I care about). Power locks, windows, wipers, push to start using key fob, lights, turn signals, brakes... yeah. all the necessary stuff for reasonable creature comforts. It looks like my dash gave up on being one color. I'll https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Went in and re-did the manifold lines. The bottom ports were 1/2" ID so I used that as a balance tube and the brake booster line. This will keep the pressure equalized just incase the throttle bodies are not 100% exactly the same. Then the next step up is another T line for MAP, again I wanted the T because it can read the average of both sides of the manifold. After that there is a single line for the BOV on each side of the plenum.
I was smashing my hands in that tight space and doing hardware store runs for about 3-4hrs to complete that. Just offering some time perspective for that line installation. For some reason... I didn't hook up the alt and starter wires. There has to be a reason why I didn't do it while on the hoist... or atleast I hope so. Getting the Z on the hoist is not fun. Push it out of its spot. Move some shop cars. push it into the hoist spot. Put a jack under the front to lift so I can get the arms under the car. All that prior to lifting the car in the air. I opt'ed to roll on the dirty floor of the shop I have an order from MS3 coming today for new coil brackets and IGN1A connectors. The new brackets will lower the coil packs and the wiring is plug and play into the main ECU harness. It's the best aftermarket wiring kit on the market. I'm excited for it! https://www.diyautotune.com/product/...gm-ls-engines/ https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Busted butt getting the engine primed yesterday. Honestly, it was a pivotal moment to the path of near term success. The engine was extremally tight, to the point I needed a breaker bar to get the engine to turn over. My suspicion was that the engine had either spun a rod bearing OR that the engine was dry. Thankfully, it was just dry and pressurizing the whole system with oil made it smooth as butter. The engine was triple checked at every step of the way during engine assembly so I would have been crushed if it was something I missed.
After the engine was primed the engine was rolled over by the starter. The push to start, brake press, and key fob all work together like OEM with the MS3Pro standalone after a bit of wiring, VERY cool that it's working like that. Unfortunately I found out that the Braille battery is flat so I need a new battery. After pressurizing and rolling the system over we noticed some oil seeping from an oil return and a small pool under the car. I think that the small pool was from the oil filter because that wasn't even hand tight. As for the fitting.... I'm shocked that any of them would even leak because I put those on with beast strength... oh well. Guess I get to do it again. I REALLY hope that the oil cooler and accusump don't leak because that's under a rats nest. MS3Pro came through with REALLY fast shipping for the coil bracket and plug and play coil wiring. The new coil bracket location drops the coils down away from the throttle body so wiring was able to be plugged in. Bummer that I paid for the Motion Raceworks brackets and powder coated them... but the new billet brackets look REALLY nice. Last thought... I spilled 1qt minimum on the floor trying to fill the pressurizing tool... the inlet was small and then it burped oil all over. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I think this is the post everyone has been waiting for... thank you for watching and being patient all these years.
I have a few small oil leaks and gas leaks..... Because I made the lines. It's running none the less. We thinned out some of the OE wiring. There's a bit more to go; however, it's not barfing out over the fender anymore. I'd say about 40% was chopped out. The twin cable has also been hooked up on the throttle bodies too. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Congratulations, Greg! Had a big grin on my face when I started the vid, but nowhere near as big as the grin you had I'm sure!!
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Next up. Stop my ship from leaking, front brake lines, mount a gas pedal, finish wiring. And... I'm sure a ton of other stuff I forgot. I'm at the point where I need to make a list that has all the remaining items and start crossing them off. EDIT I'm REALLY happy that everyone got to see the entire LS swap process. Literally all the highs and lows are posted here. Good news for anyone else is that there are plenty of kits available now which wasn't a thing when I started. lol |
So happy for you man! Can't wait to check it out in person next month hopefully!
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I appreciate you being so candid with your progress. Can't wait to see it fire up :tiphat: |
Getting closer Greg. :tup:
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I checked youtube. It sounds awesome
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Continuation with the push to get the car done post. I forgot to put a bung on the X pipe for the IAT sensor... Well... TBH I didn't know it needed one there. I had to take the X pipe off, which is a PITA because it needs to be broke in a bit. Also, I had people ask why would I go through the efforts of all the pies? I tell them (LSX facebook pages) that the space is really tight. Taking a measuring tape out really highlights that.
Working with Dave (Auto Dynamix shop owner) we decided to get a Leash Electronics relay module to keep everything simple. "Simple" ... heh. Since I'm burning cash, it seemed like a great time to order a Tilton pedal and assembly to pull the twin throttle linkage (shown a few posts back... but I'll post the Lokar twin cable since I am referencing it.) I don't know if I have mentioned this or anyone asked... The drive by cable is a solution for MS3 because they don't have great support for drive by wire (I spoke to their engineer in 2018 at PRI) Things may have changed since? But this is where I'm at with it and it's not changing. I'm kind of bummed about removing the floor mount drive by wire because that's one of the things I liked the most about the car. Oh well. small sacrifice. -Edit.. I did more wiring last night too. No pictures. Nothing picture worthy about putting ring terminals and such. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
My ship has leaks! I ended up fixing three leaks on the fuel system and 4 oil system. Two of the oil leaks were super easy... Apparently the pan's NPT fitting needed a lot more pressure . AN line had to be taken apart and clipped with a hose cutter to make them flush, previously I used a angle grinder which accounts for those leaks. The PTFE lines... I just gave those Zeus's beast arm on the fittings to cinch them down.
I expected some leaks, so this really wasn't bad. The PTFE lines and fittings from Hot Rod fuel hose are awesome. The aluminum used on the fittings are soft so if you mess up, use a new fitting... but they are cheap enough just to have extra on hand. I've seen a few shop builds use those PTFE fittings so I can recommend them if anyone is thinking about using them. Down the road, I might have all hydraulic clamped lines. we'll see. Brake pedal came in, Hopefully I can get it installed Saturday. Tonight I need to fix the belt wrap on my accessories... It's too close for comfort to the water pump and it will rub or throw belts (which will be a PITA to get back on). https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Added a idler pully on the Dirty Dingo mount near the bottom and re routed the belt, which only took four trips to NAPA. The belt system clears the electric pump and there's plenty of belt wrap now. Cinching the manual tension is also MUCH easier because when I apply ape strength to tension the belt I am ratcheting downward. That downward momentum applies pressure on the belt system. I want to point out that there's no off the shelf solution for an electric pump and f-body steering pump so this is a bespoke piece (free to copy for anyone that comes across this).
The X pipe had a bung welded in so I re-installed the X pipe with the RIFE IAT sensor. It seemed a little easier putting on this time. I looked over the shifter linkage and decided not to use the OEM transmission shifter with the 4L80e because I would have to make a reverse pivot to change the direction of the lever action. It was decided to make an Outlaw shifter work, which would require some customization inside the car to mount that. I made an aluminum plate that would use the OEM rubber boot (for the old shift linkage). I have to add the HVAC controls back into the car so I can see how close the shifter comes to that. A bit of modification will be required on the trim ring, which is fine. I'll likely get a nice micro suede boot for the area that has a hole after everything is said and done. That's my half baked plan anyway. At the end of the day, I filled the radiator with water. I forgot to add a block off on the head and it pissed water all over the floor. Block off was added to the head and then the system appeared to work awesome with the swirl pot! I had my hand over the fill and I could feel the system purge air and then it made suction. What a wild thing to see everything start to work! After the start-up I found oil leaks on the fittings for the sending line from the oil pan after an inspections. If anyone is thinking about a Clearview filter, do it. I can see line debris and metal bits on the screen from the engine starting to break in. I probably need to do 2-3 more heat cycles before I change the oil (about 30min of total run time). Then I'll change the oil and do fresh break-in oil for about 500mi. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I did a test fit of the Outlaw shifter, full back and forward, and it's really close... but it fits! I'll probably need to cut the trim ring later and then add some suede to cover up the base. Also, I'm going to stand the shifter up on some inserts about 1/4 -1/2" so that there will be better clearance yet and so that I can pull the red leaver on the shifter.
Yeah, so one of my threaded inserts were put on backwards because I was in a hurry.... I was scheduled to watch Dr. Strange that night. lol. Next steps.. drill a hole and run a cable for the shifter and run some cables for the electronics of the transmission. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I ran the transmission cable through the OEM boot and a hole that I drilled out (picture below). No other pictures, but there's a reason... On a scale of 1-10, I was at about a 2 last night. The main effort was just getting there. Basically I want to show that not every night is a good night... but something is better than nothing.
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OIL LINES... All the Fragola 45 degree fittings have a tendency to leak for some reason (with the exception of 2 or so). I decided to bite the bullet and buy XRP crimped lines. They are pretty much the flag ship when it comes to pressure lines. I had 4 lines that I wanted replaced which came out to be 520 dollars... yup, 4 lines. Two lines are 22", one 52" and one 60".
Leash electronics came in. This should be the last component for my electrical. One step forward, here is the two step back: The Tilton pedal doesnt work because it requires a whole assembly to hang the unit. I'm going to use a simple metal pedal at this point. Maybe down the road I will switch to an entire floor mount Tilton assembly. Bought a finger sander to speed up the process of sanding for my cubby mold, boy did that get down! Wish I started with that a long time ago. 40bucks on Amazon, well worth it. I can also hook my vacuum to the sander so I'm not blowing dust ALL over the garage. I had to revisit my shifter because it was too low, see the last post. So close... but not quite done. The linkage pushes up on the center console. Let me backup. I had to raise the unit to give it more clearance, both front and rear. Raised it with nylon collars which fixed one issue and made another This is why custom stuff sucks. �� Good news, I have a functional transmission.... Well.... I need to plug in the cable, which is next to the frame.... That's a different issue for a different day. I forgot to mention that I cleaned the wire hole up and hit it with a dimple die. Also... Forgot to put the grommet in... Or did I... Since I need the wiring through that hole. I will say that the height appears to be perfect. The red lever is now higher than the console slightly (perfect). I also have few hours into making the aluminum plate which works with the OEM rubber boot. Custom stuff... Gesh https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Waiting on a few parts so I did some sanding... I had to smooth the brain out with some IPA's to do this work. Finally have one corner flowing the way I like.:
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Just need to wrap up some of the rough areas near the legs and clean the angle back up. All the rough sanding about wrapped up. EDIT HERE: Doesn't look like much sanding but that's 4hrs of work between the two pictures (minimum).
-update on the car. I'm still waiting on my XRP lines. Need to see when I can get Dave to help with the last chunk of wiring. I have a new gas pedal that I plan on using at the shop. Only key ingredient here is getting to the shop and grind out the last few things. I'm glad it's going to be near 100deg this week! https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Your parachute handle is out for delivery
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My new parachute handle has arrived! Well, it's an e-brake handle that I will convert to a parachute handle down the road. Quality is top notch. Small things taken into consideration like the aluminum button has a nice knurl so that your thumb can grip the button easy. The finish is outstanding on all the aluminum parts. The Carbon fiber handle doesn't look like an afterthought and everything flows together. The colors are optional for all the aluminum pieces and boot. If the end result looks ugly then that's a you problem because all the parts are beautiful. You killed it Patrick! Thanks for the amazing part!
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Put on my oil lines and I have to say that the XRP lines are REALLY nice. I actually only put on the lines from the oil pan because 45's were on the turbo drains too. Turbo drain lines are getting sent back so they can have 45's and straights put on. I also decided to purchase one more line from them that connects between the filter and e85 sensor. Basically if the line leaks I am replacing it with XRP at this point. The lines are light and VERY flexible.
Transmission cabling has been pulled and plugged into the transmission. The Transmission Control Module (TCM) line can not plug into the transmission with out the brace coming off so that the transmission can sag a slight bit; but! the damn thing fits. The dimple die hole that I picked was JUST big enough to get the head of the cable through. All these small wins are huge... I'm use to doing sh1t 3-4 times due to the custom nature of the beast. The center console was clearance using a sawzall. A few posts back I mentioned that the cable was hitting the plastic portion. FIXED. hard to hit when the piece has been cut out. lol. The carbon trim bezel needs to be trimmed back because the handle hits when I select D1 (first gear). Gear selection doesn't hit out side of that, so If I use the D selection it will be fine to use. ... I now have a functional transmission. I also have a tune that has already been worked out for that specific transmission which was used in the Auto Dynamix drag car. They had it dialed in so that it could work street or track. Basically, plug and play! https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Have the mold roughed out how I want now. Next step is to hand sand it smooth and fill pits/sand marks with fiberglass.
Progress? Yes. Slow? Very. I'm doing this mold when ever I can't make it to the garage and have a bit of time. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Sanding sucks. I do not envy you with that task.
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Removed the OE pedal yesterday and successfully wedged myself in-between the seat and floor. That was fine if I didn't need to move around... BUT I decided to do the pedal after I do the wiring and brake lines due to that. While I was down there, like a fat sausage, I checked mount locations. It appears that the pedal will work!
Moving on to wiring... I extended the wire for the trans brake, extended wiring for the trans cooler, clipped in and extended wiring for the spal fan, made a couple wires for the leash board. Tested the fans (hit the power leads to the battery only) and both the trans cooler and A2W move a ton of air. It's actually going to sound like a jet in the rear of the car. lol. I was at my car for hours and only did that. Just not a fast day getting work done. 90+ in the shop doesn't help. I will say this... Looking at the Outlaw shifter and mounting of the rear coolers and pump, I am extremely happy how the work came out. I like where the wiring is heading with the Leash but I am 100% going to clean up the terminal. I hate how all the bulky wire is coming off of it. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Heat exchangers look nice and tucked up and nice gas pedal solution
Got a grommet for those 2 battery cables coming out that 1.5" hole? Not back seat modding I promise :icon17: I know you're not finished everything you have to do there. |
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Down the road... I'll clip the trans line wires and make that into a plug too. |
Took my car off the hoist and pushed it out so I could actually get in the car a bit more comfortable; although, the accommodations on the floor were not at all comfortable. I have somewhat broad shoulders and I consume all the available ground space which makes it difficult to operate a drill or secure the pedal correctly. Enough with the complaining...
The sound deadning material was peeled back off the wall a bit and I located a stud which was used to mount the material. An attempt was made to use an 8mm nut on it but upon further inspections I didn't like the idea of that. The stud wiggled back and forth on the wall until it gave way to a hole. I then used a step bit to drill out the hole, and actually made the hole a tad too large. I rolled the dice and was able to get the inserted thread to bite hard. That secured the bottom mount. Top mount was a bit easier because pedal was somewhat secured to mark a hole using a center punch. Drilled the hole just large enough for a bolt to come through on the back side. The base of the bolt has a square end so I think that will get yanked into the metal making a really large stud. Now that position of the pedal has been figured out I was able to see where to bring the cable through on the firewall. Turns out it needs to go ALL the way up on the firewall where the metal creases. Used a step bit to get another hole just large enough for the threads to poke through. The cable was shortened for the wire positioning. The cable/bar bell was attached to the pedal assembly and it needed to be bent out and shortened by 1" or so because the throw of the top of the pedal hit the car. ... SO, the pedal was removed by unclipping an E clip out of a tiny bar bell located under the dash near the top. I used a pick tool and ripped the E clip off actually. Now this likely sounds uncomfortable... because it is, and it was hot inside the garage, which made it even hotter inside the car (note to self - Buy a box fan and point it in the car) . The E clips were 30cents at the local hardware store so I bought an extra. Something tells me I will lose another one. Despite my hot boxed rage fest, I was able to snap a couple of pictures. I suspect someone will land here at some point trying to see how to install a drive by cable on a 370z. The pedal used is a Tin Soldiers Mustang Pedal: https://tinsoldierracecars.com/produ...without-switch Yeah, that's 220 bucks and I bent and hacked it up. lol The cable I'm using is technically a Lokar cable but a special twin cable system was released last year for my twin intake setup. If you buy a normal cable they are 100 bucks or so? So what does Holley/Lokar charge for a special production cable system? 350 bucks. https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...s/parts/860028 https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Had a few minutes of downtime and I'm waiting on some parts for my car... SOooooOOoo I sand. and sand and sand. The left side is nearly roughed in where I want. I think I came to the conclusion that I will only use the mold for vacuum bagging so I need the areas rounded out so I can pop the part out easier. I am still going to pour a B side of the mold so I can bond it to the A side. If you feel like I've posted this part a lot... Imagine sanding it for hours. lol
Picture of the work environment...Was wearing gym clothes, I get hot. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I made a trip out to Lane Automotive, basically it's Summit or Jegs with in driving distance of me. Nick (shop owner) and I came up with a list of -3 and fittings to take care of my brake issues. Crazy, we nailed down the correct length and fittings the first time... well, minus one -3 that was 12" too short. If anyone has done plumbing... you know this doesn't happen often.
When I get back to the shop, we (he did) laid out the -3 loosely to where they should go. The brake booster has two -3 fittings coming out of it. The front brakes have a single line that go into line lock. The line lock splits the line into two front brake lines. The rear works similar but has a T fitting that splits the fluid (no line lock for obvious reasons). The engine bay looks officially over ran at this point and needs clean up. Honestly, it's not THAT bad compared to VQ using every ounce of space. Ill tuck the lines so they are not hanging all over. I'm super happy about not bending brake lines too. I like the idea of replacing a -3 segment vs bending line. Well, I'll have hardline if I want to try doing something with that in the future. Also, a lot of the wiring can likely be thinned out still (later work). Not pretty... but here it is: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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