|
Quote:
"BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO" "HISSSSSssssSSSSSSSSSSSsssssssssssssssssssssssssss ss" |
Turbo blanket looks nice, sent Nicholas a few bucks for one. :tup:
|
is this build done yet?:yawn:
|
Quit dragging your feet. :shakes head:
|
Quote:
It's time to sh1t or get off the pot. This is where I'm at: |
I need a reducer for the two 1" lines returning from the A2W to the swirl pot. The two lines will reduce to a single 1" line. I have three 1" NPT bungs that will need to go into an aluminum box.
Before hitting the metal break with aluminum, I used heavy paper stock (picture frame board) to get the dimensions. The box will end up next to the passenger side headlight near the swirl pots. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Glad I made the paper box because the first one was too large. I mean, It would probably work but it just didn't need to be that large for the purpose I needed. So I made a new template. I changed the template to two separate halves and then took it out to the shop. I then remembered that I had bought nice square aluminum stock previously... That is great news! Because it's 90% done with no welds!
Someone on my IG had reached out to me and then informed me that the square stock would be really bad for the pump due to the dead spots in the corners. Looked up the information and sure enough, he was right. There would be a high likely hood of air bubbles being produced as well. Simple solution was to 45 the ends. Now to weld.... But first, the waste gates needed to be broke down because they need to be Cerakoted too. I talked to the Mr. Coating Dude and he said that my parts were due for coating Wednesday, and its the day before Wednesday when I broke them down. What that means is money was saved because all the coating is being done at once and secondly... there's a 3-4 week delay for the coating process because he is really backed up. Actually.... he is backed out WAY more now. Point being... I got lucky getting it in when I did. Pan on the transmission had to be dropped for the Lokar Transmission Dipstick. It was a pricey item to purchase for essentially a tube. However, upon installation I saw why. The quality of all of it was great! The dipstick comes with a transport plug that locks in it doesnt leak. When the transmission is back in the firewall mounted line can lock back in. First picture shows the transport plug and the second picture shows the line plugged into it. Build quality for the Waste Gate is top notch. The thing that surprised me was that the valve inside the gate is made out of inconel. The valve is quite heavy due to that BUT it will not melt down. I'll find a video of it. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
woooooooooohoooooo. Getting closer buddy!
|
Started the drain/fill procedure to get rid of the heavy crude from my tank. The tank was drained and then filled with ethanol. Ethanol should break down any of the sludge in the tank. The first fill already looks WAY better than before.
I have new stainless steel high flow filters for my pump. The old filters will not be used. A buddy of mine offered to help with some thermal protection for the alternator. He made a comment to someone on my FB that sums it up pretty well so I'm just going to copy and paste what he wrote: We make the exhaust for the current Ford GT. The muffler is completely wrapped in this material. The material is 0.2mm 321 stainless steel with a small dimple pattern for strength. Under the shield we use Unifrax 3mm thick thermal mat which reduces radiant temps up to 200*C. All the straps are 304SS BandIt straps applied with a pneumatic gun that tightens, locks it and trims the excess. This is a five hour hack job that came out pretty nice. This will work way better than a SS or Ti wrap. ------------------ So yeah, it's not perfect but it will suite my needs nicely. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
that's some nice looking creosote!
|
I guess I could say ceramic coat but this is the name brand Cerakote.
|
I know this post will not seem like a lot because there wasn't a lot of work done last night. BUT. sometimes that's just how it goes. I feel it's worth while showing not every night you can get a lot of work done when working on a project. Sometimes getting out there and doing SOMETHING is better than NOTHING.
Exhaust manifolds are on with BTR multi layer steel gaskets, firecore wires on and ARP exhaust manifold bolts (hey, good bolts need a mention). Take a look where the Lokar Oil dipstick ended up. The Lokar transmission dipstick needs to be mounted... but I need to find some threaded inserts for that so I can bolt it in. Exhaust manifold shielding will work absolutely beautiful. I have a couple lines that will run on the bottom side in proximity. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Flushed out the tank again. Looks like the bottom needs a slight scrub and then I'll be good.
Passenger side up pipe went on reasonable well. Driver's side has a tad too much heat shield and insulation. Looks like I will need to remove the belt and alternator before that goes on. Alternator will likely get touched by the ginder too. I took the opportunity to paint the BSI letters on the gates with white VHT paint. The paint dried for 24hrs. The gates were taped off and then hit with high temp clear. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Turbo Guard came in, only took 1 month. I'm surprised how well they match to the turbo's color.
The alternator was removed from the car so that the exhaust manifold could be attached to the up pipe. WAY easier that way. I'll need to see how much material I need to remove from the alt now... shouldn't be too much. I can probably blast the up pipe with a hammer too. The foil can be knocked in a bit. Waste gates are finalized on the car. Pushlocks will be used for reference lines from the turbo. Down the road I'll use compressed air on top of the dome so I can program some traction control. I triple checked that the fire rings were on the gates before I put them on. Fun fact... I lost one and I had to order a new one. Shipping sucked from Canada. lol https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Start that damn thing for fck sake! LMAO
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk |
Trust me, I want to.
|
Quote:
|
Off the heels of a month hiatus of my car, I'm back at it now. I had to buckled down and study for a GIAC GCFE test:
https://www.credly.com/badges/c43dd6...5-f76b17941d7f Which now brings me to my two week half days at work so that I can work on my car. 1st up. Fix the Lokar dipstick. I wasn't satisfied with the angle and how it was nearly on the manifold. Moving the dipstick into the first hole allowed for equal spacing and didn't cross over a plug. FINALLY I got around to dropping the tank. All in one day? Yup. I did have some help so that sped everything up massively. After the tank was on the ground, I shook the hell out of the tank and turned the clear fuel to milkshake (that smelled like a bad bar). A new low volume fuel pump was used to pump the ethanol into a 5 gal bucket about three times. After the fuel was out we wiped it out with a rag and brake cleaner. Today... Fuel pump goes in, fuel lines, fuel filter and tank back in... I hope. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Went to Lane Automotive, It's like Summit but a 40min drive, to get more fittings. I also picked up an Optima Red Top battery and an ICT billet hold down. Unfortunately They forgot to pick my battery hold down and I left with out double checking them loading the car. bummer.
I had to run through all the fittings like 10 times minimum in my head before heading out to Lane Automotive but I nailed it all down. I even found a trick -10orb to -8orb coupler that I can use to plumb in the dual -6 to -8. A bit of massaging was needed for the CJM fuel hat to make the -8 return work. If you check out JCHammond's build, he has crimped lines that flow like -8. Or something like that. It's far more impressive than my hood rat grinding solution. However, I needed to make what I have work. Lastly, I added some bad *** high flow mesh screens to the fuel pumps. I suspect that the tank can go back in tonight now that all the fittings are here. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
We only got around to putting the lines in yesterday. If the camera looks hazy... that's because I was sweating buckets.
Sending and return lines look good. I picked up a flex fuel sensor and loaded that into the Motion Raceworks billet sensor holder. I need to make a bracket for the Motion Raceworks holder and use some threaded inserts. A self tapper went into the ID f750 just to let it hang out while lines are getting ran, threaded inserts will be used there too. I'm very happy with the Hot Rod Fuel line and have zero issues recommending it so far... I'll check back with you after the fuel is flowing though. Heat shielding, charcoal canaster and exhaust mounting brackets found their way to the bin. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Went to the store and picked up a bunch of threaded fittings. I should have some -6 PTFE coming in today so I can get my transmission cooler rear mounted. I need to go back to the hardware store and pick up some aluminum stock to build brackets for both the trans cooler and Motion Raceworks ethanol sensor.
I put in all my pigtails on my IGN-1A coils and found out one coil is too close to the plenum. D1CKED OVER AGAIN by the twin plenum. I'll probably lower the coil and drill a new hole. Super happy I'll be drilling into the fresh powder coat... Put the alternator back on. I was able to hit the heat shielding in a bit with a hammer and then had just enough room to hang the alternator. It's so damn tight in there I needed to remove the waste gate, although I tried not to. The bottom bolt lines directly up with the waste gate. At this point, it appears almost everything has interference when I want to take things apart.... It's a big damn puzzle. In other news, I ordered rolls of cable so that I can rear mount the battery and take care of other electrical. Guess what 1/0 gauge copper is? not cheap. lol. Tinker Electronics 7" dash was ordered so that I can display any gauge I want. It eventually will be molded into the cubby. Last thing I want to say. The shop is incredible hot. My entire shirt is wet from sweat, it's miserable with the humidity. Outside has been 90deg so it's like 100 with 75% humidity. Doesn't look like this week will be much better. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Bolt the coil directly, using the screws that hold the bracket on? You would have to go longer screws.
|
Quote:
|
Made a mount for the Motion Raceworks Flex Sensor. Both the flex sensor and f750 filter were mounted. Both were positioned perfectly so that the lines join perfectly between each other.
The shop was still... hot AF... https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Guess what?!?!?! ANOTHER hot day, 100+ in the shop... I worked until I started to get a stomach ache from the heat.
I had to drop the tank because the transmission lines need to go over the top to get to the transmission. Also, old gas line was left on top that I needed to get out, a filter needed to be added to the air inlet to the tank and I had to cap a different vent. I started off with mounting the transmission cooler. I pretty much did the same process as I used for the flex fuel sensor. While everything was out in the trunk area, I decided to paint it with VHT Roll Cage paint. The area was first cleaned with paint prep and etching primer was used. The good news about the heat was that the paint was dry in about 5-10min. Downside... I stunk the shop up REALLY bad. I took a few extra photos of the under car so you can see how everything is flowing together (finally). The fittings on the fuel pump were slightly different than the earlier pictures too. When running custom line you want to be on the inner part of the tank . https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Well, I pretty much had a melt down last night and rage quit. All good now. I came to the realization that I'm too methodical and move at a snails pace to just throw my car together so I can have it ready for LS Fest next month. Moreover, I'd want to drive it. With that said... I'll continue to work like hell on it but just accept the fact it will be drivable next spring. I still think I can get the car to fire off and put around a bit by fall to work out kinks.... but I just need to be real with my work speed. I'm not fast and I will not work until 3-4am every night killing myself to get this going.
I am very happy with the fuel lines, trans lines, brackets/mounts and other things completed over the last HOT two weeks. As for last night, I started to tidy up the lines with zip ties and magnets. I'll get the magnets replaced with something else eventually. The magnets are NOT weak. They can hold 15lbs. For the tank, I added a filter to the tank's breather so I don't get dirt in the tank. I was going to cap the little vent next to it but JCHammond told me that goes to the filler neck. Then it dawned upon me that the vent is used to create pressure while filling the tank during fill ups so that the handle will automatically shut off because of the venturi effect... SO that is getting hooked back up. Food for thought, if anyone is going to run a rear mount cooler then you will need 20' (which I bought). It's the perfect amount. Last thought... Get some flush cut clippers if you cut zip ties. They are 2 dollars and make it so you don't cut yourself wide open on zipties. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Sometimes the hardest part of any project is accepting your personal limitations. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt. :tup:
The build is looking great, and while there might be minor issues to iron out once the car is running, you will be happy knowing you did it right and not just threw it together. |
:iagree:
If you were going to cut corners on this build you should have started doing it a long time ago :rofl2: |
I did more than this last night... but I didn't take pictures. lol Shocker right? I dropped the gas tank back down because two -6 lines will not go up and over the gas tank. bummer. The lines were re routed under and thankfully I had plenty of line.
The only picture I took was me painting under the gas tank. Was this needed? No. Will anyone see it. No. Did it make me happy. yeah. I've decided to paint under the car VHT Roll Cage black where ever I can. I'm not going to drop the sub frame for the because eventually the whole subframe will be taken out for a MA Motorsports Winters Quick Change subframe. I'll paint it then. So what Pictures did you miss? not a lot. I added zip ties to the transmission lines all the way back. After that I decided to put a threaded insert (10-24) in with plastic cable hold downs I found at the hardware store. Only one went in because Nick/Dave (shop owners) stole the battery for the drill so they could Sawzall a rough cut for a huge tub in on their twin turbo Yukon. Apparently they want long travel suspension and crazy large sand paddles on it. I'll grab some pictures later. In other news, I reached out to Jason Gale because I'm a big fan of his work with the pillar pods. I asked him if he could do something with the Tinker Electronics display incorporating that into the cubby. He sent me a photo of the EXACT design I was looking for. I think Canada should celebrate a day in his honour (used that spelling just for him). https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Tinker Electronics came in and the unit looks pretty good. I'm not in love with the 3D printed case but i've seen these units in action and they more than make up for it. Heck, maybe I'll CF wrap the case later. Later... yes later.
Took a measurement for the drive shaft, a whopping 41" 1/4. I happened to find someone on IG that makes custom drive shafts with the pinon plate machined so that I can bolt it right up. I noticed that the drive shaft joint hits my custom transmission bracket so it's about to get even more custom. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Mounted my Lokar dipstick to a factory bolt. For some reason my cable wouldn't go back in after I gave a quick test of pulling it out. It sounded like it was banging on the transmission... That's because it was. Lokar forgot to put a PTFE O ring inside the tube so I had to take out the dipstick from the transmission and then send the lower part back to them. At least the transmission did not have fluid.
I put the front bumper back on to get an idea how many pies I will need for that. Looks like a few like a like 4 sets of 90's to make it snake out (2 per side) and a couple 45 deg mandrel bends. I'm going to try avoiding snake zilla v2. A 3.5" custom made drive shaft has been ordered for the car today. It comes with the pinon flange so I should be able to bolt it right up. That is... after I modify the transmission mount. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Left Side: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Right Side: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Officially sent the Tinker Electronics off to Jason Gale. Can't wait to see what he makes. I have him creative freedom to do what ever he wants.
Took down the transmission lines and painted the underside VHT Roll Cage black. Eventually it will be all black. The transmission mount was removed and cut up. I used 1" aluminum box on the sides and added another going side to side. Should be plenty strong and now there's enough room for the 3.5" aluminum and the yolk. I'm getting the drive shaft from Drivetrain Industries if anyone is wondering: https://www.facebook.com/Drivetrain-...5676657558693/ I've got to say, for a 2009... the car is clean AF. Tinker Electronics off to Mr. Gale: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Pulled the MS3 wiring harness today. I need to lay out where the connectors go yet but this was plenty good for me today. It was a b1tch getting the wires through the grommet. I ended up putting electrical tape on the connectors and adding a touch of assembly lube to help it along. It looked like that grommet was birthing for a moment.
The grommet actually looks pretty good. BUT! I have a Maven Performance Dual Bulkhead milspec connector I will change everything out later. So I guess my car officially has a wiring harness now? https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
3 months later... my CSF A2W radiator came in. The little thing is pretty damn dope. It came with mounting brackets, spal fan and fittings. The mount location is perfect right next to the transmission cooler. It's nice having some space to mount stuff.
The MS3 wiring harness was laid into the location where they need to be. The wiring harness is incredible clean, I'm shocked. I honestly don't think I will change the main loom over to a milspec connector, I'll save that for add ons later. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Took a small break Fri-Sun and went to LS Fest. I had originally wanted my Z in the event and paid for my car to be inside the event... So I drove my Juke inside the event and parked inside the main event area.
I had a few take away ideas from checking out cars. It is completely apparent that I am a lunatic building my car. 95% of the people just slap their swapped car together if it's a swap. 4% are 100 thousand dollar big budget shop builds and the last 1% are lunatics. These stats are 100% made up from my perspective, specifically pertaining to swaps. There were a lot of ultra clean OE cars with tasteful mods; but, they were all domestics. Most domestics don't get me that excited. So now I am back to working on my stuff again, the endless struggle (might be a good car name). I plugged some of the harness. Injector plugs were gravy except for the back two plugs because they were flipped towards the inside. The plenum runners and the valve cover were so close! I honestly dodged a bullet on that one because they can't be turned toward the valve cover because the billet vent would be in the way which would mean I would have to get a different valve cover. I tried plugging in the crank sensor but that is behind the starter. I'll just bite the bullet and drop the starter. Might as well clock the starter further away from the engine while I'm at it. That should help with cooling. I was going to run my old Fast Intentions exhaust with vbands. Plumbing was too complex and the up pipes were remade which removed available room. That's the sacrifice. My Instagram has a really cool video of the car idling with a small rev. I tagged Tony Meyerson but I'm not too sure he likes the idea of his exhaust being modified. That's just a suspicion, maybe he didn't have time to see it. Soooooooooooooooo...... In true Greg fashion... I had an ADD moment and abruptly stopped messing with the wiring harness. I'll just write it off as time management because I wanted the rear mount heat exchanger mounted for the A2W setup. The brackets were rounded out and painted, no pictures of that. CSF provided bolts and clips for the fan to be secured. They sucked. Zip ties came in clutch for that. Sound clip of LS3 and Fast Intentions Exhaust: https://www.instagram.com/p/CTlAgIbHcwf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Pusher Fan Wiring https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Crank sensor hiding behind the starter. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Need to pull the wiring loom 2" further. Starter plug doesn't reach. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Cam sensor plug isn't the same. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Yes, this is crooked. I had to work with the room that was there, trunk metal not flat, grommet wiring and the transcooler. Main thing... It's there https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
|
Quote:
|
Quote:
|
I was out in the garage earlier in the week and did the smallest task(s). The starter was removed, clocked, plugged in the cam sensor and then put the starter back on. Simply removing the two bolts was the move vs fighting my hand on the back side of the starter.
The starter clocked out away from the block should help with heat a bit more. I originally had it sucked closer to the engine because of the full exhaust system, but as you saw that ended up on the white 370z. I'm also working on identifying a good mount location for my A2W pump. The cubby where the charcoal filter was, appears to be the best location so far. I have a handful of -16 fittings that I can use so it looks like I'm going to ride that Fragola train one more time... I want the Fragola hose because of the heat and abrasion resistance going to the back of the car. I have some brass fittings w/ plumbing clear hose just for the front of the car. I figured it would be nice to see what was happening for air bubbles and it was cheaper. The first picture of the pump shows it sitting on a package. if you look at the backside you will notice a black mount. The mount has a rubber isolator built in. Davies Craig recommends NOT hard mounting the unit because the electronics will fault out due to vibrations over time. Spoke with Lokar yesterday and they are going to send me a new lower unit. They didn't know why the crimp came out the first time. *shrug* I dunno either. I'm happy to get the new unit. Only downside with it is that I need to measure inside cable unit to the new lower piece because the upper and lower parts are matted pairs. I guess you will see more on that in the future. Two -6 45 PTFE line ends got lost in transit so I'm still waiting on finishing my transmission cooler lines. I bought two new ends because I went beast mode trying to get them off the old line. I got them off but I disfigured the fittings. I now see why PTFE can hold 10,000lbs of max pressure. Custom drive shaft should be done soon. Maybe. Who knows. Doesn't matter too much anyway. lol . I hope it comes with new ARP bolts. All-in-all, not a lot of movement but something is better than nothing. Not saying I'm going to do this... but I completely understand why people sell their builds when they get to the 90% mark. It's legitimately taxing. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
| All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:02 PM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2