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Trial and error. Welcome to the world of custom fabrication.
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I had a lot of additional ideas going through this process... but at at some point I had to commit to a direction. It's not perfect... but hey, I guess it has character? lol :rofl2: |
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It doesn't matter if you're running stereo wires, piping an oil cooler, or going full hard-on with an engine swap, doing anything 'custom' can and likely will be a gold-plated b*itch of an experience. Kudos for keeping on it!
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IG@gbrettin
Finished the crash bar, sort of. Added the last two gussets. Now I need to figure out the mount points for the radiator. Way easier than the crash bar. ---------- Same day - Not long later ---------- The bar wasn't strong up and down, but strong as heck laterally. So...Another GUSSET!!!!! WhhhhhOOOOOO.... Ok, NOW I'm done. Crash bar ready. That Maven mount looking good in the light too ----------------------------------------------- Ok, I added the the so call "final" gusset in (noted in first IG post) and thought it was definitely stronger, crazy strong laterally, but not strong enough up and down. I was going to ask my buddy Dave about it.... except he sauntered on over to the crash bar and attempted to lift the front of the car up. The car did not lift and the crash bar was just a frail bar at that given point. SOOOOOoooo....... I added vertical strength. After all this was done, Dave told me the shop is getting an order of chromoly and a really nice machine that bead rolls, break, shear, bends and copes bar stock. GD man!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! He's busy as sh1t with actual paying customers... so the likely hood of him bending a new crash bar, coping and TIG welding one is like 5%. I say 5% because it's a new toy and he may want to try it out. However, this now means I can make a legitimate strong airbox. On a different note... I had to to bug my dude about an oil pan. He said he will get on it this week. He typically sticks to his word so I'm not really worried. There's also a market he can sell the rear sump LS 370z pans too. Extra motivation? Maybe... SHoot... I need to tell him to put a bung right on the oil reservoir so that I can add a check valve and attach the Accusump direct to that. Might as well fill the oil right where it's needed. I also learned from when I put my Morosso pan on that the LS oil pickup tube has a weird design flaw. The engineers only have one bolt that bolts into the oil pump. Very odd. If the pickup tube is not fully seated into the oil pump then it could create an oil starvation issue. It's like drinking from a straw with a hole. ICT Billet has an LS oil pickup girdle for 25 bucks. Already threw the kitchen sink at the engine, so what's another part... right? https://nrjmma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nrjpma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nrjoma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nrjnma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhjuma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhjqma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhjrma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxjtma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxjvma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxjpma.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Bang-a-rang
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One of the cool characters was Rufio and when he did something perceived as cool, his crew would yell out "Bang-a-rang, Rufio". So a very nerdy version of "Super cool, man" from me to you. :tiphat: |
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Got a bit of shop time in last night. Mounted the turbos back on the Maven mounts. Then I put a TON of tape on the radiator, not trying to mar the chrome up.
Did a few trial and error placement stuff. I don't think the radiator will be too far off from where's at. The OE frame has a TON of mounting options. I'll use a Rivnut or bolt to an existing threaded hole if possible. The cold side looks like I can loop up under the headlight to the A2W coolers, but that might change after I fiddle with the coolers. I'm going to attempt to use the A2W cooler faces as part of the structure to direct air out. No sense in adding material if I don't have to. It was an easier night.. totally good with it. Not sure if I said this in a different post; but, I plan on using the carbon fiber ducts in front to funnel air into air boxes for the turbos. https://obifjg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obijjg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obidjg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obiejg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=nonehttps://obiljg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obimjg.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
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Better downforce: More surface area: Plus it looks clean. |
Wrapped up the crash bar video. ... video makes it seem way quicker than what this actually was.
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Picked up some steel and aluminum to get the mounting brackets around. I cut the Aluminum angle to length but need my buddy to TIG weld it.
First thing that was done was to trim the plastic on the radiator and tape it back off. As much as I love function, I want the parts to look good when this is all completed. The steel portion I was able to get done. A couple holes were drilled for the mounting location and inserted nuts into the steel stock and then welded them in place. To get the location, the steel stock was held at the mounting point and a marker was used to draw the whole location. I then used a center punch directly in the middle, drilled a pilot hole and then hogged to a larger hole. After I had the steel stock tacked onto the crash bar I needed to trim off the excess metal. The corners we poking directly into the bumper. The bumper is close to the radiator but doesn't hit. I should look into making a couple mounting points there to hold the nose of the Nismo bumper up better. A lot of older Nismo bumpers sag down a bit (not a lot). There's limited gap on the crash bar on each. The gap will be sealed off at some point, likely when I make an air box that joins up to the Nismo bumper. Excess heavy stock will be cut out and sheet metal will be used in place. When I posted all the pictures below in IG, the perspective was all messed up because the images get cut down. https://nhklgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkcgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkggq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkjgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkcgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkggq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obklgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkdgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkcgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkfgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkegq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkhgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkggq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Question. You going to install a bleed vent near the top of the radiator?
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That's the next leg, after the mounts. Haven't really got it all dialed in yet. |
Auto Dynamix is currently remodeling the building for a new show room. Currently, work is not being done on the car because I'm helping my buddy build the show room in my free time. Burn out set in on everyone so I found a few minutes to work on my car . Slackers!
Who am I fooling, I didn't want to work that hard on the shop... I stood around the car during some down time looking at how the cooling lines would run. I ended up mounting my Motion Raceworks overflow catch can. It had the option to be mounted with bolts... but I have a welder so I welded it. lol The Davis Craig was pump was going to be mounted on the drivers side but my buddy said it has to push on the cold side; however, I did get the specifics correct. The pump has to be lower than the radiator. Placing the pump lower will ensure that no air gets trapped and avoid cavitation. Flip side of that, the filler needs to be higher than the system to let all the air out (this was what Rusty was getting at in an earlier post). https://nrkggq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nrkjgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nrkigq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nrkkgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbkcgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbkfgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbkegq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbkhgq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
I had to edit the last post because it was not even readable. I rushed to get a post up... lol
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The catch can was mounted to mirror the overflow tank. My vision for the build is really taking hold now. Low mount accessories, chrome and black theme, and symmetry (as much as I can).
I have all the Fragola fittings coming for the coolant system and an in-line fill (already here). Unfortunately I forgot to order hose and fittings for the catch can. I should have enough to keep me busy anyway. Motion Raceworks is crazy fast with their shipments. https://oxkjlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxkklq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkrlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkslq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkplq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkqlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkmlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obkolq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Fragola fittings came in for the radiator. I had no idea how large -20 was until I saw it in person. -20 is 1.5" while -16 is 1.25". The size of the fittings and hose had me searching for ideas for a while on the best way to route the hose. I took a few pictures along the way thinking "AH this is how it's going to work." BUT... like plumbing, things change. I left in some of positioning photos just so you can see the process I used. Something I don't often mention are the trips to the hardware store so I threw in a picture.
The inline fill ended up working best using a -16 female coupler right off the water manifold. Word of advice for people messing with fittings, think plumbing (that's why I keeps referencing plumbing). Unions and couplers are available with AN lines. Also, all the AN flare fittings need to plug into ORB fittings. That may be helpful for someone because I saw people going from AN flare to NPT fittings which causes leaks. The picture with the pump facing up shows an ORB fitting (-20). I made a video on IG@gbrettin of how the plumbing routes. <- click to see With all that said, a bracket is needed to mount my Davis Craig water pump. This really took a lot more time than intended. The bracket came out great but I had to cut small pieces out, grind them down, weld them up, grind them down, reweld and then do a final grind. The placement in the one of the pictures below should get the pump to the lowest spot. As mentioned before, it's to prevent air being in the pump. Well crap... Doesn't look like I got pictures of the fittings. They are just on the parts or scattered around the car. https://nxkklq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxknlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxkqlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxkplq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxkrlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkklq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkjlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkmlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkllq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkolq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhknlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkslq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nhkrlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkklq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkjlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkmlq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orkllq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
You are are sure doing a good job of documenting everything just in case someone wants to follow you in doing stupid! They will still be stupid but well informed!!!!
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Also, I really hope someone can learn something from this. |
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Most LS swaps consist of a 500 dollar junkyard engine, gapped rings, cam and a turbo (maybe). If people want to make power, they grab the gen4 stuff. I could have done all that and made 800hp all day rear wheel. Heck, my buddy with the twin turbo G8 made over 1000whp doing the items I mentioned.
Personally, I don't want anything to do with the junkyard engine scene (although my block technically is). Heck, I think I would do the same lunatic build if it was a 2J, RB, VQ etc... overbuild to the moon. I literally did the same thing to a moped I rebuilt. When it was done, I tested it out. My 1984 QT50 that originally went 20mph went 65mph on a 65cc engine.... it was terrifying. The shocks were not upgraded and neither were the brakes (it's getting detuned). Point being, I feel like this is just what I do. Although, I'm attempting to make my car somewhat well rounded. Not sure if I mentioned this or not, but I will be using CO2 with my waste gates MS3 can be set up with CO2 to make the driving experience mild (gate springs at 3lbs) to wild by holding the dome closed on gates to build 40lbs (aka holy sh1t mode). I like the idea of a Corvette but I would never own one. I LOVE the way a 370z looks and I always find myself drooling over the bodylines, even to this day. The devalued state of the 370z, American muscle and experts that I can lean on for my build made it an easier choice. Short story... I'd be up to my eyeballs in any direction. |
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Part 1
Well. I made a bracket for the water pump. I've got to say, it was a real pain in the d1ck to make. It took about 12 hours of paper cutting, welding, grinding and painting to produce the bolt on portion to the car. I have the Part 2 pictures but the photos have not sync with my photo share for some reason. I'll post those later. Not entirely sure what to say other than it really was labor intensive to make an angled bracket. My buddy with the G8 said he used aluminum and bent the metal. Not sure I would recommend my method to anyone, although I like the result. Looks like I may have to swap the -20 straight connect on the pump to a 90 or possible a 180. The hose either needs to run at the top of the bar or at the bottom. I think I'm going to try getting the hose lined up at the base of the V on the radiator. I think I made up my mind while typing the last sentence out. That's not a great approach while buying 30 dollar connecters btw. There's two -16 connectors I haven't used and I groan every time I see them. I'll try to find a use for them later. https://oxiiuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oxijuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obiquq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obiruq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obiouq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obipuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obinuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obikuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obiluq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obijuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://obiiuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oriquq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oripuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://oriouq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://orikuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Part 2
I had to pick up some rubber isolators. A fella that I know, who also uses the same pump, informed me that the pump fails if it is hard mounted. Luckily, the hardware store was right on the way to the shop. Disaster averted. Davis Craig water pumps are not cheap. https://nbikuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbipuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbimuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbiouq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nbiquq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxijuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxiiuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxiluq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxikuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://nxinuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
75% of the coolant lines are ran. The entire routing changed due to the stubborn lines needing a large radius to make a bend with out using a fitting. The -16 180 was taken from the water pump and applied to the radiator for a test route. Turns out it worked perfect so I will need to purchase another -16 180.
One small hang-up is the routing of line near the cold side of the turbo. Not necessarily a hang-up. I just need a hose guide so they don't rub all over the cold side. I need a few hose guides all over. This might be a project for my buddy who has a 3d printer. I discovered a big deal last night. I grabbed the intercooler and started to position it near the radiator. Turns out that the coolant overflow and oil catch can encroach into valuable space used by the A2W IC. *sigh* What ever. I'll make room. I keep all options on the table. https://mxiquq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhiiuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhinuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mhipuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mximuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxinuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxiiuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://b57zlw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxiluq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://mxijuq.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://b57vlw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://b57ylw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://b57xlw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
You might be better off by making some of the lines hard piped.
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The -16 lines should be fine. But if not... MAN. I'm really happy you chimed in with that Rusty! :tiphat: I have 3 -16 straight connects that will come in handy! |
Oh, random update. I found out that the guy making my oil pan came out for additional measurements yesterday. He is fully engaged now! Super excited about having a rear sump oil pan. Most everyone uses front sump with LS swaps. I don't think a rear sump is even available for the 370.
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Ordered -10 hose, -10 orb, -10 straight connect. and -10 90deg connect for my oil catch can as well as the last fitting for the coolant system. ... 250 bucks later ... I should be able to complete the cooling system and the catch system. Luckly I only need a few bits for the fuel system and oil system, Fragola/Earls must own an empire!
Hopefully the fittings get here tomorrow... Although, I doubt it. I ended up going to Alro, metal company, to pick up aluminum tubing. Just incase I want to tack some aluminum AN bungs in and make some hard line. It doesn't look like I will. But.... Options, ya know. Things clearly change quickly. So what's next.... The radiator needs the lower mount. Previously, aluminum 1.5" angle was cut to length of the aluminum core support. Mounting holes need to be drilled and a riv-nut will be used on aluminum angle. Come to think of it, I could have used a riv-nut on the steel upper, but I was in weld mode and just tacked a nut into the steel. Aluminum 1.5" angle will be tacked on toe the lower aluminum core support. This might be my first experience into TIG welding aluminum. (prepare for a train wreck). yes, I will practice first on similar aluminum. Also, by buddy will be there to help. Below is the GIGANTIC -20 line. best spot is right under the plastic air duct on the bumper. Turns out there is enough room for it. I had to test fit and cut the tubing a few times. Let me tell you why... other than needing it to fit. 5' of -20 is 90 bucks. Let that sink in for a moment. SOooooOOooooo....... I was kicking my own *** after Rusty said "use some hard line". 4' of aluminum 1 3/4 was 7 dollars and a -20 weldable bung is 12 dollars. The more you know.... Please God, I hope someone reads this and uses this slice of information. https://b57ulw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://cj7blw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://cj7vlw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://cj7ylw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://cj7wlw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none https://cj7ulw.dm.files.1drv.com/y4m...&cropmode=none |
Tig welding aluminum. The weld area has to be clean. Wipe the area down with alcohol at least a half inch back. And then wire brush the chit out of the areas to be welded.
Which color banded tungsten you going to use? Need to form a nice round ball on the end of the tungsten. If I remember right. DC straight will do it. If it's a narrow bead. A taper tungsten with a flat point will work. At the end of the weld. Move the tungsten off center of the weld puddle to prevent the puddle center from getting a crack in it before you stop the arc. |
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10-4 on clean surface. |
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Get your arc started, and heat up the end of the rod by holding it just outside of the arc. Then you can dip the rod in. When you're good. The bead will look like dimes. :tup: Mine look like nickles. :shakes head: |
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