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I like that green apple. :icon14:
Good thing you took the block apart. |
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Yeah, I was bummed about breaking the engine down; but, it shouldn't take long to get it back together because I have all the parts this time around. |
Picked up my turbos, coil brackets, calipers and 2 piece rotor hats. All coating came out perfect. I ran out of steam last night to work on my car but I did fill in the Turbonetics text with black sharpie. I used a narrow sharpie that didn't fill everything that well. I then remembered I had a medium industrial sharpie (chemical and heat resistant) That filled in everything perfectly. I have some automotive clear that I will brush into the lettering later. Between the pictures of the block and the turbos... I'd say color matching went pretty well for my hack painting skills! lol
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Got excited and brought the turbos down to the shop just so I can see how the color worked on the car. I am very pleased with the results. The block had the tape removed and I started working over the deck with a razor to make sure it was perfectly clean.
The block and powder coat color appear to be close... good enough anyway. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Oooooooo! Looking fresh!
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I now have an engine assembled (ish). I still need my pushrods and my head drilled and tapped for steel inserts where the intake will go. I'll additionally put in studs so that I don't have to worry about alignment issues and stripping the aluminum head again. There's nothing too dramatic about the rebuild because I had all the screws and parts. Actually, that alone was an amazing feeling. Even better, I knew 99% of the process.
Really good news about the ring! I found the pack of rings at the shop from the last time I broke a ring. Also, the bottom oil ring was fairly easy to put on. More good news... The 10% underdrive gave enough clearance for the belt. Also, I was able to re-use my old belt. Perhaps I was gifted with a bit of luck because my bad luck with my calipers hit. I was obsessed with getting the akebono logo cleared into the caliper. I did a light scuff (very light) and then cleared over it with some high temp gloss. I tossed the caliper into the stove for 20min @ 200deg. The result of that was catastrophic to the "high temp vinyl". The vinyl separated from the glue and curled. An attempt was made to press down the vinyl and re-clear. Things went bad to worse. I ended up picking the vinyl out of the clear and then the caliper now has a blurry ghost of "akebono". At this point... I'm going to wet sand the clear and then not worry about even having the vinyl. Moral of the story... Have the vinyl baked into the clear. But... I question if that would even survive. Now... if anyone reading this happens to see my car in person, look for the Easter Egg of a F* - up. For what it was worth. The situation might have been fine if the clear was allowed to dry slowly. Oh well. I plan on murdering the rotors with heat. so there's no guarantee the vinyl wouldn't have been liquid under the clear. lol https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=nonehttps://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Ah lawrd. Here I come again, with another update.
I started working on caliper reassembly last night. Things were going pretty smooth until I found out I was shipped a 1 Front Caliper seal kit and 1 Rear Caliper seal kit. So.... I couldn't complete the rebuild. I suppose that's ok, because I was making a caliper reassembly video. Now I can review the footage to make sure it's not a complete dumpster fire. It's going to end up in the DIY section; of which, I will add the torque specs Rusty. I suppose I wont count off Ugga Duggas for everyone. Rusty - You asked if the seal kit comes with the caliper O-ring that goes in-between the halves. It does. The seal kit is complete, unless they send the wrong one. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Quick question, what are you using to hold tension on the belt?
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Caliper assembly completed. I didn't get many photos while I was doing the work this time around because I was busy making DIY assembly video. The end result looks pretty great (to me). The yellow/green works with the darker engine bay and blacked out wheel well.
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This video is longer but I think it turned out well.
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The heads... Wow. Anything to do with the plenum has been a Greek Tragedy. If you recall, sometime last year I stripped 5 of 10 bolts in the head. The plenum is a floppy donkey and hard to align on the head which caused me to strip the head.
Rusty had a great idea of to drill out the holes and insert steel inserts. I've decided to take it one step further and put studs in as well. This will never happen again and the studs will help tremendously putting on the plenum. The process has of getting the inserts in has been somewhat of a shi1t show. The holes had to be walked up bit sizes one at a time until I hit the final size specified for the threaded insert. After that, I tapped the hole and then put the insert in with some extra red loctite. This whole process is a butt clincher. Don't think that I wasn't nerved up doing this. The heads have been decked and also have seat work for the valves. The intake side has oversized valves to boot. The tap that came with the kit, 60 dollar kit..., broke off in the head due to a bad casting. That was worked out of the head and a bit of time. There is only one hole left that has a bolt broke off in it with a broken bit. I called in my machinist buddy to get that one out. I drew my line. One head is done and on. Head studs have been torqued down. I'm hoping to have the other head on real soon. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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Damn man! Way to hang in there!
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The broken tap could be a whole lot worse. You got off lucky. :tup: You never broke a #8-40 tap off in a piece of inconel. :eek:
You're making progress. Even tho it feels like you're taking 3 step backwards at time. |
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My machinist buddy brought a special bit to the shop and had the hole cleared up in about 5min. 100% worth having him do it. Time vs Skill trade off there. So all that means that I could put the head on and torque it down.
Next move was to put in studs. I cut the head off some bolts and then found out that 30mm was not nearly long enough. I hopped on Amazon and ordered 60mm. The extra length can easily be adjusted down into the head. I can patiently wait for that vs cutting off heads on bolts. One bolt disappear because the cutting disk had a small break and then shot into my chest and rolled off somewhere. I of course was wearing gloves, face shield and safety glasses which helped. Soooooooo, that may have influenced the decision too. lol After having the engine back together, it looks like the yellow/green on the block isn't overpowering for an accent color. More importantly, it IS an accent color not dominating the entire view. What do you guys think? Too much? Keep in mind I have one more yellow/green item going up top on the valve cover, the smart coil bracket. My vision is to get Varis Arising 2 side skirts and have a small section of that painted Yellow Green. Only a thin section on the image below. Yeah... I think about this stuff way too much. https://nextlevelperf.com/wp-content...370Z-Z34-9.jpg https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Threaded my 60mm studs in with a liberal application of Red Loctite. The intake is still a PITA but... less of one now. I ordered some 20mm threaded nuts because the little baby nuts are impossible to tighten down.
Parts have been put back on the engine. I did a quick inspection of the water pump and need to order some NPT to AN bungs for that. No biggie. Engine is looking pretty close to complete now. I'm moving parts back into the engine bay now, starting with the Clearview filter. Brake booster will need to be put back in along with the power steering line. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Put the brake booster and master cylinder back in it's home. Being under the dash with broad shoulders was a real treat with having cluster phobic issues. I was wedged in upside down under the dash with the door cracked open with extremely limited arm movements. I was pretty happy being done with that...
I then moved onto simpler pastures and put my coil pack mounts back on my valve covers. Shockingly, the powder coating is almost the same. I did the shade from memory blending paints. The accent color is the perfect amount, not too much. Yeah it's a loud color... but this whole thing is ridiculous so why not. I was about to put the engine in after I did my power steering cross over line but hit a snag. The Sikky line is not at all low profile for my needs; however, the line going to the PS pump looks top notch with AN lines and such. I reached out to the LS Z/G swap community and received a few suggestions from people. There's a guy in California that works on drift cars that is about to do a low mount option for the 370z. I told him to stop f*cking around and take my money so he is going to MAYBE have something made next week (as seen in the picture). I also talked to Bryan Settle and he said that I could have clocked my PS rack... You know, I could have used my Morosso pan if I knew that? 100% would have done that. I'm not doing that this late in the game. Pshhhh. Pshhhhhhhhh. PSHSHHHHSHS..... lol On a different note, I've ordered my Black Sheep Industries 45mm waste gates. They have been sold out since November. The owner reached out to me and told me they were in stock. I had to snap them up quick because I suspect they will go back out of stock in short order. The BSI. wastegates are really cool because they have a piston instead of a diaphragm and are pretty much bullet proof for my needs. I was going to use VS racing... but... that's made out of Chinesium and have had some pretty bad failures with people. I wanted the piece of mind. Last item. This one is a pretty big bomb. I was torn on what to exactly do with my rear diff and axels. I have my answer. I am a proud owner of a Winters Quick Change rear diff. This will address any gearing issues and breaking issues with my rear end. My specific Winters has ALL the bells and whistles for hardening. I fell into it. My buddy was going to use it for his sandrail but had to go a different direction. I put a message out to MA Motorsports about the rear subframe. I'm not going to get too excited about this because I can't use it until next year. I have other commitments with my car. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
A decision was made to put the engine in despite not having the PS crossover line. I figured it's going to work or... I have a lot more work in front of me. SO the engine went in... but the motor mounts are on backwards. :icon14::rolleyes:
I had a few people helping me and we all agreed to comeback the next day. :rofl2: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Engine pulled... Mounts fixed... Engine placed.
lol The accessory bracket had to come off just so I could put a 1" NPT block off on the water pump. A 1" NPT to -16 went into the top of the water pump fine but the fitting I ordered for the bottom doesn't work because the nut hits the sides of the housing. SO, Mezeire has a special 1"NPT to -16 long neck that has to be used for that. Guess I'll order that and a 90deg elbow (so that the coolant will be directed to the swirl pot) The steel threaded inserts for the aluminum head, stainless steel 60mm studs and 20mm nuts made life a little easier putting the plenum on... But it's still a PITA. A lot of the stuff made it back into the engine bay. Man, the colors look awesome in person. IG video that I thought was funny: https://www.instagram.com/p/CMx0N9Nn..._web_copy_link https://www.instagram.com/p/CMx3MO9H..._web_copy_link https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Ryobi fan club will worship you if they see the engine bay picture :tup:
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On a serious note, i am digging the loud color in small doses theme, showing restraint while standing out. :tup: |
Thanks cv129! Appreciate the feed back. That was 100% what I was going for. Having an idea and trying to translate that sometimes can go horrible wrong. I'm glad the color didn't get out of hand.
Another post with pictures. If it feels like I'm posting pictures everyday... that's about how often I am at the shop putting in the work. I'm trying to do what I can when I can. I figure, something is better than nothing. I put the lower air box on a couple days ago. It's two bolts that go into the frame. Very simple. Yesterday, I brought back the radiator from my house. The bottom of the radiator was drilled for a -16 line. That was keeps the path of the hose simple. To keep the aluminum shavings to a minimum, I tapped my shop vac really close to the hole I drilled. That worked beautiful. 99% of all the shavings were sucked up. I think something should be said about the simplicity of the radiator mounting. There's literally 4 bolts holding it down, 2 in the top crash bar and 2 at the bottom, with a bolt. Easy Easy just the way I planned it. Not that I'm trying to take the radiator out all the time... but ease of maintenance will be a good thing. I know I said it before but I actually got to experience the ease of putting it together instead of being mid fabrication. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I was on the fence about posting this... but it appears I must pull my engine one more time. The thrust bearing appears to be cocked up and not allowing the crank to spin easily. One step was missed when putting in the bearings: The main bolts needed to be snugged a little on main cap 3 (location of the thrust bearing) and then I needed to seat the bearing by tapping the crank back and forth. After that, I needed to do the same on 2,4 and then 1,5.
The only good news about this is that I can leave a lot of the engine intact. Heck, I think I can even leave the intake on (I hope so anyway.) The engine builder will be with me this next time because I'm 100% going to burn my car down if I need to pull the engine again. On a different note, my Meziere fitting came in for the water pump. All of the water pump stuff is ultra clean compared to where I first started. If you're thinking about making a crack about me pulling the engine again. Consider this. I was at the shop by myself for hours last night pulling the engine while dwelling on how I have to go in reverse again. I've taken time off of work so I can work with the engine builder today to make sure that this is the last time ( hopefully... but I'll do what ever is necessary.) Needless to say, I am a bit raw at this point. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those connectors look a TAD TOO SMALL.
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So not to be a Debbie Downer and leave everyone on a downer note from yesterday. I was able to get the engine apart and together very easily. I was going to drop the engine in last night but I decided to spend some time with the wife instead.
My pushrods finally came in. The shop likes to place large performance orders so I was waiting on a bunch of people to get their orders in. Now I can drop in the push rods and TQ them down to spec with the engine out! IG of the mains sat in: https://www.instagram.com/p/CNBAZAan..._web_copy_link https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Looks like I lumped a few pictures in with a different day above. Probably a good thing. When I turned the engine over one of the lifters slid up. Push rods were put into the engine, last component, and all of them went in but one. The plenum and head had to come off so that I could seat the lifter back in. After that, the push rods were added in.
So... that was fun... I also twisted one machine head off on the shaft mount rocker. I didn't even take a picture because I was so pissed off. I was completing the TQ specs on the bolts. 50in/lbs is not 50ft/lbs ... Yes I know the difference. I glanced at a sideways picture of the TQ specifications and only saw 50. I was already tired and irritated that the plenum and head was removed, then I started to rush. I even made the comment (in my head) "Gesh, that's a fck ton of TQ on a machine screw" ... Yeah, that's because it is. I talked to my BTR rep about my sob story and they are sending me a new hardened machine bolt, along with MLS exhaust gaskets I paid for. They sent the machine bolt for free. SO...... Either that bolt is coming out or I am going to run it as is. I'm NOT going to drill that out. The bolt that twisted in half was in a spot where it will have little to no effect. This build has been completely transparent. I hope that is all the proof you need. Also, I can't stand stuff that goes sideways like that. I knew there was something wrong and I pushed forward. GYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA |
Looks like that guy Murphy has been around your car. Hate that motherfcker. :shakes head: I still get visits from him every once in a while. :shakes head: Wish someone would do a double tap/single on him.
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Looks like I'm back on track again. The machine screw only went into the shaft mount rocker and it snapped off with a little nub that I could grab with a pair of needle nose pliers. New machine screw should be here today.
After I averted that disaster I decided I needed a change of pace. I added some wax to my calipers specifically designed to keep brake dust down. I did a few coats through the night and it was super easy. Just my speed. Z1 two piece rotors have been in my Juke for a week so I figured I should take them out and get them on the car. The hats of the rotors were powder coated because they were looking rough. I will say this, the powder coating changed the bore size for the bolts just a tiny amount. A rubber mallet persuaded the bolts into their home. I used a dot of red loctite on all the bolts and TQ'ed them down to 9ft/lbs, the directions called for inch lbs so I just did a conversion. easy easy. With all that said... My engine should be going back in the car shortly. No other build items are needed on it. I won't say that the engine will not come out again but... This MIGHT be the last time it's out for a while. I talked to my buddy who is a fabricator/welder and he has agreed to help me next week with all the final welds for the turbo system. That alone should significantly speed up the finish work for the boost system. With that finished, I can move over to electrical/wiring. That's where I'm going to lean on Nick/Dave, owners of Auto Dynamix. The Carbotec pad is an AX6. The pad fits my driving style because it has CRAZY high initial TQ. Personally, I like resting my foot on the brake pedal and the car responds to that. I used them before and they make an unbelievable amount of brake dust. The brake coolers actually blow the dust from the wheel down the side of the car. Also, I was able to lock the brakes up on the highway going 90mph. You can guess what I saw out in the distance sitting in the middle of the median. The initial bite is no joke. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
One last thought. You might be wondering why I haven't touched my rear brakes.
In the future I plan on swapping them out to TBM brakes for the rears only. They are incredible strong and lightweight. https://www.tbmbrakes.com/product/mi...-factory-hubs/ Start at 4.47 |
Hmmmmmm wax job. :nutswinger:
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Since the rotor hats are powder coated, is there concern with them sticking to the wheels? I would think that under the heat of braking that the powder coat would gel and harden against the wheels once cooled off.
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