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Pulled from IG:
I can't really gather how happy I am to have my engine finished. It's built exactly how I wanted using quality parts. There's a lot of high dollar builds out there and I understand this isn't some billet bad *** master piece; but, this is special because it was built by me going through every nut and bolt (with some guidance from close friends). This is my first engine built. Clearly I'm not finished with my build but I finally have a green check in the right column. That means a lot to me. ✅ Nothing like dropping in the engine by yourself. On and off the he forklift a million times to make sure nothing gets hit! I've got to say, the Sikky power steering lines were really nice and made life easy. If anyone was curious about how far the LS sits back with LOJ motor mounts and F body accessories. Here you go. I modified the old core support to have a lower air shroud. Literally 2 bolts to take it on and off as one unit. I can also run the Zspeed under tray with this set-up too. Using factory mount points, my crash bar is held on with 2 bolts and 4 locking nuts. Crash bar also serves as turbo mounting (using @mavenperformance) and radiator mounting. 4 bolts to hold the radiator on. Back of the air box gains stiffness from the radiator. Water pump lines have been simplified. Lol okay like I'll need a 45deg -16 coming off the Meziere pump to bottom of the radiator. @independenteng moved the bung to the bottom side so minimal hose could be used. Small problem with my air shroud. Looks like an easy fix. Improvise, adapt and overcome. Almost have my lines wrapped up. 4 -10 lines will be mounted against the shock tower vertical. All this hose management is difficult to keep looking clean. #motionraceworks #fragola --------------- If any of this hose management looks trivial... It's really not. It's a PITA because there is no blue print to guarantee fit. I need to order up a couple more fittings but I think This is near the final stage of what the Oil, coolant and breather hoses need to be. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Keanu 'Whoa!'
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You have a small fortune in AN fittings and hoses.
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Getting closer to having the front end together. I need to have the transmission in so that the engine tilts forward a little bit. Look how damn close the water pump hot side fitting is right now! Again, transmission will tell the true placement. The X pipe will need some adjustment.
I posted the pictures below on FB. The response was VERY positive. I only had one comment of concern and that was over the X pipe. So yeah, I'm sure there are better engineered solutions; but, this is where I landed at for now. There's absolutely no concern about missing HP. I will literally turn the boost up another pound if I want more. The reality is... this engine will make WAY more power than the platform will handle. I talked to my engine builder buddy and he said something ridiculous about the components for my engine being able to handle 40lbs of boost and quoted 1500hp. That's bananas. The car will live most of it's life on gate pressure, 3-6lbs. I'll turn it up for special events. to achieve my goals such as 200mph in the half mile. A boost controller is in my future. Also, I need to build the rear end of my car before I can do that. This brings me to my latest score. Oh... I already said I have a Winters Quick Change... well. I have a picture of it now... doing nothing. The Winters Quick Change can take the power AND allow me to set the gearing to hit the 200mph goal. FYI, I'll have a cage put in before that attempt. My wife wants me alive for some reason. Man, the engine bay density has been why I've been sweating all the details. It's rewarding to see this FINALLY come together (close anyway). https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
It's a fuckin monster! :rock:
For the record, IMO you choose one of the worst accent colors possible to start with. However, it is done so tastefully that I actually really like it. Which I didn't think could be possible. Superbly done :tiphat: |
The big stuff is finishing up. Now the little stuff will keep you up at night thinking about it.
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Put the transmission in... most of the way. The engine needs to slide forward 1/4 inch. That should resolve most of the gapping issue on the intake once the engine is sitting in the proper place.
If it seems like I post a lot working on the car... I really do try getting out there a lot to get this thing done! If I don't do it, no one else will. The 4L80e is a HEAVY transmission but the 7AT that was in there is nearly as heavy. -Edit I plan on using foil tape on the edges of the airbox and radiator. I have a v2 for both the crash bar and radiator... but I'm not going to worry about that until later down the road. I need to use what I have. That's the problem with learning curves, you always find better ways of doing things when you're done. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
It would be a whole lot easier to modify the trans mount. Slot the holes that mount to the trans, use star type lock washers under the bolt heads. That way you can mount the crossmember to the frame, then tighten up the trans to the xmember. :twocents:
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If you are wondering why I didn't mark the mounts. I actually did... here comes the but... BUT.. I mounted the engine mounts on backwards previously. AFTER I mounted it on incorrectly, I put on additional thicker black marks while mounted incorrectly. :icon14: This is all learning and fabrication pains. I'm learning tolerances are not necessarily a bad thing. |
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You'll be an expert at LS swapping when this is done. :rofl2: |
IG@gbrettin
Transmission in and things have lined up significantly better. Still needs adjustment on the intake but we're doing great now! ------------ I used the biggest pry bar the shop had and slid the engine forward. lol. Thankfully it was only a 1/4 inch. I ordered -8 lines for fuel, Few more fittings, PS reservoir cap power steering cooler and parts to make my own PS cross over line. I tried to pay a guy to make me a cross over line but he kept jerking me around. Basically got to the point where I said... thanks but I'll make my own now. It's cheaper if I do it anyway. His loss. All the little stufff that doesn't get included in people's swap.... it's actually a lot. That's why I took the time to write down something simple as "PS reservoir cap". Speaking of that... I have a trick idea for the cap... I'll just show you guys when it's done though. Not large strides here... but they are steps in the right direction. A note here... The reason I update this log when ever I do work... Lots of stuff happens and If I don't stay on top of it I will get overwhelmed and simply not post here. That's just how I work. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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I guess I slacked on posting over the few days. I have been getting out to the shop and doing a couple things.
I ordered a Lokar dipstick, and assumed plug and play. WRONG. The damn thing does not fit and now I am trying to figure out what I can do. Might pawn this one off to the engineer. I have "ideas" what to do at this time. The cap I ordered was not the right cap. I fixed it. The dipstick was too long so I cut it. I added the power steering cooler. It fit in perfect. Only draw back was that I cut the Sikky line to fit the correct length into the PS pump. When I pulled the line off it didn't have enough length to meet the PS cooler. Easy fix. I just added the left over hose to the PS cooler and bought a 2 dollar barb that will join the line. Actually, That may even be the better solution so that I can drain the fluid lower if ever needed. The cross over line I ordered appears to be the correct length and the banjo bolts will likely work under the pan. This is a big issue for other swapped Z cars as well. If you guys remember, I ground down a couple holes in my exhaust manifolds. Well! that has been fixed and 8 EGT bungs have been added. My buddy is helping with the finalization of the hot and cold side. Some adjustments were done on the cold side upper but the lower side requires an additional pie on each side. He took the lowers to his shop to turn the aluminum smooth so that it doesn't look like a bag of azz holes. The exhaust flanges are off to Independent Engineering (my buddy who is helping fab) so that vbands will be welded on. He has a really nice shop for welding... instead of the plastic crate I set up for him in the picture. Jeff/Independent Engineering will swing out next weekend with revisions. I suspect he will need another week of additional time to get the waste gates welded, BOV welded (assuming they come this week) and other welding finalization items. Jeff will also be the man helping with an option for the oil dipstick (he just doesn't know it yet). Last picture is the wheel on my car... I thought it was funny because of all the work that has been done to the car, I still have OE wheels. I don't intend on upgrading them this year either. -Edit I have a picture of a digital caliper... that is the surface of the top on the PS cap. A titanium company, Titanium Works, said that they want to put "seen" titanium objects on my car. I don't know if that means they want to sponsor me or not. *shrug* . Anyway. surface of the cap.. yeah. I checked in with them to see if they had a titanium caps for GM. They didn't., but he said that they could make a titanium plate with a thin two sided tape. I said they are welcome to make something up for that spot. Might look kinda cool with something there. I dunno. I figured it's an option for them. We'll see. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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With great success I also have set backs. I'll lead off with that.
In true form how I have been doing things... I stripped more threads. I REALLY hate aluminum and steel threads now. I put 45 deg ends on the water line and I tried cheating it by not removing the air shroud. It put me at a weird angle and the Fragola threads cut the bung. The top of the pump was also threaded in first which caused the line to be tight. I know what caused it. Ill avoid (maybe) that in the future. The bung will be chopped off on the radiator and re welded. New bungs (yes multiple) are on their way. I informed the welder and he's way more cool than I am about it. I wanted to punch a hole through the radiator. Now onto the success. The cross over line for the notched oil pan was a success. This is seriously the win I needed yesterday. Infact, it's such a big deal it almost made the stripped bung less painful... almost. When I started this build there were no rear sump oil pan options. The notched pan was done to give clearance on to what we thought common bolt clearances would be. Worst case scenario, the pan would be fabbed more if the cross over didnt fit. Thankfully I found a thread on FB where the LSx Z/G community had the same issue with 350z. 20 dollars in parts later from their suggestions: 1' 4an brake line and 2 banjo bolts... IT WORKED! What a weird mix of win vs fail. I'm not going to dwell on the bad. Sh1t happens. Ill need to disassemble the front of my car coming up for this weekend because the hotside and cold side are going in. Hotside first (because the front will be tore down).. It's also time to pump the old fuel out as well. There's a funny story (not funny to me) that a shop hand at Auto Dynamix "helped" me with.... I'll save that story when I pump out the tank and show you pictures. Let's just say I about murdered someone... Side note. Has anyone gone through all the pictures on the OneDrive? How was the interface if you did? Last note. I am EXTREEMLY pleased with the flow of hoses now. The simplistic line is great. Also a PITA to get it to that point. Less is more and the dance of hose looks beautiful to me. Edit- Posting the YouTube video of the pan so you can see how much effort has gone into it to make it work. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Getting to the shop through the week was a bust. I got my 2nd covid shot and that oretty much gave be covid light and I was sick for a couple days.
Saturday was the main day I needed to be there. Met up with Jeff so that we could wrap up the Intake, that happened!. We were going to put BOV but shipping took a while and in true Murphy fashion they showed up at my house after I got back from the shop. Exhaust flanges are a wrap. vbands are on! there's 1/32 between the flange and the alternator but should double to 1/16 when tightened down. SUPER tight but it works. Now for some bitter sweet up turbo up pipe news. I've opted to go with fender dump exhaust for now due to space and will not be running the Fast Intentions Exhaust. This decision means that additional space is now available and no core support (which was there when I made the up pipes) has yielded space as well. I found two mandrel 45's in the shop and then we tested . Passenger side will need one pie at the exhaust flange while the driver side needs nothing. The clean path will reduce a TON of turbulence which means clean boost. There's also less welds so less chances of breaking from heating and cooling. Exhaust tubing will be far away from my tires now, which means I can change the OE steering knuckles out to voodoo or some other billet brand in the future. Most importantly, I can run wide tires with out worrying about hitting the exhaust. It's lame to put time/money into something and change... but i've come to accept that it simply needs to happen to achieve better results. Knowledge/Skill has a lot to do with this as well, I simply know more now and the final layout now known too. Not a lot of pictures because we were getting after it. After the pipes are completed, I will get them to the coater for Cerakote. Then I will send to a different company for another thermal wrap. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Looks like I have 1/32 in-between the edge of the vband and the alt. Ill need to grind the back corner a bit and then put in a metal heat shield. I'm not going to be down replacing a 400 alternator every year.
All the bolts are in on the transmission now. I just need to find bolts for the flexplate... or get new ones... Anyway... The BOV placement is going to be on the inside. There's not a lot of options really. They are going to be either slightly pulled back hidden or our where you can see them. Good news with the Lokar oil dipstick. I can adjust the cable on it. 100% useable. So yeah, not much in the way of movement. Next steps are pulling electrical and fuel. I didn't feel like doing either of those things last night. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Marked and drilled the holes last night. Looks like I'm committed now! It will get welded Saturday.
Next up. Fuel lines... Not even sure what to think about this part. The tank needs to be drained. I have new lines and SOME fittings. I need to buy more, but wont until I see the whole run. I'll start thinking about A2W lines and transmission cooler mounting at the same time. -Edit There was a lot of anxiety cutting the holes. A whole lot of time gone into it. THAT is why this part of the process has been spaced out. It's easier to think about it for a while and circle back. No need to rush to punch a hole. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Bolted down my Lokar oil stick and started looking at fuel lines. I also started stressing about oil pressure for the turbos and where to tie in. Turns out my ridiculous oil filter has a port built in for that already. I called clearview filters and ordered part "169". I looked online but couldn't find the same part, I figured it would be safe just to get it directly from clearview.
Another night of pondering and looking at stuff mostly. Last picture is a white LS swapped 370z in the shop for work. Wild to see another LS Z in the community. It's getting a whipple charger added to the 6.2l gen4. That thing is going to RIP! https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Swirl pot has a port for the steam vent now. Blow off valves welded on. Drivers side up pipe re-done to use space more efficiently. Don't need to worry about the tire hitting the up pipe now.
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Hooked up the steam vent and coolant catch. Swapped the coolant catch fitting to a brass straight barb fitting instead of using the push lock that came with it. When I went to Auto Zone to get the hose I got the good ol' "Year, Make and Model" even though I told them I needed to see their bulk hose. They were pretty insistent so I gave them the year make model. They went cross eyed and got the manager quick.
I forgot to test the whole setup to see how intake fit under the bumper after the finish welding. Everything fits! I brought one OE fender to the shop to see what the gigantic vent looks like. It's gigantic and it makes my OE wheels look like garbage. The turbo sits nicely in the bumper but it looks like I will need to run a Turbo Guard until I can fabricate air boxes with filters in the nose. I took some measurements for the pressure and drain side of the turbos. I'm torn on making a oil catch and then pump the oil into the pan or to just plumb direct to the Turbowerx. ... I'm leaning towards plumbing directly to the TurboWerx. Less is more at this point. At this point I wanted the car done to drive to Zdayz (again). But you know... build problems, skill and finances really can put a damper on that. Summer tires were purchased for the Juke so I can enjoy a few days at Fontana, NC and then cut over to Zdayz later in the week. SWAPS ARE CHEAP and EASY...:wtf2: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Looks like Ye Ol' Claped Out has the same issue as I do. 3:24 in he goes over having an oil collector. Mr. Logan has a similar setup as I do. |
Ran the oil pressure lines and almost had it perfect. I ordered two 12" lines, one with two straight ends and the other with one straight/90. Two straight/90 lines would have been perfect. It's amazing what a difference hose ends make on cable direction. Thankfully the cost is pretty reasonable for 12" line so I ordered another one. The pressure side will be nice and tidy.
With the topic of oil at hand... I needed a mount location for my Turbowerx pump. My AC took a turn for the worst last year... so I salvaged the bracket and took it to hack town. I'm going to attempt to use the AC bracket with the Turbowerx and mount it to my engine. I had to stop last night because the bolts I had were too long and I wasn't happy with random shop bolts for the Turbowerx. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Went to the hardware store and then got the bright idea to counter sink the mounting bolts. That allowed me to mount the pump up a bit higher and to have more surface area on the pump to be on the bracket. I'm going to need to pick up a fender washer because the rubber isolator is pulling in a bit. There's a collar on the inside that I thought would prevent it... but I guess not.
The mount is nice and low so I can keep the CG down low. The pump will pull from an oil collector (yet to be made) directly in front of the pump. The pump will then put oil back into the pan's -16 line. Hind site, I wish that was -8 but the best I can do is reduce to -10. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I was hung up last night on using huge square aluminum stock I picked up for an oil collector. After chatting with a buddy, we landed on using round stock. -10 bungs will be welded to both ends and the center will have a -10 which points downward. The entire collector is about 2' long with the hole directly in the middle.
After the length of the oil collector was figured out I could cut my oil drains. Looks like I bought enough -10 hose to wrap up the collector to the scavenger. Not sure I will have enough from scavenger to pan. We'll see. I'm going to put an inline oil filter to the scavenger pump. Well, because I don't trust the oil coming out of the turbo and then going through an expensive pump and then going into my expensive engine. I probably should also hook a gauge post pump so I can see flow or if the pump stops working. Hmmm. Turbowerx link: http://www.turbowerx.com/page8/page9/page9.html https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Just make sure there is a slight downhill to the pickup point. :tup:
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I was thinking about putting a slight bend on the aluminum. But, the scavenger pump will produce a vacuum in the pipe so it should be good no matter what.
Scavenger pump failure will screw me no matter what. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
Hi - did you just connect the SPAL fan to the OEM fan control module?
Do you know if the SPAL fan can just be connected to the OEM fan control module? |
Been on vacation (still am). I haven't hooked the fan up but it will be hooked into my MS3 stand alone.
Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk |
Well kids, it's been a long haul but the Hot and Cold side fabrication has been completed. All oil lines have been completed (lied, I need to hook one up). All lines have been cleaned. Coolant lines have been completed. Scavenger pump w/ lines completed.
Everything has been put together as it needs to be... So what does that mean? I took it apart. I did that so that the exhaust manifolds and up pipes can be ceramic coated AND heat wrapped with foil. My buddy that designed the Ford GT exhaust offered to use the same materials on my manifold and up pipes... yes please! That solution will make it so I don't burn up my alternator or lines! F'N fantastic! Only downside here is the cost of the ceramic coating, that shizz is expensive... like 400 bucks. It would look a bit silly with rusted manifolds on the car IMO. So... you're probably asking what's next? Well... Brake lines need to be bent for the front. The MS3 harness needs to be pulled and hooked into the standalone. Fuel lines need to be ran and the gas tank needs to be drained and cleaned. Battery needs to be moved to the back (buy a battery too). Purchase a drive shaft, which needs to be done this week because the lead time is like 4-6 weeks due to metal shortages. Yay - Covid! So, Next question is... when will it start? Maybe next month? When will it drive? Maybe August? Those are the goals anyway. I'd REALLY like to get my car to LS Fest East this year and do some show and tell. Brian Settle said that he will be taking his car to the same event and I think it would be rad to have to wild *** Z cars sitting next to each other. If you haven't seen his car... Do your self a favor and look it up. It's probably the most wild 350z race car I've seen in person. I'm sure the build has a TON of little things between the large items I mentioned. I'm not going to be surprised if a few large items pop up. Additionally, if dates slide... It is what it is. I really thought this car was going to be running years ago. Yes, there really is a -16 to -10 reducer available on the market(Shown on pan). lol https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none Notice the fender washers now in the shroud. 1/2" bolts were used directly into the aluminum core support where I had tapped some threads. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Oh... I need to do A2W lines... but that's 1" cheap hose from the hardware store. I also need to order a small radiator for the A2W heat exchangers.
Yeah, Like I said... There's stuff to be done. Nothing major though. |
Hell yeah, man. Might bring some of the yahoos from the meetup by to check it out if the offer still stands. :tup:
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Got a refill for youhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...daeb24fa6b.jpg
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Well... You're not wrong. lol
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I made some mounts for my headlights last week. Not terrible exciting but necessary. 2 tabs took 4 days (spare time). One mount was cut and tested (1 day). Other mount was replicated (2nd day). Hardware acquired - 2 bolts and mounting C clip - Primed Hardware (3rd day). Painted a few light coats and final fitment. (4th day)
PTFE -8 and 8 fittings, waste gate reference lines, Fragola Fittings (need more), Lokar transmission dipstick, Black Sheep Industries turbo blankets, CSF 7065 King Cooler and Weldable 1" bungs have all been ordered. Half of the stuff mentioned has come in through the week and I'm still waiting on the other half. CSF King Cooler was selected for the compact nature of the radiator, it includes a fan and it has 1" (-16) bung fittings for the water lines. The 1" weld able bungs are needed to make a merge from the two lines coming out of the A2W intercoolers to one line returning to the radiator for cooling. I need to bend up a little water merge to make that happen. That's all the components I needed to make the closed loop work. If this makes no sense... let me know and I'll do more explaining. I went with Hot Rod Fuel hose... Yeah, different than some of the Fragola I've been using but the price was great. Also, my buddy used it on his build... It looked nice... but we'll see in the long run https://hotrodfuelhose.com/products/...gs-bundle-deal Black Sheep Industries has got to have the best stuff out there! I've been a fan of all their stuff so far. The turbo blanket is no exception: https://blacksheepindustries.ca/coll...-turbo-blanket The Lokar transmission dipstick is bad ***: https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Black Sheep Industries turbo blanket came in. This deserves its own highlight because it fits awesome and the quality is great! Normally when I see turbo blankets they are big and bulky. Simply put, BSI are the best blankets I've ever seen.
If you are wondering why I haven't made and real progress the last few days... well, I needed to slow down for a mental break. Sitting back and acquiring a few parts seemed better right now. Next week I'll put in some work; however, in a couple weeks I will take some time off from work to make a massive push to get the car running. AKA - Long days and a few long nights so I can hit the mark of "running by July, driving August and trip September". At this point... I find that to be a reasonable goal. https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Idk man, I feel like you could do a bit better overall; maybe take it apart and start over?
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