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This just in from the powder coater and hot off Amazon truck.
Looks like I have some work to do tomorrow... Push rod measurements, Wheel bearing and dampener removal/install. Of which only 1 will likely get started... lol I'm going with pushrods. So I can order them -Edit I'm for sure going with that accent color. It looks amazing in person and it will look awesome on the turbo housing. --Edit Edit The wheel bearings are being done because "since I'm in there..." That would be a budget killer if I followed a budget. I'd prefer not to. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Here's the KITS you need from Z1. They have the o-ring for between the halves.
https://www.z1motorsports.com/brakes...it-p-6891.html |
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Also. You have done an SPL upgrade on your lower control arms right? Worth it? |
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Broke down my Akebono's and cleaned them up prior to powder coating. I ruined 4 pistons because I shot them out of the caliper ... which I found completely hilarious at the time. It's not terrible funny now. Oh no. there it is. I'm laughing again.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CLDgjUaH..._web_copy_link They 100% needed to be gone through. I'm glad I did. They had a lot of grime and brake dust. The boots were hashed. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Hey dumb chit. You damage the pistons. You're SOL! You CAN'T buy just the pistons. You HAVE to buy the WHOLE caliper.
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Why do they sell replacement pistons?
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I see that Z1 has them. When I did mine. I needed them NOW, not later. I didn't have time to check with Z1. :facepalm: https://www.z1motorsports.com/front-...caAlXuEALw_wcB |
Oh man I totally got lost in the moment having fun. I only had a few hours of sleep and was running on fumes. RIGHT after I blasted them out I had a moment of clarity and face palmed hard. .... I laughed at how stupid it was... Nay.. how stupid I was.
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As I purchased new lower control arms, because the lower ball joints aren’t serviceable :ugh2: |
Haven’t even put any thoughts on the brakes :icon14:
As I’m sure it wouldn’t hurt to freshen these up a bit :iagree: |
Front Wheel Hub YT
I used a remix of Led Zeppelin Immigrant song.... guess what, copy right claim. They can lick my taint. |
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Akebono Caliper Disassembled.
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You have a right hand drive car? :rofl2:
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Found my lost Stillen cooler! YES! That tidbit of metal is WAY too expensive.
My buddies thought it would be funny to put a dead winged rat on my engine. It was indeed funny. My 2 piece rotors were disassembled. I used a rubber hammer to get the inserts out, with the exception of 3 of them. I should have used a punch because I ended up mushrooming the head a bit with a claw hammer. That set me back an hour trying to grind it out. I have all new centric pistons coming in for my calipers. Also, I ordered ACDelco rubber seals. I thought that was made in America... Apparently not. All the bolts were cleaned up for my brake caliper. I used a wire wheel to gently go over the surface which knocked off all the corrosion. I also primed the heads on the bolts and then painted them black. Might as well go full re-tard. The 2 piece rotor hats were scuffed and primed. Later (next day) I was was chatting up Bryan Settle and he noticed the Epoxy Primer was not high temp. SOooooOooooOOooo I went to the parts store to purchase 40 dollars with of paint. After that I sent a message off to the powder coater and asked him how much for cermic coating. He quoted me 50 bucks... SOLD! Lastly, I now have the push rod measurements for my engine. I'm happy to say that's the last internal component I needed for my engine to run. I'm chipping away at this elephant. It feels like I have some tail wind on this project right now. A question for you guys. Have the videos been getting easier to watch? Or... don't quit your day job? Or... you simply haven't watched/cared. Not going to hurt my feelings. just looking for a bit of feedback. Reason I'm doing it is to give a bit more depth to the build here, have some video documentation for myself and most importantly... nerd out a bit with video editing/graphic software. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
:tup:
Where did you get the brakes seals and pistons from? Does the seal kit have the o-ring for between the caliper halves? |
Amazing build!!!
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I'll have a parachute on my car later... After all, I built these brakes. :roflpuke2: https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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IG@gbrettin
Starter needed to be clocked out away from the block because it was hitting. Noticed the crank sensor was missing... So... I put one in since the starter was out. Custom pan already paid off because I was able to get to the starter bolt! The fancy starter is available at @motionraceworks if anyone needs one. #motionraceworks ------------------------------- Aside from clocking the starter... I took the 2 piece rotor hats into the powder coater to have them slicked up. The price breakdown came out to be the exact same as purchasing high temp paint. So about that crank sensor... I went to the store and picked it up new, no big deal. Then I got to thinking... EVERY sensor has been new on this.:icon14: basically... there would be no difference if I purchased a bare block. :rolleyes: Dartblock would have been bad ***! oh well. It's all a slippery slope. I'm GREAT at finding rabbit holes and swan diving head first into them. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
So I purchased used shocks from FB last week with 25k. My old shocks have 97k on them so I figured.... "while I'm in here..."
The install was probably one of the easier things I've done on the car in a while. I even took the time to clean up the SPL end links. You might be wondering why I'm putting OE shocks on. It's pretty simple. OE shocks are REALLY good for the price point (120 dollars for all 4 corners) and don't think you will see massive gains until you spend a minimum of 1K per corner. I've got different 1k items to worry about before I go down that path. Also, I have some plans for the rear suspension going to a cantilever being built into the cage. That way I can lay some MASSIVE shocks into the trunk of the car. Oddly enough, there has been one 350z that already did something similar to what I was thinking: https://www.instagram.com/p/CBOIdvXH..._web_copy_link Anyway... more pictures. less exciting stuff; however, it's still part of the process. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Im not sure if they are buried under the snow or not but I have my oem laying around with 20k miles on em. Yours free if I can find them under pine needles and ice...
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These are only in for a year.... Hopefully....
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As many times as it appears you’ve taken apart & put back together...could probably do it blindfolded :iagree:
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IG@gbrettin:
SPL lower/upper spherical bushings will need to wait until next year. Time for the K member to return home. K member on with fresh shocks, scuffed clean(ish), and fresh powder coated components. @tlrcoatings did an amazing job. Important to me, they taped off the @mavenperformance mounts which kept a specific look I wanted (which also look amazing -------------------------------------------------------------------------- I finally made a reasonable decision of NOT buying additional parts. SPL components are a no-go for now. I'll get them next winter and likely do that all at the same time I install the Winters Quick Change. I suspect I'll jump in another rabbit hole of wanting to powder coat everything when I do that. Out side of that... I am EXTREEMLY happy I did the wheel bearings, shocks, cleaned up the kmember, cleaned bolts, rebuilding the calipers and have had parts powder coated. The kmember brace had trace amounts of rust. They came back from the powder coater beautiful with out rust. ALSO, when I took the kmember brace off I found a small amount of surface rust that I would never know about. That was all cleaned up when I painted the engine bay. Now that the k-member is back in... I took a look and had to remind myself that the engine bay is stitch welded! All this PITA work is finally starting to come together! I've got to admit... there's a lot of times when it feels like there's absolutely no end to this build. Not any more. I'll just go ahead and say it. I'm really hoping to have the car to Zdayz this year. This time, I feel like it stands a chance of actually making it. Don't expect the car to be turned up to full steam until late summer. I just want to have functional miles on it at first. If it makes 450hp with 1lbs of boost. I don't care. It will be running and driving. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
Light at the end of the tunnel. :tup:
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Getting closer to GO TIME!!!
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Last couple days were a struggle. Let me explain why. There's two things that were eating at me. 1. Trying to figure out direction for my suspension components and 2. not knowing enough about suspension components. Clearly one impacts the other.
I'll lead off with this. Originally I had thought that Front Upper Control arms had controlled all camber settings. WRONG. That one thing along was having a great impact on direction for my future not purchased wheels. The ideal wheel for my Z would be this: 18" (cheaper rubber and a tad lighter), little meat on the side wall, some wheel lip and a large front wheel contact patch for handling. Not a deal breaker of the car is staggered or square. I only expect to get one Michigan season, late spring - early fall, out of a set of rubber before a new set is put on. The yearly rubber thing is a reason why 18's were a bit more appealing. Ok, so that is figured out. Then I have been eyeballing NISMO Rays Club Sports. I've seen them in person and they are the wheel for me. Ok, so now I know what wheel I like... how to make that work with an aggressive wheel. I have the adjustability (remember, I thought I only needed Front Upper Control Arms)... I know I want something wide... Why not 18" 10.5 +22. In my head, I've seen people run 20mm spacers with OE wheels and since that offset pushes the wheel out I could run the wider wheel. Win win right? Apparently not. I'll need some sort of adjustment to camber (provided by a shock change). To top all that off, I'm internally struggling using the AMS Front Upper Control Arm because... well... it's not SPL and I don't like not using top tier parts. This week I've been tossing around ideas on how to get my K-member bushings changed, Upper control arms and lower control arms completed with SPL. Additionally I've been considering Voodoo steering knuckle whole package which would go against needing some of the SPL parts. Want to know where I landed as of last night? I drew a line in the sand. Enough is enough and that is a crazy rabbit hole to fall in. Leave the AMS Upper control arm. Run the stock wheels, shock (just put those in anyway) and don't change the whole thing out to SPL. Most importantly... Make the parts bin run! Now why would I post all this? It's important to know what kind of holes you can fall into during a build. Some are acceptable: cheap shock change , wheel bearings and brakes (safety item shouldn't be glossed over). Some are not acceptable: SPL everything before it runs. Although, I will say the later is very very appealing... some of us really do have some sort of budget constraints (albeit flexible). Was it worth the read for you? I hope so. That's just a small window into my world. Worrying about details I don't need to. EDIT -- A bit of backstory about the AMS parts. A Great Lakes Z Member won the parts back in 2013 at a Zdayz raffle. I bought them for like 100 bucks or so because he has a z33. He made some money and I had some suspension components that I may or may not use. They have been in my basement since 2014, when I bought them from him. With that said, I didn't go out and splurge on AMS for my Z. This is just something I'm getting out of the house and I'm hoping that the newer urethane bushings will be a net benefit over the next year of driving. The AMS upper control arm is heavier than OE... I really don't like that. So... that's a con. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
I have enjoyed every bit of your journey as some of us know all to well what you are experiencing. I started my build just wanting to get a few things done besides my motor. Hell and first I was just going to reuse my same turbos and stuff well that got out of hand because of wait time and some expendable money tree funds so why not go all in with upgrades while I wait. I also figured I would get a few things done for areo, suspension and safety. Nothing that would set me back more than 5 or 6k. Well, after all the waiting my non-motor build kept growing, growing and growing. At last count I am pretty sure I am close to 30k for a roller. I about puked when I made the mistake of adding up all my cost for that part of my build and the crazy thing is I can't stop thinking about what else I need to get the most out of what I have. It is a damn addiction plain and simple. I...we need help and God love our wives!!!!
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Well, this weekend I thought I was going to be fixing the stripped holes in the head. NOPE. I noticed some debris inside the engine from the constant construction. So.... That redirected the efforts to a complete tear down of the engine. For real. I have way too much time and money into this thing to blow it up on the first dyno pull. I mean, there's always a chance... but no reason to increase the chances.
With that said, I broke the entire engine down. I decided to make some lemonade out of the lemons and paint the block. Taping the block off was actually a bit more time consuming than I would have anticipated. Not sure on the amount of time it took... but it was longer than expected. Of course, it could have felt longer because I spent the whole day breaking the engine down and labeling all the bolts. What ever. When it came time to paint the engine. I used an etching epoxy primer (dark green coat). After that, I did a light coat of green followed on by highlighter yellow. The result was.... Green apple. 100% not what I wanted. The aim was to get the color to resemble the powder coated parts. So... at the end of a 10hr day (no breaks) and a dripping block (the paint was runny). I threw in the towel. Next day. I examine the block... yup, Green Apple. I use a razor blade to cut off some of the runs and assess the situation. I decided to hit the block with ceramic white and then follow on with highlighter yellow. I did that process three times. I must say... I think I got really close to where it needed to be. later in the day, the powder coater hit me up with messages showing me the calipers, brackets and turbo housings. They came out SICK! Final thought... I didn't really want to show the debris in the engine to everyone. BUT! I maintain I have an open and honest build here. It's very important to be transparent about these issues. I hate having flaws as much as anyone else. Oh yeah, I found my shrader valve that I lost when I was messing with my Accusump. It was in a socket. -- Edit -- The last two pictures of the block were from today at 5:30am. I woke up early and decided to hit the block with VHT Satin Clear. I may get back out to the shop and start assembly tonight!. https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2pap090files.storage.live....&cropmode=none https://dsm01pap002files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://dm2305files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2pap090files.storage.live....&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dsm01pap001files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2302files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dsm01pap001files.storage.liv...&cropmode=none https://dm2305files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://dm2301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none https://sn3301files.storage.live.com...&cropmode=none |
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