JLarson's build thread

[madwi]

Originally Posted by gbrettin

Seems like a PITA to greece the turbo every 3k mi... but I suppose it will keep you honest with oil changes. Meaning, if you are late on your oil change you will also be late on turbo lubrication.

Its really not. Front end is up in the air already and the zerk fitting is easily accessible. While oil is draining I give her a couple of squeezes.

[JLarson]

Weekend update - installed the RJM 3.3 pedal, replacing the 3.1 version, and more importantly the Tilton HD CMC. I've seen very few (0) writeups on the Tilton CMC from a user perspective, and want to capture the... experience... while it's fresh in my mind.

For background, I had been using the RJM 3.1 pedal already. It's an excellent mod, I just happened to find a 3.3 with Tilton CMC for a good deal, and pulled the trigger.

Without giving too much detail, the 3.3 does have some significant improvements over the 3.1, most notably in the clevis pin design (picture 2). I'll try to get some decent pictures showing the difference in a future post.

The Tilton HD CMC is very different from the oem, both substantially shorter and entirely metal. Unlike the OEM CMC, it mounts from the drivers side footwell, not the engine bay. You'll have to trim back the carpet around the CMC slot, slide the new master cylinder into place, and use an aluminum bracket/spacer inside the drivers footwell. You'll use a 2nd spacer bracket in the engine bay, and a 3rd bracket bolts all of it together. This is a huge pain in the ***.

The spacers are cut in half - both in the engine bay, and in the footwell - with each half fitting around part of the master cylinder. I can conclude that the ideal candidate for this install possesses 4 arms, and is able to dislocate his shoulders. In the drivers side footwell, you'll be lying on your side, trying to orient the master cylinder and pin the spacer brackets in place (this was my job). In the engine bay, you'll need a trusted friend (who you are willing to lose as a friend forever) aligning the split bracket pieces, and the bracket that holds the brackets, so that you can slide bolts through the holes set for the OEM CMC. This was Craig the Blessed's job. This is somewhat complicated by the poor visibility you'll have while trying to align the holes. Once that's done, it's a simple matter to connect the new stainless steel line to a brass fitting in the driver's side wheel well, and reinstall the original reservoir.

You'll also need to bleed the clutch down to the brass fitting (which, btw, went really smoothly now that I have an idea of what I'm doing).

Picture 1 shows the new lines with the kit, picture 2 shows the clevis revision, picture 3 shows just a bit of the drivers side adapter plate/spacer underneath the RJM pedal, and picture 4 hints at the agony of the engine bay spacer and bracket.

As far as feedback - pedal feel improves substantially. My release point is higher and more consistent, and pedal effort is reduced. I'd recommend this mod, but be aware you will need either a helper OR a great deal more ingenuity than I possess.

[Base370]

You should give me your old version 3.1 pedal lol.

[JLarson]

Originally Posted by Base370

You should give me your old version 3.1 pedal lol.

I don't know who you are.

[BettyZ]

Originally Posted by JLarson

I don't know who you are.

It's JAR by another name.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

[JLarson]

Originally Posted by BettyZ

It's JAR by another name.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

If it was Jar, he'd have offered some form of payment, like a "brojob" as he calls it

[JLarson]

In light of the cancellation of Zdayz 2020 due to Covid-19, the illustrious Madwi offered to host an event for some of the members on the forum. This has been captured in other threads, but I'll mention it here so I know where to find my notes again in future.

This was my first time in Michigan. The Grand Rapids area is a bit over 700 miles each way from Philadelphia, which, with stops, makes it around 11 hours of driving. We left Thursday the 2nd, stayed overnight in Pittsburgh with some of my wife's friends, and arrived at Madwi'z Estates Friday around 4:15 pm. Ghostvette, Zs Carpenter, Leingod, Bettyz, and JARblue had already arrived. Beers were had, pizza was consumed, cars were admired.

Day 2, Rusty and his wife arrived along with OldGuy. The corpses of millions of bugs were washed from cars, we enjoyed a 4th of July BBQ with Madwi as grillmaster, and eventually we took a late afternoon cruise out to Lake Michigan before returning to the manor house for light refreshments courtesy of the culinary skills of Lein and his paramour. We also celebrated Rusty and Chris's anniversary with cake, and Betty drank all the whiskey. Perfect end to a perfect day.

Drove home day 3. Stuck due to a car crash on I76 in midwestern PA. Wife did yoga on the highway. Rolled in around 8:30.

Now I just need to install my diff brace, courtesy of Rusty's Z Fab Shop!

[madwi]

Did someone say C for cookies?!?!?

( Click to show/hide )

[Spooler]

He has too. The guy that bought Ryan's old car also had the same issue. It is not uncommon at all with the 370ztt cars.

At what point do you stop because of high temperatures?

[JLarson]

Updated Mod List:

BP Turbo Kit with Comp 6467 Oil-less turbo
750cc injectors
63 mm ported throttle bodies (Syno)
Z1 Ported Upper Mani
Fast Intentions CBE, 12" Resonators
Zspeed aluminum undershroud
Zspeed lightweight flywheel
Southbend Stage 3 clutch
Zspeed CMAK
Z1 bushing inserts
Z1 poly trans mount
Z1 20 mm spacers
Kawasaki Axle Nuts
Michelin P4S tires
TWM Short Shifter
Shift knob extender
Custom shift knob
RJM Clutch Pedal V3.3
HD Clutch Master Cylinder
Z1 Diff Cover
Z1 Poly Bushings
30 Row Oil Cooler
Bell Raceworks Diff Brace modified by Rusty
EcuTek tune by RT Tuning @ 506 whp/440 wtq on 7.5 psi boost

Z1 Intakes + Intake Upgrades - Removed for BP Kit
RJM Clutch Pedal V3.1 - Removed for rev 3.3
Fast Intentions Long Tube Headers - Removed for BP Kit

Waiting to go on car:
Trackspec Hood Vents
Z1 SS Brake Lines
Switch (to disable yaw sensor)
Catch Can System (will DIY) - no longer need with vent to atmosphere

Near Future:
CJM Fuel Return System
Wheels
Front Swaybar

More Distant Future:
Id1050x Injectors
Built Block
SPL Stuff

[danegrey]

nice...

[onzedge]

Originally Posted by danegrey

nice...

[JLarson]

Up next is the fuel return system. Ordered a CJM S1.E fuel return kit through RT Tuning yesterday.

[JLarson]

Updated Mod List:

BP Turbo Kit with Comp 6467 Oil-less turbo
750cc injectors
63 mm ported throttle bodies (Syno)
Z1 Ported Upper Mani
Fast Intentions CBE, 12" Resonators
Zspeed aluminum undershroud
Zspeed lightweight flywheel
Southbend Stage 3 clutch
Zspeed CMAK
Z1 bushing inserts
Z1 poly trans mount
Z1 20 mm spacers
Kawasaki Axle Nuts
TWM Short Shifter
Shift knob extender
Custom shift knob
RJM Clutch Pedal V3.3
HD Clutch Master Cylinder
SS Clutch Line
Z1 Diff Cover
Z1 Poly Bushings
30 Row Oil Cooler
Bell Raceworks Diff Brace modified by Rusty
CJM S1 Fuel Return System
Hellcat 525 LPH fuel pump
Fuel Pump Wiring Upgrade
AEM Boost Solenoid
EcuTek tune by RT Tuning @ 526 whp/451 wtq

Waiting to go on car:
Trackspec Hood Vents
Z1 SS Brake Lines
Switch (to disable yaw sensor)


Near Future:

Wheels
Front Swaybar

More Distant Future:
Id1050x Injectors
Built Block
SPL Stuff

[Rusty]

The rabbit hole is getting deeper.