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Originally Posted by jpkirk Ima gonna say 415 whp and 390 rwt I love the confidence! Sent from my SHIELD Tablet

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Old 09-17-2014, 09:38 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpkirk View Post
Ima gonna say 415 whp and 390 rwt
I love the confidence!

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:00 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by MightyBobo View Post
I love the confidence!

Sent from my SHIELD Tablet
I went to this Hot Rod Mag site

Chassis Dyno Guide

went to the last page, calculated some percentages based on facts not really in evidence and came up with some numbers. I dunno. Many variables. What's the barometer reading today?
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Old 09-17-2014, 10:40 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpkirk View Post
I went to this Hot Rod Mag site

Chassis Dyno Guide

went to the last page, calculated some percentages based on facts not really in evidence and came up with some numbers. I dunno. Many variables. What's the barometer reading today?
Assume at least 10% drive train loss, give or take. More, with older slush boxes. Modern ones aren't so bad.

I'm guessing I'm around 450ish crank HP, maybe a little less. So I'm guessing 395ish.

Barometer shouldn't matter, it's taken into account. Also, this dyno is brand new. So new in fact, that there are only two places that have it: Dynojet themselves, and this shop.

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Old 09-17-2014, 11:49 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jpkirk View Post
I went to this Hot Rod Mag site

Chassis Dyno Guide

went to the last page, calculated some percentages based on facts not really in evidence and came up with some numbers. I dunno. Many variables. What's the barometer reading today?
Ambient air temperature and humidity make an ENORMOUS difference in your dyno numbers by the way. Just ask Frank.
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Old 09-17-2014, 01:46 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Ambient air temperature and humidity make an ENORMOUS difference in your dyno numbers by the way. Just ask Frank.
Right, and then you apply SAE correction factors. And then they don't matter so much.
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