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I think we've all got 300rwhp on the right dyno in the right weather. Dynos vary so much that absolute numbers are virtually meaningless for comparison between different cars/dynos/regions. Before/after
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3595 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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I think we've all got 300rwhp on the right dyno in the right weather. Dynos vary so much that absolute numbers are virtually meaningless for comparison between different cars/dynos/regions. Before/after on your own car is useful, but even then I've recently been psyched out by weather changes making a larger difference than mods.
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#3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3595 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Here's a calculator, play with the numbers yourself. Between two dyno runs at the same location many months apart (different seasons), this calculator claimed that conditions accounted for a ~15hp difference in my car's dyno runs:
Dyno Correction Factor Calculator Then you add in the fact that different dyno brands use different physics methods for measuring torque, some dyno charts use SAE correction and some don't, some mfgs are just known to read higher or lower, some dyno shops adjust their machines higher or lower, or simply fail to calibrate regularly at all and just let it drift over time.... I could go on. |
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