Install of Stillen G3 Intakes complete - review, etc.

Brazilbro

i think u should beable to tune the vvl system to make bigger power in the low-end by turning off emmission controls

semtex

For any of you who may still have concerns about these intake filters obstructing air flowing to the radiator -- I was changing my oil tonight and right before I was about to bolt the undertray back on, I happened to look up as I was laying underneath the car, straight at the filters. I yelled for my wife to hand me my camera. As you can see from the pictures below, there's plenty of room behind the filters and air isn't being blocked from the radiator at all. Hopefully these pictures will put this concern to rest once and for all.

__________________
"There are no small accidents on this circuit." -- Ayrton Senna
316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10)
Stillen G3 CAI, CBE, Pulley / F.I. LTH / GTSpec Ladder Brace / Setrab Oil Cooler / UpRev-tuned by Forged Perf.

Zuppy51

Good post and work on you're part!

Youre number's are really impressive!
316.8whp & 248 ft/lbs (Dyno Dynamics) | 319whp & 256 ft/lbs (DynoJet) (04/23/10)

What type of real world gains are these in terms of launching, 0-60, 1/4 mile etc. Or can you actually feel the difference seat of your pants?

I'm really interested in doing something similar to my own car.

280z/300zx

Anyway to remove the filters via this route or only by removing the bumper? Just wondering for cleaning later on.

wstar

You will have to remove the bumper to change/clean/oil the filters, there's really no realistic way around that. After you've done it once though, removing that bumper is pretty easy. I bet next time I can do it in 10-15 minutes tops.

Basically taking off the bumper entails:

1) Remove that plastic shield under the engine (the same one you remove for oil changes)
2) Remove the little spoilers in front of the front wheels (sport package, 3 little bolts each)
3) Remove the little plastic cover between the radiator and the bumper under the hood (all plastic snaps)
4) Remove one plastic snap from inside each front wheel well, and loosen a bolt hidden under there
5) Remove two more bolts under the car in the front corners of the bumper (just behind the main front spoiler from the sport package)
6) Pull on the bumper near the headlights and it just unsnaps and comes free

That combined with the long cleaning interval on the K&N's should make it a non-issue.

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RCZ

Hmm... Some of those steps are extra. You dont need to do step one or two. Just need to remove the screws that are holding the bottom of the bumper to the black splash guard. Like 8 screws total.

At least that was my experience... I didnt go near the plastic shield.

wstar

Yeah, some of it did turn out to be extraneous. I pulled the bumper again last night to tweak things a little (had a minor vibration on the intakes around 7K RPM), here's a revised list:




1) Remove the front 6 bolts from the plastic shield under the engine (the same one you remove for oil changes)
2) Remove two more bolts under the car in the front corners of the bumper (just behind the main front spoiler from the sport package, same rough area as the first 6)
3) Remove the outer bolt from each of the little spoilers in front of the front wheels (sport package, 3 little bolts each)
4) Remove the plastic snaps along the top front edge of the bumper under the hood
5) Remove one plastic snap from inside each front wheel well, and loosen a bolt hidden under there (top corner of the bumper)
6) Pull on the bumper near the headlights and it just unsnaps and comes free

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7AT Track Car!
Journal thread / Car setup details

K20A2_S

now for some real airflow I thought I saw a pic of a white 370 with two small cutouts on teh bumper for the intakes to directly get air?? where did I see that?

K20A2_S

Semtex, when are you going to the 1/4 track to see how these mods do?