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STILLEN Exhaust & Gen 3 Intake Dynos - 18hp Each!

I will gladly do independent testing for you if you send me a set or at least give a discount to offset the price of the dyno runs I promise

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Old 02-16-2009, 11:36 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I will gladly do independent testing for you if you send me a set or at least give a discount to offset the price of the dyno runs I promise back to back runs without taking the car off the dyno with video to prove it.
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Old 02-17-2009, 06:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I like the challenge, I'm definitely watching this thread now. Things just got interesting...

If it equals the claimed power gains I'll buy one immediately.

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Old 02-17-2009, 10:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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did a child draw that? its cute.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:10 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RCZ View Post
did a child draw that? its cute.
That was comparing my best SAE run yesterday with a 350Z run that was on file. The reason you see it breakup is due to the ignition feed and not getting a good spark signal for rpm. The other sheet posted comparing removing the filters is much better and doesn't breakup.
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Old 02-18-2009, 11:57 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Im just giving you crap keeping the thread going until Josh answers..
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Old 02-18-2009, 05:27 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Im just giving you crap keeping the thread going until Josh answers..
In that case..... I'll help.

The honest to god truth is I hope the intake is everything they say and more. Certainly in my best interest. But man, that's a ton to gain on a small motor whose intake doesn't look all that bad to begin with. Hope I'm proven wrong.

Problem I've ran into virtually my entire hotrodding career is rarely does something produce what it's hyped to be and in many cases needs modification to just fit or work. The term is: "racers net" Which means if you want it to work, you got to make it work.

Unfortunately not necessarily entirely completely in the hands of the people making and promoting the products. First, if someone is honest and they say it only makes 10hp extra........ no one buys it. They buy it from the guy who says theirs makes 25hp. Rarely also are items dyno certified for gains. They brag and talk a bunch of smack to their buds about how much power their car makes w/o even knowing what it really makes. How urban legends start and shaky companies stay in business.

Same for the big name shops who provide dyno sheets for their big buck buildups. Who really bothers to have another shop dyno the car for verification?? Hell, ya got a dyno sheet with it didn't ya? Could not even begin to tell you the times I've seen cars with dyno sheets fall way short of what they thought they paid for when put on an independent dyno.

JC Whitney marketing at it best.
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Old 02-18-2009, 05:32 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Interesting... Nice looking engine bay. Clean. Mine was dirty as hell. (Always working on it, never tidying up. LOL)
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Old 02-18-2009, 05:48 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Hey I'm sorry guys.. things have been busy and I've been relying on my email notification for this thread, which apparently I read in my email box without clicking back to the site to get more updates.. and hadn't seen these from the last couple of days..

Denny, I can't see the dyno sheets you've posted, both links head straight to photobucket, can you send those to me or repost the links? I don't think it's something on my end... but you never know.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:11 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Hey Guys,

Josh just told me about the offer Denny has made and we're in. In the past we have always been ready to stand behind our products and put them to the test. We just ask that you follow a few simple guidelines to ensure a fair and equal testing environment.

1) You perform a minimum of 7 runs. We have found that these engines will learn the new parts and we have literally watched the cars gain more and more power on each pull up to about the 9th run. They don't typically climb any higher after the 9th run.

2) You do not remove the car or adjust the tie downs in between dyno pulls. By loosening or over-tightening the straps you can either gain or lose horsepower. The intake must be installed on the dyno with the straps not being touched at all.

3) You document the installation completely with pictures and feedback. Also, tell us what you think of the intake, construction, materials, out of box experiences.

4) This must be tested on a bone-stock car. No other modifications can be on the car for either the baseline or the STILLEN Gen. 3 testing.

If we can agree to these terms then we have a deal. We did the exact same thing for the G37 guys when they tested the intake and it proved to gain the power that we claimed.

These intakes are still in production so it'll be a couple of weeks before we can send them out but we will at least be able to get this ball rolling in the meantime.

Thanks!

Kyle Millen

Last edited by Kyle@STILLEN; 02-18-2009 at 07:43 PM.
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:17 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Deal!

Ordered new cats and Y-pipe that should be in tomorrow but I'll hold off on putting them on the car. Is there a certain engine temp you like to see the runs performed at?? The car did lose a tiny bit of hp with the oil temp @220 vs just below 200 or was that an abnormality due to only 150 miles on the car?

Some cars loose quite a bit with heat soak (like my Ltx Vette) and some like the LS1 make more power typically around the third run so let me know.

My personal e-mail address is: d48mclain@tx.rr.com - phone 817-430-1324

Absolutely love to see vendors belly up at the bar like real men for a change. As mentioned, it's in everyone's best interest to sort out the posers from the players. You'd really be surprised at what dyno tricks some of the big name local tuners play.

Man.......I just love this stuff.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle@STILLEN View Post
Hey Guys,

Josh just told me about the offer Denny has made and we're in. In the past we have always been ready to stand behind our products and put them to the test. We just ask that you follow a few simple guidelines to ensure a fair and equal testing environment.

1) You perform a minimum of 7 runs. We have found that these engines will learn the new parts and we have literally watched the cars gain more and more power on each pull up to about the 9th run. They don't typically climb any higher after the 9th run.

2) You do not remove the car or adjust the tie downs in between dyno pulls. By loosening or over-tightening the straps you can either gain or lose horsepower. The intake must be installed on the dyno with the straps not being touched at all.

3) You document the installation completely with pictures and feedback. Also, tell us what you think of the intake, construction, materials, out of box experiences.

4) This must be tested on a bone-stock car. No other modifications can be on the car for either the baseline or the STILLEN Gen. 3 testing.

If we can agree to these terms then we have a deal. We did the exact same thing for the G37 guys when they tested the intake and it proved to gain the power that we claimed.

These intakes are still in production so it'll be a couple of weeks before we can send them out but we will at least be able to get this ball rolling in the meantime.

Thanks!

Kyle Millen
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Old 02-19-2009, 04:21 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh@STILLEN View Post
Hey I'm sorry guys.. things have been busy and I've been relying on my email notification for this thread, which apparently I read in my email box without clicking back to the site to get more updates.. and hadn't seen these from the last couple of days..

Denny, I can't see the dyno sheets you've posted, both links head straight to photobucket, can you send those to me or repost the links? I don't think it's something on my end... but you never know.
Josh

e-mail me at the e-mail address in the above and I send you the scaned jpeg sheets. Pretty good with cars.....missed a few geek classes on posting picturers though. What can I say??
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:21 PM   #12 (permalink)
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You bring up a good point about engine temps...I totally forgot that. We will have a set engine temp range that the tests will need to be performed in. We are more concerned with the coolant temp than the oil temp. I will check with my engineers tomorrow morning.

With that being said, you are not wrong about the oil temp rising in these cars and we are working on a solution to this. We work very closely with the Nissan engineer's and they told us a few little secrets about some of results from their testing. We are nearly finished with an oil cooler using a very high quality Setrab cooler. It should be ready in the next month or so.
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:24 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Here is a similar review on a G37...

Review Stillen 3G Intake Review + Dyno - MyG37
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:28 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Engine temp sweet spots are pretty much the norm for almost any car and the traditional way people massage the gain numbers. My problem is no way to monitor the water temp which I also consider is the critical parameter vs oil temp. If ya got something, throw it in the box and I'll nuke it right back.

David Vissard (sp? think I have his last name at least close) believes around 170 degrees to be optimal for making power in a traditional small block Chevy. Bob Norwood on the other hand is an old friend and used to preach to me "heat is horsepower." Bob is a god among the Ferrari crowd ,so tell me what these cars like.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle@STILLEN View Post
You bring up a good point about engine temps...I totally forgot that. We will have a set engine temp range that the tests will need to be performed in. We are more concerned with the coolant temp than the oil temp. I will check with my engineers tomorrow morning.

With that being said, you are not wrong about the oil temp rising in these cars and we are working on a solution to this. We work very closely with the Nissan engineer's and they told us a few little secrets about some of results from their testing. We are nearly finished with an oil cooler using a very high quality Setrab cooler. It should be ready in the next month or so.
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Old 02-20-2009, 06:34 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quick point I've been thinking about and probably a good time to mention it.

Thermostats? Usually the factory installs these for engine longevity and emissions. Are other ones available where the engine is in the range it likes for more power?

The first thing most Corvette guys do is cold air intake, headers, exhaust, and lower temp thermostat.
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