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STILLEN Exhaust & Gen 3 Intake Dynos - 18hp Each!

Originally Posted by Denny McLain Engine temp sweet spots are pretty much the norm for almost any car and the traditional way people massage the gain numbers. My problem is

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Old 02-20-2009, 02:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Denny McLain View Post
Engine temp sweet spots are pretty much the norm for almost any car and the traditional way people massage the gain numbers. My problem is no way to monitor the water temp which I also consider is the critical parameter vs oil temp. If ya got something, throw it in the box and I'll nuke it right back.

David Vissard (sp? think I have his last name at least close) believes around 170 degrees to be optimal for making power in a traditional small block Chevy. Bob Norwood on the other hand is an old friend and used to preach to me "heat is horsepower." Bob is a god among the Ferrari crowd ,so tell me what these cars like.
I want to say that we do all of our dyno testing between 183-187 degrees. I will have to confirm that but those are the numbers that come to mind.

In regards to a thermostat. You bring up a good point and one that is usually addressed by Nismo directly. Your local dealership should be able to help you with that.
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Old 02-18-2009, 06:33 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:49 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Old 02-18-2009, 10:07 PM   #4 (permalink)
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#3 eagerly awaiting the results
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Old 02-19-2009, 07:52 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Did that guy really just rate an intake install a 9/10? 9/10 should be like a motorswap...

Took 4 guys, 2 hours. Dear lord.

Anyway, 15hp gains...pretty absurd. If it makes 15hp gains for Denny, I will buy with my eyes closed.

Sorry to ask this, but do you have any mounted pics on the 370z? I, along with some others, are curious as to where it sits...

Also, Setrab kit, count me in.

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Old 02-20-2009, 08:01 AM   #6 (permalink)
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^That's a very good point. If the Z is making the most power on the 7th-9th run it certainly likes it a little warmer. However, if we are already having heat issues on the track, won't this only exacerbate them? Or, with an oil cooler, could we keep the motor right in the sweet spot? Does this deserve it's own thread?
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Old 02-20-2009, 02:23 PM   #7 (permalink)
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^That's a very good point. If the Z is making the most power on the 7th-9th run it certainly likes it a little warmer. However, if we are already having heat issues on the track, won't this only exacerbate them? Or, with an oil cooler, could we keep the motor right in the sweet spot? Does this deserve it's own thread?
In between each dyno run you allow the car sufficient time to cool back down to a set point, then begin the next run. You aren't just doing one run after the other which, like you pointed out, would raise the engine temp more and more over each pull. This is the most basic explanation I can offer of dyno testing.

1) Perform your first pull
2) Allow sufficient time to let car return to optimal engine temp ranges.
3) Perform next pull
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Old 02-20-2009, 04:45 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Sometimes shops who do group dyno sessions will make three quick passes to get off the car as quickly as possible so the next person can get on. Or for an individual who wants a trophy dyno run for their records just to say they have a dyno run. That's OK in that case, however for serious tuning or performance verification, you always a maintain a constant run temperature with proper allotted cool down for consistency.

Each run has to be the same regardless and if your tuning........only change one parameter at a time unless your adding a known tune. Easiest way in the world to get lost is changing too many things at the same time or be sloppy with engine temps.

Not sure about the Nissan timing maps, but some factory ECU software will alter the timing according to water temp. The objective is to eliminate as many extraneous variables as possible or you're wasting time and money.

There is a lot of science and study methodology that is used if you're going to do it right. Some of them good-ol-boy NASCAR mechanics ain't so dumb after all.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle@STILLEN View Post
In between each dyno run you allow the car sufficient time to cool back down to a set point, then begin the next run. You aren't just doing one run after the other which, like you pointed out, would raise the engine temp more and more over each pull. This is the most basic explanation I can offer of dyno testing.

1) Perform your first pull
2) Allow sufficient time to let car return to optimal engine temp ranges.
3) Perform next pull
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Old 02-26-2009, 10:39 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I'll throw the exhaust video up in the main post, but here is a video with stock and the STILLEN exhaust so you can hear the difference (crappy point and shoot camera tho).

Also, this has been released, pricing and information can be found here: STILLEN 370Z Product Page

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hNS-dJ4lvcY
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Old 02-27-2009, 01:43 AM   #10 (permalink)
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hey josh are we getting a group buy d/c for this?
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Old 02-27-2009, 06:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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If there was volume (most GB's we do are in the 15-25 range) I can see what I can do, but we got the official pricing and I was able to get that knocked down as you see it now as an introductory, which normally doesn't happen. I'd like to see some people install these and get the feedback.
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Old 03-02-2009, 08:43 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh@STILLEN View Post
If there was volume (most GB's we do are in the 15-25 range) I can see what I can do, but we got the official pricing and I was able to get that knocked down as you see it now as an introductory, which normally doesn't happen. I'd like to see some people install these and get the feedback.

YO JOSH.

Lots of pre-market hype, I'm still here, so........ where is the intake that makes 18 hp over the stock intake?? I'd like to do an install and give you some independent dyno feedback that you're begging for.

Being the cats, Y-pipe and high flow filters were just sitting in my garage, pretty quiet on the private e-mails on when the intake was to arrive, lots of noise on the web, and no intake. Installed everything I have and will dyno this week giving independent feedback as to the results. And yes.....it's a whole lot louder. (Surprisingly much louder, but the stock cats are double cats, not single)

Got a bud whom does the racing chassis for LGM's race Vettes who is for sure is the best fabricator I personally know of (Maybe Lou G thinks the same) and he is going to look at the after Y-pipe exhaust to see if he can do some tweaks.( He did a dual 3" exhaust system for my Vette that produces identical dyno power to open headers)

The Immediate rear Y section is pretty whippy before it goes to the dual resonators, but as loud as it became, wonder if the factory maybe didn't wimp it purposely for next year gains? We'll see what he thinks.

Way I look at it. With additional CFM going out the exhaust, the intake with additional flow will only help more over stock. Right?

What say you? Or, are the gains a fuel/air trick?? Being the car dyno's pig rich, any tricks that lean it out will produce more hp, so will tuning software. CFM is.......CFM and lack of inhibits hp. More than you need, does nothing. Learned that the hard way adding a $650.00 1200 cfm TB over a 1,000 cfm TB. The gains were.....Zero on a 575 hp motor.

Removing the filters, keeping the top open for additional airflow produced.......nothing.
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Old 03-02-2009, 09:26 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Hi Denny!

Good to hear from you. As was posted in all of our posts in this thread, we're in final production, with mid-march being the latest they would be shipping. It's been less than 2 weeks since we last conversed, but I'm sure you'd agree that we won't amount to "lots of noise and no intake".. just give me a little bit of time.

We're excited for you to test the intake... as soon as I have more information, I will keep you guys updated.
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Old 03-03-2009, 07:56 AM   #14 (permalink)
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The lots of noise just comes from removing and replacing the stock cats. Honestly surprised as to the decibel difference in higher kpa throttle positions. At lighter throttle you can't tell the difference. Acts/Sounds a bit like an exhaust system that uses a valve to bypass a portion of the muffler.

My experience is intake insufficiencies choke the car at higher rpm where addition cfm is necessary. If there is a flow issue on the stock intake, it will show up on the dyno particularly on the top end. Read where another brand of intake is able to fool the MAF, therefore leaning out the car. Being these cars are very rich from the factory, it would show up during the entire powerband and on the wideband 02 readings.

My intent is certainly tuning software as unquestionable there would be gains in setting up proper/fuel air and perhaps some from timing. If the intake gains are from leaning out the motor vs required additional cfm; then for someone like me with intent of ECU tuning, it would be false gains. However, if someone's intent is to just add bolt ons with no tuning....... then it would be a great addition.

Again......dyno's don't lie. We'll see what it says this week.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Josh@STILLEN View Post
Hi Denny!

Good to hear from you. As was posted in all of our posts in this thread, we're in final production, with mid-march being the latest they would be shipping. It's been less than 2 weeks since we last conversed, but I'm sure you'd agree that we won't amount to "lots of noise and no intake".. just give me a little bit of time.

We're excited for you to test the intake... as soon as I have more information, I will keep you guys updated.
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Old 03-03-2009, 12:34 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Did the intakes change the A/F ratio from stock at all?
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