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Another DIY Twin Turbo kit (COMP oil-less turbos)

couldn't the turbos get really hot if the plate/shield is blocking air flow passing on the turbos?

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Old 12-13-2014, 05:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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couldn't the turbos get really hot if the plate/shield is blocking air flow passing on the turbos?
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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On a top mount kit the turbo doesnt have any air blowing by it and its sitting in the hot engine bay.
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Old 12-13-2014, 06:36 PM   #3 (permalink)
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On a top mount kit the turbo doesnt have any air blowing by it and its sitting in the hot engine bay.
Don't most sit under or in front of the engine, right behind the bumper?
Im only asking.... Usually systems are designed a certain way for most air flow possible....
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Old 12-13-2014, 07:35 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Don't most sit under or in front of the engine, right behind the bumper?
Im only asking.... Usually systems are designed a certain way for most air flow possible....
Most twins for this platform (Z34) have the snails coming off the headers right next to the motor. *Think between the strut towers and the motor block.



*this is just an approximate area and not exact. It will give you a good idea where most twins are mounted.
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Old 12-14-2014, 01:55 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Luciano13 View Post
Don't most sit under or in front of the engine, right behind the bumper?
Im only asking.... Usually systems are designed a certain way for most air flow possible....
In mine it sat right there under the bov.
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Old 12-15-2014, 04:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Top speed pro 1. I dont recommend this exhaust to anyone since fitment was shitty, the driver side tip sat 1.5" lower than the passenger. I had to reweld the hanger to get the height even on both sides.



Then my charge pipes were made.





I modified the Y pipe to fit the turbo discharge. However I made the mistake of welding one of the o2 bung at the wrong angle and ended up unable to install the sensor. I will plug up the bungs for now and weld another Y pipe down the road.







Question for uprev users: if i disable the catalyst o2 sensors so that the code doesnt trip the CEL, will I still be able to pass inspection? Wishful thinking but I want to eliminate the post cat sensors all together.
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Old 12-15-2014, 12:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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For emissions, it depends what state and county you are in. Here in Chicago, I would fail emissions with the O2 sensors turned off. I would have to turn them on and drive it till it is OBDII ready. Right when it is ready is when there is a small window of opportunity to pass.
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:41 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Good looking work man! Any dyno/tuning plans?
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Old 12-15-2014, 08:36 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Good looking work man! Any dyno/tuning plans?
I will have to wait until I get the oil cooler installed. I cant do repeated pulls especially when the car isnt moving on the dyno. I still need to add bracings for the turbos and make a skid plate. On top of that, I will have to reweld my Y pipe. My budget isnt exactly unlimited, so things will tend to be slowed down from here on.
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Old 12-14-2014, 02:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Well boys, shes back down on the ground and I went for a quick spin off boost. Needless to say Im thrilled this project is coming close to be done. More pictures are on the way later.

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Old 12-14-2014, 03:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Damn! That was quick. Monday dyno then vids? :-)
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:16 PM   #12 (permalink)
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1st and 2nd gear ~ 70% throttle with traction control on. Running off wastegate pressure around 9-10 psi (dont have gauge to verify). Timing is fairly conservative at 17. Got air fuel to be around 11.5-12 still rough but I only spent an hour to street tune it. Turbos initially are sooooo laggy, cant even hear blow off valves go off. Then after a couple of pulls to soften up the grease in the center housing, it became so much better in response and noise! Im guessing full boost is before 3.5k right now in 4th gear, but it will get better once I break it in further. It will go sideways with half throttle in 2nd if traction control is off. Just insane.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=bi1NHBzcx...e_gdata_player
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Old 12-16-2014, 08:14 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by thangcu35 View Post
Turbos initially are sooooo laggy, cant even hear blow off valves go off. Then after a couple of pulls to soften up the grease in the center housing, it became so much better in response and noise!
Is that how those are supposed to be, or do they just need miles to break in?
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Old 12-16-2014, 02:51 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Is that how those are supposed to be, or do they just need miles to break in?
The turbos were tightly packed with grease from Comp. I could barely spin the shaft with hand when it was off the car. However after about 100 miles or so the grease will spread out and the shaft will spin effortless. I have seen a video documenting at 100 miles the turbo continues to spin for 10 seconds after shut off, and after 500 miles it spun for 25s. I will have to do a quick regrease every 4000-5000 miles or so. Their special high speed grease is expensive as hell though.
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Old 12-25-2014, 04:22 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Rewelded the Y pipe. Transition is much smoother and welds are fairly decent looking. Also deleted resonators.

Here's a sound clip I recorded. I had to hear how it sounds from the outside.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BSjq...ature=youtu.be



I had some spare aluminum bars laying around so I added two braces for the front bumper since I'm not running any undertray. This added significant rigidity to the bumper.



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