Another DIY Twin Turbo kit (COMP oil-less turbos)
 

Hi, I'm relatively a new member here. I bought my 2012 Sport/Tour/Nav 370z back in May 2014 and I've pulled the trigger to make my own twin turbo kit. I've been building engines/turbo kits for a couple of cars that I've owned in the past. I'm also a seasonal tuner that have experience with AEM EMS, Haltech, Power FC, Megasquirt and now most recently Uprev. What inspired me to make my own instead of purchasing a kit for the Z is due to a few reasons. First, I do not wish to remove my engine to install/remove the turbos. I will make an extention to the OEM manifolds and mount the turbos in OEM cats location. The 2nd reason is that I want to retain the factory crash bar. I'm aware that GTM is among the few company that offers a kit to retain the factory crash bar, however their reputation has been FUBAR. The 3rd reason is that I can TIG weld (amateur level) and I enjoy working on my own car.

Here is the project car with 2014 Nismo converted theme.

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...o/DSC01876.JPG

Some of the parts I have collected. Thanks BBRspeedworks for the custom SS 3 bolt flanges.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-U...o/IMG_0199.JPG

After careful consideration, I've decided to use COMP oil-less turbos (equilvalent to GTX2863r) 430bhp. This is my first time using these oil-less turbos, but I've only seen good results from them. The cartridge is internally lubricated with a special type of grease and require no source of oil. This allows me to mount the turbo at any level and any where that I can squeeze it in. It is water cooled (mandatory), and has a grease fitting that can be use to re-grease every 3000-5000 miles (oil change intervals).

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-2...o/IMG_0204.JPG


They machine Garrett turbine housing to fit their turbine wheels.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-6...o/IMG_0206.JPG


Grease fitting to be use with any grease gun.

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4...o/IMG_0203.JPG


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-a...o/IMG_0207.JPG


My goal for this build is 500-550whp daily driveable on pump gas, full boost before 3.3k rpm, and fun instant response. The turbos will be easily serviceable, and routing will work with any cat back exhaust.

The rundown:

- Stock VQ37
- Uprev tuner
- Comp oil-less billet turbos, .64AR turbine, compressor rated for 430hp.
- Treadstone's high density IC cores 12.5"x6"x3.5" support up to 500hp each.
- All stainless construction, 11g thick tubing.
- Internal wastegates set at 10psi (save space and cost vs external)
- 2" pre IC piping, 2.75" post IC piping, high rise MAF adapter
- Synchronic R35V BOV
- 850cc Bosch EV14 PnP injectors
- Aeromotive 340lph fuel pump + CJM install kit, stock returnless

Currently my car drives on Zspeed CSC, Southbend flywheel, Exedy pressure plate, and ACT 6 pucks. Yes, this is a very complicated clutch setup, but I want the most reliable/softest performance pressure plate for driving comfort. The pedal feels almost stock like but it grips like a mad mother. This has to be my favorite combination in any car I've driven.

Once I'm done welding up the IC cores, I can work on mounting the turbos. I managed to get uprev running great on 850cc injectors, but a full retune is in order once I upgrade to 2.75" MAF piping along with the bigger fuel pump. Stay tuned.

Subbed. Looking good already

Subbed

Subd! Curious to see how this turns out

Sub'd. Good luck with everything!

Subd :tup:

Out of curiosity, you are running a turbo rated at 430bhp and shooting for 500-550wheel? Wont the turbo fall on its face, cant flow enough? Whats the compressor map look like?

430hp x2 :tup:

430hp per turbo, I'm running twins which combine to approx 850hp. These turbos will make 600whp on pump gas easily, and 700+whp on E85. The inducer is 47mm and exducer 63mm, same specs as the GTX2863r. The main difference is that it's a billet 7+7 blade wheel verses Garrett's billet 11+0 wheel. I specifically want the 7+7 because it has better efficiency when running at lower pressure ratio.



I had some time this evening to finish up on the intercoolers. Not the prettiest welds since this is my 2nd time welding aluminum but I made sure the welds are leak proof.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-_...58629267_n.jpg

hey man no problem. i hope you liked them...and let me know if theres anything else you need.. good luck with your build man....Pm me if you need anytime

Question on the turbo's. When you grease them. Where does the old grease go to. Does the housing have a plug that you remove for the grease to come out of? Or does it come out of the shaft seals?

When welding aluminum. Make sure that there is no dirt or oil/grease on the joint. It's got to be clean. When you are done. Are you pressure testing the welds? Checking for leaks with Leak Check or soapy water?

I'm an old TIG welder. :D

Thanks for the great advices. Ill be pressure testing them using one of the turbo leak tester and submerge the ic under water.

Regarding the turbo, i also asked the comp turbo tech that same question. They told me that it does evaporate very slowly (didnt specify through where). They said every 3000-5000 miles just use a grease gun and pump about 3-4 times and thats more than enough to keep it full. The grease fitting looks like its removable.

Sub'd.

A lot of the equipment I work on has a grease fitting on one side and a plug on the other side. Remove the plug and grease through the fitting. When grease comes out of the plug hole. You're done. Run equipment until it gets hot with the plug remove. Shut down and install plug. This way no grease is being forced past the seals when the grease gets hot. Also I never knew that grease evaporates. It just turns to wax with heat in my experience. ;)

Wish you luck with your project. Can't wait to see it come to life. :tup:

Nice!! but your missing the gray mirrors for your '14 theme lol jp...sweet looking car and best of luck with your build, keep us updated!:tup: