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Originally Posted by COSMO I should be able to recharge it using the low side line.. Don't take anything to the corner mechanic.. I would probably take it and have
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#1 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Location: Houston
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You could try doing it yourself. I believe you fill thru the low and bleed out the high but to be honest I didn't pay that much attention to what my tuner was doing considering I didn't have the tools needed to do it myself. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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The radiator from csf didn't come with any instructions so I'm needing to know what you guys had to do with your csf radiator to get in charged for the a/c? I know to use the low side but didn't know the radiator had special instructions concerning the a/c and condenser..
Last edited by COSMO; 07-07-2014 at 05:14 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Mine didn't have any instructions either. My tuner just told me to blow compressed air thru the condenser to make sure nothing was in it and reconnect the lines. That's all I did.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Yes, you need to pull a vacuum on the system once you connect it back up. It will remove the air will also help you check for leaks. This will prevent contamination of the system. IF you get an air pocket in the system you will see an increase in pressure while the system runs. It will rise up and fall as the air passes through. You can vacuum the system with a machine or gauge set with a vacuum pump. The best way is with an R134a A/C machine. You can then put the correct weight of refrigerant in the system and oil, if needed. If you have a good amount of miles on the car, It is a good idea to replace the receiver dryer. This is the filter for the system. It filters out all of the moisture and trash.
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#7 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Sorry but sold my old house and my car is at a friends house. The only thing needed is to bleed the clutch and fill with antifreeze. The gtm base map is in there so I will run that long enough for the engine break-in then go to tampa for my final tune and install my 1000cc injectors.. This really sucks because I'm so close....
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#9 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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What did you end up doing with your cracked exhaust manifold? Sorry if it was already posted and I missed it.
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2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT || HKS EVC6 || Custom CarPC || F.I 3'' TDX CBE || SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC || BC BR Coilovers || SPC camber arms || Work VSS-X || Custom Headlights || PW:JDM CF Covers || Seibon CF Engine Cover ] |
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#11 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Update for an awful day with my car. To make a long story short I found out that when my vsr built my motor they did not replace my rear main seal. Needless to say when I went to start the car today oil was coming out at a steady stream. Is it just me or wouldn't you think they would have replaced that when rebuilding my new motor? At this point I'm Disgusted.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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#13 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#15 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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You can actually see the rtv pushed out where it is connected so I think it's just a faulty seal. He tried to say that I should have noticed it and used my old rear main seal to into the new motor. At that point I went off.....
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