Blown Motor, Engine Rebuild/Replacement.

COSMO · 03-19-2014, 07:19 AM

Thinking about going with this specific oil just for my break-in.

Amazon.com: COMP Cams 1590 10W30 Break-In Engine Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2014, 07:26 AM

Joe Gibbs makes one like that too if I remember correctly.

COSMO · 03-19-2014, 07:35 AM

Found it...

Amazon.com: Joe Gibbs 01806 BR-30 5W-30 Break-In Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2014, 07:39 AM

What's the procedure with that? Run it for the first few hundred miles and then dump it for nonsynthetic for the rest of the break in period?

I guess it depends on VSR and what they recommend.

DEpointfive0 · 03-19-2014, 07:45 AM

I believe break in oil is only for flat tapped motors with a shít load of ZDDP making it not ok for cars with cats. (I don't think you do, so you should be ok to run it I guess)

I'd run:
Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment - 300 ml : Amazon.com : Automotive

Or maybe 2 bottles of it and call it a day, maybe their more expensive one CeraTec.
(Yes. I use LiquiMoly, and like the product very much, tempted to use their 0W-30 oil, but all my oil changes are prepaid anyways)

COSMO · 03-19-2014, 07:49 AM

As long as it is Conventional Motor Oil it should be fine. But yea, 300-500 then do an oil change then maybe another 3-4k miles with the Conventional Motor Oil, change then go with a good synthetic like motul...

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2014, 07:53 AM

Do they recommend you change the oil after the fist couple of heat cycles before you even take it out on the road? I've seen some engine builders recommend that you start the motor, let it idle for 20-30 min and then dump the oil.

COSMO · 03-19-2014, 07:55 AM

Forgot to post that but yes he did recommend starting it for the first time and allowing it to idle for about 30 min then drop the oil and proceed with the details on my last post.. Hey it's still early..

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Do they recommend you change the oil after the fist couple of heat cycles before you even take it out on the road? I've seen some engine builders recommend that you start the motor, let it idle for 20-30 min and then dump the oil.

DEpointfive0 · 03-19-2014, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cosmogirl

As long as it is Conventional Motor Oil it should be fine. But yea, 300-500 then do an oil change then maybe another 3-4k miles with the Conventional Motor Oil, change then go with a good synthetic like motul...

I don't know why that would matter anymore. I think that's old wisdom still seeping through

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Do they recommend you change the oil after the fist couple of heat cycles before you even take it out on the road? I've seen some engine builders recommend that you start the motor, let it idle for 20-30 min and then dump the oil.

When Mobil 1 and a crap Fram filter is $29 Walmart, I don't see why you wouldn't do that. Hell, let's double it because I don't know how much the OP's system holds)

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2014, 07:57 AM

I'm very curious how it's going to sound, especially when it's cold. I've heard built motors that sounded as quiet as stock, and I've heard some that clattered like a diesel. I guess it depends on what kind of clearance they ran on the pistons.

esfourteen · 03-19-2014, 08:18 AM

I definitely underestimated how restricted that manifold exit was compared to the turbo flange, just called my shop to make sure they hadn't bolted the turbos up yet and fortunately I caught them before so they are going to grind that out as well, good catch!

As for break in, we used a pressurized lubricator that connects to the block and forces oil everywhere (no dry cranking) along with a break in oil for start up, after 20-30 minutes of running that at ~2k rpm, we drained it and replaced with conventional oil for the first 500, changed that for conventional again and left it until about 4-5k.

Once I swapped to synthetic at 5k I noticed my valve train noise from VVEL was MUCH louder than it was prior to the build and when I was breaking in the engine. I don't know if it was the break in oil or just the whole process but VVEL is noisy as hell now. I used an additive by RS-R called "ran up" and it was night and day difference, sounded like stock again, so I'm going to try ester oil to see if its quieter.

DEpointfive0 · 03-19-2014, 08:25 AM

^RSR Ran Up oil is BULLLLLLSHIT.
Get the one I recommended. Disadvantage is that it won't thin your oil like the other stuff. But it's the same additives

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2014, 08:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

^RSR Ran Up oil is BULLLLLLSHIT.
Get the one I recommended. Disadvantage is that it won't thin your oil like the other stuff. But it's the same additives

Dammit man, now I have to go over to bob is the oil guy and read up on it. That place makes my head hurt.

DEpointfive0 · 03-19-2014, 08:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

Dammit man, now I have to go over to bob is the oil guy and read up on it. That place makes my head hurt.

It's a replacement quart of 0W20 and hi tech NASA used lubricants... AKA molybdenum...
So the 0W20 is why you get the 1-5hp increase, and the Mo is why it quiets the engine

Chuck33079 · 03-19-2014, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DEpointfive0

It's a replacement quart of 0W20 and hi tech NASA used lubricants... AKA molybdenum...
So the 0W20 is why you get the 1-5hp increase, and the Mo is why it quiets the engine

So it's 300 ml of 0-20 and some moly?

03-19-2014, 07:26 AM	#2 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Joe Gibbs makes one like that too if I remember correctly. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-19-2014, 07:39 AM	#4 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	What's the procedure with that? Run it for the first few hundred miles and then dump it for nonsynthetic for the rest of the break in period? I guess it depends on VSR and what they recommend. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-19-2014, 07:45 AM	#5 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17153	I believe break in oil is only for flat tapped motors with a shít load of ZDDP making it not ok for cars with cats. (I don't think you do, so you should be ok to run it I guess) I'd run: Liqui Moly 2009 Anti-Friction Oil Treatment - 300 ml : Amazon.com : Automotive Or maybe 2 bottles of it and call it a day, maybe their more expensive one CeraTec. (Yes. I use LiquiMoly, and like the product very much, tempted to use their 0W-30 oil, but all my oil changes are prepaid anyways) __________________ Do YOU want to know what/where I got my username from? ( Click to show/hide ) NSFW due to language:

03-19-2014, 07:53 AM	#7 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	Do they recommend you change the oil after the fist couple of heat cycles before you even take it out on the road? I've seen some engine builders recommend that you start the motor, let it idle for 20-30 min and then dump the oil. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-19-2014, 07:57 AM	#10 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29540	I'm very curious how it's going to sound, especially when it's cold. I've heard built motors that sounded as quiet as stock, and I've heard some that clattered like a diesel. I guess it depends on what kind of clearance they ran on the pistons. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

03-19-2014, 07:19 AM	#1 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 21	Thinking about going with this specific oil just for my break-in. Amazon.com: COMP Cams 1590 10W30 Break-In Engine Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

03-19-2014, 07:35 AM	#3 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 21	Found it... Amazon.com: Joe Gibbs 01806 BR-30 5W-30 Break-In Motor Oil - 1 Quart Bottle: Automotive

03-19-2014, 07:49 AM	#6 (permalink)
COSMO A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: FL Posts: 1,816 Drives: 2012 Touring GTM TT Rep Power: 21	As long as it is Conventional Motor Oil it should be fine. But yea, 300-500 then do an oil change then maybe another 3-4k miles with the Conventional Motor Oil, change then go with a good synthetic like motul...

03-19-2014, 08:18 AM	#11 (permalink)
esfourteen A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: LI, NY Posts: 1,375 Drives: 40th TT Rep Power: 20	I definitely underestimated how restricted that manifold exit was compared to the turbo flange, just called my shop to make sure they hadn't bolted the turbos up yet and fortunately I caught them before so they are going to grind that out as well, good catch! As for break in, we used a pressurized lubricator that connects to the block and forces oil everywhere (no dry cranking) along with a break in oil for start up, after 20-30 minutes of running that at ~2k rpm, we drained it and replaced with conventional oil for the first 500, changed that for conventional again and left it until about 4-5k. Once I swapped to synthetic at 5k I noticed my valve train noise from VVEL was MUCH louder than it was prior to the build and when I was breaking in the engine. I don't know if it was the break in oil or just the whole process but VVEL is noisy as hell now. I used an additive by RS-R called "ran up" and it was night and day difference, sounded like stock again, so I'm going to try ester oil to see if its quieter. __________________ Build Thread \| GTM TT Install Thread \| Engine Build Thread

03-19-2014, 08:25 AM	#12 (permalink)
DEpointfive0 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2012 Location: SoCal Posts: 14,824 Drives: a lot Rep Power: 17153	^RSR Ran Up oil is BULLLLLLSHIT. Get the one I recommended. Disadvantage is that it won't thin your oil like the other stuff. But it's the same additives __________________ Do YOU want to know what/where I got my username from? ( Click to show/hide ) NSFW due to language:

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