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My Z is my only car and is my DD. That said I have my girl's Tahoe as well. I drive my car like I stole it most of the
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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My Z is my only car and is my DD. That said I have my girl's Tahoe as well. I drive my car like I stole it most of the time. Maintenance is the key. As long as you are very familiar with your machine, you can diagnose possible issues before they arise. As far as boost goes, I am running 0.5 BAR (about 7.2-7.5 PSI) on low setting and 0.9 BAR (13ish PSI) on high setting. With that said, it all depends on your right foot. I don't break out with 6k RPM launches and WOT blasts regularly. Driving habits and maintenance are the keys to a DD TT Z. Have fun..........and don't forget about the "Oh ****" fund.
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: San Diego CA
Posts: 1,103
Drives: Classified
Rep Power: 16 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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if you are DDing your car, i would go with a supercharger, whether its a stillen or GTM kit, a supercharger will allow you to keep a similar powerband to the stock car because boost is matching the revs unlike a turbo where you are N/A until your spool point then you get there, you get a sudden torque surge(but that is all relative to your build and what type of turbos you are using, smaller turbos=better spool time but less top end, while bigger turbos=longer spool times but better top end)
imo you could go with either the stillen supercharger kit or the GTM 1.5 supercharger kit and be happy, both make lots of power under the curve which is what you want in a street build |
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#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: May 2011
Location: KCMO
Posts: 3,458
Drives: 09 370z S/T 6MT
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mine s jsut a weekend car. i am getting the new gtm tt kit. and i'm confident that i can get by with a 25 row cooler and their larger capacity oil pan. now, on the other hand, if u go boosted and are constantly getting into boost while cruising around, u will see temps rise in a hurry. its all about how u drive
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09 370Z ST 6MT//Injen CAI//Greddy CBE//TP//TSW's//Swifts//Stillen lip//Whiteline sways 326whp/268tq ![]() |
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
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#9 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 43 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Thanks to one of the threads here regarding the coolant bleed cap, I'm going to get my coolant flushed again. My last tech didn't know about it after doing the heater core flush and only burped the system. I still hear bubbling in the core, and the car wants to overheat when ambient is at least 90F. When I picked it up in Houston, it can survive 100F+ temps without overheating.
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#10 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Dubai
Posts: 2,532
Drives: Z34/240z/Hakosuka
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Still evaluating the timeline either to install tune now or wait till september when it starts cooling a bit. |
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#11 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 30,879
Drives: 370z
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If it is that big of a concern then you might consider running 2 tunes. One for the high heat and one for super cold days. In Texas we usually are in the 70+ area for all the year so I run one tune and had it done in 100 degree heat, but always curious what a colder 60 degree day dyno run & tune could produce.
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theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram |
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#12 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: In the D
Posts: 3,732
Drives: v8 74 260z ;)
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just remember blowing up and wearing out are two different things. have the motor compression or leakdown tested to so where it stands now if you are worried about the condition of it. barring a few cases i'm sure its fine but best to know before you do it. if it does come in on the low side you know a rebuild may be in your future.
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#13 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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It's funny that you mention 2 tunes. I was just going to comment on how my single 34 row OC handles the awesome TX heat, but now I want to comment on multiple tunes. I have found that my low boost tune suffers from increased heat soak as opposed to my high boost tune that seems to be the more preferred one of the 2 for me. I have a strange stumble on the transition to positive boost pressure differential on low and almost nonexistent on high. But I think I have a vac leak and O2 sensor issues as well (just an intuitive guess) that I will be hunting down @ UPREV late this week or early next week.
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