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GTM Performance Engineering: MHI Twin Turbo Official Release

Originally Posted by phunk The HKS EVC6 has boost by speed. I have never used it personally but there are several references to it in the installation manual Mmhmm. I

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Old 01-14-2014, 09:29 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
The HKS EVC6 has boost by speed. I have never used it personally but there are several references to it in the installation manual
Mmhmm. I plan on setting up my EVC6 for the boost by speed and slow the ramp up down in the first and possibly the second gear speeds so it's controllable from low speeds. I have faith I can make the car behave like a very powerful OEM car.
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Old 01-13-2014, 03:53 PM   #2 (permalink)
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No doubt that the EVC6 and the GReddy are nice. If you're looking for an EBC that's less expensive but still has plenty of features, try looking at the Go Fast Bits G-Force II. I've heard nothing but great reviews on it.

I picked one up but haven't had a chance to install it yet. There are a few people with it on the forums, just can't remember the exact names.

http://www.gfb.com.au/products/boost...troller-by-gfb
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Old 01-14-2014, 09:48 AM   #3 (permalink)
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These cars have the crappiest IRS configuration for dealing with high power. If you want to not spin in first and second you have to really dial the power back. If you take it up to over around 550rw, 3rd gear is useless without race compound tires. Factory powerful cars have a more ideal control arm arrangement that doesnt camber in another 3 degrees when you floor it.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
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These cars have the crappiest IRS configuration for dealing with high power. If you want to not spin in first and second you have to really dial the power back. If you take it up to over around 550rw, 3rd gear is useless without race compound tires. Factory powerful cars have a more ideal control arm arrangement that doesnt camber in another 3 degrees when you floor it.
I agree - the camber gain on the car is quite high. Of course, we are set with the pickup points we were given, so we gotta deal with it.

I think most of the traction issues can still be solved with a linear, slowed boost ramp-up and proper suspension set-up. Maybe switch the compound in the rear to a Toyo R888 or equivalent? If it were me and it was a drag event, I would even consider a positive camber setup for the rear. But either way, my car is just going to be a 500-550~ whp street car for myself, so it's nothing too competitive.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:44 AM   #5 (permalink)
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I agree - the camber gain on the car is quite high. Of course, we are set with the pickup points we were given, so we gotta deal with it.

I think most of the traction issues can still be solved with a linear, slowed boost ramp-up and proper suspension set-up. Maybe switch the compound in the rear to a Toyo R888 or equivalent? If it were me and it was a drag event, I would even consider a positive camber setup for the rear. But either way, my car is just going to be a 500-550~ whp street car for myself, so it's nothing too competitive.
R888 made a HUGE difference for me at ~600whp, 2nd hooks much better with a bit of spin up top but never really steps out, 3rd is no longer an issue. I also have a 3.5 FD, quaife LSD, and whiteline diff bushings. the bushings alone almost eliminated wheel hop entirely which makes a huge difference.
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Old 01-14-2014, 10:44 AM   #6 (permalink)
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My car is no turbo, but the centrifugal powerband really helps traction issues. I'm running stock re50's and first is the only constant issue when flat footing over 3500. Second gear is problematic in the cold and will spin after 5k. Normal driving is as docile as stock. Im thinking that some better rubber can fix most of it. You all and your turbos hit peak tq much lower and carry it to at least 6k before it starts dropping.
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Old 01-14-2014, 12:14 PM   #7 (permalink)
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R888s in 305 30 19 I would spin through 3rd. Toyo TQ drag radial in 315/35/18 hook a little better. This is with like -1.0 or so baseline camber. I feel like the fresh Toyo R compound tires stop hooking so well after 2-3 weeks of daily driver duty.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:28 PM   #8 (permalink)
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RE-11s seem like the best balance - less noise, a bit longer lasting than the R888s, not quite as sticky but R888s lost their grip as they got old. SPL mid links have helped me keep the car straight even when it spins... able to maintain toe in spec even with zero camber.
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Old 01-14-2014, 11:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I couldn't wait to get rid of my RE11s and my mileage from them was less than r888s due to constant spinning .

Glad I'm not the only one that feels like r888s harden up And loose their grip quickly.
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Old 01-15-2014, 12:14 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by phunk View Post
I couldn't wait to get rid of my RE11s and my mileage from them was less than r888s due to constant spinning .

Glad I'm not the only one that feels like r888s harden up And loose their grip quickly.
RE11 is not good at all. Have my 2012 Carrera S modified and tuned at 449whp and the tires spin all day long during hard acceleration ( with no launch control ). Tire size was 305-30-19. Upgraded to R888 same size and when tires started to moderately warmed up, I could launch at 4000 rpm no slip detectable at all. R888 is basically the best bang for the bucks since it is acceptably quiet and it DOES grip HARD. I was gonna think about the Michelin Pilot Sports cup next and make a comparison But they are much more costly than R888.....
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Old 01-16-2014, 01:27 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1slow370 View Post
just remember the r888 treadwear of 100 is a lie, they die QUICK.
Being stickier than rated is a good thing!

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I couldn't wait to get rid of my RE11s and my mileage from them was less than r888s due to constant spinning .

Glad I'm not the only one that feels like r888s harden up And loose their grip quickly.
Even in the summer they were spinning for you? Temps are a good bit hotter here in NC than IL and I found the RE-11 are not that bad (in the summer). I felt I could get R888s overheated and spinning in the summer here, but maybe that was because they were old at that point (about 12k miles!).

Anyway, I have not heard of anyone (with first hand experience) recommending tires that outperform the RE-11s (other than R888s) as far as street tires are concerned. I am considering trying competition tires (below 100 tread wear rating, e.g. Pilot Sport Cup+, etc).
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:04 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Being stickier than rated is a good thing!



Even in the summer they were spinning for you? Temps are a good bit hotter here in NC than IL and I found the RE-11 are not that bad (in the summer). I felt I could get R888s overheated and spinning in the summer here, but maybe that was because they were old at that point (about 12k miles!).

Anyway, I have not heard of anyone (with first hand experience) recommending tires that outperform the RE-11s (other than R888s) as far as street tires are concerned. I am considering trying competition tires (below 100 tread wear rating, e.g. Pilot Sport Cup+, etc).
only if you have the money to replace your tires ever 3-7k miles
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:10 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I'm running Nitto Invo's on mine, they are pretty decent for NA but don't think they will hold up to the extra power after turbo install, they are however much better than the RE11's, less road noise and much better in dry and also the wet.

not sure what I'll try next, I've also tried Pirelli p-zero Nero, stay the hell away from these LOL.
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:13 PM   #14 (permalink)
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How did you know Invo tire is better than RE11?
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Old 01-15-2014, 04:15 PM   #15 (permalink)
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How did you know Invo tire is better than RE11?
I have a hard time believing this as well.. My 305/30/19 Michelin PSS's are doing pretty well in warmer temps in 2nd gear @ 8PSI
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