370z Forced Induction for Noobs...

1slow370 · 01-15-2014, 10:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SS_Firehawk

When I have the balls and money to build the motor

It has a 92mm's and there are 84mm's available. That'd be an extra 100whp I'd imagine. I accept donations for any that are curious :P

I think they can down to a 72 if you really want to push it

1slow370 · 01-16-2014, 02:34 AM

My note is more application specific that is why it is in the 370z FI for noobs not the other FI for noobs. That is exactly what happens on the Z. Yes a free flowing exhaust does increase scavenging but on our cars the cam timing and duration cause this to happen. What you say about muffstains is true I have seen that, but as for camming on the mustang the overlap is much less aggressive and the head flows like **** to start with so it is a totally different platform. And the reason turbos don't run into this issue on our cars is one turbo's generate the back pressure to keep the boost in the motor and they do it proportionally to the amount of intake pressure so that as boost pressure rises so does back pressure(that is main reason manifold temp and pressure skyrocket on a turbo car and egt's become that much more important), and two the turbo will spool up to the set boost pressure regardless of head flow. Boost pressure is pressure in the intake pipe nothing more nothing less, so wether you are losing two psi because the cylinder is scavenged better and needs more intake charge to fill or you lose 2 psi because it blows right out the exhaust valve the gauge is still gonna read 2psi lost but the dyno will show the difference. SOOOO sorry to say this but while your statement is grounded in truth and i acknowledge that, it does not work on our application, I even stated it in a for noobs way at the end of my post, you fix the valve overlap and you can get the better scavenging of the LTH's without wasting the intake charge by blowing out the exhaust.

Subnote:The cams in the 370z are pretty much optimal for it's NA size and use thats why jun needed to go .030 over and bump the compression to get a big result out of theirs this means that a F.I. longtube which pretty much taps the car out NA, has way to much flow for the cams overlap and lift for the engines bore size and leads to boost wasting

1slow370 · 01-26-2014, 05:58 PM

the superchargers are usually lower maintenance because the kits are simpler and are less stressful on the engine when work needs to be done it is usually easier to take the supercharger kit apart to do the work. also because of the temperatures involved and the internal lubrication supercharger units themselves are less prone to failure

elperuano · 01-26-2014, 06:19 PM

BP kit would make maintenance very simple as well.

carlitos_370z · 02-21-2014, 08:42 AM

awesome thread!!!

NoLaKrewe · 08-12-2014, 08:44 PM

Let me ask this question as I am a noobie and been doing a lot of research. I don't own a Z yet but I pre plan builds before buying my car. With this said, I plan to autocross with the car a lot and I also do love a nice straightway get up and go. I've been doing a lot of reading on these threads but I still never get a clear answer.

So for a 60/40 interest split. 60 being autocross and 40 straightway speed. What is the best option in terms of FI. I know TT is the better in terms of Turbo for what I want but I never see too many people factor in super chargers. What are they best for?

370zrider · 10-07-2014, 11:28 AM

From what I've read here, when you install a turbo kit without BOOST CONTROLLER you can only have like 6psi but when you get one installed you may go like 10psi or further… is this right?

.

jwick · 10-07-2014, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 370zrider

From what I've read here, when you install a turbo kit without BOOST CONTROLLER you can only have like 6psi but when you get one installed you may go like 10psi or further… is this right?

.

No. Boost pressure is based on the wastegate spring you are running. You can have either internal or external wastegates. I'm going to ignore internal because I don't like them, and I'm running external. Your external wastegates are going to come with a bunch of different springs that you can mix and match to get you to the desired boost level. A boost controller allows you to run a set additional amount of boost on top of the wastegate level. As for how much additional you can run it varies depending on if you have a manual or electronic boost control. All the electronic boost controllers I know of limit you to adding 100% of wastegate pressure, so if you have a 6lb spring the max you can run with boost control would be 12lbs. I've never run a manual but I don't believe they have the same restriction.

theDreamer · 04-02-2015, 11:02 AM

Updated a few things, GTM items have all been moved to an 'out of business' section but details are still available.

If there are new details people would like added please share.

Edit: Also added AAM's kit as I realized I never put all the details for them in this thread.

SDatl404 · 05-13-2015, 09:04 AM

Just curious what everyday hard driving would do to reliability when boosted. Like transmission, rear end, driveshaft, ect. Can you still drive the car hard or is it going to pop something when you turn the boost up?

jwick · 05-13-2015, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDatl404

Just curious what everyday hard driving would do to reliability when boosted. Like transmission, rear end, driveshaft, ect. Can you still drive the car hard or is it going to pop something when you turn the boost up?

All depends on power level. The OEM drivetrain seems to be able to handle normal boosted (~500-600whp with proper fuel and tuning) without any major issues. It's likely that, from 'hard' driving, it's the motor that is likely to let go first.

My tuner did blow out a rear diff but it was on an E85 tune with over 600whp and coilover/chamber settings to make it hook-up.

Things can still break as you are talking about boosting a factory NA car, but this platform has shown it likes boost

TerribleONE · 05-13-2015, 09:11 AM

I have about 5k miles of hard driving on mine with no issues except that my face hurts from smiling so much.

jwick · 05-13-2015, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TerribleONE

I have about 5k miles of hard driving on mine with no issues except that my face hurts from smiling so much.

I'm at about that many miles and mine is a garage toy. It only comes out when it's time to play.

SDatl404 · 05-13-2015, 09:14 AM

Thanks for the info. I want to boost. Nothing crazy maybe 500 rwhp, but I was worried about the car grenading if I wanted to do some spirited driving on a road trip.

jwick · 05-13-2015, 09:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SDatl404

Thanks for the info. I want to boost. Nothing crazy maybe 500 rwhp, but I was worried about the car grenading if I wanted to do some spirited driving on a road trip.

Do your research and buy a good kit. Have it installed by a good shop and make sure you have a quality tune. If you do that then it should be reasonably reliable.

But always keep an 'oh shit' fund handy as you boost a NA car and you are always playing with fire.

01-16-2014, 02:34 AM	#2 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	My note is more application specific that is why it is in the 370z FI for noobs not the other FI for noobs. That is exactly what happens on the Z. Yes a free flowing exhaust does increase scavenging but on our cars the cam timing and duration cause this to happen. What you say about muffstains is true I have seen that, but as for camming on the mustang the overlap is much less aggressive and the head flows like ** to start with so it is a totally different platform. And the reason turbos don't run into this issue on our cars is one turbo's generate the back pressure to keep the boost in the motor and they do it proportionally to the amount of intake pressure so that as boost pressure rises so does back pressure(that is main reason manifold temp and pressure skyrocket on a turbo car and egt's become that much more important), and two the turbo will spool up to the set boost pressure regardless of head flow. Boost pressure is pressure in the intake pipe nothing more nothing less, so wether you are losing two psi because the cylinder is scavenged better and needs more intake charge to fill or you lose 2 psi because it blows right out the exhaust valve the gauge is still gonna read 2psi lost but the dyno will show the difference. SOOOO sorry to say this but while your statement is grounded in truth and i acknowledge that, it does not work on our application, I even stated it in a for noobs way at the end of my post, you fix the valve overlap and you can get the better scavenging of the LTH's without wasting the intake charge by blowing out the exhaust. Subnote:The cams in the 370z are pretty much optimal for it's NA size and use thats why jun needed to go .030 over and bump the compression to get a big result out of theirs this means that a F.I. longtube which pretty much taps the car out NA, has way to much flow for the cams overlap and lift for the engines bore size and leads to boost wasting warpeacelove and KratikosG37 like this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST** Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50 Last edited by 1slow370; 01-16-2014 at 03:00 AM.

01-26-2014, 05:58 PM	#3 (permalink)
1slow370 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: In the D Posts: 3,732 Drives: v8 74 260z ;) Rep Power: 7251	the superchargers are usually lower maintenance because the kits are simpler and are less stressful on the engine when work needs to be done it is usually easier to take the supercharger kit apart to do the work. also because of the temperatures involved and the internal lubrication supercharger units themselves are less prone to failure KratikosG37 likes this. __________________ ANSWER PRICE LIST Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75 Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25 Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50

01-26-2014, 06:19 PM	#4 (permalink)
elperuano A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Southwest FL Posts: 1,374 Drives: G37S Rep Power: 29	BP kit would make maintenance very simple as well. Dzel likes this.

02-21-2014, 08:42 AM	#5 (permalink)
carlitos_370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Puerto Rico Posts: 7,157 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z SP M6 Rep Power: 7587	awesome thread!!! DOM_370z likes this.

08-12-2014, 08:44 PM	#6 (permalink)
NoLaKrewe Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: NoLa Posts: 469 Drives: 2011 FJ//2015 370z Rep Power: 14	Let me ask this question as I am a noobie and been doing a lot of research. I don't own a Z yet but I pre plan builds before buying my car. With this said, I plan to autocross with the car a lot and I also do love a nice straightway get up and go. I've been doing a lot of reading on these threads but I still never get a clear answer. So for a 60/40 interest split. 60 being autocross and 40 straightway speed. What is the best option in terms of FI. I know TT is the better in terms of Turbo for what I want but I never see too many people factor in super chargers. What are they best for? __________________ Starting a NoLa Z club https://www.facebook.com/groups/TheBigeZClub/ The struggle will be real!

10-07-2014, 11:28 AM	#7 (permalink)
370zrider Base Member Join Date: Sep 2012 Location: Mexico Posts: 106 Drives: 370zM6tour12nosport Rep Power: 13	From what I've read here, when you install a turbo kit without BOOST CONTROLLER you can only have like 6psi but when you get one installed you may go like 10psi or further… is this right? . __________________ Stillen [gen3 CAI + headers + HFC + Exhaust + UD Pulley + lightweight flywheel] + Uprev e-tune+ PC680 Odyssey battery + oil cooler + MishimotoThermostat = 312whp + 252wtq @1,500mts or 5,000ft elevation

04-02-2015, 11:02 AM	#9 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4211	Updated a few things, GTM items have all been moved to an 'out of business' section but details are still available. If there are new details people would like added please share. Edit: Also added AAM's kit as I realized I never put all the details for them in this thread. carlitos_370z and docabramson like this. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram Last edited by theDreamer; 04-02-2015 at 11:07 AM.

05-13-2015, 09:04 AM	#10 (permalink)
SDatl404 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Fort Lauderdale Posts: 7 Drives: 2015 M6 370z Rep Power: 11	Does boost break parts often? Just curious what everyday hard driving would do to reliability when boosted. Like transmission, rear end, driveshaft, ect. Can you still drive the car hard or is it going to pop something when you turn the boost up? AV8rZ likes this.

05-13-2015, 09:11 AM	#12 (permalink)
TerribleONE A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 10,203 Drives: WOT Rep Power: 5851	I have about 5k miles of hard driving on mine with no issues except that my face hurts from smiling so much. David Parra, jwick, 1LIFE and 5 others like this. __________________ 638WHP 541WTQ @ 13.5PSI Build thread

05-13-2015, 09:14 AM	#14 (permalink)
SDatl404 Base Member Join Date: Apr 2015 Location: Fort Lauderdale Posts: 7 Drives: 2015 M6 370z Rep Power: 11	Thanks for the info. I want to boost. Nothing crazy maybe 500 rwhp, but I was worried about the car grenading if I wanted to do some spirited driving on a road trip.

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