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Originally Posted by brucelidat 3) My concern is that not being mechanically knowledgeable car-wise, I'm not going to know what and how to check. Also, can someone tell me the
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#1 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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There is no 'other' turbo maintenance than what I mentioned above. You need to check for leaks (fluid/vacuum) and check all hoses/etc to make sure nothing is damaged (cut/dry rotted/heat damaged/etc.). The turbo gets it's oil/water cooling feed from the same places the engine does so when you change oil you are 'servicing' the turbo. Edit - If you want a low maintenance boosted car get one that is done that way from the factory |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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#3 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 14,532
Drives: '10 G37 6MT
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I completely agree that the manufacturer has to do their job in the original design. I was just pointing out that 'less' **** goes can go wrong on a factory boosted car. |
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#4 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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__________________
theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram |
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 14,532
Drives: '10 G37 6MT
Rep Power: 2465058 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Quote:
Oh you mean that thing I threw out before my first oil change
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#6 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Texas
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Quote:
![]() I kept mine for a good 10 months.
__________________
theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram |
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