Stillen supercharger long term reports

V1H

The Stillen SC kit is specifically designed to bolt onto a stock 370Z/G37.
But recommended add-ons are a 2.5" catback and an external engine oil cooler.
A boost gauge and A/F wideband gauge are optional additions, too.
You don't need to make any other preparations.
Stillen advises against headers or downpipe/cat upgrades.
I am gonna get my SC kit early next year, that's the plan anyway

Chuck33079

A larger heat exchanger is always helpful. I'd put an upgraded radiator on any boosted Z. And you really need a custom tune. The canned one leaves a lot to be desired.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

V1H

What radiator are you having in your mind? I was looking at the Mishimoto, 4cm core thickness. I just hope a thicker core fits with the SC kit.

Chuck33079

CSF. Mishimoto is awful Chinese garbage.

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2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

jwick

Friends don't let friends put Mishimoto crap on their cars

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'10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

ANMVQ

Like Chuck said the larger heat exchanger( Frozen Boost ) is a must IMO, and DO NOT to mod the kit for more power, and the "new" one is replaced the crappy stock fuel line with a breaded metal one.
If you mod it to make more power( You should make 410-415WHP) then be prepared to buy a motor, Seems like any of us that chase more power with this kit fail. I chase 500whp got 457 and BOOM but with the info on the feed line from Chris I think??? I know why mine popped, and might be why the others have went to , Guys are popping CYL2 or 3( I did 3)

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

chrisgordillo

My car was customed tuned and it's running 415/310 on 93 and another 20-30 whp on 100LL. All my trouble was from the fuel line. The tune had nothing to do with any problem. But since I had so many problems I'm not going to put a smaller pulley. I want to but I think more power now is not a good idea. Since is running good now I'm going to leave it alone.

ANMVQ

Agree, Mine was close to that before I started pushing for 500 WHP, made 412WHP and 300 WTRQ.

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

niko86

can you elaborate on the fuel line problem?
i am running the fuel pump that came with the kit, did all the mods to the housing and i am not having trouble with fuelling apart from it running a tad lean near redline (which i remedied by lowering the redline from 7500 to 6750)

Are you talking about the line that connects the hardline to the rails?

JETDRVR

I'm about 3hrs from Z1 MotorSports & was planning to have them do the install & tune. I have the F.I. TDX Catback Exhaust. Thanks for ALL the input!

zmanelite

Here is a log report from codes

Vehicle Manufacturer: Nissan
Vehicle Calibration ID: 11A36C
V3EV0A
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)
Pending Fault Log
------------------
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
P0171: System too Lean (Bank 1)
Historic Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no historic faults
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged


And the second time

Vehicle Manufacturer: Nissan
Vehicle Calibration ID: 11A36C
V3EV0A
Current Fault Log
------------------
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
Pending Fault Log
------------------
ECU reports no pending faults
Historic Fault Log
------------------
P0174: System too Lean (Bank 2)
Other discovered fault codes
(possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific)
----------------------------------------------------
ECU reports no other fault codes logged
End of report.

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Instagram @zmanscm

ANMVQ

I had this ONCE:
P0106: Manifold Absolute Pressure/Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance Problem
I reset the code and had my tuner tune the range of the MAP sensor to a higher threshold. At least what he told me ,I never can back on again. I would look at that for an option. That also may tie to your lean code NO?

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14 Q50 AWD, ARK, ECUTEK (SEB), Takda,

niko86

zmanelite, you should not be driving the car!
let it get looked at by an experienced tuner, looks like there is something wrong with either your map or fuel supply.
If it is throwing lean codes, it is definitely way to lean for forced induction

as for the P0106 MAP range problem, tell your tuner to disable the DTC in your map file (this is normal, the MAP sensor is not supposed to see positive pressure, as it is an N/A vehicle after all)

I would definitely recommend adding an AFR gauge, for any kind of aftermarket boost it is essential to always know AFRs are good, especially if you floor it

As for downpipe/cat upgrades, i read a lot about that and most people will tell you that downpipes/cats or TPs will decrease boost on the stock pulleys/impellers.
I have just installed this kit, i am running stock headers, berk HFCs, Motordyne XYZ Pipe and Tanabe Exhaust, so pretty much everything except for headers.
I am seeing 8psi on the dyno and 9psi on the road, so i consider this to be a myth.

V1H

Hi niko86, Im curious. Stillen told me the headers would cause a boost loss and lean AFR whereas HFCs would not take the elevated temps.
I still have my Berk HFCs in the box (purchased them recently). I loved the idea of better flow, an extra O2 wideband bung (coz i wanna get an AFR gauge too) and spiced up exhaust note. But now I'm tempted to return them to Z1 Motorsports because of Stillen's advise. I was wondering how your Berks affect your kit. If it's really the temerature stress I guess you wont be able to tell yet since your kit is still faily new. Well, good luck with it i hope they last you long.

niko86

sure, metallic catalyic converters will break sooner than ceramic ones, but that's more of a maintenance issue than a performance one i think

I built a couple of turbocharged cars and still do, i have always used metallic HFC type cats, and the only downside is that you will eventually burn out these cats and need to replace them.

if things go really bad you might have excessive back pressure from a deformed metallic cat in your exhaust thats clogging it up.

What i do on my other cars is just checking on the cats whenever i do an oil change, that's easy enough, does not take long at all, if needs be, i just replace them.

Generally with forced induction you want to reduce back pressure, i am not sure what the deal is with the vortech V3 unit, maybe it's not capable of pumping enough air if the back pressure decreases too much.

So basically it is not a problem the HFCs are introducing into the system, but rather the heat will be higher because of the forced induction, which will shorten the live of your HFCs