From the smile on Mitco's face last night when he pulled up in his Z, I think you can safely drive this base tune (with some restraint!) till you can get to a tuner!
The trick is, the restraint! :icon17:

I'll be shaking and scratching like a crack head asking for boost! :)

You'll be fine with a base tune. Hell I don't think I ever got a proper tune on mine and it ran fine.....after I fixed all the other issues which had nothing to do with the tune.

The car runs and drives fine, the only thing is it gets super rich under WOT (below 10:1 somewhere), so worst case you foul a set of plugs before you get it tuned.

Those plugs are like $100. If you do, I have a spare set of new ones (shameless plug) But it may be a few months unless GTM ships them out for me.

I actually still have my stockers in there right now, going to throw the GTR plugs in right before she goes on the Dyno.

It sounds like a UpRev tuner in Canada would make a boat of cash up there....Just traveling around selling his services.

We have one.... just not one dedicated to the platform.... :shakes head:

Dude WTF!!!!

He's a subaru fanboi and caters to COBB tunes more than the UpRev platform. His tunes are just as expensive and produce less than optimal results. I'll leave it at that.....

What's the difference between a ball bearing turbo and a non ball bearing turbo?

Balls... :)

This is easier:

Ball Bearing vs. Journal Bearing

15% improvement in spooling! Wow!

Right! How can you not get this upgrade

When I made the switch on my own car, I honestly did not feel a big difference. The upgrade is $525 as well, and some customers like to use that money towards something else.

The JB turbo on the test mule car already spooled to 10psi by 3600rpm. That is very responsive.

I've been all over this forum when it comes to FI. I've unsubscribed to all the rest except for F.I. Kinda of a relief Tony speaks so highly of you Sasha that I would think y'all were best friends!

I have been working like a crazy man in my shop on my BP install, here’s an update.

I have had some time in between part shipments to work out some details on wideband and boost controller vacuum sources, also required is a vacuum source for the BOV. With those needs in mind I decided to install a vacuum header. I purchased the header here: Vac Header

I found a nice spot inside the brake/clutch fluid reservoir location to mount the manifold. I am also installing an AEM failsafe gauge (wideband/AFR) and an HKS type S boost controller, getting through the firewall at this location is not too bad, there is a large rubber wiring boot that allows access. I added a Z1 motor sports sticker I had laying around.

I have a ton more pics of all the install, it’s too much work right now to put together a build thread with all the work I have already done, that will come later.

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps6fa821e1.jpg

Install pics...

Tune next Friday

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps5f4c10f1.jpg

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps0ae2f6fa.jpg

http://i393.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps92fd5bbb.jpg

Open dumps! :tup:

Here is my dyno sheet. 93 octane.

High boost when using the HKS boost controller, low boost using the waste gate springs.

https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8099/...5e1f4abe_c.jpg

Nice! :tup:

Is the first run the "Base tune"?

Glad to see you got a dyno starting at 2k rpm :) Power comes on smooth and stays there.

This is the final numbers.

First run using the base tune was around 460hp.

460 is pretty good for the base, I assume its the same tune I am running right now.

Awesome numbers, 2 more weeks for me :)

Which springs? - The yellow springs? (7.25psi)

Yes. The yellow springs.

The odd thing is that boost fell only about .5psi with just springs by 7k rpm. So it is puzzling as to why the EBC could not hold 11psi all the way through. I remember using too small of a housing on my 350z a long time ago, and the boost went from 7.5psi all the way to 4psi with just the springs.

I wonder how these EBC's are setup to work.

I'll have to check the response value that my EBC is set at. I might be able to smooth the boost out a bit on the high end by increasing it. But wouldn't know for sure without getting back on the dyno.

Meanwhile in Canada:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psc273d9c2.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps3ea59c51.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa053ff0d.jpg

Things are moving along very well, and it is much better making this many at once. It is a bit repetitive, but that is just the way it is.

Nice work Sasha! Very good of you to post production pics to soothe the rabid anticipation of the next group of twin scroll junkies....

So, I just spent some time on the phone with Vince.

To sum it up, the boost is nothing to worry about. The car (as you can see by the HP curve) continued to make more power with the higher boost (+50whp over spring pressure run), even though it looks like it is tapering off.

There are many variable at play (including VVEL, and the dyno MAP sensor), and since the car already made very good power, there was no need to spend a lot of time with the EBC setting to try and flatten out the boost curve. It also takes extra time to really dial in an extra few psi (small increments over base pressure) of boost with the EBC like we are trying to do here.

Vince felt like the kit performed very well and made power with ease.

Here is a better looking dyno graph as well:

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8545/8...6d8eef27_b.jpg

I've been reading on this thread alllll night long and have a few questions.. I've been reading that a thermostatic sandwich plate is nice to have for an oil cooler, is the one you provide with the kit thermostatic? I'm guessing it would be the plate with the filter on it that would need the thermostat and not the plate where the oem filter goes correct?

The plate can be added to the system. I have had one customer do this. The filter plate is just that, nothing else.

pm'd you.

-Ray

As I am finishing up the next round of kits, I thought I should update this a bit as well. As always, I listen to what my customers provide to me as feedback. There was a couple of minor things that came up during an install. Perhaps others had the same issue, but didn't bother letting me know. Anyway...here are a few small improvements:

The end of the down pipe that mates up to the turbo has been improved to completely eliminate the chance of exhaust leaks, and give the driver a false A/F reading.

The turbo outlet is bevelled:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps1637b46c.jpg

and the 3" pipe now sticks out past the V-band flange, and actually slides slightly in to the turbine outlet:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psa4be7dd8.jpg

It is much more like a tongue/groove connection.

All the flanges are now welded on the inside vs. outside. This prevents any kind of warping of the flange, so the mating surface is perfectly flat:

(not a great picture):

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps01101b21.jpg

A few small beads on the outside, and solid weld on the inside. The flanges remain perfectly flat:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps8b4cf3e6.jpg

3-bolt header flanges are done the same way:

(note how the inside of the tubing looks welded as well, this is due to purging each manifold with argon during the welding process. This is like welding the tubing from both the inside and outside, producing a very strong, durable weld)

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psdf289aea.jpg

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps257c30c1.jpg

Flange stays perfectly flat:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psfdd2e4d4.jpg


QC is always important, so nothing leaves till it has been assembled, and all the flanges line up perfectly:


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...ps690bede9.jpg


http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q...psebad1340.jpg


The kit now also comes with a 30 row oil cooler.

That $hit belongs in an art museum

Nice improvements.

So what exhausts can be ran with this? It's not just the FI one is it? Or can one be slightly modified to work?

He can send you the rear y-pipe with extra pipe length so an exhaust shop can cut and weld flanges where needed.


*Edit, added Cell's photo-

This photo is from Cell's build thread. You can see what I'm talking about, the top pipe...

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/24/zebyqave.jpg