Install my own GTM kit?

MattP725 · 10-13-2011, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fuct

i duno. you think its ok NOT to use your parking brake when you park your Z. what other misconceptions do you have about cars?

jkjk best of luck on the install.

I don't think that at all I would never not use it. I think the people that leave them in gear generally dont. Just my feeling on the matter.

MattP725 · 10-13-2011, 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mike@GTM

The instruction manual was written for the DIY person. That said, there is a certain amount of common sense that is needed to do the installation. There are times, when you'll really need to stop and think about what you are doing and make sure that you understand what you are doing and why. Knowing how the components interact together is a really big help when doing a DIY install on something like a Twin Turbo kit. I mean, if you don't know how a wastegate works, look it up and learn it. Same goes for the blow off valve. That way, when you're in there routing hoses, you know why we're saying to route them a certain way.

Granted, you can do the install and really not know what it is that you're actually doing and get away with it, but if you put a hose on the wrong nipple and on your first test drive, your car isn't boosting or overboosting, you'll be up the proverbial creek without a paddle because you won't be able to troubleshoot the issue.

Also, keep in mind that the 370Z has a really, really tight engine bay. You are going to be stuffing two turbos and a lot of piping in there. You're going to need some dexterity and special tools to be able to tighten some of the bolts, because they're a real PITA to get to. It's just the nature of the beast.

Here is the link to the 370Z instruction manual:

http://www.gtmotorsports.com/Manuals...structions.pdf

Great points Mike and I would have all intentions of doing my research prior to install or even purchase for that matter. Tools I am def ok with... have a pretty extensive 6'x42" chest. I am not looking to go FI for at least a year or so but this obviously plays into my timing.

Ron · 10-13-2011, 08:37 PM

I'm surprised to read this. Most shop installs I've seen remove the engine.

SPOHN · 10-13-2011, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron

I'm surprised to read this. Most shop installs I've seen remove the engine.

Might be a way to charge more.

Ron · 10-13-2011, 08:44 PM

heh yeah. I just printed the manual and I'm reading through it. Very very detailed so far!

Dembflyr · 10-13-2011, 09:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron

heh yeah. I just printed the manual and I'm reading through it. Very very detailed so far!

I read the install manual probably 100 times before I attempted the install.

It is very good but there were some areas that I though could be better. In my build thread I noted a few areas where there could be an improvement.

I am sure that some of the issues I had were from lack of the proper extensions and universals. I did buy a few more as i was doing the install. Also I think it would've been easier if I had the car on a lift instead of jack stands.

Overall, if you are decently mechanically inclined, the install isn't too bad. The best part has to be the way that it is packaged. GTM makes sure that you don't have parts all over the place during the install. You only open the bag that you need at that time.

SPOHN · 10-13-2011, 09:34 PM

That's why I love my lift. Best investment ever. Course it's easier when two go in on it.

esfourteen · 10-13-2011, 09:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ron

I'm surprised to read this. Most shop installs I've seen remove the engine.

Thats because it's much easier to install the kit with the engine removed, its just basically impossible without a lift to do so. The guide was created assuming you were leaving the engine in so that you could install it either way.

Ron · 10-13-2011, 09:39 PM

The only things that worry me because of limited space are:

-Removal of heat shields/headers/cats (we all know this is PITA)
-Drilling/Tapping the holes on the block (which I've heard the holes are there but you only have to thread them), and oil pan.
-Tightening everything properly with limited space to work with.

Ron · 10-13-2011, 09:45 PM

LOL I just googled for lifts and a 2 post 4 point lift is about 1.5k. You could buy a lift and do the install yourself and still pay less than if you were to take the car to the shop, provided you already have the tools.

modme · 10-13-2011, 10:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by esfourteen

Thats because it's much easier to install the kit with the engine removed, its just basically impossible without a lift to do so. The guide was created assuming you were leaving the engine in so that you could install it either way.

Nah, definitely not close to impossible. It was actually pretty easy to install without a lift. I've done it, as have many others. I think people make it out to be harder than it really is.

Ron · 10-13-2011, 10:35 PM

I think he meant it was nearly impossible to drop the engine without a lift, not installing the kit without a lift. What is the "GTR Turbo/Engine Gauges" on ur sig modme?

esfourteen · 10-13-2011, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by modme

Nah, definitely not close to impossible. It was actually pretty easy to install without a lift. I've done it, as have many others. I think people make it out to be harder than it really is.

yeah I can see how its misread, I was referring to dropping the engine without a lift

toner123 · 10-16-2011, 09:48 PM

I'll give my two cents. I think I was the first to DIY this on the 370z. When I did mine I had to use the G37 manual, so be thankful there is a z one now. As far as installation there were points where i got over whelmed and had to walk away for a few mins clear my mind. I installed mine on jack stands with motor still in the car. I refered to modme diy if i got stuck, somethings he had and others he didn't. The big thing I would say is start reading the manual now and looking for the drill bits and taps now since they were not very common ones and took me a day or two to get. Other special tool you will need is a 90deg drill so you can drill in to the heads for the new manifold. Not all Z's will have the pre-drilled holes, infact very few have them so plan that yours won't. Read the instructions and go step by step. I kind of rushed through my install since I took a week off from work and honestly wasn't enough time. If I was you I would plan for two weeks to do the install. I know someone said a week but I really don't think it can be done on jack stands. Maybe mine took longer because I am stupid and using the G manual. Also you will need badaids and peroxide so get that while shopping. You also might hace a hard time getting the coolant lines on the turbo tight enough so they don't leak. If you call sam he can give youthe part number to the tool they use which snap on sells it. Good luck was something I enjoyed doing but don't think I would want to do again on my back with out a lift.

GaleForce · 10-16-2011, 11:22 PM

I'm looking at the installs... do you remove the front bumper permanently?

10-13-2011, 09:34 PM	#22 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 45 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	That's why I love my lift. Best investment ever. Course it's easier when two go in on it. __________________

10-13-2011, 09:39 PM	#24 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 21	The only things that worry me because of limited space are: -Removal of heat shields/headers/cats (we all know this is PITA) -Drilling/Tapping the holes on the block (which I've heard the holes are there but you only have to thread them), and oil pan. -Tightening everything properly with limited space to work with. Last edited by Ron; 10-13-2011 at 10:10 PM.

10-13-2011, 10:35 PM	#27 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 21	I think he meant it was nearly impossible to drop the engine without a lift, not installing the kit without a lift. What is the "GTR Turbo/Engine Gauges" on ur sig modme? Last edited by Ron; 10-13-2011 at 10:42 PM.

10-16-2011, 11:22 PM	#30 (permalink)
GaleForce A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Ontario, Canada Posts: 21,749 Drives: Varis Arising II Rep Power: 51864	I'm looking at the installs... do you remove the front bumper permanently? __________________ >>>GaleForce's Build<<< >>>FaceBook @3GsCustoms<<<>>>Instagram @GaleForce370z<<< Varis Kamikaze-Z

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10-13-2011, 08:37 PM	#18 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 21	I'm surprised to read this. Most shop installs I've seen remove the engine.

10-13-2011, 08:44 PM	#20 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 21	heh yeah. I just printed the manual and I'm reading through it. Very very detailed so far!

10-13-2011, 09:45 PM	#25 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 21	LOL I just googled for lifts and a 2 post 4 point lift is about 1.5k. You could buy a lift and do the install yourself and still pay less than if you were to take the car to the shop, provided you already have the tools.

10-16-2011, 09:48 PM	#29 (permalink)
toner123 Track Member Join Date: May 2010 Location: chesapeake va Age: 39 Posts: 823 Drives: TT 370z Touring/SP Rep Power: 15	I'll give my two cents. I think I was the first to DIY this on the 370z. When I did mine I had to use the G37 manual, so be thankful there is a z one now. As far as installation there were points where i got over whelmed and had to walk away for a few mins clear my mind. I installed mine on jack stands with motor still in the car. I refered to modme diy if i got stuck, somethings he had and others he didn't. The big thing I would say is start reading the manual now and looking for the drill bits and taps now since they were not very common ones and took me a day or two to get. Other special tool you will need is a 90deg drill so you can drill in to the heads for the new manifold. Not all Z's will have the pre-drilled holes, infact very few have them so plan that yours won't. Read the instructions and go step by step. I kind of rushed through my install since I took a week off from work and honestly wasn't enough time. If I was you I would plan for two weeks to do the install. I know someone said a week but I really don't think it can be done on jack stands. Maybe mine took longer because I am stupid and using the G manual. Also you will need badaids and peroxide so get that while shopping. You also might hace a hard time getting the coolant lines on the turbo tight enough so they don't leak. If you call sam he can give youthe part number to the tool they use which snap on sells it. Good luck was something I enjoyed doing but don't think I would want to do again on my back with out a lift.