phunk's CJM Greddy TT - Build, Info, Reviews, Etc

G37sHKS · 11-28-2011, 06:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Yes proper tires and alignment. Currently I have 305/30/19 RE11s, RE11s are not up to the task of over 500rwhp. My alignment also needs to have more camber taken out. I am going to switch to a 305 R888 on my 19s for daily use. With that and less camber it should help a ton from where I am now.

For when I want to use all the power I will use a 335 or 345 drag radial on an 18" wheel, I will put it at stock ride height, and set the camber at zero when using this wheel/tire combo. Pricing out different wheels right now for my 18s.

If anyone is ever able to adjust the SRM system then I will swap out the rear end gear for a taller one.

Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks

weiboy718 · 11-28-2011, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks

Are you lowered? Do you have camber kit and toe bolts. What wheels and tires you're running. Include all the specs if you can

Red__Zed · 11-28-2011, 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks

how much cornering grip are you willing to sacrifice?

phunk · 11-28-2011, 12:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G37sHKS

Can you please recommend what camber spec recommended for front and rear (and toe spec if you can) for TT g37? Im having some serious issues with traction

Thanks

Just keep the front setup normal and focus on the rear. I havent looked into toe and its effects in drag racing.. I havent really considered it to be as significant of an issue as camber. I would just run as close to stock toe in the rear as possible unless I find a reason that it doesnt work out well after pulling out the camber. You need the entire tire to contact the pavement for maximum straight line traction. That would mean zero camber during weight transfer. When the rear squats, the camber is going to go more negative than how it sits flat. You want the camber to be as flat as you can get it. I wouldnt be surprised to hear if someone that only drag races their IRS car possible even runs very light positive camber so that it zeros out when the car squats.

I ran my 350z at i think around -1.5 camber and it helped a lot versus where it always was when I originally slammed the car on coilovers. That was on a 305 35 18 Toyo R888. With the 3.3FD the car was fully useable in 3rd. 2nd was usually good if I was on good pavement. 1st would spin a bit but it was controllable enough to be content by not quite flooring it hard in that gear. Plus the R888s *seemed* to accelerate better while spining than my RE11 which feel completely dead when they light up.

For my street tires on the 370z I am going to replace the 305 30 19 RE11s with the Toyo R888. I think that will help quite a bit already. For my 18x12 wheels that will just be for drag racing, I will put on a 335 or 345 drag radial. Still contemplating fitment and how large I want to try and fit. I have my eyes on 3 different tires and will settle on one soon. When I have the 18x12s on, I will probably run stock suspension in the front and rear with all stock alignment specs except little to no negative camber in the rear. I think that combo should make the car rather useable for drag racing... for sure at least with stock bottom end power. I am hoping it will work for me even with higher numbers on a built bottom end.

G37sHKS · 11-28-2011, 03:25 PM

You mentioned R888 as daily drive?? how many miles you can put on them before you change them?? I would get these tires if they can be driven as any other daily drive tires but I dont wanna change them every several months..

98intrigue · 11-28-2011, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

Just keep the front setup normal and focus on the rear. I havent looked into toe and its effects in drag racing.. I havent really considered it to be as significant of an issue as camber. I would just run as close to stock toe in the rear as possible unless I find a reason that it doesnt work out well after pulling out the camber. You need the entire tire to contact the pavement for maximum straight line traction. That would mean zero camber during weight transfer. When the rear squats, the camber is going to go more negative than how it sits flat. You want the camber to be as flat as you can get it. I wouldnt be surprised to hear if someone that only drag races their IRS car possible even runs very light positive camber so that it zeros out when the car squats.

I ran my 350z at i think around -1.5 camber and it helped a lot versus where it always was when I originally slammed the car on coilovers. That was on a 305 35 18 Toyo R888. With the 3.3FD the car was fully useable in 3rd. 2nd was usually good if I was on good pavement. 1st would spin a bit but it was controllable enough to be content by not quite flooring it hard in that gear. Plus the R888s *seemed* to accelerate better while spining than my RE11 which feel completely dead when they light up.

For my street tires on the 370z I am going to replace the 305 30 19 RE11s with the Toyo R888. I think that will help quite a bit already. For my 18x12 wheels that will just be for drag racing, I will put on a 335 or 345 drag radial. Still contemplating fitment and how large I want to try and fit. I have my eyes on 3 different tires and will settle on one soon. When I have the 18x12s on, I will probably run stock suspension in the front and rear with all stock alignment specs except little to no negative camber in the rear. I think that combo should make the car rather useable for drag racing... for sure at least with stock bottom end power. I am hoping it will work for me even with higher numbers on a built bottom end.

What size tire are you thinking? I found a great price on some 345/35/18" tires

They are 27.5" tall...that's quite a tall tire.

M&H TIRES RADIAL DRAG REAR - Starting from $203.00 Featuring Free Warranty and Free Freight - Drag Racing Tires from Performance Plus Tire

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11-28-2011, 03:25 PM	#5 (permalink)
G37sHKS A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Dubai Posts: 1,183 Drives: 09 G37S Coupe 7AT Rep Power: 22	You mentioned R888 as daily drive?? how many miles you can put on them before you change them?? I would get these tires if they can be driven as any other daily drive tires but I dont wanna change them every several months..