I was under the impression (correct me if I'm wrong) that the whole reason Stillen was using the weird tuning solution (locked down tune) was because it was required to get CARB cert. I've heard that JWT was trying to get CARB cert on their twin turbo setup on 350Z's for years and coudn't for similar reasons.

On carb cert: stillens current tunes aren't carb
certified. If they get one certified and you load it into rom, will Stillen give you the sticker, or do you have to buy the unit after they get approval, then send it to youbwoth only that one tune? If they will give you the sticker when they get one of their tunes approved, how is that different than running a custom tune for now, then running the carb approved tune once it's here? They should give you carb sticker if you revert your custom tune back, otherwise, they shouldnt be giving carb stickers to anyone who buys the kit before they get carb approval.

On the topic of warranty: is there a warranty policy in writing? I didn't receive one. If it's not in writing, there is no warranty. If there is a written policy, can someone point me to it? I keep seeing people debate whether to do a custom tune because of the warranty issue. If Stillen warranties their carb tune, that means everyone who has run tune r1-r7 are running non-approved tunes which would not be warranty qualified. If Stillen will warranty their non-carb tunes, people
like tomnavone that are running non-stock items like
HFC's that could be causing poor performance with the canned tune, could get Stillen to custom tune their cars, get it work work right and still have the warranty.

Just a thought, but I need more info on the true status of implied vs written warranty.

Their warranty is for the hardware, not the car or engine. There is no warranty available till they get it carb approved.

wel then go get someone that knows how to tune your car to do it. I think you know who you should call ;)

I found this about the warranty


^^Thought this was funny

:icon18::iagree:As far as I am concerned, the statements that Tom quoted were all lip-service (or typed, but you know what I mean). Those who have purchased the kit should have something in writing that details the warranty.

that last one is classic

Captain! :gtfo2: please!

Well here it is...45min with a custom tuner and it was done. This was done on a Mustang dyno so the numbers will be lower than usual. Unfortunately i don't have a pre-kit dyno to compare. Since getting the tune today, the car has developed what seems to be a tip-in knock; so i will be working with my dealership/stillen to handle that. Even with the knock, the car accelerates great. Anyways, here's the numbers, i'll let you experts pick it apart:

http://i159.photobucket.com/albums/t...aolo1/Dyno.png

I'd love to see what a stock 370z does on that dyno.

My guess would be ~255whp

14:1 afr at 4k rpm?

I am not expert, but that is probably one of these safest tunes Ive ever seen and it still made pretty decent power. Maybe I am reading this all backwards, but seems you are running a richer setup then the factory or am i Crazy?

Are you serious? 343/252? I just cant believe it, i made 299/233 with bolt ons and no tune on a Mustang. Again i realize there are so many factors to just compare dynos like that. But still 8+grand for 50hp.

I will be finally getting tuned and UD pulley installed in a few weeks and hope to make 310+. It may be longer now as someone hit me this morning :shakes head::shakes head::shakes head:

It sounds like you had it custom tuned. If it's knocking then you should take it back to the tuner to fix this.

update: the drive back from the tuner was a 3 hour drive, per his suggestion, let the car sit for 2 hours to cool off. Afterwards, drove it around again and the knocking was gone. In addition, when the knocking was occurring, the idle sat at 1500 instead of 1000...after i let it cool, it was back to 1000. So he believes the car was heat soaked during my 3 hour drive back and the ecu switched into an alternate map due to the heat.

So, will be checking with Uprev and Stillen to try and remedy. Otherwise, the car drives great.

He didn't go full throttle until about 4200rpms that's why the A/F dipped so low. You want to be at 14:1 when cruising, but it should immediately drop when giving it open throttle 50-100%. Optimal A/F on a supercharger is no more then 11.5:1 a/f, but you could always add a little extra fuel as a safety factor (which is what they did). On a DynoJet that would put down around 383/292 (just to give an idea comparing Stillen's dyno since it reads high to begin with). There's still power to be made by taking fuel out from 4600rpms all way to about 7400rpms, but the knocking needs to be addressed first.

FI runs richer at WOT then N/A, however the AFR chart is not great, he is actually getting leaner at redline.

I would like 14:7.1 until 2000, transition to 13:1.1 or there about at 2500, then getting fatter to about 11:3.1 --- 11:5.1 depending on octane and other tune variables from 3000 rpm to about 6000 rpm, then fattening up a little up top, say 11:0.1 if the motor was happy. His AFR should be stable if his MAF is scaled correctly and fuel targets are requested int he correct load/rpm zones.

Tip in knock..... I would contact the injector manafacturer directly and get suggested latency figures for your injectors, give this with any actual flow calibrations from your actual injectors to a decent tuner and ask him to dial the fueling better, you will be amazed how much difference it will make.

If your tuner floored it at 4K for tuning you are missing a massive spread of tunable parameters, I would ask him to tune your lower RPM band also, your load areas at lower rpm need to be tuned , I bet this will be where you are knocking also. Did he spend any time on partial throttle or just WOT >4K?


If your knocking has gone it has probably been learnt out, which will mean you have lost power due to the new leaned parameters... reset your ECU, bet it comes back for a bit until the ecu ***** itself and corrects it for you, saves it in its little memory and pulls some timing to stop it self dying. You may find you actually have switched to a fail safe fuel table which will be even fatter in the fuel, my gas 10:..... 1

Osiris -- lets see some timing data if you have it, if you have any logs email them over, PM me if so, I will chart them for all.

I am not picking at your choice or tune , you had the balls to FI your Z and are getting on with it, good for you, but with such limited data on the tunes I am keen for more info.

are you using the original pulley?

No, i have the silver pulley.


Kastley, i will see if there is any other data i can get from the tuner.

HOw come You didn't get the original pulley? THat one should make more power

I went to this tuner as per request of Stillen. Trying to follow their recommendations to rectify everything; and they didn't suggest using the original pulley. The tuner, being familiar with the kit, had indicated he could definately get more power using the original pulley. He also suggested high flow cats or even test pipes.

Cool!

Good info. And interesting on your injector comment. Although I don't have any hands on tuning experience I do have some knowledge about the process. Never heard of that.

I've been talking to a friend of mine who has a lot of experience with superchanged VQ's and he mentioned something similar on the 350Z's.

Appearantly the stock cats can crack (the internal mesh ECT.) even on NA cars. I actually just saw that personally this weekend on my buddy's car with the HKS S/C. What has been see before (here and in Japan) is that this debris can actually get sucked into the cylender between exhaust pulses and score the walls enough to cause sealing & oil issues. I think despite what I've heard about some possible boost loss I'd run some aftermarket cats designed to handle higher FI temps as preventative maintenance whether it's a Stillen or GTM kit.

If you can get to 310+ hp on a Mustang, that would indicate that particular Mustang is reading as high as Stillen's dynojet, as my car with full bolt ons made 315hp. With the new, larger pulley, my car made 422 hp, or a gain of 107 hp. That is similar to others gains. I haven't seen anyone post a validated 50 hp gain from the Stillen supercharger.

I am also using the new larger pulley, but why are you getting 79hp more? What else is on your car? Define "full bolt ons" because if there's a way to get more power i'd like to explore that possibility.

The whole point is that dynojet dynos read higher than mustang dynos and that if your car ran on Stillen's dyno (a dynojet), it would probably read 390hp. Nitex's rebuttal was that his car made 290 hp without supercharger on a Mustang dyno and that he expects 310+ hp on a Mustang dyno when he has his bolt-ons done. He then compared his car on his dyno to your car on your dyno then deduced that the supercharger was only adding about 50 hp because they are both Nissan 370z's and they were both run on Mustang Dynos.

I then argued that it was an incorrect assumption because his Mustang dyno reads higher than most Mustang dynos, very close to what a dynojet dyno reads and that everyone who has done before / after dynos for their supercharger install has seen 100 or more hp increase.

The setup I have is the same as RCZ's except he had his tuned by a company in Florida and I had mine done by Stillen. Set up is as follows:

2009 370z sport model, Stillen supercharger, 9 psi pulley, tuned for 93 octane, headers, hi-flo cats, aftermarket exhaust.

Here's the dyno with baseline (with headers, cats, exhaust, G3 intakes), 8 psi pulley with 91 octane tune and 9 psi pulley with 93 octane tune.

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k3...t/DSCN1432.jpg

I dynoed my car there bone stock, made like 250something.

I dynoed my car there with full bolt ons and made 290something.

I dynoed my car there with the supercharger and made 380something.

I then took my car to a local dynojet and made 432hp SAE (455hp STD, STD is what both Stillen and GTM use when they publish dyno numbers)

....as stated...stock cars make 240-250whp on this dyno...340 is a 90-100whp gain over stock....and on par for the setup IMHO.

...the tip-in knock as discussed has been observed even on stock untuned cars ....in this case it seemed to be a bit exaggerated....I theorize there are a few modes that the ECU reverts to in the event that overheating occurs..and with the combination of the SC kit/florida heat/extended idle/slow cruise/ A/C ...etc its not impossible for these already tempurature sensitive cars to reach the threshold.....without access to these possible alternate schedules its difficult to assume they are at a set point/value...I have seen this behavior exibited using both Osiris and Cobb to tune with and can only hypothesize on the culprit. One thing I CAN say is this is not the first kit I have seen and am still pleased by the results I am achieving with the Stillen kit using UPREV software. I have no complaints thus far and will happily continue tuning these kits as they come.

-Jack

I fully agree with RCZ rwhp #'s how he has converted the SAE rwhp to STD rwhp.
He gave the true RWHP in SAE.
That's the one and only true # that counts.
With my bolt ons i made 311 rwhp and 320 std Actal hp. Base line was 260.4. (dyno Jet )
Mine is also a 7 AT.

Z

" Shumby, RCZ and I agree on something "

Phim, i made 299 so basically 300. I have most bolt ons already installed for this number. I was hoping for 310+ after UD pulley and tune. I also stated that it is not correct to compare dynos this way. So i agree with your statement.

However, the mustang I'm running on does not read as high as any dynojet in this area. I don't doubt it does read high for a mustang, but not dynojet levels. Also remember I'm at sea level here in the Seattle area. So once FI, my numbers should be fairly high in comparison, due to lower ambient heat, and elevation levels.

Z eliminator, all dynos can give you both sae and std. The difference is that some dynos just plain read lower.

There is no "actual" hp. You dynoed your baseline and bolt-ons on a dynojet, I did it on a mustang dyno.

So much for that :rofl2:

Haha, Its funny because I know I'm right and I know he doesnt know how this whole thing works if he thinks theres a "true" hp.

There's so much stuff that gets thrown around this thread/site that is inaccurate and people say it with such authority. There are maybe 5-10 people in here who actually know what they are talking about.

Smartass! Hahaha

That is a bold assumption based of a personal opinion

Here we go again..............

Nope, it's a factual statement based on the number of people who actually have a baseline pull and a pull after adding FI - on the same dyno.

^^^ sweet that means RCZ things i know what i am talking about. lol

You miss understand my comment - I was not directing it at anything to do with Dyno references, but to the comment of only 5-10 people on here knowing what they are talking about. I read it as a 'general' comment by RCZ as he mentioned the entire thread / site.



Any way , life goes on