Carizon made a special request for white. These came out very nice!

Color is called Rocket White if you would like a set. http://www.the370z.com/members/topgu...526-153143.jpg



Also, these were just dropped off while at the powder coater.

http://www.the370z.com/members/topgu...519-185011.jpg

Did this ever get dyno plots with boost plots posted?

We only have the one back on page 7. This was with one hour on the dyno to get peak numbers and we did not touch the midrange at all so we had zero timing into it. Also, with the newer designed intakes we will make more power.

There is one guy that has been promised dyno results for 3 weeks. The shop is having issues with the injectors they recommended...1700cc. He is ported both upper and lower with LTH's. This thing will make some crazy power. We will have numbers for 93, VP110 and E85 from that build. HOPEFULLY THIS WEEK!

Also, there are 6 other guys out there with this kit installed either waiting to get on the dyno to be tuned or have been remote tuned and waiting to just get some numbers. Dyno's are so damn backed up this time of year, shops are slammed.

I am sending out kits as fast as possible right now and more and more results will be popping up soon.

i'm already running 1050x but seeing this i guess i will have to budget in new injectors when Seb installs mine. what size pump are most running with the new kit

http://www.the370z.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1590600030

Got my stash ready for u Aaron :D who else eagerly waiting for the green light :driving:

while i am eagerly waiting im in no hurry as other parts are months out....LTH headers won't be ready till Mid August and then Specialty-z Appointment is Sept 3..
but it does give me time to ceramic coat all the pipes

I see. Wish I was in Cali to get tuned with Seb in person, but I’ll be doing remote tuning with him. I messaged him up the other day and told him I’ll be ready in 4-6 weeks hopefully.

its like my second home. he does all the work on both my cars...

Where do i purchase from ? Did you have a website ? Pm me please very interested in complete kits

Send TopgunZ a PM

I have PM'd you.

Also, I do have a website. www.topgunspeedworks.com

I have not yet placed the ACE kit on the site since I have limited inventory. That is being solved soon and should not be a problem moving forward.

The website is getting an overhaul and will be much more user friendly. I will also be adding some really cool add ons to the kit and the VQ in general.

Thanks,
Aaron

Aaron, you didn't reply to my text from last week. What's going on?

You didn't slip him the tongue last time. :icon14:

http://www.the370z.com/forced-induct...d-works-2.html

My IG is punch370z there is a video of it I posted the other day. I just went in to grab a couple parts. They are still working the out the 02 sensor issue but once thats done it should be smooth sailing fingers crossed.

does your BOV make a chirping noise at light to mid throttle? Mines been making that noise and its so damn loud

I couldn't tell ya as I haven't gotten the car back yet. If you go to my ig there are a couple videos of it.

gonna post this on here since I'm sure Seb and Topgunz are getting sick of trying to help me out with this supercharger/bov flutter. I raised the car up and had my foreman listen for the noise. He said there was air pushing out of the supercharger inlet when the noise was happening. Anyone have any ideas?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/AygMQsNj3rsx98ZZ8

edit:
another video of the noise. this ones longer.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2VgrZzVosRHJuL9j9

That's exactly the same noise I get from the Tial BOV tht came with my A to A kit. The difference is that yours seems to happen much more often than mine, even when you change gears. Mine ONLY happens when I'm cruising along at a steady 100KMH (60MPH in "Retardistan";) and I'm at 0 on my boost gauge. With those conditions in continually makes the same noise as yours.

I'm assuming you haven't resolved the issue yet?

No I have not.
My shop confirmed that was the noise I was hearing. The noise doesn't worry me as it only happens in occasional circumstances. I believe it's just the BOV's normal behaviour in my A to A setup.

Compressor surge?

According to that article isn't that what the BOV prevents (compressor surge)?
Assuming the BOV is working properly and has the correct spring for the application.
My guess is that when the "fluttering" noise occurs, it's from a condition of zero boost /vacuum and the particular BOV's spring allows the valve to open and close a small, fairly rapid amount because in those conditions it's getting some sort of oscillation between tiny boost and tiny vacuum (neutral). :confused:

Yeah, that's definitely what the bov should prevent. Not being a supercharger expert by all mean's, could the placement of the bov have an effect on it's efficiency?

I was getting fluttering when I had my qrj installed. I replaced the 1.5 psi spring with a 3 psi and it was fine after that.

I don't know about the efficiency/effect of where the BOV is placed in relation to the particular setup.
As far as different BOV/PSI spring rates are concerned I thought you have to use the one the A to A kit comes with as it's designed for that setup and that changing it will affect how the whole system works properly or not.

It is absolutely the BOV being under the right conditions to allow it to fluctuate between open and closed. When that condition is just right it is not under enough vacuum to be pegged open and the air the SC is making (which it is always making) has to escape. The valve gets pushed up by the air, the spring pushes it back down, due to not enough vacuum. This happens repeatedly and quickly giving that chopping/fluttering sound. I experimented forever with this on my initial kit back in 2014. Vacuum changes from car to car and from environments, namely altitude.

If you get flutter then try a slighlty stronger spring, or you can throw in a shim, like a really thick washer. This makes the spring stronger. Also, adding resistance to the output will help. Place a filter on it (Return style only). I bet if you bought the cover that makes the Q50 return style, it would be gone.

As long as the BOV is staying open in idle and decell, and shut during boost anything goes. Maybe the 3psi spring would work better.

The Q50 comes with a 2 psi spring and unfortunately, it appears the next stronger spring is a 6 psi. The QR and QRJ don'r share the same spring. The bottom QR section can be bought for $60.00. I ran a Q50 and now a QR50 (the QR because I'm running a silencer) in the location as the V1 series kit and have/had no issues with flutter.

What is strange is the Q50/QR50 has a 50mm valve and the QRJ has a 38.5 valve yet the QR50 has a smaller outlet port (22mm) compared to the QRJ (35mm).

so do you think I should try adding a washer? I have plenty of them at the shop. ;)

Try one that is at least 1/4" thick and see if that helps. Might need to go to 1/2". More of a spacer at that point. You can always make one too with some rod stock and a drill press or mill.

This looks like the perfect solution for the power level I'm looking for in the G37X sedan. What are the filtration options for this? It will be on a daily driver.

It is the Velocity intake with the Prefilter. The filter does a great job of keeping anything that could be harmful out of your engine while bringing in as much air as possible.

If you want added protection, you could place a second filter on essentially doubling the micron filter element.

The filter is easily removable for cleaning unlike the old filter that would require removal of the supercharger for cleaning. You can always still use the old KN style I sold with my first kits if you want, but I find it unnecessary with this new design I offer.

Check out the new website! www.topgunspeedworks.com

As of the current date I only have the 370Z page fully populated with all items but everything that is there works on the G37.

I messaged Tial tech support to get the inner diameter of the BOV and he did not give me the measurements. Instead he mentioned that they do not recommend adding a spacer to the BOV. They said adding a spacer will cause premature wear. It has the potential of causing the bov to bind or stick.

Truth be told, I fell like after spending around $3.7k on both kits I feel like there should be a better solution to this flutter.

They said to go to the next spring up. I'll send you one.

It's kind of ironic that Tial doesn't recommend using a washer because they say it will cause premature wear yet they use the same springs for their bv and q series but the bv has a higher spring rate because it gets compressed more. :rofl2:

Lol. So true. But do you really think Tial wants people to use a spacer when they can sell them a spring for a 200% markup?

However, I get it as a customer you dont want to do something the mfg doesnt recommend.

Some great information I got from Tial today regarding the Q/QR and the QRJ:

I believe you would be just fine in retaining the QR, but I also think that, if you use the QRJ, and when installed correctly, it will provide a more linear response.

It's perfectly okay to use the -3.0psi spring, as that would also allow the QRJ to be open at idle, to act as a bypass, and if that provides you with the best performance, that's great news. In many other cases, the -6psi spring would provide that same bypass, but the BOV would not respond as quickly. That is exactly why the 'default' part numbers for the QRJ only contain either the -1.5 or -3.0psi springs, then, from there, the springs become an optional item.

Sometimes this just comes down to the specific engine dynamics, and sometimes it's about personal preference, but, again, that's why we offer options.

I am sure that, if there was a suitable demand, we could work with our spring supplier to offer a spring that sits 'between' the current offerings, but that demand has really not been strong. The Q/QR and QRJ actually have some overlap as to spring use, as the required dimensions at the spring cup are identical, but some springs can't be used in some bodies, as they could limit piston travel, etc.

Now, as to why a Q would be more apt to 'flutter' than a QRJ, this really comes down to the design, and as I mentioned, for most applications, I would tend to recommend the QRJ, as it's designed to provide that more linear response, and it's less likely to exhibit 'flutter' than the Q or QR, especially when installed correctly.

The Q and QR tend to be more "on-off-on" in terms of response, where the QRJ has the advantage of that piston/chamber design.

Many times, kit builders choose the Q because it is well-known, robust, and reliable, and has tremendous flow, but in a lot of cases, they would probably benefit from using the QRJ. We try to educate customers as best we can, but in the end, this is precisely why we offer both designs.

That said, I can assure you that for one person that wants to rid the system of any 'flutter', there is an equal and opposite person that actually wants to enhance that very same 'flutter'.

So it does become somewhat subjective.

Some added info from Tial:

The QRJ also has a unique v-band set of it's own (different than Q/QR), and threaded v-flange that allows for it to mount directly where a Q or QR was originally. There's also a 'diffuser' outlet for atmospheric discharge, and, of course, you can also simply run the unit without any discharge adapter of any kind, and this is very common. It's also very loud in that configuration.

As for which is best for you, that's more about flow than boost pressure (which is irrelevant), but consider this:

Q has flow to support 1800HP worth of bypass flow
QR has flow to support 1200HP worth of bypass flow
QRJ has flow to support 900HP worth of bypass flow

All three are capable of a significant amount of bypass flow, so unless you are exceeding the peak flow rate of whichever BOV you currently have, there's no reason to change unless you simply prefer the feature or fitment of one over the other.

All of that aside, we typically will suggest that a customer consider the QRJ for many applications, as the design favors a more linear power transfer for on-off throttle, which is advantageous for road and road/track cars, particularly those with FWD or AWD configurations.

One thing worth noting: The QRJ is designed to be installed with the inlet as the 'side' port, and the discharge as the 'end' port. The unique tapered piston and large chamber that surrounds it lend to the best performance when installed this way. It will still work if installed 'backward' but all of those benefits are lost when this is done. There are sometimes reasons why this doesn't matter, and the design allows this, due to the spacing of the ports.

For a supercharged application, the -1.5psi spring will allow the BOV to act as a bypass for the supercharger at idle and under light-load, which reduces the load on the drive system (usually a belt) and reduces the forces acting against the throttle body, and, of course, prevents odd tuning issues that occur when positive pressure is present in the intake manifold at idle.

I'm personally a big fan of the QRJ, but I also don't own anything that requires the flow rate of the larger devices.

I also wanted to point out that this "flutter" is different from any other flutter I've heard. Normally when people mention that word it's happening only when shifting it letting off the throttle. Mine does it when accelerating from 10-50% throttle.

I also wanted to point out that this "flutter" is different from any other flutter I've heard. Normally when people mention flutter it's happening only when shifting it or letting off the throttle. Mine does it when accelerating from 10-50% throttle.

I sent the information over to Seb and he thanked me for the great information as he has a remote tune customer that was asking him about a fluttering issue :tiphat:

appreciate it buddy. He literally copy and pasted the info on his email. I saw your post about 15 minutes later lol