Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Spooler

Let me drop a bit of knowledge. The thermostat on our cars causes all kinds of grief with coolant pressure. It will cause the coolant pressure to go higher than radiator cap pressure and you will puke coolant. It will keep puking until it opens up an air pocket and the car overheats. This has been verified a while ago with 3 different cars on standalones with coolant pressure sensors. All of our cars showed 25 to 28psi at 7500 to 8000 rpm. The easiest way to correct the issue is to remove the thermostat. Coolant pressure will then run around cap pressure depending on coolant temps. The cars that are running Ecutek for coolant pressure only show about 15-17psi. I am not sure why. It appears the sample rate for the sensor they are hijacking is very low. My Emtron samples at 1000hz. That is 1000 times a second. I know the 3 standalone cars are accurate. Ecutek, I do not think so. I have helped people with the factory header tanks, 2012 and up 370z's and ones that are not. The cars with the factory header tanks are better but they still puke coolant. This whole-time people have thought they had a headgasket issue and didn't. The only way to tell for sure is to get a baseline at low boost when you tune your build. With my car at 12psi of boost and revving to 7800 rpms my pressure was 25psi. Revving to 8000 rpms it was 27psi. Reason, the water pump was spinning faster. So, the thermostat is the cause of the pressure going above the radiator cap. That is the restriction causing problems. I have helped a couple of people with this problem and it holds true. No more puking coolant. All this time and nobody has ran a coolant pressure sensor on the VQ's with a standalone.