Fast Intentions Stage 2 TT build by MA-Motorsports.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 09:01 AM

I think I am going to go out on that limb again and go a different route than normal. Brian has done this modification many times on Formula Drift cars. Just asked him for a price. I don't know if I want to know. Right now the car is just an animal and a handful to drive. I need to fix the issue before I chunk it in the ditch.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 09:26 AM

Car will go back next year. Price is not bad. I may just take the subframe out at the house and ship it up.

javi370z · 10-23-2020, 12:26 PM

Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 12:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javi370z

Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

LOL, you think it will go up for just one upgrade. Oh no!!!!! More on the list.

phunk · 10-23-2020, 02:36 PM

I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires.

Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well.

Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 03:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phunk

I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires.

Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well.

Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires.

Yes, the tires are done. I am going to do the pickup point change, reduce camber, and will increase the height. Just got to make some adjustments. We shall see how all this turns out. I am just about 50/50 on weight distribution. Diff cooler and DSS axles in the rear. I am not in a big hurry. I just want to enjoy the car at the moment. I have some bigger fish to fry right now unrelated to car doings.

Spooler · 10-23-2020, 07:04 PM

I am doing an "Exit stage Right" again and going my own direction. Will it work? We shall see. Traction is fun as heck. Getting pinned in the drivers seat is something to experience. Spinning is frustrating.

Spooler · 10-24-2020, 06:13 PM

One 55 gallon drum of Ignite Red down the hatch.

Spooler · 10-25-2020, 01:50 PM

Not sure if you guys have figured it out yet but I will save the Dragy for a 1/2 mile event. It is just too dangerous on the street. Way too much traffic, etc. It is just not worth it to me on the street. Folks can say what they want to. I don't care. The risks are just way to high.

Spooler · 10-30-2020, 08:49 AM

New battery time. She is 7 yrs old.

cv129 · 10-30-2020, 12:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

New battery time. She is 7 yrs old.

I dunno why new battery excites me, but it does....I dunno why. You going with regular size, or lightweight?

I’ve changed batteries 3 times on this FM chassis, I still wish there’s no need to tear out those trims....so stupid nowadays...

Spooler · 10-30-2020, 01:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cv129

I dunno why new battery excites me, but it does....I dunno why. You going with regular size, or lightweight?

I’ve changed batteries 3 times on this FM chassis, I still wish there’s no need to tear out those trims....so stupid nowadays...

First battery replacement for me and the car has never ever been on a battery tender. I am going with a Diehard Platinum AGM battery. Pick it up this afternoon. I had to order it this morning.
Taking off the plastic cowl was a piece of cake. My vette's battery is in the trunk. It is always on a tender.

Rusty · 10-30-2020, 01:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

First battery replacement for me and the car has never ever been on a battery tender. I am going with a Diehard Platinum AGM battery. Pick it up this afternoon. I had to order it this morning.
Taking off the plastic cowl was a piece of cake. My vette's battery is in the trunk. It is always on a tender.

The battery in my Grand Cherokee is under the pass front seat.

Rusty · 10-30-2020, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

New battery time. She is 7 yrs old.

Mine is going on 10 years.

Martijn_b · 10-30-2020, 09:00 AM

Oh c'mon! At least show that you can smash my stock block 6.85 100-200kmh time Spooler! ;-)

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

10-23-2020, 09:01 AM	#1 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,010 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	I think I am going to go out on that limb again and go a different route than normal. Brian has done this modification many times on Formula Drift cars. Just asked him for a price. I don't know if I want to know. Right now the car is just an animal and a handful to drive. I need to fix the issue before I chunk it in the ditch. Last edited by Spooler; 10-23-2020 at 11:51 AM.

10-23-2020, 09:26 AM	#2 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,010 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	Car will go back next year. Price is not bad. I may just take the subframe out at the house and ship it up. Last edited by Spooler; 10-23-2020 at 10:19 AM.

10-23-2020, 02:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
phunk A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 3,669 Drives: 370 Rep Power: 974724	I went through 3 sets of drag radials on my Mustang, heat cycling them out far before any significant wear was on the tires. I would usually just drive that car around on the highways/interstates since that was really the only place I could use its power. On hot days I could smell the tire rubber heat just when I would stop for gas. I aligned it to remove all the toe in the rear (toe is additional friction/heat even when just driving straight), and then I stopped driving it at speeds over 60mph for extended times. The last set of drag radials I put on after that stayed stickier for me for much much longer, they are actually still on the car to this day... though I never drive that car anymore. But I used to only get around 2000-3000 miles of good traction from a new set of tires. Even after correcting the camber gain, you should still raise your car. Having it low and stiff significantly reduces its ability to transfer weight to the rear, and I will bet that has a more potent effect on the grip than the camber gain. When you keep it higher, the camber gain is also drastically reduced. Justins Z was able to put down 700whp in second gear with 305/35R18 R888s, which we found to be quite incredible. While camber no doubt decreases your contact patch, remember that the pressure on the remaining contact patch goes way up, so when you cut your contact by say 50%, you have not lost 50% of your grip due to the doubled pressure (weight) on the remaining contact patch. Plus the tire will deform more and increase the longitudinal patch a little bit as well. Is your battery in the back yet? Do anything you can to shift weight to the rear tires. __________________ Charles @ CJ Motorsports : Website \| Facebook \| Instagram \| YouTube Home of the 9 second, stock longblock, stock drivetrain 6MT 370z. 9.91 @ 142mph Last edited by phunk; 10-23-2020 at 02:45 PM.

10-30-2020, 09:00 AM	#15 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3787	Oh c'mon! At least show that you can smash my stock block 6.85 100-200kmh time Spooler! ;-) Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

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10-23-2020, 12:26 PM	#3 (permalink)
javi370z Base Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: dallas Posts: 118 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 13	Or maybe buy a subframe and have it shipped there to not have your car down

10-23-2020, 07:04 PM	#7 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,010 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	I am doing an "Exit stage Right" again and going my own direction. Will it work? We shall see. Traction is fun as heck. Getting pinned in the drivers seat is something to experience. Spinning is frustrating.

10-24-2020, 06:13 PM	#8 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,010 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	One 55 gallon drum of Ignite Red down the hatch.

10-25-2020, 01:50 PM	#9 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,010 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	Not sure if you guys have figured it out yet but I will save the Dragy for a 1/2 mile event. It is just too dangerous on the street. Way too much traffic, etc. It is just not worth it to me on the street. Folks can say what they want to. I don't care. The risks are just way to high.

10-30-2020, 08:49 AM	#10 (permalink)
Spooler A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Ga Posts: 14,010 Drives: 2013 Nismo 370z Rep Power: 2684393	New battery time. She is 7 yrs old.