The only choices are Morimoto, stock, or modified stock. The Morimotos seem to have a decently high failure rate, but they have a good warranty (if purchased new).

I went with modified stock and am adding G5BRT projectors from Lightwerkz. I'm back in Germany again, so spending a month without headlights (shipping back/forth) in the event of a warranty claim isn't something I'm willing to deal with.

Yeah, slim pickings out there.

Ordered the Morimoto kit. Headlights, taillights, and side markers. Time for the janky ones to go.

I have been pretty happy with my morimoto headlight and tail lights. Gives it a nice, clean, modern look to them. I haven't had any issues with them but the warranty is for 5 years.

I will get to install in a few weeks. I have been very busy. I still need to remove my thermostat and install a restrictor. Then test it. The older I get, the less time I have to do the things I want to do.

Boy this look familiar. LOL

Installed my thermostat housing with a restrictor and then installed my Morimoto tail lights and side marker lights. I still have the headlights to install. Getting there.

The rear taillight quality is good. I was surprised they didn't fit like chit. Fingers crossed on the headlights. I need to get it in my garage to use my 1/4in air rachet on all those 10mm bolts.

Headlights are in. Pictures of my intercooler are posted on Instagram.

I have been working on tuning my boost by gear/rpm. I stopped because it got cold. Time to get back at it. I can throw 17psi of boost at it on the streets with R888r tires in 2nd gear. That is 768whp. I need to fine tune it some more, then 3rd gear work will begin. I am just not that motivated these days. Life has me busy.

Poking around looking at T56 swap. PPG offers a sequential gearset for them from what I remember. If I ever get serious the trans is gonna scatter. It is a miracle it made it this long.

Crazy arse PPG sequential gearset for a T56 is 18k. I just wanted to see how much it would cost.

I am waiting for the new 2wd PPG Sequential to be released. Air shifted for the win. I can upshift and downshift with the Emtron via the paddles with no clutch. Only have to use the clutch to get going.

If you haven't figured it out, this what I want to do with my transmission. I have an Emtron standalone I want to use every bit of.

Welp, the Sequential cost is just crazy. It is more than what folks had in their twin turbo builds from year ago. The DCT swap is less than 1/2 that. I have time to ponder what I am going to do. DCT has been done, is available, and my Emtron can run it with no problem. That may be the way I go. I will sit right her at 900whp until I figure it out. Any power above this and the trans will be unreliable. At 800tq they are a ticket time bomb. They scatter really quick.

I've seen a few JZ/DCT builds pop up recently where they incorporated the sequential shifter and a functional clutch pedal; some very cool things you're able to do with those transmissions.

When at 1000whp or above, stuff just goes wrong no matter the platform. It is not a question of IF but When.

Talked with Forced Performance aka Xonarotor today. I have one more thing to optimize on my turbo kit. Not in a hurry right now to get it done. I will get to it eventually. I have a good bit of turbo at my disposal that is not being used, yet.

Not sure if I posted this. Someone asked me how I get my ideas. I dig like crazy for information all over the place. Other platforms, etc. Sometimes you hit a gold mine on stuff you never thought about.

The first half of my intake upgrade until I have boxes built to force air in. I won't run without air filters.

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...e-10951_xl.jpg

https://static.summitracing.com/glob...1037_ni_xl.jpg

I need to get two one bar map sensors hooked up to my Emtron to check for Atmospheric pressure about 4in. before the turbo compressor wheel inlet. One for each side. This will let me know if I need to increase the intake pipe sizes from 3in. to 4in. There is one bend at the radiator support which is in question. I have it on both sides. If I don't see 101kpa, then I will need to redo the turbo intake pipes to make them more efficient.

I never thought I would see the day Admin Tuning is kicking everyone's butt with the 370z. He listens, he learns, and then he applies what he has learned. He has tuned many 900whp+ 370z's. He has several cars in the 4 sec 60 to 130 times. He earned it. If the old guard can't learn and refuses to change, they will never beat him. The only one that can come close right now is Hal, at Dynasty. He tunes Kyles car.

He has left a trail of broken motors.

Noop, He has several of the fastest 370z's out there. 60 to 130 times dep into the 4's. Obviously he listened and moved a big jump forward. Other shops are doing the same old bullcrap. It's like they can't learn.

The number of manual cars destroying transmission lately is insane. Get close to 800ft/lb of TQ, they don't last long at all. Input shafts, 3rd gear, 5th and 6th gear. That's why I am just watching the show lately.

These ideas still work with our cars.

WOW, I went back and watched the Fast Intentions video about Ryans car. I know why he took out his headgaskets. The Stage Seb turbo's have the same turbine wheel as my turbos. At 29psi of boost the drive pressure ratio is at least 2 to 1. I have a 55mm compressor wheel and a 76mm exhaust turbine. The Stage Seb turbos have a 58mm compressor wheel with the 76mm exhaust turbine (I called and verified, it is different since it is a G35 frame turbo). Wish they would have called me before turning it up to 30psi of boost.

I have learned so much over the last 4 years it is crazy. If you want a +1000whp Z, put the car on an Emtron standalone and install a butt load of sensors so you can see what is going on before you destroy an engine.

No more than Seb or SOHO over the years. You just don't hear about those. Seb messed up Ryans engine because he wouldn't reach out for help. If they would have told me the turbo specs back then on the Seb turbos I would have told him there was a problem at 29psi of boost. Now Ryan has a Seb engine puking coolant. First time he turned it up to 28psi of boost. I guess Seb had a map for 28psi. So Ryan has 2 engines with problems. I gave him some things to try to see what happens on his Seb engine. He is like Mr. Squeeze and I, cooked. Just tired of having to figure all this out on our own and with our own money. Most of our VQ tuners have no clue.

Get it. Now you know what drive pressure is and where to measure it. EMAP's measure drive pressure. Backpressure is measured after the turbine wheel of the turbo.

Building a fast car is not cheap.

I have talked with Forced Performance a couple of times. One question I had was if my limit would be 28psi of boost with my new setup like my old setup was. The answer is no. My new changes will change where the drive pressure limit is. It will move depending on several factors. So the limit on my car will be different than on someone else's car. I won't be able to give anyone the data on where their limit may be.

We also talked about being on a high quality standalone and Ecutek. Ecutek has many blind spots where the tuner can't see a thing. They are just guessing everything is OK until it is not. Remember, you signed that waver in case your engine goes boom. At 800whp and up, that is like play Russian roulette with your engine. Guess who gets left holding the bag? You do. The Emtron is saving my engine with all the data I have. I wouldn't have a dang clue with Ecutek (Been there before). I refused to fix my car last time without going to a standalone.

Here is my list of extra sensors.

Oil Pressure
Coolant Pressure
Fuel Pressure
2- IAT's
2- Bosch Motorsport Lambda sensors (My car is tuned via Lambda)
6- EGT Sensors with EGT Can bus module
2- Emap sensors
1- Add on I/O box for additional sensors

Sensors I need to add:
2- 1 BAR Map sensors to optimize turbo intakes
2- Turbo shaft speed sensors. Need to drill the compressor covers to do it. No time soon.

I sent this list to a VQ tuner and they laughed at me. I guess the laugh is on them now.

Interesting.

Let me drop a bit of knowledge. The thermostat on our cars causes all kinds of grief with coolant pressure. It will cause the coolant pressure to go higher than radiator cap pressure and you will puke coolant. It will keep puking until it opens up an air pocket and the car overheats. This has been verified a while ago with 3 different cars on standalones with coolant pressure sensors. All of our cars showed 25 to 28psi at 7500 to 8000 rpm. The easiest way to correct the issue is to remove the thermostat. Coolant pressure will then run around cap pressure depending on coolant temps. The cars that are running Ecutek for coolant pressure only show about 15-17psi. I am not sure why. It appears the sample rate for the sensor they are hijacking is very low. My Emtron samples at 1000hz. That is 1000 times a second. I know the 3 standalone cars are accurate. Ecutek, I do not think so. I have helped people with the factory header tanks, 2012 and up 370z's and ones that are not. The cars with the factory header tanks are better but they still puke coolant. This whole-time people have thought they had a headgasket issue and didn't. The only way to tell for sure is to get a baseline at low boost when you tune your build. With my car at 12psi of boost and revving to 7800 rpms my pressure was 25psi. Revving to 8000 rpms it was 27psi. Reason, the water pump was spinning faster. So, the thermostat is the cause of the pressure going above the radiator cap. That is the restriction causing problems. I have helped a couple of people with this problem and it holds true. No more puking coolant. All this time and nobody has ran a coolant pressure sensor on the VQ's with a standalone.

Is there a replacement thermostat with faster polling you use instead?

I used a Z1 170 deg thermostat. It did the same thing. The thermostat just reacts too slow and is a restriction. I tried it, didn't work,

Installed my Vibrant Bellmouths and AFE air filters today. The car was butter smooth before with my Emtron. It is even smoother now. Throttle response is excellent. I didn't have time to drive it too much tonight but what I felt was extremely good. I will never ever go back to Ecuteck and the factory ECU.

Wonder if the Mishimoto or ISR thermostats are any better. They advertise lower temp opening but not polling rate or flow rate.