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Originally Posted by Chuck33079 When it comes to the airbag, do it right. Don't halfass it or just leave it out. Next time it could save your life. You have
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#1 (permalink) | |
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I will definitely put a replacement passenger seat with an unused airbag. And Ill see what I can do about the side airbag or a roll cage, whichever is cheaper
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#2 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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![]() Cheap shouldn't be a consideration. You've dropped a LOT of money on go-fast parts. Keeping your *** alive shouldn't be where you shop based on price. A cage sounds like a good idea, but do you want to drive around with a helmet all the time? Hit your head on one of those bars in a fender bender and you could end up a vegetable.
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#3 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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I bought a RPM 4 point roll bar not to long after boosting my car just have the extra protection. They also make a 6 point that doesn't include the front bar that Chuck is talking about and is why I suggested a 6 point. I suggest that anyone that is boosted get at least a good 4 point roll bar because upside down is no good period.
You were pretty smart about how you went about building your car, now go after keeping yourself safe in the same way. We aren't hating on you just trying to support you in saying safe while enjoying your creation. Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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#4 (permalink) | ||
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Quote:
Quote:
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#5 (permalink) | |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Quote:
A full cage is for a full racecare...track only!
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#6 (permalink) |
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[QUOTE=Hotrodz;3769587]I bought a RPM 4 point roll bar not to long after boosting my car just have the extra protection. They also make a 6 point that doesn't include the front bar that Chuck is talking about and is why I suggested a 6 point. I suggest that anyone that is boosted get at least a good 4 point roll bar because upside down is no good period.
You were pretty smart about how you went about building your car, now go after keeping yourself safe in the same way. We aren't hating on you just trying to support you in saying safe while enjoying your creation. Sent from my SM-G965U using
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|| ECUTEK (Eugene) || A2A || IPP Built Motor Stage IV Spec || RJM Short Block || Quaife LSD || KW V3 || Stillen-Exhaust || 11.0.1 CR || 928 Full Rebuild || CPZ 34 Row Oil Cooler || Last edited by cupcakez; 07-07-2018 at 01:01 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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thanks i tried to be smart about the build.
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#8 (permalink) |
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If they are going to take it and if the price to buy it back after their check given to me is too much then I will decline the totaling of the car and take car home and attempt to sell it whole.
Because a lot of the parts are still new, and taking into consideration the damage costs on it at the moment, which id probably about 8k I would estimate, Id sell it for 30 - 34k depending on certain minor factors (obv im open to negotiate). But I think $30k - $34k is fair for the car as is.
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#9 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Dude, $34k would be a stretch for it if it was running. Take a look at what boosted zs have sold for. It's depressing.
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#10 (permalink) |
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Only said that price cause everything on there is really low mileage xD
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#11 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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Not relevant. Mods don't add a whole lot of value and it's been wrecked hard enough to blow airbags. Either you'll sell it at a substantial loss or you can get most of your mods sold off and stop the bleeding. If that doesn't work, fix it or you can buy another Z and swap the parts over.
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Okay, the engine nevertheless is still an engine, aftermarket or not. It has 875 miles and that's pretty much like a brand new car. The only parts that have a moderate amount of miles is the body and the interior. Almost everything else that makes the car run is new lol. So aftermarket or not, the main and critical parts are still fresh. Also, I did some research on how insurance is calculated in California and found that it works of off the TLF (Total loss formula). (Market price of current condition after accident) + (Total costs of repairs) > (Actual Cash Value of vehicle before Accident). If the left side is greater or equal to the right side, my car gets totalled. If not, its returned to me.
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#13 (permalink) |
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A lot of the insurance companies go by %. Normally 10% of value. If the repair is less then 10% of the value of the vehicle, then the vehicle gets fixed. If the repair is greater then 10%. The vehicle gets totaled.
My brother in law at one time worked in a junk yard. When they got cars in. They would look at the insurance papers, the year of vehicle, mileage, and blue book price. If the vehicle was what they call a 10%er. It would get fixed with a R-title. The junk yard made a nice profit of of them. The vehicle was totaled by the insurance but just had enough damage on it to go over the % rule. The junk yard had all the parts needed to fix it usually.
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#14 (permalink) |
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A True Z Fanatic
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You will do better parting it out
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#15 (permalink) |
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maybe but its a hassle id rather discount the entire thing if i sell it whole plus it comes with the tune...which the tuning i was doing on this car is phenomenal.
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