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chuck33079 - weve all done our research on stillen. we all know its flaws. we all know topgunz sells an a-a kit, and we all know the benefits to it. your not the only one that "knows everything". stillens kits install in 4 hours on the ground, that's the only reason I went with it. and that includes installing a 34 row z1 setrab oil cooler kit and a frozenboost intercooler. and your right, I already has a stage 4 clutch installed with a lightweight flywheel, tilton racing master and a zspeed slave. but again, installing a clutch in one of these can be done in under an hour on a hoist so its not like I saved much time.
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Might as well knock $150 off for test pipes. Still cant figure out how you used test pipes with the BP kit. :tup: |
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I didn't even think of that, just chose the BP kit for the list since it is one of the least expensive and most DIY friendly options out there for going FI. |
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chuck33079 - you make no sense. no kits come with clutch upgrades, so if your going to add that price to the stillen kit then I guess we need to jump the rjm kit to 20k just so it has all your "supporting mods that are mandatory due to chucks law" . and I mean why stop there? lets add a forged block to the kit too and a quafe diff. the only thing mandatory is the oil cooler kit - and stillen offers their gold cooler for free, but I already had z1's better cooler. Theres countless forums on what can be improved on stillens kit, but if you think theyre wont be pages upon pages on the rjm kit, youre again wrong, just wait till its released.
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We need a train derailing emoji.
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Where in there did I specify that those numbers were only the cost of the kit? In fact, the phrase "out the door" traditionally means your total all-in cost. |
Keep it civil guys!
The recent development meeting went really well! It looks like RJM is going to be making its pulleys in house! They have already set their eyes on a self aligning cog belt and a first round on the pulley setup. Their new CNC machine for this project should be at their new location by the end of the week or the beginning of next week. Once it's in place, been leveled and all their programs loaded they are going to cut the first few units to test fit the final product. It's getting close guys and as soon as everything is up and running they are already looking at releasing product images and pricing! Also for those arguing under $10k builds how many of you factored in fuel components and billet AN fittings or quality hoses or even billet water pumps? The reason I ask is because the RJM kit is going to be a really high end kit on the quality scale for the price! When you guys see the parts list your going to go wow! How did they do that for so cheap!!! The retail on their AN fittings alone are $$$... they are using nice nylon braided hoses stainless steel hardware... everything they can make out of billet they are... yeah you can hack a stillen kit and be about the same price but I would put my money on the RJM kit kicking that stillen kits butt down the track every time! Yes you can half *** a build under $10k but it won't be a build that easily scales to 1000hp... the RJM kit does and will. Just stay patient they are working everyday on the kit. |
Don't matter to me if I spend a month of Sunday's installing a boosted kit.
I know what happens when people rush work & at my age...Quality over quantity anytime! |
Why are they making their own pulleys, because when I read about cog and whipple it's usually someone looking for anyone who has done it, followed by replies about it being a bad idea for a street car. And talk about noise! A cogged whipple is anything BUT quiet.
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1. Simpler pulley setup 2. If you break a supercharger belt you only break the supercharger belt not the serpentine belt. Meaning you can limp the car to get a new belt or off the road. 3. Better grip than a 6 rib 4. Scalability! 5. Cost savings Why are they making their own pulleys? Well they are making them for this specific application. Why is it an issue? It's not that loud and it's perfectly fine for street driving. |
Also it is extremely common to go cog drive on the whipple...
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Really? Hmmm. I've yet to see anything positive about running cog on a daily driver. http://www.lightningrodder.com/forum...cs/1424?page=1 https://www.svtperformance.com/forum...ystem.1076812/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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So I am going to stand on the side that it's going to be fine. Given my experiences so far I haven't seen any issues. |
The whole point of a cog setup is to reduce the amount of tension needed and thus not put as much stress on the bearings in the snout and on the crank pulley.
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Which makes sense, just like if your tires let go on the street. If they would never slip, we would see a lot more snapped axles and driveshafts. I do know COG will make a whinning noise compared to ribbed. It is caused from the when the belt meets the cog, it squeezes air out so quickly and repeatedly that a whinning noise is made. In fact, on some setups this is what you hear over the supercharger. It is not going to sound like a firetruck by any means but it will be audible. However, to the point of good taste. I love it. :driving: |
So an update on the hood. After waiting nearly two months fly1 was unable to send me an FRP hood. So at this point I got a refund and they were good on that. So now I am looking for another donor hood.
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Like I said, I'm excited for them to come out with something new, these cars lack torque in the lower end. I'm just curious how far it's needed to go in order to get that whipple to fit. |
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Straight from Whipple then. Regarding the W175ax supercharger on a cog pulley. Y'all have fun!
Attachment 120668 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
Sock vs already upgraded 7AT
Please bare with me and keep in mind I am still learning about our cars, even though I've owned mine since it was new in 2010.
I read through the entire 37 page thread and I have not seen anyone ask this question. The Stage 1 kit on a STOCK engine will still be ok with a stock 7AT. Now...how does that work if the stage one does put it close to the stock 7AT limits and you already have the dual cold air intakes, headers, straight pipe or hi-flow cats, and cat back exhaust. Won't those extra mods that add a decent amount of extra power push the stage 1 over the limits of the 7AT? Also, the intercooler placement, how will that affect those that already have an oil and trans cooler. I am asking because I already have the Stillen Dual cold air intakes, headers, hi-flow cats, cat back exhause, and Oil and trans coolers. I am definetely insterested in driving my car down to your shop around the end of this year and having the trans upgrade and your stage 2 kit installed, maybe a few extras depending on the price. |
The 7AT is marginal even with the Stillen kit which produces far less torque lower in the RPM range than a positive displacement supercharger. I can't imagine the transmission lasting long with any spirited driving.
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True and the 400wtq is just a guideline. Its not like if you keep it at 390wtq you are guaranteed to not have a problem. Someone could go 50K over 400wtq and the next guy could make it 5K under 400wtq.
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Isn't the 7AT rated at 295ft./lbs stock? I know there's another version rated at 400+, not sure why no one has explored this route unless the OEM TCU's are quite different and one can't control the other.
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There could be more to it. Business stuff.
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Just a thought here. You can tell me if this will work or not but, what if one of the pulleys was used to drive the blower instead of the crank?
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You cannot drive the supercharger off an idler pulley. |
Why hasn't RJM addressed this yet...? :confused:
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As I understand it, a cog system -- if its well designed -- should be fine. Whipple's statement is probably based on what they have factory tested and are willing to guarantee.
Now the more more you overdrive it, the more strain on the blower's internals, so if these come stock with a V belt or synchronous set up, people who try to up the boost probably switch to a cog system, and that may or may not cause overload issues separate from, but magnified by, a high efficiency cog set up. On any blower, belt stretch, pulley warping, and damaged internals can happen as load increases, and the likelihood of that increases a lot as you increase the RPMs the blower turns at, so Whipple may just be sticking to the specs they have in print for a given blower, rather than panning a different set-up entirely. Or am I on the wrong track here? :confused: Bullitt, can you weigh in on this? |
Whipple's concern is in regards to their snouts. Given that a cog belt has dramatically less slip there testing and I quote from Mike himself 15 years ago was not good for longevity. Now again this testing was done 15 years ago... their policy is to not recommend a cog setup based on that data period. But since it is a concern for people rj mfg has is taking the time to design at least an 8 rib setup.
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Doesn't sound like an insurmountable problem, tho'. |
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But at the same time I know the guys at RJ MFG just want to sell kits and if people are hesitant about cog that could lead to less sales... they can get the same traction with an 8 or 10 rib setup. So I think that's the route they will go... cog has a lot of benefits but reliability is one of the number one items about this kit. |
Why not just have an optional COG setup? Wouldnt it just be 3 pullies and a belt?
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