You are correct

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http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psp5ydobj3.jpg

Well you an definitely see that ports are open to air in that picture. Ill plug it later. So now to figure out the overboost.

YzGyz

Do it! You wont regret it, I have not even started my install and have no regrets. This and Sasha takes care of you in every turn and really stands behind his product.

SO I vote go

I wish this would have been on the forum somewhere, I spent a few hours double checking to make sure I have everything in preparation for this weekend.


I dont understand how you are over boosting, with the open port your basically spring pressure.... What color spring are you running and what boost are you hitting?

I am doing my cjm fuel install tomorrow along with my 340LPH pump from Sasha, it seems most people just plug the connectors back up but I want to soldier them on to be safe and heat shrink them.. I am assuming the normal black heat shrink form advanced auto will not hold up to E85?

Also when we solder on the new wiring for the new pump what are we supposed to heat shrink it with?

Thanks in advance,

A few years back I found low temp solder crimps and I've never looked back. I just push the wires together then use a heat gun. The low temp solder settles in and the tubes seal themselves with the bands. They used to be really easy and quick to get but now it takes a couple weeks. If you want to wait a couple days I can bag some up and send them to you.

BP V 2.0 turbo kits...ROUND 3 place your order now
 

Use marine grade heat shrink. It has glue on the inside so when you heat it up it seals the connection. It's what you want to use on external wiring. Inside the cab doesn't matter as much but you might as well continue on with it.

Sooooo. There's still one kit left right? :excited:

Two questions for you guys.

First does my attached vacuum diagram seem correct? Assuming all intersection is T and port 3 on greddy EBS is atmosphere.

Secondly how the F did yuu guys get your cjm line up and over the fuel tank.....


http://s33.postimg.org/figfim41b/Bla...t_New_Page.jpg

I wouldn't run it that way. Take your EBC source pressure and take it from the manifold or Tee the charge pipe again. If you controller is controlling maximum boost from the compressor cover itself you will never see that boost at the manifold.

I'd also run an independent line for the BOV and tap the manifold again for the Greddy/AEM.

Also for any lines requiring different size vacuum line, I'd tap for that size specifically.

For example my boost gauge and the controller for my EBC are 4mm but the rest of the system is 6mm. So I tapped the manifold for both.

The wastegate diagram is just fine. EBC's don't need vacuum to operate, as they only control pressure with pressure. Taking the EBC boost source from the compressor will work just fine.

BOV should have it's own vacuum source (it only works on vacuum), and there is a drill bit , tap and nipple included in the kit for this. If you wish to tap your manifold in more places, you can just get another nipple with a 1/8" npt thread. These are available in all hardware stores and auto supply stores. Cost about $1ea.

That is exactly how I ran my vacuum lines. No issue here. You might want to order another 20' of vacuum line I know I needed it

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I have to pass obdii computer check here in NC, anyway to avoid the CEL on this kit? Really can't see myself taking it off and then re-installing it once a year.

Once you're tuned, there's no CEL. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't throw one on the canned base map either, but I'm not 100% on that. You'll still fail on a visual check if they're that anal retentive.

I was under the impression that you will still fail if you "tune out" the CEL. I thought the machine had to get a reading in order to pass. Was I misinformed? The visual I think I can get around, just unsure how to go about the computer part.