The eboost2 boost controller can display boost so technically you can get a regular AFR gauge. Save a few coins... Are you running the defi gauges up top? Why are u running the factory oil gauge plus leaving the factory gauge in? You can replace it for an e85 content gauge. Innovate makes a good one. I'm getting my oil temp gauge tap into my Z1 oil spacer.


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I was under the impression that you can't divide up the stock gauges, either they all stay or all go.

True I just took one apart. Its all one piece.

The amount of uneducated "suggestions" and advise in this thread absolutely drives me nuts! From the crash bar, to gauges, to individual solutions, if you don't even own a Z, stop "being the expert", let alone if you own a Z and haven't dealt with a particular setup or product 1st hand, don't suggest it or how to use it :gtfo2:

^^^correct!! Its a "cluster"

So if I want to change out the cluster gauges I would loose the ecutek ability for traction control setting visuals and anything else using oil temp gauge. No work around or way to ungrounded it? I am electrical savvy.

Fixed, get a Galeforce pillar gauge pod!

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I would'nt bet on a workaround but it may be possible. When I tore the thing apart last week there were only 5 wires to the main harness on it. ( Constant , Switched, Ground and the other two I assumed were input to the oil temp but I'm a cop not an engineer so don't trust that. ) The assembly itself is much cheesier than you would imagine since it's hidden behind the hoods and the dash. The other discovery is that once you pull the hoods off you are permanently in double sided tape land. A second but important thing to remember ( I knew it before I glued but I still did'nt pay attention. ) IF you decide to go custom guages mark the hood and the gauge housings in 1,2,3 order because if you permanently afix the gauges to a housing thats your permanent order unless you feel like breaking them apart and putting them in the order you initially wanted. ( I will be showing Oil temp, AFR and Oil press. I wanted to show Oil Temp , Oil Press and AFR )

If there is wires instead of PCB going to the oil temp gauge I can certainly solder extension wires and cap the rest of the stiff off belonging to volt and clock. My goal would be to get the oil temp into the cubby for on the fly ecutek changes.

Any pictures by chance?

I can snap a pic and send it to you tonight. What do you need a picture of ? If you want I can break up the assembly so you can see the back of how it's connected or just show you the harness which I cut to solder my own connections to for switched power, ground and constant. The only thing it's missing is the orange which I have to tap from somewhere else for the headlights. The problem with going your route is that you'll need to remove the dash to keep it intact. A bonus though is that since the donor pod I used is whole you can basically do what I did. You can have the pod just to experiment with what you need to do to make it work. I have everything I need off of it. I'm keeping the connector though.

I found pictures online, it is not nearly as modular as I thought. Its a complete piece and not worth digging into at this time with all the other things going on (clutch, fluids, BP). I think im going to just get a galeforce pod with A/F, boost/controller.

Do you have a picture of your finished setup?

Or be handy a spend a crap ton of time and build a pod thing to your taste. However, the GF set is top tier stuff. I just wanted to be different that's all. If only I know how to lay CF really well. Anyhoo, I'd place the more important gauges in places of best and most view. For instance if I replaced the 3 stock ones. From left to right it would be oil pressure, afr, boost, then oil temp somewhere else.

I only have a ebc/boost Guage (eboost street) and afr. They are at eye level and in front of the oem triple Guage cluster.

YzGyz

Well at least you made me feel a bit better. I paid a grip for some really good bonding glue and I got my money's worth because I'd have to break $hit to get it apart. I'm now stuck with AFR in the middle of Oil temp and Oil pressure. But who cares...............I got my tracking#:ughdance::tiphat:

Where did you put your EBC and what gauges did you go with?

I bought a Kuda phone mount and swivel ball. It's a Greddy Profec OLED so its compact. It's gonna be mounted right of th shift console.

Beautiful kit and beautiful numbers! I want one so bad!

If I already have a z1 oil cooler kit, would that work with this kit?

Also does anyone have pics of exactly where the kit mates up to a cbe?
I saw sasa has an option to fit the FI cbe, and another leaving a long pipe to cut to custom length, but I'm just curious how much space the kit piping takes up before the cbe itself starts if that makes sense.

Bobbylight, this kit comes with its own oil cooler so the Z1 is not really necessary. The kit also mates up to the CBE toward the rear of the transmission in the factory location where the factory Y pipe ends.

Oh I see, kind of. I can't really tell from what I can see from the e370 option on page one - In the pic below, would it bolt up at the first muffler (red circle), or would it bolt up behind it (yellow circle)?. Just curious as I am exhaust shopping at the moment and wondering if the motordyne would be worth the $ over say, a tomei single if half of it will come off when I boost it.

http://i64.tinypic.com/25kps3p.png

And about the Z1 cooler, I was asking if it would work because I just installed mine last week :ughdance:


EDIT: upon more google-fu I am guessing the kit would bolt up before the first muffler of the e370 (red circle).

You could use your Z1 kit and sell the pieces that come with the BP kit. You may have to use the lines with the BP kit though. I can't remember exactly how the V2 is setup.

The Tomei would actually be a better pair with the BP kit if it utilizes the stick mounting point. I used a modified AAM 350z exhaust on my BP kit. The reason I had to modify it was because the exhaust was a couple of inches too long since it was made for a 350z.

Dragon had it correct. The kit stops where the factory y-pipe would end. The exhaust you posted isn't an OEM exhaust so the comparison isn't really valid.

As for your Oil Cooler, Sasha will happily not send you the kit oil cooler and just credit you The cost.

V2 retains OEM location. If the car already has an aftermarket oil cooler or you choose to use a different kit, its 100% okay, just needs the oil pan spacer or CJM's full pan replacement.

^^^ what he said :tup:

I just cleaned my WG to try and fix my overboost problem. As I was getting ready to reinstall the WG, I noticed that I have this MVS port open. Is this my problem?

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psd8xvegmw.jpg

YzGyz

Bottom 3 ports should have 1 hooked to vacuum line - and 2 should be plugged - top ports helps control closing the wastegate 1 should be plugged and other to Boost controller.

If you are missing a plug from bottom - this is why you would be overboosting - if missing plug from top ports
you probally won't be able to boost over spring pressure.

Jwick/Sasha - feel free to correct me if I am wrong.

The above is correct.

What color springs do you have in the wastegates, what is your actual peak boost, and at what RPM does this occur?

Sasha, I'm in Red Deer and the curiosity about this kit is growing more and more... I may have to pay you a visit in the near future. I know Don (from Fort Mc) also want to get this kit in the near future so I'm very curious.

I have the red spring inside right now. I'm making ~8lbs when I reach near red line.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...pscp2wr5ij.jpg

With the 7.25;b spring, I was making ~13.xx with the yellow 7.25lb spring. This was with the top of the WG open to air.

My side ports are closed with 2 plugs each. the open port is connected to the driver side charge pipe with a "tee." My WG had a good amount of carbon build up so I just cleaned them last night. Maybe the carbon build up was causing resistance and the diaphragm inside required a few more lbs of pressure to push against the spring. I do have 10k miles on the kit. Lots of smiles along the way!

I literally just took these pictures. You can see the 2 plugged ports in each picture. The top ports are left open (as you can see) so I can measure spring pressure to check if things are running right.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psdaybupvn.jpg
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psdhugmndj.jpg

There was someone asking about where the turbo kit meets the CBX (I have FI). I went ahead and took this picture for you since I was already down there. You can see the metal flange by the lift's big blue bar. The BP kit does away with two "S" looking pipes on the FI CBX.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psq7yfn6bt.jpg

Here is a back to front view of the save flange where the two kits connect.
http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psk40lyyjp.jpg

CanadianSteel, You will be so pleased with the kit. Such a good kit! and stellar CS!!

YzGyz

Can I ask anyone for the model spark plug that they received and if it was the stock gap that it was set to?

Jax, the plugs were gapped, the model is NGK Laser Iridium DILKAR 8A893026. Call me when you can. Ive hit some standstill walls and can't do crap right now.

I do have an extra spark plug socket brand new that I don't need

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The spark plugs are GTR R35's and are gapped already.

You can use a 3/8" drive 14mm (9/16") deep socket for the spark plugs, along with some needle nose pliers. There is no need for a special spark plug socket.

Thanks for the info Sasha, the reason i'm asking about the plugs is because I didn't have them in my shipment and now I've also notice the air filter is not in my kit either. Can you get me a list that I can run down and check off and also get with me about these two items? I had my install scheduled this weekend and the plugs are ok albeit pricey for a spark plug but the filter is a one of piece I cant source.

Thank you in advance,

I purchased my set of plugs from RockAuto.com. They had a very good price compared to most other places. If I remember correctly, RockAuto was charging $16 each where everyone else was charging $20 or more each.

My spark plugs came inside my WG box when I got my kit.

In all honesty I didn't check the waste gate box that well. I pulled some pieces out of the foam sleeves to look at it but didn't empty it out. How would 6 plug boxes be in there with the minimal room?

The most pressing thing is the air filter, if it truly has an angle then I cannot source it and really... really.. don't want to run this without one but I need to install and tune this weekend.

It might have been the BOV box. Been a few years. I'll see if I can't dig up a pic

I appreciate it man

If for whatever reason you guys are missing the plugs please let me know....email is best. If you purchased them yourself, I will cover the charges for the plugs and shipping.

After speaking with you I believe its just the spark plugs and air filter that are missing with which you have promptly mailed out in time for my install and with how extensive this kit is I can understand the oversight.

Your awesome and I dont know about everyone else who is at the same stage as me but I cant wait to get this done and on the road :yum:


On a side note can you help me with the intercooler piping, I am trying to confirm I have all fittings and am familiar with orientation before I go borrow the lift for installation.

I have went in order from turbo to intercooler as follows:
turbo out 2.5" to 2" 45 degree coupler --> 2" pipe --> 2" to 2.5" coupler --> 2.5" pipe with dent --> 2.5" 90 degree coupler --> 2.5" elbow pipe --> short 2.5" coupler --> long U piping with bov flange --> 2.5" to 3" coupler into intercooler


http://s33.postimg.org/evn8vn3lb/201...13_resized.jpg

http://s33.postimg.org/3zijefvfz/201...47_resized.jpg

http://s33.postimg.org/6b40yp627/201...06_resized.jpg

http://s33.postimg.org/3qznwhkof/201...45_resized.jpg

http://s33.postimg.org/ejbh06l7z/201...53_resized.jpg

That is correct.

Just want to say great customer service from Sasa, I'm still looking for that air leak on my car and he replied with in the hour. He really stands behind his product. Thanks again!

Anyone know the big differences between the journal bearing and ball bearing upgrade? I thought I read the ball bearing turbos have even less turbo lag. I'm seriously contemplating this kit