I'm talking about the port that is on the side reading MVS above it. What do we do with this port? The port on the top by "Tial" in currently open to air for spring pressure but will be hooked to the EBC Soleniod after I figure out the overboost problem. 2 of the bottom ports are plugged as shown in the picture I posted before. The third of the bottom is also hooked to the EBC Solenoid.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps1evaq78q.jpg

YzGyz

That's how mine looked when I mocked it up in the living room.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...ps9ylafxga.jpg

YzGyz

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...2275858fdb.jpg

I have no open ports except for the h20. I do have a ebc connected. Two ports in top are for ebc. Plug unused one

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What Turbo did you get because my inlet housing is different??

It appears that the MVS port is plugged. I can't really see it too well as it is blurry. I'm thinking It need to be blocked as that port seems to share the same cavity as the top port with will be connected to my EBC.

Man I need to get this oil thing fixed and the rain to go away. I need to figure this out. Kinda annoying me.

I got the standard journal bearing one with no options at all.

YzGyz

You are correct

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http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/d...psp5ydobj3.jpg

Well you an definitely see that ports are open to air in that picture. Ill plug it later. So now to figure out the overboost.

YzGyz

Do it! You wont regret it, I have not even started my install and have no regrets. This and Sasha takes care of you in every turn and really stands behind his product.

SO I vote go

I wish this would have been on the forum somewhere, I spent a few hours double checking to make sure I have everything in preparation for this weekend.


I dont understand how you are over boosting, with the open port your basically spring pressure.... What color spring are you running and what boost are you hitting?

I am doing my cjm fuel install tomorrow along with my 340LPH pump from Sasha, it seems most people just plug the connectors back up but I want to soldier them on to be safe and heat shrink them.. I am assuming the normal black heat shrink form advanced auto will not hold up to E85?

Also when we solder on the new wiring for the new pump what are we supposed to heat shrink it with?

Thanks in advance,

A few years back I found low temp solder crimps and I've never looked back. I just push the wires together then use a heat gun. The low temp solder settles in and the tubes seal themselves with the bands. They used to be really easy and quick to get but now it takes a couple weeks. If you want to wait a couple days I can bag some up and send them to you.

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Use marine grade heat shrink. It has glue on the inside so when you heat it up it seals the connection. It's what you want to use on external wiring. Inside the cab doesn't matter as much but you might as well continue on with it.

Sooooo. There's still one kit left right? :excited:

Two questions for you guys.

First does my attached vacuum diagram seem correct? Assuming all intersection is T and port 3 on greddy EBS is atmosphere.

Secondly how the F did yuu guys get your cjm line up and over the fuel tank.....


http://s33.postimg.org/figfim41b/Bla...t_New_Page.jpg

I wouldn't run it that way. Take your EBC source pressure and take it from the manifold or Tee the charge pipe again. If you controller is controlling maximum boost from the compressor cover itself you will never see that boost at the manifold.

I'd also run an independent line for the BOV and tap the manifold again for the Greddy/AEM.

Also for any lines requiring different size vacuum line, I'd tap for that size specifically.

For example my boost gauge and the controller for my EBC are 4mm but the rest of the system is 6mm. So I tapped the manifold for both.

The wastegate diagram is just fine. EBC's don't need vacuum to operate, as they only control pressure with pressure. Taking the EBC boost source from the compressor will work just fine.

BOV should have it's own vacuum source (it only works on vacuum), and there is a drill bit , tap and nipple included in the kit for this. If you wish to tap your manifold in more places, you can just get another nipple with a 1/8" npt thread. These are available in all hardware stores and auto supply stores. Cost about $1ea.

That is exactly how I ran my vacuum lines. No issue here. You might want to order another 20' of vacuum line I know I needed it

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I have to pass obdii computer check here in NC, anyway to avoid the CEL on this kit? Really can't see myself taking it off and then re-installing it once a year.

Once you're tuned, there's no CEL. I'm pretty sure you wouldn't throw one on the canned base map either, but I'm not 100% on that. You'll still fail on a visual check if they're that anal retentive.

I was under the impression that you will still fail if you "tune out" the CEL. I thought the machine had to get a reading in order to pass. Was I misinformed? The visual I think I can get around, just unsure how to go about the computer part.

Depends where you live. I'm catless completely and I pass here in Texas. My tuner disabled the CEL and it never comes up.

I had already put my manifold back on, what options do I have?

I have top of waste gates into a T and then a single hose to battery box and its laying open to atmosphere right now?

I have the compressor nipple ran to battery box and its also open to atmosphere, I will plug this until I put EBC into use.

I have bottom of waste gates into a T that a single hose connects to driver side nipple

I have the BOV on the single tap in the front of the manifold.


I need to connect my greddy proec box near battery into a source?
I need to connect my aem failesafe wideband/boost gauge into a source and this runs all the way back into the cabin to the top of my dash... any ideas on source for it to?

I have assembled and cannot do another tap. I put my profec inline of the driver side niple and was seeing 18 to 21 psi so I parked it until I figure this out...

Thannks in advance,

Put a tee, or better yet plumb a vacuum block, in off the brake booster?

Can anyone look at the log and see if everything looks ok? it is an idle log and i cycle through AC a few times. I am getting what I perceive as an elevated idle when my AC is on. BP kit, 1150cc injectors.

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Has anyone had issues starting the vehicle after its already warm? I have to pump the accelerator a couple times to get it started


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I get that every once in awhile. It's not so much that it's hot. It's when I drive it pretty hard turn it off and then try to start it again in like 30 mins. It stumbles a tad but I give it a little throttle and it fires right up. If it's hot and I turn it off and back on almost immediately I have no issues (i.e. Pumping gas).

Thanks brother, idk why I don't just text you first :)


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I get the same thing, sitting overnight im fine although I have a longer crank time now. If it sits relatively short term (30 minutes or more) and its hot I get a stumbling start with 20 or so seconds of an almost stalling engine with little reaction from accelerator. I was thinking leaking injector but I oiled them and was careful during install of the 150cc. I think that my oil smells like gas but im probably paranoid...

On a s side not still tracking down a %10 difference from short term fuel trim from bank 1 to 2.. and this profec setting is getting the best of me....

I have a complete turn key kit ready to ship. The exhaust piping has been ceramic coated as well, and this will be at no extra charge.

So if anybody is interested, let me know, and this unit can be out the door pretty fast.

Sasha I sent you an email 2 weeks ago and a PM! DIBS!!!!

Sasha I sent you an pm and message on fb 3 WEEKS ago! DOUBLE DIBS!

You had the email spelled wrong, PM'd you back.

Sounds like I'll need to build another then :).

Sounds like you'll be waiting until next year.....;) lol

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Nope, I am trying to get some of these built in the summer now as well. It has been raining here a lot, so not much time to spend outside.

Don't you wish that evil on me Ricky Bobby! lol :/

I have a v2 kit and was wondering what brand fuel pump you all have? The pump I received with my kit was "credit parts" I have never heard of the brand before and when I looked it up it was a cheap $45 fuel pump from China. Is this safe to use? I'm glad I caught it before install... Can any previous users chime in? :ugh2:

I'm V1 but I couldn't honestly tell you. I just installed what came with the kit. I'm pretty sure it's an Aeromotive 340 but I didn't inspect it before I installed it. The box it came in had Phunk's name and address on the return label so Sasha bought it straight from him.

Yea this is definitely not an aeromotive, as I know the aeromotive is very distinctive color with branding on side this one says "credit parts"... I don't even know if it's 340lph

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Flip thru my build thread (click the signature link) and there are some pictures of me doing the pump install.

Everything is a little fuzzy after 30 months.

Yea I checked it out it's hard to tell from the pic can barely see it I've tried reaching out to Sasha through here and fb haven't gotten anything yet? Is he on vacation?