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OP needs a Thermostatic plate if he can't get over 140F when it's in the mid 40s to 60s. I have no problems heating my NA oil up to 180.
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OP needs a Thermostatic plate if he can't get over 140F when it's in the mid 40s to 60s. I have no problems heating my NA oil up to 180. Winter time I still install a partial block off plate because the thermostatic plate doesn't completely, nor should it, close. I suppose you can install a complete block off plate till it gets hot out again.
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Since we're on this topic what is an ideal operating temp for the oil....based on what I have read is it 180*?
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The 180 temp is typically considered the minimum for being completely warm. The ideal operating temp is likely around 200 or so. But I'm no expert.
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All of this. You want the oil hot enough to evaporate out the condensation in it. Too cold is more of an issue than too hot these days, since modern synthetics are good up to 300 or so. Not that you'd ever want to see those kind of temps, but the car won't spontaneously combust at 250.
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The design temp for most motors and oils is 212F or 100C. +-10% is perfectly fine, +20% isn't good but isn't terrible; but -20% and +-30% is bad and you should think about using a different viscosity.
For reference: ![]() Last edited by 2011 Nismo#91; 12-17-2015 at 08:43 AM. |
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The difference between oils is mostly why I was asking. I know we don't have to use the 5w30 ester oil from the dealer. However, will the ester help me do less damage since my engine is colder? or will a 0w weight? Or will anything for that matter?
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Unless you are talking very cold (below about 10F or so), the type of oil or a lower-than-spec viscosity isn't going to make much difference in a DD. Don't worry about lower viscosity if you live south of the Mason-Dixon line.
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