I went ahead and bought another.. Even if they repair the great pumpkin I'll just sell it ASAP. Not a fan of driving a previously wrecked car..

Right now my BIL and I are in a good rhythm working together but as crunch time approaches I may take you up on this! I'm definitely now for a party at JTRAN for the tuning though. We are shooting for the 28th.

What oil do you guys run in your forced cars? Need to pick some up next time we are out.

Also, we drained the radiator... Doesn't say to in the manual, but we figured it would alleviate some mess when we run the coolant lines.

Rotella Synthetic. Get it at Autozone.

If you have the room after the filter sandwich plate, IC piping and lines I recommend using the Pathfinder oil filter from the bigger V6. Same diameter but it's longer so you get a little more filter area.

Weight/visco?

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Only one option. It's T6 I think and I believe it's 5W-40. It's diesel but don't worry it basically eliminates blow by.

It's the blue bottle

Rotella T6 Full Synthetic for me TOO! Good stuff...

Might as well go to less coolant and more water when you fill it up. Those turbos are oil and water cooled, right?

These guys have the right idea. Works great, and a hell of a lot cheaper than Redline of Amsoil.

We are struggling to get the passenger side turbo manifold on. A heat shield covering evap and fuel hard lines hits the manifold. Any ideas? Going to take pics.

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Solved. There is a fuel line and shielding mod THIRTY PAGES LATER in the instructions that should have put in right after tear down. It's pretty clear to me that different techs wrote different sections of the manual and they were assembled together without a ton of thought.

Not solved. The shield we replace covers a fuel line and an evap line. The fuel line gets extended and the shield is replaced, but the pictures show the evap line just disconnected. Are we supposed to leave it that way?

I've uploaded the instructions to my google drive, here is the link:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B9s...ew?usp=sharing

The procedure in question is on page 77. On the other kits does the evap hose just get left unconnected?

Gamma has set up a two hour window tomorrow for phone support. It is a Christmas miracle. Today was a rough one with all the snags... All we really accomplished was getting the drivers side manifold snugged into place, not even torqued. I am concerned about the time line but hopeful it gets easier after the manifolds.

They did confirm that the purge hose is connected even though the instructions do not show it. Our fuel hard line is positioned in a way where we can not fit the gamma heat shield so we are still stuck on the passenger manifold.

Wish us a little more luck tomorrow. Time to rest.

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Yep.

Thanks for the suggestions guys we will do that!

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Another long day. We Finally got tech support as promised this morning and it has been a HUGE help. It doesn't feel like much got done today, but it was productive in getting us over the hurdles that have been plaguing us.

Got the drivers side manifold torqued, drivers side lower water hose replaced. Broke a clamp on the upper hose. Finally understood WTF is going on with the fuel/purge lines on the pass side. Removed main harness cover on pass side and begun rewrapping it, finished preassembly and wastegate tensioning for both turbos.

While under the car I noticed that it also already has SPC front and rear camber arms. Not sure if the springs are factory or not.. didn't really notice if it was dropped and I only had it for a matter of hours before we started tearing it down.
Picked up some T6 oil as folks here have suggested! Thanks!

I want to leave a bunch of notes for GrooveStyle (Same kit, a few days behind us) here while they are fresh in my mind before sleep... Also, our support suggested we might be able to help refine the manual when we finally finish..

Install the replacement water hose (above drivers side manifold) BEFORE you put in the drivers side exhaust manifold (manual has it after). We did it after, and it took some pretty out of the box thinking to get the damn hose on (dont even want to try and explain). The hose won't block access to any of the manifold nuts.

Also, you will need to remove the pointless bracket which is held on by two bolts at the back of the head on the drivers side, otherwise the hose and manifold do not both fit. there is no mention of this in the manual.

Speaking of the manifold nuts (drivers side), the bottom three and the rear top are accessed from the bottom of the car with a socket. The top front two have to be turned about a quarter turn at a time with an open ended wrench. We had to bend the hard water lines away from the block a few mm to reach.

The fuel line mod (page 76) should be partially performed before the passenger manifold is installed (somewhere around pg 45). The manual just shows you a picture with no purge hose and tells you to do it like that and it's impossible. 1) the purge hose stays on. 2) You have to bend the fuel hard line a little more than it is, then bend it toward the chassis/back of rhe car so it isnt pointed directly away from the chassis (which will make it impossible to install the new heat shield). We increased the factory bend with a tubing bender, then I bent it towards the back of the car (and closer to the chassis) with my hands.

When you add the fuel line extension, you have to push in that black piece and slip it over then release and it should be on there sturdy. DO NOT just try to force it on... that is what we did and it crinkled the epoxy coating on the hardline. Support suggested we strip it back all the way to the second bevel but we werent able to peel it and we ended up having to burn the coating off with a torch. Not fun to put a torch on a fuel line that still has some gas in it (got a little vapor flame). We are considering adding a soft clamp to hold the lines against the chassis as the instructed setup will still make contact with the heat shield. You'll want to put the supplied shield on AFTER you get your passenger manifold on.

Speaking of the passenger manifold, mine made contact with a plastic casing over the main wiring harness. As instructed by support, we've removed that casing (one bolt, one clip that you will need super long needle nose to reach) which required a lot of wrap to be cut away. We are rewrapping the harness and will heat wrap it and zip tie it in place. Hoping to get the passenger manifold on tomorrow when we complete all the dressings.

We also plan to heat wrap the AC line on the drivers side as it hangs a little close to the turbo, though it is more on the compressor side so not a huge worry.

When you are prepping the turbos... The drivers side the manual says to hook up the water feed line with the straight end. This line does not exist. There is a water line with a straight end, but this is the crossover line. I assume they meant the feed line which has a 45 on one end instead of two 90s. I guess I'll find out when I put them in.

On the passenger side turbo, my wastegate actuator rod didn't clear the bracket (could hook it up, but it made a little contact in the full closed position). I think this might have been a manufacturing defect, as the metal had ballooned out a little when the bracket was bent. I ended up having to grind a couple of mm of the bracket to give the actuator rod free movement. Also, orient the actuator so the nipple is facing the the heat shield you install on it. I got confirmation this is the proper orientation from our support guy.

I think that is everything we went through today... I hope it helps you man!