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F1 Style Rear Blinker

Hell yea! tell MCR to make it for sure!

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Old 07-23-2009, 02:47 PM   #91 (permalink)
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Hell yea! tell MCR to make it for sure!
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:35 PM   #92 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 370Ztune View Post
MCR has finalized their F1 blinker harness kit.

MCR - F1 Marker Harness Kit





-Hunter
- So in the end, what does this (non cheap) kit do??
- Any information we can read?
- What is the compatibility with Canadian models as we already have the fog ligth installed.


FYI:
I like the following options best.

1. Able to stay on with regular lights (same brightness as the rears)
2. Blinks when brakes are applied (4 times) then gets brighter like the brake lights.
3. Blinks when put in reverse.
4. Switch to disable
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Old 07-23-2009, 03:46 PM   #93 (permalink)
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Personally my favorite functionality setup (which is simpler to implement, too) is that there should be a manual switch to engage the fog light as a fog light (at fog light brightness, for use in fog like intended), and regardless of the position of the switch (on or off), it should flash F1-style at fog-light brightness when the car is in reverse.
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Old 07-29-2009, 07:23 PM   #94 (permalink)
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Old 08-06-2009, 11:31 PM   #95 (permalink)
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I am going to buy this soon, but I don't really like the look of the red, so I was thinking about just tinting over the red so it's alot darker, I have a white 370Z, and I'm trying to go for a white & black theme, what do u guys think about tinting it? And why is it so much, I know it's custom but dang, lol
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Old 08-07-2009, 07:02 PM   #96 (permalink)
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Call me crazy but couldn't you just use a thermal flasher for $3-$6 connected to the reverse light get the same effect on the rear fog?.....

If you wanted an extra switch in the cabin to turn it on you could just put toggle switch leads on the signal wire to your thermal relay and a diode on the signal wire going to the thermal relay from the reverse lights (the diode would prevent you from turning on your reverse lights from the toggle switch every time you switched it on.

HowStuffWorks "How Turn Signals Work"

Sorry this just seems like an incredible waste of money. The fact that this has been under development for this long is also baffling.

Edit:
Decided to do up a quick drawing (i know it i know, it was quick).

*I am not responsible for any damage using this circuit, this is a guide only*

Last edited by kdoske; 08-07-2009 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 08-07-2009, 08:47 PM   #97 (permalink)
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Looks like it would work kdoske. And it would be anywhere near the 300 or so that they are charging.
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:24 PM   #98 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdoske View Post
Call me crazy but...


Kdoske!!! No!!! It is even more simple than that... I've created the following instructions that anyone here should be able to follow, and a basic circuit diagram to go along with it:

Mark the PNP transistor by cutting 2mm from its collector lead. Super glue the PNP and NPN transistors together, face to face. Glue the FLED to the PNP. The FLEDs cathode is on the same side as the PNP s collector and the NPN s emitter. Solder the PNP s collector to the NPN s base. Bend the PNP s emitter up on a 90-degree angle. Bend the FLED s cathode and the NPN s emitter down on a 90-degree angle.About 2 mm from the FLED, bend the cathode towards the transistors at a 90-degree angle. Solder the NPN s emitter to the FLED s cathode. Clip the NPN s emitter clean, but leave the FLED s cathode long. Solder the FLED s cathode to the 4700 uF capacitor s cathode. Trim up the FLED clean Solder capacitor s anode to the PNP s emitter. Cut the PNP clean, but leave the capacitor s anode long. This will serve as the motor s positive mount. Take the 3.3K and 47K resistors. Wrap the 3.3K resistor lead around the 47K resistor s lead four times. Use a spot of super glue to keep the resistors together. Now take the 0.47 uF capacitor. Super glue it down on top of the resistors. Wrap one lead around the 47K resistor, and the other lead around the 3.3K resistor. Solder the resistors and capacitor together where the parts are wrapped. Clip the 0.47 capacitors leads clean. Solder the 47K resistor s top lead to the NPN s collector, and bottom lead to the FLED s anode. Solder the 3.3K resistor s bottom lead to the PNP s base. Trim it clean, but leave about 2 mm hanging off the NPN s collector for the motor s negative mount. Remove the eject worm gear motor from the Solarbotics Cassette Mechanism kit. This requires you to unscrew it from the front and rear of the Cassette frame. Drill a 1/16 hole into the white gear near the flat portion of the gear head. We will use the gear head and this hole to mount the Turbot s flagella. If you are using Hydro-X solder, switch to Rosin Core for any wire connections. Hydro-X will weaken the stranded wires and shorten the Turbot s lifespan. On the first Fred Solar Engine, solder the motor s positive connection to the 4700 capacitor s anode. Solder the motor s negative connection to the NPN s collector / 47K resistor. Use heat shrink to ensure a solid connection, and trim the remaining leads clean. Repeat on the second Fred Solar Engine, but reverse the motor connections. Solder the motor s negative connection to the 4700 capacitor s anode. Solder the motor s positive connection to the NPN s collector / 47K resistor. Cut three power wires, one black and two red. Cut the wires long as the longer connections are more convenient when building the body. We will shorten the wires during the final construction.Solder the black power wire to the first diode s anode. Solder a red power wire from the first diode s cathode to the second diode s anode. Solder a red power to the second diode s cathode. Place heat shrink tube over the power connections. Solder the diodes to the BP-3733 solar cells. The diodes are reverse biased, with the diode s anode going to the solar cells cathode. Do this for both solar cells, wiring them in series.Test the solar cell / diode combination under a light source to make certain that you is getting the voltage. You should see slightly less than double the BP-3733 s voltage (~8 9V), and the same amount of current. As you move your hand across one cell or the other, the voltage will dip slightly.Wire the red positive power wire from the solar cells into the first SE 4700 capacitor s anode. Wire the black negative power wire from the solar cells into the second SE 4700 capacitor s cathode. Run power wires from the first to the second Fred Solar Engine. This forms the Fred popper.Test the Fred Solar Engines once more under a light source. Both motors should turn.Mechanics. Cut two sections from 3mm Blue Sintra. Drill 1/8 holes for the wire ties. This forms the top and bottom body. Feed four wire ties into the holes for the Fred Solar Engine. Mix up two-part epoxy. Place some epoxy between the wire ties. Slide the 4700 uF capacitor between the holes, then tighten up the wire ties to secure the Fred Solar Engine. Note: It is important to get the Fred Solar Engine as far back as possible. This will ensure that the body protects it. If the SE hangs out past the front, then it is susceptible to shorts and being squashed. Test the Turbot once more under a light source. Both motors should turn. Clip the wires connecting the SEs and the solar cells. Mix up two part epoxy. Glue the solar cells between the wire ties that secure the 4700 uF capacitors. In the last step, you clipped the power wires running from the solar cell to the SEs. Trim these wires to fit the size of the body, resolder and secure with heat shrink and/or electrical tape.Test to make certain that the SEs are still firing and that both motors turn.Now we will build the flagella, or the Turbot's arms. Cut two sections of 16 Gage wire, 16 cm long. I used the 5V power supply wire recycled from a desktop computer. Cover the wire with heat shrink tubing, leaving one end 1.5 to 2 cm uncovered.Remove the ejector rod from the cassette mechanism. If you do not have this rod, or if you make a mistake, then a stiff paper clip will also work. Bend it so that the tip is down 2 mm on a 90-degree angle. Place this tip into the hole drilled in the worm gear motor. Where the gear wheel ends, bend the clip up away from the motor at a 90-degree angle. This is to give the flagella room to clear the motor casing. Finally, bend the rod 90-degrees down, about midway between the end of the gear and the end of the rod.Most of the mechanical stresses will be on the gear motor, the rod, and the wire. Therefore, it is important to re-enforce these areas as much as possible.Strip the wire and solder it to the rods. Ideally, the heat shrink should start where the rod ends [note: the photograph is incorrect as the heat shrink starts before the rod ends].Cover the wire and the rod with a second layer of heat shrink. This will secure the rod to the wire, making for a solid flagella. Using a piece of heat shrink with a larger diameter, cover just the portion of the flagella where the rod meets the wire.Mix up more two-part epoxy, place the flagella's rod into the hole on the gear, and glue the flagella into place. Take extreme care not to get epoxy on the gear teeth or the gear axel.The last step attach the flagella to the body. Wire tie the motors to the body using the holes provided. Bend the flagella into shape. Place two tabs from the self-sticking cushion feet pack onto each half of the body to keep the turbot from flopping onto its solar cells.

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Old 08-08-2009, 06:51 AM   #99 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisjb View Post


Kdoske!!! No!!! It is even more simple than that... I've created the following instructions that anyone here should be able to follow, and a basic circuit diagram to go along with it:
lol, too funny. You do realize you just posted the schematics to some sort of television signal transmitter. Hey, im game, I think it would be cool if the fog light could broadcast some live TV strait from the car!!!

I went ahead and did up another drawing to include the brake light. This circuit would Blink the Fog light and the Brake Light when in reverse or the toggle was switched. (Depending on how the brake light system is wired it may actually blink the brake lights in the tails as well).


Last edited by kdoske; 08-08-2009 at 06:58 AM.
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Old 08-08-2009, 07:01 AM   #100 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CBRich View Post
Looks like it would work kdoske. And it would be anywhere near the 300 or so that they are charging.
LOL, I know, its literally 99% cheaper! Well after tax and the diode its probably 95%...
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:09 PM   #101 (permalink)
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kdoske... thx for having a sense of humor about it... i found it very amusing when i posted my version after a few glasses of wine! your diagram makes sense and +rep for taking the time!
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Old 08-08-2009, 12:50 PM   #102 (permalink)
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kdoske, I added another diode to prevent the brake lights from flashing when in reverse. Hope you don't mind.



One question I have though is this: Do the brake and reverse lights always have 12V and just ground to activate? If so this would need to be changed a bit.

Last edited by CBRich; 08-08-2009 at 04:17 PM.
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Old 08-08-2009, 04:02 PM   #103 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr.Z View Post
- So in the end, what does this (non cheap) kit do??
- Any information we can read?
- What is the compatibility with Canadian models as we already have the fog ligth installed.


FYI:
I like the following options best.

1. Able to stay on with regular lights (same brightness as the rears)
2. Blinks when brakes are applied (4 times) then gets brighter like the brake lights.
3. Blinks when put in reverse.
4. Switch to disable




Where does this item tie into?

Why so expensive ?
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:08 PM   #104 (permalink)
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This honestly looks dumb.
I would prefer to find or make a rubber block to cover said hole, in the same color as my car.
That would look much better
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Old 08-08-2009, 08:25 PM   #105 (permalink)
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That post was one of the greatest contributions in the history of THE370Z.com.

In any case I'm working on a drawing right now and seeing as I'm no electrical engineer maybe you guys can give me some decent feedback on it.
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