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DID YOU KNOW? University of Hawaii professors arent allowed to date students, guess they just gotta keep it on the dl. Anyhow. some updates. Mock up your bracket to mount

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Old 04-05-2016, 08:12 PM   #31 (permalink)
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DID YOU KNOW? University of Hawaii professors arent allowed to date students, guess they just gotta keep it on the dl. Anyhow. some updates.

Mock up your bracket to mount the bottom hole of the spats.


I bought some sheet metal and made the brackets. Heres my first bracket but i decided to change it up.


Here is the revised bracket as i wanted to make another mounting point for the spat on to the bumper for more support.



Used the U clips. My hardware store didnt have U spring clips but this will do.


Bought some push pin clips or whatever its called.



Last edited by Daniel123588; 04-05-2016 at 11:56 PM.
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:18 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daniel123588 View Post
DID YOU KNOW? University of Hawaii professors arent aloud to date students, guess they just gotta keep it on the dl.
What about just one night stands? That does not count as dating, does it?
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Old 04-05-2016, 08:19 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I want to talk about the rear diffuser again. My fitment was really bad. So i took off the fog light on the bottom and what do you know, it fits flush.
Once again, the diffuser hits the light so you need to sand the inside of the diffuser where it meets the fog light and look where it needs sanding.




Use the 5 allen bolts provided to mount the bottom of the diffuser.


It now sits pretty flush so i decided to just leave it on. These fitment pictures below are without any tape at all and just the 5 bolts. I have to take it off later to paint thats why.




I guess thats about it. I hope the brackets pic help because all the previous threads on the spat installs have lost the pictures from what i could find.
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Old 04-05-2016, 09:39 PM   #34 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by cooltoy View Post
What about just one night stands? That does not count as dating, does it?
Ahh not too sure, let me ask the star advertiser newspaper haha.
"We weren't dating, we just made love!"
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:39 PM   #35 (permalink)
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Yes i know its still primer and a bit lame but im waiting to do my headlight work first along with some other parts before it goes to the paint shop.
couldnt help myself so heres a rolling shot. Courtesy of #impicassobitches
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:00 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Did some extra stuff today. So as many of you know, the oil change hole is very very tiny and needs to be enlarged. CoolToy sent me a pic which i should have cut BEFORE the bumper was on but i wanted to be sure as to where exactly to cut so had to do so today with the bumper on the car.
1. Heres the hole

2. Heres the hole enlarged using a dremel. TIP! For those that arent aware, there is a attachment that looks like a regular drill bit but its meant to cut sideways, a perfect tool for cutting something like this. Sorry no pic of the tool.

3. Sanded and cleaned up a bit.


4. MOck your cardboard template


5. So i also had the idea of a hinge to cover this (as cooltoy did as well) but man it was not worth the trouble and therefore i changed it up. Here is what it was:


6. It was way too difficult to make the metal sit nicely tucked inside so the wind doesnt catch it, i had to scrape that hinge idea, not worth it. Heres the piece of aluminum traced to size. Might be easier to use a thin metal that can cut with snips, i had to use a cutting disk.
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:06 PM   #37 (permalink)
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7. the aluminum is tucked inside facing the front of the bumper so that it doesnt catch wind . I bent it a little bit to make it sit more nicely inside the opening. Use U-Spring Clips to make mounting a breeze.






Man all these stainless steel bolts, washers, lock washers, etc add up, makes me want to steal them sometimes but id rather support my local hardware business store. Afterall wouldnt be able to get anything done without them. Thanks City Mill!

Hope this helps. Now oil changes are just two phillips bolts and tray slides out.

TIP! Perhaps its best to do this off the car.....

DID YOU KNOW! The Hawaii rail transit system currently being built is over budget by a BILLION dollars. OMFG.... fail....

Thanks for stopping by! Cheers and ahuiho!
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Old 04-23-2016, 10:47 PM   #38 (permalink)
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That's awesome. You the man.
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Old 04-24-2016, 12:49 AM   #39 (permalink)
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Subd
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:09 AM   #40 (permalink)
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Ok so I'm bored at the moment sitting on the floor waiting for my friend working on a older skyline. so I decided to update a little bit. Oh here's the skyline ooh more of a classic than a performer.

So I got the wiring started for the LED. For now I will run as drl so it turns off when the parking lights come on. This whole process can be changed super easy to run the lights on all the time when the car is on. Anyhow lets get started.
Here's the box under the hood we are tapping into.


This female harness is not being used for my model. I think it was for heater control but I'm drinking right now so I don't remember. Touring model may have this being used with a relay. These harnesses can be take. Out by pushing the plastic area on the left. Harness falls down towards the ground not up.omg doing this on the phone is a joke with photobuxket.
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Old 04-26-2016, 12:20 AM   #41 (permalink)
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Uhh so where was I. Take out the here female plugs and this is what you will have. These three pieces can be taken out super easily with a small flathead. Once you look you will now.

Uh so here's the new relay female harness they I bought. I want to fit in the two box area that's not being used. It doesn't quite fit so it needs to be sanded. The key with sanding this new female relay plug is to utilize the push clip area so it utilizes it like the stock relays harnesses when you took them out earlier. Know what I mean? I don't. Haha



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Old 04-26-2016, 12:23 AM   #42 (permalink)
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Sorry for so many posts but in using my phone and it's a joke.
On beer three. Ok let's see.
So this is how a 5 pin relay works on the pink paper. When positive and negative come together. You know what. I'm so tired of doing this. I will update later when I'm actually on's computer. Forget this. Off to the bar!!!!

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Old 04-26-2016, 05:14 PM   #43 (permalink)
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Ok back and sober now.
so when pin 86 and 85 (ground) get energized, pin 30 connects to 87. When its not energized, pin 30 stays connected to pin 87a.

Therefore the yellow wire is cut because when 86 pin gets 12v from the headlight or parking light, it will move pin 30 (connected to positive LED) to connect to pin 87 which is nothing and therefore will turn off.

There are various threads with various methods to do this but this is just another clean way in my opinion.

Here is the wires I tapped into on the harnesses on the relays. Sorry its upside down, just turn your monitor upside down.




Make sure to run a fuse from whatever power source you are tapping into, last thing you want is a fried wire. I used the mini blade fuse holder so it fits in the box.

So you should just have one wire coming out of the box which is the blue wire in this case from the relay. This blue wire will run 12v when the car is running and when the headlights or parking lights are turned on, it will stop sending 12v and therefore the LED's will turn off.
If you want them on all the time when the car is running, just take out the ground wire (pin 85) from the brown female relay harness and it will no longer energize the coil.

Hope that made sense, its a bit hard to explain at time. Once again, there is numerous ways to do this but this is my way with minimal wire running.

TIP! Always run a fuse for safety!

I will update later when I attach the LED's. Thanks for looking!

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Old 04-26-2016, 11:06 PM   #44 (permalink)
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subtle is my taste.


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Old 05-16-2016, 09:09 AM   #45 (permalink)
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Great write up with pictures.

Fyi ur comments in each post are hilarious. $8-10 for milk lmfao
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