![]() |
Anyone would have a clue to what I could test next?
|
![]() |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
![]() |
#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 43 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]()
When you measure all the wires, one is constant (12v), and the other is only constant (12v) when you hit the brakes? I don't know how the EVO-R light works, but if it does the flashing internally, then something is wrong with it.
It's 12v, so you can wire up +/- to battery terminal. Based on my assumptions the 3rd wire is "switched," so momentarily connect it to the + terminal. If it doesn't flash, then the internal flashing circuit isn't working.
__________________
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
#6 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Kansas
Posts: 3,800
Drives: 09 Z34-TT 6MT
Rep Power: 43 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
![]()
Just my simplistic assumption:
The constant 12V (ignition) feeds the LED driver or transistor (FET). The base/gate is pulled down to ground so it can stay off. The timer chip gets power from the brake wire and normally starts pulsing immediately. The output of the timer chip feeds into the base/gate of the transistor, possibly pulling it high (12V) to turn it on driving the LEDs.
__________________
![]() Last edited by DIGItonium; 07-29-2015 at 11:19 PM. |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Bookmarks |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Key Fob Issue/Tire Pressure Light | Bidness91 | Exterior & Interior | 16 | 07-10-2017 12:30 PM |
Key system warning light issue!!! | jenny | Nissan 370Z Warranty / Scheduled Maintenance / Servicing / Repairs | 6 | 01-24-2012 02:10 AM |
map/dome light issue | ZoroItaliano | Exterior & Interior | 6 | 12-15-2011 09:10 AM |
Check engine light issue | Xsad | Intake/Exhaust | 2 | 08-14-2011 01:21 AM |