If you are referring to the aluminum beam behind the bumper it will change the behaviour of the crumple zone. Same as taking the spare tire out.

I wouldn't do that...

Finally installed my Odyssey PC680 battery :).

Keeping it in the stock location for now.

http://www.doubledownmotorsports.com/370zpc680.jpg

I like it a lot!!!

WOW it's dinky! I want one. How much do they cost?

$125 :tup:

Odyssey PC680 Lightweight Battery

Another really easy weight loss tip: drain all of your windshield washer fluid then add back just a little (in case you need it). Might be worth a good 8 lbs of weight savings or so...not really sure. OR, just remove that huge washer fluid reservoir altogether!

I calculated my weight savings at around 80 lbs...and that includes new battery, no spare (keeping the subwoofer though), lighter tires, HF cats, lighter exhaust....but I am going to add an oil cooler (probably +8 lbs). Realistically, I'll also be running about 1/2 tank of gas...so I HOPE my total weight will be down around 3230 (I have touring with sport pckg).

Started preparations for the upcoming time attack this weekend and weighed a lot more stock pieces. All of these pieces were removed in approx. 10 min. and can just as easily be put back once you are done with the track!

Privacy shade thing out of the hatch area...
http://www.ddmtimeattack.com/370ztaprep2.jpg

Some of the trunk plastics...
http://www.ddmtimeattack.com/370ztaprep3.jpg

The rest of the trunk plastics/styrofoam...
http://www.ddmtimeattack.com/370ztaprep4.jpg

Weight that was bolted to the hatch...
http://www.ddmtimeattack.com/370ztaprep6.jpg

Location of said weight...
http://www.ddmtimeattack.com/370ztaprep5.jpg

Stock lug nuts = 3 lbs. Muteki open end lugs = 1 lb. The Muteki's are not recommended for the stock wheels though.
http://www.ddmtimeattack.com/370ztaprep7.jpg

I have to disagree here. Coming from an S2K where weight reduction is crucial, I think one member put it best. He also happens to be one of the top S2000 drivers in the US.

If you're building a full race car then yes. Most of us on here wont be trying 10 different sets of springs until we get the right set that offsets weight balance. The purpose of my personal build is to stay within the boundaries of most enthusiast's budget and capabilites.

:tup:

Honestly... every pound you save on a 3000lb car on the wheels is tantamount to about 1whp. Going from stock 19's to Volk CE's on my G35 made a bigger difference in speed than all the intake mods I ever did... Just food for thought...

hmm...that's rotational mass on the wheels. They are talking about sprung weight...also your 1whp/lb is not all that accurate. Taking 40 pounds off the car doesn't feel like adding 40whp. Maybe more like .25whp/1lb I would believe.

Well I mean... taking 1lb off the cars rotational mass should be equivalent to about 1whp no?

Just out of curiosity, has anyone taken out any of the extra safety requirements such as the air bags by the doors and whatnot?

I'm planning on it... will prob have it done, so I don't have to reset computers and don't want to take the chance that I deploy them... if anyone wants to see what they look like, i've got pics up here, about 1/3 of way down the page
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...b-journal.html

Did anyone weigh the stock intake compared to the Stillen long tube Gen 3?

I'm liking this thread.. the most relevant thread in the whole world..

I have an idea. In the S2000's we were able to vent the hood. By venting I mean cutting the hood itself around the ribs and putting a mesh grill. Not only would this reduce weight but also release excess engine bay heat. Here's what I mean.

S2000 Forums -> The Vented Hood Club

I actually have a guy on LI who does this professionally. I had it done on my S and it worked and looked great.

All we have to do on this car to vent is eliminate the wiper assembly and plastic cover... it opens up about a 2-3 inch gap next to the windshield and creates a lot of airflow

I really like those s2k vented hoods. I think they look great, but it rains an awful lot here in FL.

I took a look under my hood, seems like we can't do quite the style they did going on one side, but we have a decent spot in the front in the middle (biggest space available), could look cool. Who's good with photoshop?

Here are 2 pics i just took of the underside:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...N/IMG_6990.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...N/IMG_6991.jpg

Another good way to gain horse power from losing weight is to run on a treadmill. Cutting 10 pounds from your waistline is sure to help!

Fatties!

Simple venting like that S2K thread sounds prone to rain problems though. I don't want a storm pouring through the hole in my hood and soaking my pulleys or the electronics.

I agree Travis but personally I wouldn't do it since my Z will be a DD. Need those windshield wipers :icon17:

Actually, no one ever had any water problems. I had my vented hood for over a year and I live in NJ. I never saw water in my engine bay. I'm just theorizing here but I'm thinking that the water droplets evaporated as soon as they hit the mesh. It's very hot and you could actually see the heat rising from the vents. I'm going to try this when I get back in a month or so. I think the most heat would come from the exhaust manifold. Anyone else think different?

Hey Zeto,

I don't think there would be enough heat to evaporate a strong downpour, even when you see heating rising from those vents.

That being said, I believe a lot of water (perhaps "a lot" is a relative term) makes its way into the engine bay in any car, during rainy days, be it through the air intakes (and around the radiator), or from the bottom. This is a guess, though, as I have never opened my hood after getting home from driving through a storm to check.

I have :)

Yes, some water gets into a stock Z engine bay in rain regardless, but it's small amounts that manage to splash their way in past the seams near the wheel wells, the top edge of the hood, etc. The biggest holes in that regard are near the exhaust manifolds, but those will evap just about anything. Even in heavy rain, so little makes it in that it's inconsequential, esp given heat to evap it. You end up with some little splash/drop marks on the outer walls of the bay but that's about it.

But an open vent right over the engine area scares me a bit. In the storm we had last week, it would be like opening your hood and dumping 5 gallon buckets of water on your engine bay repeatedly. No way that's gonna evap off.

What would be the worst case scenario? IMO, the benefits out weigh the risks.

Engine bays have no real problem with water (as long as it doesn't snorkel in the intakes, obviously). When driving, air will be exiting through the vent anyway.

I'd be into venting, but wouldn't do it for the weight; I just don't see how you could lose much weight in aluminum. I'd think you'd be much better off with a good carbon hood, which they'll no doubt have out shortly.

I don't think there will be a big difference between aluminum hood and a carbon hood. It can't be more than a couple of pounds or so.

Most "carbon" hoods aren't really carbon. They are fiberglass with a carbon overlay. A real dry carbon hood will shave off a few pounds, but will retail for thousands of dollars. Your typical fiberglass/carbon hoods will weigh the same as stock most likely. Thats the way they were on the 350Z at least. I can't imagine it would be any different on the 370Z.

Ohhhh I didn't know that. I thought it was all carbon fiber. Yea I can imagine being really expensive if it was real dry carbon hood.

Worst case scenario would be me sitting stuck in traffic for several minutes at a stoplight, with sheets of heavy rain pouring down onto the car and the hood vent. Most of the electronics look pretty well insulated, so I suspect the only immediate fallout would be belt slippage, but it just doesn't sit well with me still. I wouldn't open my hood and dump a bucket of water on my running engine either, even though that too probably wouldn't really hurt anything.

The only thing I;d be afraid of is getting those MAF sensors soaked. A short there could be really really bad.

As far as the carbon vs stock hood thing... I kinda disagree, i think it depends entirely on the car. For example, the hood on the STI is super light and carbon ones don't do anything. However, the hood on a Supra, or a Subaru 2.5 RS are very very heavy. And I mean heavy. So a lighter carbon hood would do the trick. Frankly, I like Seibon's stuff...good compromise between lightness and price. The hood on the Z could benefit...I think we could lose a few pounds off the front end there....

Might want to add a lightweight flywheel into the mix:

http://www.the370z.com/outperformanc...html#post67009

Overall weight reduction isn't the reason for going to a light flywheel, but at 20 lbs. savings, it's not a bad side effect...

Is this the lightest flywheel out in the market?

How much weight will the antivirus software save me?

10 to 15 megabytes.

OT, but I wouldn't think you'd want to go any lighter.