They were short piped headers. Just replaced the manifold.

thanks for the quick reply. I checked this thread for weight of the stock header and couldn't find it. I only found that the Fast Intentions long tube headers, as a pair, are 17 pounds lighter than the stock headers and cats that they replace.

What was the weight of the stock headers?

No, short tubes

Extra pound or so you can shed without really altering the look of your car (for those of us who aren't track monsters like Spohn, Mike, or wstar, lol)
http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ing-issue.html

For all the Nismo guys... Removing the front and rear body dampers saves 8.4lbs. I can't hear/feel any noises/vibrations or anything after I removed them.

Our standered cars don't have them so I see no reason why there absolutly need. I feel if you have most suspension upgrades (coilover/springs, sways) they more than make up for the body dampners.

I really think now I'm going to remove the crash beam up front.

i will have to look into it, but some of the past models of the Z have had fiberglass crash beams in non-US versions. The 300zx has a 100% fiberglass Crash beam on the JDM models, but has a heavier, aluminum version in the US that meets the 5 mph DOT crash test requirements.

I will check tomorrow to see if there are any differences.

Update:Nevermind. The JDM bars are indeed different. But they actually appear to be heavier duty than the US models. They have some extra crash beam protruding off of it.

I took out the interior plastics and yesterday minus the center console, the dash, and the roof liner. I was able to shed 66lbs, thats including the carpet and radio as well. Add the spare tire (35lbs), passenger seat (39lbs) and that puts you at 140lbs. Which is awesome because all that stuff can be put back in within a couple hours:tup:. I'm sure the roof liner(with airbags), center console and parts of the dash can get you another 30lbs or so.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f2...x/plastics.jpg

Welcome to the club!:rofl2:

Getting it done. ^^

MJB, did you get my pics?

Sure did :tup: Thanks alot, they were very useful.

At one point I took out the interior roof stuff as an experiment temporarily. The headliner, the super-duper-garage-door-opener-mirror and its wiring, the upper airbags, etc. Drove it around like that for a week or so. It's not a ton of raw weight, and it could've all been in my head, but I swear I could feel the difference in the handling (and that was after most of the rear interior was stripped out like MJB's talking about). My theory is that being so high up on the car, the weight up there counts for more than you'd think. Ended up putting it all back for now because the car's still on the street :)

That's good info. THanks. Was it hard to remove the liner?

It's pretty easy to remove all the inner roof stuff. Having the seats out helps a lot though :)

In addition to weight for us tall guys having headliner out gives us much needed helmet clearance.

The problem I find with lightweight wheels is that they just don't look as good as full size ones. Low profile tyres weigh less but are quite uncomfortable on the road

Do we really need TWO horns ?;)


From the shop manual:

Horn (HIGH)
1. Remove the fender protector LH (front). Refer to EXT-23, "FENDER PROTECTOR : Exploded View".
2. Disconnect the horn (HIGH) connector.
3. Remove the horn mounting bolt, and remove the horn (HIGH) from the vehicle

What till you guys see what I'm doing this weekend. No one has cut weight here.

Do tell...:excited:

you went on a diet? :stirthepot: :bowrofl::bowrofl::bowrofl:

That would be the day.

Just got the eibach swaybar kit, i know it's not a net weight reduction, but figured I'd post the weights in case anyone wants to compare to other aftermarket sways

Eibach Front Sway: 4.52 kg
Eibach Rear Sway: 3.80 kg

Stock Front Sway: 3.51 kg
Stock Rear Sway: 1.97 kg

Stock Front endlink: 0.38 kg ea
Stock Rear endlink: 0.20 kg ea

SPL Front endlink: 0.54 kg ea
SPL Rear endlink: 0.39 kg ea

Oh, here's some more weights i measured a while ago and forgot to post:

Did an upgrade from base brakes to sport package with Racing Brake 2pc rotors and pads (ET800).

Stock:
F Rotor: 9.75 kg ea
R Rotor: 5.83 kg ea
F caliper+2pads: 7.55 kg ea
R caliper+2pads: 3.22 kg ea
stock Rear rotor shield removed: .40 kg ea
Total: 53.5 kg

Upgraded:
F RacingBrake Rotor: 10.15 kg ea
R RacingBrake Rotor: 6.95 kg ea
F Sport Caliper+2pads: 5.91 kg ea
R Sport Caliper+2pads: 3.06 kg ea
Total: 52.14 kg

Total weight difference 1.36 kg less than base!

I'm amazed the overall weight still ended up less. Those base calipers are boat anchors compared to the lightweight sport ones that are so much larger.

There were some other fittings and hard lines and things that i didn't factor in, but I think they were roughly the same weight between base and sport.

By the way RJM clutch pedal assemblies weigh 303g less than stock. :icon14:

swift springs

front: 7.4lbs each
rear: 7.6lbs each

What do the stock springs weigh?

not sure yet, car is in the shop getting minor damage fixed form being rear ended, so it will be a few weeks before i can get the swifts on. i will weigh them once i have them off though

anyone know what the factory intake piping with filter housings and filters weigh?

bump

Also the engine bay has so much over engineering it's crazy...

the block has so many brackets bolted to it to hold hoses and what not...

I haven't weight all my junk but it's around 8lbs of metal...

keep pushing folks...

I'm not sure how accurate my scale is but it read.

OEM springs Font: 4.2lbs each
OEM springs Rear: 4.7lbs each

Yup. This is a ripe area. Too many little things to bother listing, but it's a fair amount of junk weight in just the right place to be removed. All kinds of wiring harness brackets and tiny things to go after. You just have to inventory the 3-D volume of that bay inch by inch as you go through it on major work, and stuff to cut becomes obvious.

Front bumper styrofoam 1.5 pounds
Wiper fluid bottle empty 1.5 pounds

You keep saying you're not gonna heavily mod this car... I'm starting not to believe you ;) Every little weight reduction is sucking you in further...

I hated the location of the wiper fluid bottle because it was right in the way of the brake ducts and oil cooler lines. I was able to remove about a foot of ducting by getting rid of the bottle. I will probably order the GTM wiper fluid bottle when I order their new oil pan.

I forgot to put back on the styrofoam when I put my bumper back on. I noticed that it isn't really needed though and it might get some extra air to the Stillen intakes so I might keep it off.

I would keep the styrofoam if you plan on going pass 80+ often because without it the bumper will sag/dimple and the hood might catch unwanted air...

I don't think you can really get air under the hood that way. The upper lip of the bumper cover is nailed down with those plastic push-pins all along the top edge, and the hood has its rubber weather seal there as well. I could maybe see it deflecting enough to affect aero a little, but even then I donno. The bumper cover's pretty stout in that area.

I'm sure your right, havent played with a z34. On a z33 it's not that refine...

Way to many threads here but I found this and thought I'd share even though its probable been brought up before...


"Lightweight battery, odyssey, braille, etc. Information:


I have spent close to 8 hours researching batteries, and wanted to share much of what I found, which is not always clear on previous threads. I am sure some will disagree with some of my statements, I am not saying any of this is 100% fact but I have read A TON on this subject before coming to these conclusions. These are random:

1) You can get away with a very lightweight low power battery in the NSX if you don't have a lot of aftermarket stuff, drive your car frequently, and don't live in a severly cold climate. You can save around 15-20 pounds of weight instantly by changing the battery.

2) The battery world is a big scam. There are a handful of battery manufacturers, everyone buys from them, then re-badges and sells for whatever they want. The specs are manipulated wildly at times, there is no real standard. Many companies have multiple websites and multiple names for the same battery (and multiple prices).

3) The two best known brands: Braille and Odyssey... at this point, I really feel braille is severely overpriced. They are made by Deka, rebranded and sold for A LOT MORE. All manufacturers say that their "internals" are different, but I have seen some internals and they look identical to me. Believe what you want. Deka also makes "Big Crank". Both Big Crank and Deka can be had for a lot less than the matching Brailles. The Dekas are sold under many other names as well. Braille lists PULSE CCA's on their website... this is a ******** term. You have to read their CCA's.

4) Odyssey is made by Enersys. Enersys sells the same battery under the "hawker energy Genesis" brand for less money. A lot of performance shops sell DynaBat which is purchased from Hawker and sold for more money. These are all enersys batteries.

5) Odyssey terminology... the batteries can be bought in various iterations. For example PC680, PC680MJ, PC680MJT. Same battery. MJ stands for Metal Jacket. T refers to the top post. You can adapt a standard 680 by buying an SAE post. The metal jacket is to protect the battery, not to protect the environment the battery is in. One of the main culprits in killing battery performance (like radiator performance) is heat. The MJ units keep more heat away from the internals. In a mid-engine car, this is not so much an issue. Just as the NSX radiator stays cool, so does the battery. I don't feel the MJ is necessary, but some may disagree and can chime in.

6) The performance of these batteries can be had for as little as $25 using UPS batteries. I saw many accounts of various racing forums of people using these, but they do not take vibration as well. Here is a battery that will crank over your NSX just fine at $25:

http://www.batterymart.com/p-12v-20a...battery-3.html

I'm not recommending this, but just showing what a $300 battery has internaly is not all that different. Battery basics are the same, there is a lot of marketing involved. I am thinking its the same with Duracell and Energizer. I don't think there is magic inside.

7) Big Crank (Deka) has some models listed standard, and "L". EXT15, or 15L. The "L" refers to a reversal of the polarity. Look at the pictures and select the correct one.

8) Another couple of options are Yuasa and Gruber Power, these will work with the right adaptor post and are very reasonably priced:

Gruber Power

A pretty informative article here, at least look at the pics, it is funny the resemblence:

Stealth 316 - Dyna-Batt Battery

I just wanted to provide info of what I have found. Right now I am leaning toward getting a Big Crank EXT15L to save some weight.

I looked into making your own batteries (especially with lithium cells). I was not able to come up with anything really cost effective, but can tell you for sure that $1995 for a Braille is making the CEO a lot of money"