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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 I'm pretty sure his total capacity was 10-12 quarts actually The D/S tank would have been huge - from memory it was under the hatch right

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Old 03-05-2015, 11:46 PM   #196 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DEpointfive0 View Post
I'm pretty sure his total capacity was 10-12 quarts actually
The D/S tank would have been huge - from memory it was under the hatch right at the back of the car on the passenger side - that the best part of 10-11 litres plus whatever sat in the lines ...

Petersen in that size at 9" in diameter and 16" tall so fitting on without boring a hole in the hatch floor would be a challenge.
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Old 03-05-2015, 11:55 PM   #197 (permalink)
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The D/S tank would have been huge - from memory it was under the hatch right at the back of the car on the passenger side - that the best part of 10-11 litres plus whatever sat in the lines ...

Petersen in that size at 9" in diameter and 16" tall so fitting on without boring a hole in the hatch floor would be a challenge.
I don't understand what you're saying...

His tank was huge. 10-11 liters is 11-12 quarts and his likes were like... 1"+ ID AND his oil filter probable held a quart by itself, lol
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Old 03-06-2015, 01:31 AM   #198 (permalink)
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Yep when running with an oil level half way up the tank it it was 12.5 quarts. I was using a 25row cooler, a wix 57575r filter on an earls plate, with -16 lines from pump to tank. The tank was mounted on a slight angle but it was huge it went all the way through the carpet from hatch to trunk floor.
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Old 03-06-2015, 02:52 AM   #199 (permalink)
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I don't understand what you're saying...

His tank was huge. 10-11 liters is 11-12 quarts and his likes were like... 1"+ ID AND his oil filter probable held a quart by itself, lol
How to fit the tank under a closed hatch without boring a hole in the floor is my point ... answer is mount it on an angle.

My race car (for instance) has a 6" diameter, 24" tall dry-sump tank and that lives in the passenger foot well with a 6" hole cut in the scuttle above where your feet sit, so I can access the filler neck from where the battery used to be. Finding space to fit a dry-sump tank where the oil does not siphon into the sump and fill the bottom of the engine so that the crank when you start the engine does not cause the oil to foam straight away is a non-trivial engineering issue.

You really want the oil-level in the dry-sump tank not to be above the crank (because if the crank is submerged in oil when you start the engine, all it does is turn the oil inside the engine into foam and that can be a PITA).

Having the oil level in the dry-sump tank as high as it looks like it is will not be ideal unless measures are taken to avoid all that oil finishing up inside the block (even up to the the bottom of the bores !!) via gravity thru the pressure stage pump.

This is even more important with the Dailey system because the scavenge and pressure pumps are mounted so low in the engine bay.

Hopefully I am making myself clear .. if not, I'll have another glass of red and try again (sun is over the yard-arm in our neck of the woods and I am making a serious impression on a very nice Coonawarra cabernet).

RB
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Old 03-06-2015, 11:13 PM   #200 (permalink)
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Complicated
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Old 03-13-2015, 10:00 PM   #201 (permalink)
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Sure is but the reason to mount the tank low isn'tso much the frothing of oil, that WILL happen with a drysump even while running do tothe evacutaion of blow-by gas as well as oil in the scavenge stages(you count on tank design to takecar of this) but if the tank is mounted above thecrank level and you get oilleak back as the pump wears, you may endup in extreme cases with oil seeping past main seals or above piston rings and into cylinders (only on high capacity systems with a really high mounted tank. The biggest worry though is running the tank low at startup since all the oil is in the motor before the pump can pump it back into the tank in the firstfew seconds. My drysump could cy le all of the oil in the car in under 15seconds. It was a 30gpm system lol.
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Old 03-25-2015, 11:27 AM   #202 (permalink)
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yep stock rods, pistons, crank, bearings, timing gear, valves, springs, lifters, vvel, ports(nothing is ported). the only internal changes were the cams and removing the oil pump.

There was some slow secret sauce poured into the trans to help with the higher rpm shifts tho, eat that TSM lol
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Based on my research (JWT, Unitech, the NISMO engine-builder with Kelly Racing), with replacement rod bolts both the VQ35HR and VQ37VHR are both safe to 8800rpm (although the jury is still out on running the VVEL that hard for sustained periods - there is no real empirical detail).

With OEM rod-bolts, I'd be reluctant to exceed 8000rpm, but that is just me.

Remember, NASCAR engines run 9500rpm and more for hours and they are all >3-inch stroke.



great thread btw! I was hoping to find something like this. Sry you had to sell.

Did you ever take it to 9k? I saw you mentioned it, I have yet to watch all the videos (thank you for videos!)

and as it was asked before, the stock internals are able to support the higher then 7.5 redline easily. My goal is really just 8k with NA reliably and am starting to look into external oil pumps, as is sounds like the Nismo pump is not enough. Any advice is defiantly appreciated.

All of my cars have been NA engine builds ( 1999 civic hb & 1999 Miata ), I am collecting data for this platform as this v6 thing is new to me.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:10 AM   #203 (permalink)
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Another question. My buddy has the newer Z-06 corvette's with a dry sump. Is it necessary for the tank to be mounted in the rear? I know the Z's have limited space in the engine bay.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:13 AM   #204 (permalink)
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Elmo you can locate it where ever you want however I know matt's tank was stupid large and contained somewhere near 12 quarts of oil if I remember correctly... depending on the amount of oil you run will determine where you can locate the oil reservoir... However, your trunk is going to be your best bet...
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:15 AM   #205 (permalink)
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great thread btw! I was hoping to find something like this. Sry you had to sell.

Did you ever take it to 9k? I saw you mentioned it, I have yet to watch all the videos (thank you for videos!)

and as it was asked before, the stock internals are able to support the higher then 7.5 redline easily. My goal is really just 8k with NA reliably and am starting to look into external oil pumps, as is sounds like the Nismo pump is not enough. Any advice is defiantly appreciated.

All of my cars have been NA engine builds ( 1999 civic hb & 1999 Miata ), I am collecting data for this platform as this v6 thing is new to me.
He ran it that high when I was in the car... it was stupid fast... lol the gears lasted forever! 53mph in first gear!!!
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:16 AM   #206 (permalink)
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Another question. My buddy has the newer Z-06 corvette's with a dry sump. Is it necessary for the tank to be mounted in the rear? I know the Z's have limited space in the engine bay.
The same engine is in the Z28 and the dry sump in it is in the front. So no it is not necessary.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:43 AM   #207 (permalink)
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But those V-8's have more engine bay space. What could you relocate to fit the tank.Also doesn't the tank have to be positioned a certain way?
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:44 AM   #208 (permalink)
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I'm leaning towards going this route in my build eventually.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:48 AM   #209 (permalink)
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We dont have the space in the fender so it wont be able to go there... the only logical space is in the trunk/hatch with your dip stick/service port facing up...
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:50 AM   #210 (permalink)
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Dry Sump Tanks at Aviaid


pick your poison...
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