FIXED: Rear axle click clunk noise

Tadpole · 10-11-2014, 05:04 PM

I purchased a used set from a bone yard when I had my 350z. No clicking noises afterward.
I still have my old ones if anyone might want them.

LennyZCSD · 10-13-2014, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Hey guys,
As some of you will know, i've been battling these clicking axles for a while. I have tried:
- Lazy fix - basically removing the big nut, pushing the axle in as far as possible and injecting a crapload of wheel bearing grease. Then torquing up the nut to spec. Didn't last long at all.

NB: There are 2 torque specs depending on your year model/the way the big nut is secured.

- Official Nissan fix using Molykote M77 grease. Involves removing both axles, cleaning and applying this special grease and replacing all nuts, bolts, cotter pins, caps. This solution didn't last long - i had my hopes up but i also had my doubts that this super-grease could cushion the metallic click to the point where Nissan engineers declared it as eliminated. For those who want to try it but can't find the grease, you can buy it in a tube from your Honda motorcycle dealer. Google "Honda M77 assembly paste".

- Re-torquing the nut an extra 10Nm each time the noise reappeared. I couldn't go on forever retorquing the nut. With the success i was having, i'd be up to 300Nm by now.

*drum roll*
This is the solution that has eliminated the noise for me. The noise used to come back every 4000km, on alternate sides. This solution has worked for the past 9000km (almost 5 months). I am driving the car harder now that i have some mods too. No, it doesn't involve Loctite and it doesn't cost a fortune either.

Here's what you need if you want to have a go:

- Kawasaki axle nut (yes, seriously). Part number 92210-0280. They're about $15 each from your local Kawasaki dealer. The nut is almost identical in dimensions to the OEM flange type nut - you use the same socket too. Kawasaki specifies similar torque specs to what Nissan specifies so there's no doubt the nut can handle it. It's made in Japan so it must be good, right? :P

This particular nut is castellated, so it combines the OEM big nut plus the pathetic OEM 'adjusting cap' (as fitted to 2011 models and other year models) into one nut. Unlike the weak tin steel prongs of the adjusting cap, the 6 slots in the Kawasaki nut won't get crushed over time from the constant banging of the cotter pin when you accelerate/coast. The slots are also quite snug when you use an OEM cotter pin so again, there's almost no possibility of movement.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo1-1.jpg
http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo2-1.jpg

- 2 OEM spring washers. One for each side. You'll need the washers to make up the gap because the Kawasaki nut, being just as tall as the OEM nut, will not reach the cotter pin hole in the end of the axle. In the OEM setup, the 'adjusting cap' would sit over the nut and its prongs would reach the cotter pin hole.

- New OEM cotter pins. Don't re-use the old ones. You dont want to be forever mucking around with this.

- Torque the nut up to the OEM spec for a 370z with adjusting cap. You'll notice that the castellated slots don't line up with the cotter pin hole in the axle. This is fine. Use your breaker bar and turn the nut until the next available slot lines up with the hole.

How you torque the nut is up to you. Some prefer to mount the wheel and lower the car til the wheel touches the ground. I just put a jack stand underneath the rotor hat and lowered the car til some weight was resting on the jack stand.

- Fit NEW cotter pin and secure it properly. You might need a small hammer to push it thru.

http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/a...r/photo3-1.jpg

- Reinstall wheel and enjoy

I hope you enjoy the same success as i did. You don't have to use a Kawasaki nut but any castellated nut of the same thread and diameter will be fine. Don't use an aluminium or soft metal nut.

Good luck!

LennyZCSD · 10-13-2014, 09:12 AM

The issue is now a TSB,,, bring your Z to the dealership... get it fixed for free!!!

zefaulter · 10-13-2014, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LennyZCSD

The issue is now a TSB,,, bring your Z to the dealership... get it fixed for free!!!

Link?

DEpointfive0 · 10-13-2014, 09:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LennyZCSD

The issue is now a TSB,,, bring your Z to the dealership... get it fixed for free!!!

Yeahhhh... I didn't understand there being a DIY, I just got my car back. Thank god. Axle click sounds so ghetto

juld0zer · 10-13-2014, 09:52 AM

Yep, there is a TSB and the 370z is not the only Nissan affected. Any Nissan with CV joint axles has a chance of clicking.

This tutorial is for those who have been unsatisfied with the dealer's attempt st fixing the click

240se · 10-20-2014, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by juld0zer

Yep, there is a TSB and the 370z is not the only Nissan affected. Any Nissan with CV joint axles has a chance of clicking.

Has anyone been able to get a copy of the TSB or the TSB number other than the one that just mentions the 350Z?

JARblue · 10-13-2014, 12:16 PM

My dealer said the TSB is only valid within 3yr/36K miles. They wanted over $350 for the work specified in the TSB (basically regreasing the axles - no real fix).

bvl · 10-13-2014, 08:39 PM

Dealer is wrong. 5/60 drive train covers it. Btdt this summer at 39k on my 2010.

- b

JARblue · 10-13-2014, 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bvl

Dealer is wrong. 5/60 drive train covers it. Btdt this summer at 39k on my 2010.

- b

Its like talking to a brick wall. Everything seems to be "good will" coverage only. I don't qualify until they take enough of my money.

bvl · 10-14-2014, 04:48 AM

The one thing I have not been able to get my hands on is the actual TSB: ask them for a copy of it. I suppose there are other dealers near by in beautiful Austin?

I'd like to hear a service manager (not the clerks: the big guy) explain how a 5/60 powertrain warranty does not include an axle.

350 is also very high: should be no more then 2hr labor, and honestly 1hr for a good tech.

I hear you on brick walls: dealers are not obligated to do anything for people but are motivated by money so should want to get your business even if its at a lower book rate for a warranty repair.

- b

JARblue · 10-14-2014, 08:19 AM

There are three dealers in Austin. I talked to all three. Same basic story - we don't have to cover it but we will under "good will" if you spend a lot of money with us. I don't, so they won't.

The service guys are idiots for the most part. I can talk circles around them when it comes to discussing these these type of things because I've done all my homework before I have the conversation. First, the axle isn't being replaced - they claim that regreasing is a maintenance item (no answer given when I asked why it's not listed as a maintenance item in the MA section of the FSM). Second, the powertrain warranty doesn't include a lot of things. You'd think it would include the rear differential bushing, but no. According to Nissan, the bushing is part of a $900 cross member piece and costs $2500 for parts and labor to replace - I paid someone <$300 to replace just the bushing with an aftermarket polyurethane bushing. Fvck Nissan, seriously.

The guy that did my bushing quoted me $120 to regrease the axles. Less than half what Nissan wanted, and they should be doing it for free

juld0zer · 10-14-2014, 05:00 PM

not to sound like an ***, but the TSB is easy to find on the net. google for it and you'll find it pretty quickly because it applies to any Nissan with CV shafts. i'm at work at the moment otherwise i'd upload the document for all to see, but trust me it's out there.

the general idea is you need to remove both axles and slather some M77 grease NOT on the splines but the flat face that meets the back of the hub. the instructions stipulate a few grams of grease per axle.

clean the surfaces first. replace the spring washers, cotter pins, big nuts, adjuster caps if fitted, and the bolts that go into the diff side.

then torque nut to spec.

of course it's a bit more involved because to get th axles out, the rear section of exhaust, wheels etc needs to come off.

let me know if you still want the doc uploaded

JARblue · 10-14-2014, 07:42 PM

Well, I've been looking for one that applies to the 370Z. I found one that applies to 350Z (TSB 04-065 - Suspension Clicking Noise From Rear Axle). I found another one that applies to Frontiers. I did not find one that applies to all Nissan vehicles with CV shafts.

juld0zer · 10-14-2014, 09:19 PM

you probably wont find one specific to the 370z or specifically stating for any Nissan with CV shafts. what i meant to imply was the problem is widespread and unless the Nissan has a solid axle then the vehicle is probably going to have clicky axles at some point in its life. Everything from Altimas to the R35.

i forgot to mention that the axles have to be rotated 180* from their original position when they are reinstalled

10-11-2014, 05:04 PM	#1 (permalink)
Tadpole A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Sep 2013 Location: Lockhart, TX Posts: 1,082 Drives: 13 Nissan 370Z A7 Rep Power: 18	I purchased a used set from a bone yard when I had my 350z. No clicking noises afterward. I still have my old ones if anyone might want them. __________________ Takeda TR3009P Short Ram Intakes, Custom Dual Exhaust, X-Piped with 18" Resonators & TopSpeed Axle Backs. EVO-R Led Third Foglight,

10-13-2014, 09:12 AM	#3 (permalink)
LennyZCSD Base Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: San Diego Posts: 114 Drives: 10 370zST 6spd white Rep Power: 16	The issue is now a TSB,,, bring your Z to the dealership... get it fixed for free!!! vman12 likes this.

10-13-2014, 12:16 PM	#8 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	My dealer said the TSB is only valid within 3yr/36K miles. They wanted over $350 for the work specified in the TSB (basically regreasing the axles - no real fix). Wonka2581, zefaulter and vman12 like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

10-13-2014, 08:39 PM	#9 (permalink)
bvl Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: PA Posts: 362 Drives: MB Roadster (sold) Rep Power: 14	Dealer is wrong. 5/60 drive train covers it. Btdt this summer at 39k on my 2010. - b vman12 likes this.

10-14-2014, 08:19 AM	#12 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	There are three dealers in Austin. I talked to all three. Same basic story - we don't have to cover it but we will under "good will" if you spend a lot of money with us. I don't, so they won't. The service guys are idiots for the most part. I can talk circles around them when it comes to discussing these these type of things because I've done all my homework before I have the conversation. First, the axle isn't being replaced - they claim that regreasing is a maintenance item (no answer given when I asked why it's not listed as a maintenance item in the MA section of the FSM). Second, the powertrain warranty doesn't include a lot of things. You'd think it would include the rear differential bushing, but no. According to Nissan, the bushing is part of a $900 cross member piece and costs $2500 for parts and labor to replace - I paid someone <$300 to replace just the bushing with an aftermarket polyurethane bushing. Fvck Nissan, seriously. The guy that did my bushing quoted me $120 to regrease the axles. Less than half what Nissan wanted, and they should be doing it for free Initial Z and zefaulter like this. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

10-13-2014, 09:52 AM	#6 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	Yep, there is a TSB and the 370z is not the only Nissan affected. Any Nissan with CV joint axles has a chance of clicking. This tutorial is for those who have been unsatisfied with the dealer's attempt st fixing the click

10-14-2014, 04:48 AM	#11 (permalink)
bvl Enthusiast Member Join Date: May 2011 Location: PA Posts: 362 Drives: MB Roadster (sold) Rep Power: 14	The one thing I have not been able to get my hands on is the actual TSB: ask them for a copy of it. I suppose there are other dealers near by in beautiful Austin? I'd like to hear a service manager (not the clerks: the big guy) explain how a 5/60 powertrain warranty does not include an axle. 350 is also very high: should be no more then 2hr labor, and honestly 1hr for a good tech. I hear you on brick walls: dealers are not obligated to do anything for people but are motivated by money so should want to get your business even if its at a lower book rate for a warranty repair. - b

10-14-2014, 05:00 PM	#13 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	not to sound like an ***, but the TSB is easy to find on the net. google for it and you'll find it pretty quickly because it applies to any Nissan with CV shafts. i'm at work at the moment otherwise i'd upload the document for all to see, but trust me it's out there. the general idea is you need to remove both axles and slather some M77 grease NOT on the splines but the flat face that meets the back of the hub. the instructions stipulate a few grams of grease per axle. clean the surfaces first. replace the spring washers, cotter pins, big nuts, adjuster caps if fitted, and the bolts that go into the diff side. then torque nut to spec. of course it's a bit more involved because to get th axles out, the rear section of exhaust, wheels etc needs to come off. let me know if you still want the doc uploaded

10-14-2014, 07:42 PM	#14 (permalink)
JARblue A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2011 Location: Austin, TX Age: 44 Posts: 36,450 Drives: 11 Z34, 98 E36 M3 Rep Power: 2684441	Well, I've been looking for one that applies to the 370Z. I found one that applies to 350Z (TSB 04-065 - Suspension Clicking Noise From Rear Axle). I found another one that applies to Frontiers. I did not find one that applies to all Nissan vehicles with CV shafts. __________________ 2011 370Z 6MT Sport Gun Metallic \| ARC \| CJM \| Ecutek \| FI \| Fujimura \| R2C \| SPL \| Stillen \| TWM \| Z1 \| ZSpeed \|

10-14-2014, 09:19 PM	#15 (permalink)
juld0zer Enthusiast Member Join Date: Nov 2012 Location: Sydney Posts: 428 Drives: 11 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 139	you probably wont find one specific to the 370z or specifically stating for any Nissan with CV shafts. what i meant to imply was the problem is widespread and unless the Nissan has a solid axle then the vehicle is probably going to have clicky axles at some point in its life. Everything from Altimas to the R35. i forgot to mention that the axles have to be rotated 180* from their original position when they are reinstalled

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